DEFINITION OF TECHWEAR (OR URBAN TECHWEAR)
Techwear refers to a category of clothing that includes special fabrics with advanced technologies, construction techniques that go beyond the traditional, as well as cuts allowing maximum mobility.
These range from trenchcoats made of breathable and waterproof materials, to waterproof sneakers, including seamless t-shirts.
We also sometimes talk about urban techwear when we talk about clothes designed for the city, but filled with technicality.
AT THE ORIGIN, TECHNICAL CLOTHING
It is possible to have a total techwear look but, and we will see, most consumers in this segment only include one or two pieces in their outfits.
The origin of techwear, as we know and define it today, comes from technical mountaineering clothing at the beginning of the 70's, with the appearance of the first Gore-Tex® jackets.
Originally, techwear was limited to this type of piece.
Then, over the years, the range has expanded, both in the technical and technological field and in the models offered. Before that, the most common technique for making a piece waterproof was “waxing” fabrics (applying a type of coating to the fiber).
Nowadays, we are all used to walking or running in sneakers with increasingly efficient cushioning; athletes like to use breathable tees; powder lovers wear light, warm and breathable jackets, etc.
However, techwear is not limited to a "technical context" only: we will see that for everyday use, there has recently also been a very interesting, varied and creative offer.
© Excerpt from the Undercover lookbook
Excerpt from the Undercover lookbook (a brand that we will return to below). The pieces remain very suitable for everyday wear, even if they are quite sharp!
THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF TECHWEAR CLOTHING
TECHWEAR JACKETS
It is one of the most widely supplied product ranges , commonly divided into two categories: “hardshell” and “softshell”. The first corresponds to waterproof pieces, the second to lighter and more flexible jackets.
Techwear jackets in the Hardshell category
It is made up of waterproof, water-repellent and windproof pieces (Windstopper®) , and can therefore include jackets, parkas, trenchcoats, etc.
The pieces are generally equipped with breathable materials (depending on the integrated technology), as well as a mid layer in certain cases.
This can be detachable and will occasionally become a mini “down jacket”. In this context, this type of coat is referred to as "3x1".
You have the full version, the one without the blue layer, and finally the possibility of wearing the layer alone. Hence the “3x1” 🙂
The technologies on offer range from Gore-Tex® to much more experimental things, with jackets often serving as a field of study and research. Moreover, some Japanese brands do not hesitate to mix classic cuts and pieces with technical fabrics, which does not always give conclusive results...
Some sports brands have labels offering urban designs with fabrics, treatments and technologies tested in extreme conditions, adapted for “fashion” products, such as The North Face 's Purple Label line developed in collaboration with Nanamica.
Look from The North Face's Purple line. Who would have guessed it was techwear?
The jackets can have a sporty profile as found at Columbia; classic like on Outlier 's blazers; military with Arc'Teryx LEAF, "minimal-urban" with Acronym , or even come from the world of Haute-Couture with certain Raf Simons pieces.
Given the wide range of technical fabrics used, the jackets can be particularly rigid, which gives a rather... peculiar appearance when first worn. Or on the contrary, look like softshells like the Jammu jacket from The North Face .
The famous "Jammu Jacket", which is a techwear classic.
Techwear jackets in the Softshell category
The “softshell” is less rigid than the “hardshell”, but still resistant to bad weather, thanks to the various treatments or materials used. Less waterproof than the “hardshell”, it is however more comfortable.
It allows greater freedom of movement, its lightness often being prized because it constitutes a very good alternative to the classic jacket, which is more bulky and heavier. Basically, it's an improved and technical version of the hoodie.
This segment is developing very well at the moment, both in the sports and urban areas. These are pieces appreciated by cyclists, joggers, and practitioners of disciplines that require both ease of movement and protection against the cold, as well as good breathability.
In addition, the lighter pieces can be folded and stored, like our old K-Ways that we all hated when we were younger.
Softshell jackets are pieces that can be very easily integrated into streetwear and dark looks.
TECHWEAR MIDDLE LAYERS ( MID LAYERS )
These can be hoodies, sweatshirts, technical shirts, sweaters, etc., but also a layer integrated into a jacket or jacket. In this case, the mid-layer can include technologies similar to the part with which it is associated.
It’s a very interesting all-purpose sector because the products offered are sometimes original. Japanese designers (still them) are doing some pretty cool things, like shirts incorporating CoolMax®, or Windstopper® materials, and water-repellent hoodies, among others.
