I will introduce you to some of the most commonly used fabrics and materials . I am not going to list everything because some are only very little used, generally appearing in very high-end and expensive products, or in more or less experimental clothing whose real efficient capacity has not been proven.
Not to mention that some brands have developed and/or produced technical fabrics in-house (H²O for Patagonia , TriplePoint for Lowe Alpine , OmniDry with Columbia , etc.)
I'm not going to go into overly technical details either: this is on the one hand very difficult to popularize and therefore quite boring to read, and on the other hand it's an area that interests you, the sites of dedicated brands will give you better information than me.
The basic principles of techwear
Waterproofing
It is measured in Schmerber (or mm). To do this, we place the fabric under a tube (column) filled with water, then we calculate from what height of water the first drops pass through the fabric. The greater the water height, the more waterproof the fabric will be (1 Schmerber = 1 column of water of 1 mm).
For example, all Gore-tex® jackets have a value of 28,000 Schmerber, the Sympatex® 35000 Schmerber, and the eVent® 30,000.
Water column used by Gore. The technical fabric is placed under the type of "shower" to test its waterproofness.
But some manufacturers, Polartec® first and foremost, are calling into question the race for waterproofing, claiming that a value of 10,000 Schmerber is more than sufficient to stay dry, especially since too much waterproofing would reduce breathability. We will come back to this later.
Breathability
To measure breathability, there are several processes:
1. Gore-tex® uses RET (Evaporative Transfer Resistance): this index (which has somewhat become the standard) measures the ability of a fabric to let water vapor generated by the body (perspiration) escape. . The lower the index, the more it indicates that the garment is breathable:
- RET less than 6: very breathable,
- RET between 6 and 12: breathable,
- RET between 12 and 20: weakly breathable,
- RET above 20: non-breathable.
2. The MVTR measurement (water vapor transmission rate), a test used by most of Gore's competitors (the company that created Gore-Tex®, editor's note) : we calculate the quantity of water (in the form of vapor ) that the fabric allows to pass in 24 hours .
The higher the degree, the more favorable the breathing (the unit used is gr/m²/24 h):
- MVTR 30,000 = extremely breathable garment,
- MVTR 20,000 = garment with very good breathability,
- MVTR 10,000 = breathable clothing,
- MVTR 5,000 = poorly breathable garment.
This is the device used for MVTR testing. Personally, it reminds me of those weird devices that were lying around on the benches in physics class.
These are the two standard tests, but there is a third, advocated by Polartec®: the DPMC (Dynamic Moisture Permeation Cell). Unlike the other two, it is not a static test, and would therefore be closer to the reality of practitioners . In short, to compare it's a mess.
The different waterproof and breathable fabrics each have their own technology: 1, 2, 2.5 or 3 layers, honeycomb, etc. For example, the Gore-Tex® membrane is a very thin layer of polytetrafluoroethylene (a flexible material) with more than a billion microscopic pores per cm².
- These pores are 20,000 times smaller than a drop of water , so rain cannot pass through, allowing the membrane to be waterproof.
- These pores, however, allow perspiration generated by exercise to pass through, because they are 700 times larger than a molecule of water vapor, which allows the membrane to be both waterproof and breathable.
For our non-English speaking friends (from left to right): "water vapor evacuation", "rain, wind and snow do not penetrate", "outer material", "Gore-Tex® membrane", "lining".
Here, we go into details which are sometimes complicated and which may put off some when reading, but be aware that certain exterior fabrics must be treated to be waterproof/water-repellent and breathable. We are talking about DWR (Durable Water Repellent).
The main materials in techwear
Gore-Tex®
Gore-Tex® was the first waterproof fabric on the market. Released in 1969, it became the dominant technology thanks to its ability to let perspiration pass through, while keeping the body warm.
It is the reference technology, and also the most used. The standards to be met to obtain Gore accreditation are very strict and ensure very high quality. The clothing actually undergoes a series of tests to be eligible to carry the Gore-Tex® label, which is as much a guarantee of quality as it is a marketing tool.
All seams, to prevent leaks, are sealed with Gore-Seam® sealing strips for long-lasting waterproofing.
There are different types of fabrics:
- Gore-Tex®
Used mainly in “amateur” technical outdoor clothing, this category also includes Gore-tex® Paclite and Gore-tex® Softshell technologies, with a RET of between 6 and 13.