One of the advantages of CoolMax® is that it allows sweat to escape, so this can be useful for models worn in summer, for example (we won't dwell on the styling of the photo).
FIRST LAYERS ( BASE LAYERS )
These are underwear, socks and stockings. They mainly integrate breathable, anti-irritation or thermal technologies.
Often neglected, this segment is nevertheless very important: what is the point of having an outfit made entirely of breathable materials if your t-shirt is not?
With some models, you can even pretend to be Batman.
Furthermore, even in a classic outfit, certain elements like technical hiking socks can change the life of your feet. This will help you avoid friction and chafing in your classic boots, and blisters/irritation at the same time.
Think about that the next time you buy a pair of work boots...
Moreover, it is possible to find very good products for an affordable price, like what Uniqlo offers.
TECHWEAR PANTS
It's a rapidly expanding range : chinos with water-repellent canvas, extremely technical waterproof and windproof pants, extensibility, wear resistance, in short, the list is long! The designs can be hyper minimalist, or on the contrary military influences, with a multitude of pockets.
At first glance, they look like classic pants, but...
...its fabric is actually water-repellent.
In recent years, the fashion for cycling and fixed gear has given a boost to this segment, pushing brands that have no connection with the technical world to invest in this market.
Thus, Levi's launched its Commuter line, with products specially designed for cycling, while keeping a spirit specific to the brand.
TECHWEAR SHOES
It is the sector that presents the most technologies, and is also the most consumed. Sports shoes have the advantage of being socially accepted, so that it no longer shocks anyone when they are worn in casual outfits.
The brands offer a very wide range of products , ranging from classic sneakers revisited with contemporary technologies, to Gore-Tex® hiking boots, including formal shoes with quality cushioning (like the Lunar Grand by Cole Hann ).
Model from the Wings+Horns x Danner collab, its robustness is quite obvious. The “hiking boot” influence is very clear!
Moreover, in recent years, some brands like nonnative have been working on developing formal or casual shoes incorporating Gore-Tex®. The approach is really attractive because it allows classics to be renewed without distorting their design.
TECHWEAR ACCESSORIES AND BAGS
This area is sometimes neglected by certain brands. However, we can find classic but technologically advanced things, which can be easily integrated into a daily outfit , such as military-inspired belts with magnetic closure or connected bracelets.
You will also find technical bags with waterproof materials, with heat-sealed seams, and with breathable straps (very practical in summer).
This bag is 100% waterproof: immerse in water if you wish, its contents will remain dry. Practical for the most adventurous among us.
Some brands also offer sleeping bags with technologies like Pertex®. Don't hesitate to check the offers in this range from time to time because a multitude of pieces, often very inventive, could make your life easier.
THE DIFFERENT STYLES OF TECHWEAR
I will try to explain the different trends to you, and list the brands that relate to them . Of course, I will only develop the subject that concerns us: fashion.
I will broaden the scope of the article on outdoor sports (clothing adapted to the practice of sport in large spaces), because in addition to being exciting, it will benefit those practicing these disciplines (skiing, hiking, fishing). the fly, etc.), or planning to get started. Not to mention that some pieces are very easy to integrate into an outfit.
On the other hand, I will not deal with certain professional segments such as equipment for firefighters or aeronautics. It's too specific, and realistically, who is going to wear a flame-retardant jacket?
That said, it is sometimes difficult to categorize a brand in a specific segment. Especially since some are not necessarily techwear, but sometimes offer a few pieces in a collection - often thanks to a collaboration - and could enter these lists. So I apologize in advance, but this list is exhaustive.
CASUAL TECHWEAR
Also known as “performance menswear”, this category is one of the most widespread and consumed. Often featuring rather classic designs, it can be worn on a daily basis , both at work and during leisure, depending on the brand.
The Outlier brand chose to photograph its blazers in movement, just to emphasize the techwear side. What do you think ? Are we heading towards the blazer of the future?
The pieces can be ultra formal with blazers made from waterproof and breathable materials, brogues in Gore-Tex®... or rather casual with chinos in water-repellent canvas, refined softshells, merino wool hats, or even parkas like the Canada Goose , adapted to extreme cold.
The multitude of products allows as many people as possible to find something to satisfy them, as long as they look.