They are also the least expensive pieces with Gore-Tex®, and often the most versatile. It is also the technology most used in fashion because it allows for great ease of creation.
- Gore-Tex® Active
Gore-tex® Active clothing meets precise specifications: less than 400 grams for a size L jacket for men, RET coefficient less than 3, while combining a compact 3-layer waterproof construction (28,000 mm ). It is therefore super breathable and light.
The main uses are hiking, trail running, mountain biking, etc. These are products that can be quite easily inserted into an outfit, especially sportswear, and are more practical than a slightly heavy or bulky coat.
We recognize the bias towards a resolutely sporty design on these Gore-Tex® Active shells.
- Gore-Tex® Pro
Here we get into VERY serious matters, it's a bit of a showcase for the company. The main differences with previous products, apart from the price, are in the ability to resist abrasion and tearing.
We find these products in high-end mountain, trekking and long-distance hiking clothing, as well as ski and snowboard clothing.
This type of Gore-Tex® is rarely used for urban clothing because it is far too technical. But the “fadas” – as Pagnol would have said – from Acronym were not afraid to try their hand at it, and are offering jackets with this membrane.
SympaTex®
It is the big competitor of Gore-Tex®. The membrane is completely waterproof (35,000 Schmerber), windproof and breathable (with a RET measured at 1.5). It is recognized as one of the best protections on the market .
The technology is quite close to what Gore-Tex does, but it is 100% recyclable, and designed with completely biodegradable materials. It is also certified without health risks.
It is used by many brands such as Haegen , Geoff Anderson or Vaude .
This Geoff Anderson jacket in Sympatex® will have no trouble integrating into the wardrobe of lovers of this type of piece.
Cordura®
It is a material produced by DuPont de Nemours , best known for its nylons and synthetic materials. Cordura is a brand name often used for a multitude of its fabrics, which also have a reputation for durability .
Finally, Cordura also produces cotton blends for ripstop, denim, twill, and jerseys.
Ripstop
Ripstop is a synthetic fabric made in a more or less large mesh, by a particular arrangement of the warp and weft threads, which makes it possible to reinforce the structure of the canvas.
This prevents, among other things, the extension of a tear during a snag. It can sometimes be coated or treated to ensure waterproofing.
It is a fabric often used in military outfits, its lightness and resistance being very appreciated.
On this ripstop canvas with camo print (again, it is widely used in the military field), we can very clearly see the mesh adopted, specific to this material.
Pertex®
Pertex® is a brand of technical fabrics. With different Gore-Tex® constructions, they provide additional features, such as thermal temperature control .
Thus, Pertex® fabrics are found in product ranges where Gore-Tex® is almost absent, such as sleeping bags or “mid layers” such as “down jackets”.
The brand's technical fabrics generally offer light and warm products, and provide protection with an unrivaled weight/bulk/resistance ratio.
The range of technical fabrics presented by the brand is varied and complex, but the Pertex® logo is a guarantee of quality in view of the brands that have chosen to use these technologies: Millet , PeakPerformance , Montane, etc.
In the “fashion techwear” segment, Undercover is a strong supporter of the brand’s products and regularly includes them in its designs.
NeoShell®
It is one of the technical products of the Polartec® brand. A supporter of breathability, she has made it her hobby horse, and is leading an anti-Gore-Tex® crusade.
Indeed, she calls into question waterproofing, the big strong point of Gore-tex® (and also eVent®) by explaining: " no need to push waterproofing so far, we don't ski during the monsoon, we we don't need as much Schmerber for normal use” (David Gatti of Polartec – ISPO 2011).
Brief.
The cut is well executed on these NeoShell® pants, further proof that techwear is increasingly finding its place in the daily wardrobe.
NeoShell® clothing therefore resists a pressure of 10,000 Schmerber, and has an air permeability of 0.5 CFM (2 liters/m²/second) compared to 0.1 CFM for eVent®, and 0 CFM for Gore-Tex®. The NeoShell® would therefore allow air to circulate better to facilitate the evacuation of perspiration.
It’s the brand/membrane that’s rising, and its buzz is catching on well. As proof, the long list of prestigious brands in the field of mountain clothing that it has managed to attract: Eider , Marmot , The North