Casual techwear brands
- EFM Menswear
- Endless Ammo
- eclectic
- Finnistere
- Indochino Tech Suits
- Levi's : Commuter Line
- Makers & Riders
- Ministry of Supply
- Camel Active
- Canada Goose
- Proof NY
- Stutterheim
- SWRVE
- And Wander
- Aether
- Arc'Teryx
- Herno Laminar
- Isaora
- Jiberish Grand Cru
- ma.strum
- Mission Workshop
- Nike : NSW
- Outlier
- Nanamica
- Nau
- Stone Island
- Triple Aught Design
- Ten-C
- The North Face : Purple Label
- Uniqlo
- Cole Hann
- non-native
MEN’S FASHION INCORPORATING TECHWEAR
Category quite similar to the previous one, but with a much more assertive character. It is mainly made up of Japanese brands like nonnative, Visvim , Nanamica and Undercover . Each brand has its own history and style, but unlike “casual techwear”, they are not always suitable for wearing to work.
Some labels have very interesting approaches because design takes precedence over function. This sometimes requires the integration of experimental materials and treatments, the true usefulness and reliability of which is not always proven. However, they dare, and their vision of fashion is perhaps the one that will prevail in the more or less near future.
I highly recommend reading (for English speakers) the “Six Stories of Gore-Tex®” series of articles. Six of the best Japanese designers, such as Hiroki Nakamura of Visvim, talk about their vision of clothing incorporating Gore-Tex®, and their relationship / history with this type of product.
Men's fashion brands incorporating techwear
- 4DIMENSION
- BEAMS
- CP Company
- Finally Risen
- Herno Laminar
- Isaora
- Junya Watanabe
- ma.strum
- MastermindJapan
- Muro.exe
- Nike : NSW
- non-native
- The North Face : Purple Label
- MCAO
- Pedalded
- Sophnet
- Stahl Corp.
- Stone Island
- Undercover
- Uniform Experiment
- Visvim
- White Mountaineering
- Y-3
THE TOTAL TECHWEAR LOOK OR THE TECH-NINJA
Welcome to the land of “Technical Urban Minimal”: one of the most aesthetically and technically interesting segments, even if the products are sometimes difficult to integrate into a classic outfit. Not to mention the purchase price which, generally, is as crazy as the designs offered.
Moreover, the latter can be ultra minimalist, with a multitude of small details, or on the contrary eccentric, unstructured and asymmetrical. The range of colors is also often reduced to the strict minimum: black, olive, midnight blue, beige, gray and sometimes white.
Some brands like Arc'Teryx Veilance and Acronym offer a total city ninja look, and Axesquin offers kimonos in technical materials.
Half-ninja, half-hooligan, these looks are difficult but no less interesting.
These brands have a range of accessories, notably bags where modularity and integration are the guidelines, truly ingenious. Lightness and ease of movement are particularly important.
On the other hand, note that certain pieces from other brands can easily be integrated, such as sneakers or technical tees.
For fans of very dark Rick Owens looks, don't hesitate to pick up a few pieces that will go well with your XXXL tee and your lunar explorer shoes.
It's not the easiest look to wear, but if you're a parkour or cyberpunk fan, go for it!
Tech-ninja brands
- Acronym
- Norwegian Rain
- Arc'Teryx Veilance
- Aether
- Axesquin
- Disaern
- Maharishi
- Mission Workshop
- Nike : Gyakusou and NSW
- Respro
- Stone Island: Shadow Project
FUTURISTIC TECHWEAR
This is fashion conceptualized to the extreme : experimental cuts, cutting-edge materials, hyper-specialization of functions... overthinking in all its splendor! We are reaching the limits of what fashion can offer, although they are pushed back each season, thanks to new techniques and technologies.
You'll find a plethora of futuristic techwear silhouettes, with such cuts, at Aitor Throup.
This is a segment that could be described as a “concept look”, a bit like a techwear R&D studio.
Not only are these outfits very difficult to wear, but they are also not easy to find because few shops offer them. We wonder why.
Futuristic techwear brands
Aitor Throup
Christopher Raeburn
Civilized
CP Company
finalhome
Mary Mattingly
Adidas x Rick Owens collaborations
TECHWEAR IN ATHLETIC AND SPORTS FASHION
Let's come back to earth. The practice of fixie and urban jogging have boosted the creativity of quite a few labels. Many sports brands now offer their products in specific lines, mixing sports performance and urban design , such as Nike Kyakusou in collaboration with Undercover or Adidas with Japanese designer Kuzuki Kuraishi.
The Adidas x Kazuki Kuraishi techwear clothing is even suitable for horse riding, it's our ponies who will be happy.
Other brands have urbanized a particular universe, as Rapha did with cycling, by offering products for cycling and fixie. We will not talk about the impressive number of more or less technical messenger bags that can be found on the market.
The technologies are quite classic: mainly waterproof, breathable materials and allowing very good ease of movement, without irritation or friction. The concepts are quite interesting, particularly on the pants offered by bike/fixie brands, or Windstopper® softshells.
Sports techwear brands
- Acre
- Adidas and its collaborations (ObyO KZK)
- Asics
- Burton
- Chromium
- DaKine
- Fjällräven
- Giro
- Levi's : Commuter Line
- Makers and Riders
- Master Piece
- Mission Workshop
- Nike and its collaborations (Gyakusou)
- Patagonia
- peak
- Rapha
- Reebok
- Oakley
- SWRVE
- Under Armor
- Vulpine
- Y-3
DESIGNER TECHWEAR
Very few pieces are offered by Haute Couture, where tradition and the adulation of classic and artisanal techniques are the norm.
However, some designers sometimes use technical materials, heat-sealed seams and technologies never before seen in a garment.
Unlike futuristic techwear, we are not looking for functionality, but for artistic performance . This being said, it can constitute a source of inspiration for designers of other brands.
This Hussein Chalayan dress, although a feminine piece, is one of the most famous examples of techwear in Haute-Couture, where LEDs have been added into the fiber to create this effect.
Techwear brands in Haute-Couture
- Christopher Raeburn
- Hussein Chalayan
- Issey Miyake
- Junya Watanabe (solo or with CDG)
- Raf Simons
- Rick Owens
- Prada
- Undercover
Note from Rafik: As recalled by Romain in his guide to luxury brands and houses in men's fashion , the "Haute-Couture" designation is controlled and subject to strict specifications. Here, the expression is to be understood in the sense of “podium brands”.
OUTDOOR TECHWEAR
The brands in this segment are those using the most technical materials: they are specialized in the field of hiking, mountaineering, sports navigation, and sometimes in the world of workwear .
Some brands offer quality products, at very affordable prices, but with a sometimes questionable look for daily use. They generally offer very technical products, designed for a specific sporting practice.
On this Haglof model, for example, the sporty side is too marked to be worn in an urban context.
They are also popular with trades requiring specific needs, such as having breathable and/or waterproof fabrics (hence the overlap with workwear).
New York bike couriers were the first to adopt lightweight North Face hiking or trail jackets in the mid-1980s.
A wide range of accessories is also offered, including particularly resistant technical bags.
Outdoor techwear brands
- Adidas
- Beyond Clothing
- Columbia
- Crispi
- Dolomite
- Geoff Anderson
- Haglöfs
- Härkila
- Helly Hansen
- Klattermusen
- Lowe Alpine
- MacPac
- Maloja
Mammut - Marmot
- Merrell
- Millet
- Montane
- Mountain Equipment
- Napapijri
- Nike ACG
- The North Face
- Oakley
- Patagonia
- PeakPerformance
- REI
- Salewa
- Solomon
- Saucony
- Under Armor
- Vaude
- viking
TECHWEAR IN THE MILITARY WORLD
Technical and technological advances have always interested the military, which today explains the presence of Gore-Tex® jackets in almost all Western armies. Moreover, some of the technologies developed specifically for them are found today in civilian clothing, such as RipStop® (literally “stops tears”) or Kevlar® in bullet-proof vests.
Brands like Patagonia and Arc'Teryx also work with certain armies, or offer military lines. The success of civil security companies, contractors (private military companies), or the growth of elite groups like SWAT in the USA, have opened a market that even interests brands like Nike, to the point of selling combat boots. with in-house technologies.
Note from Rafik: I was quite doubtful about Nike combat boots, but after a quick look on the web, users do not hesitate to praise them!
In fact, many soldiers include breathable sports tees in their outfits, such as the HeatGear® line from Under Armour.
It is possible to take a few pieces from this segment to give a little character to a somewhat bland look, while adding technique.
Military techwear brands
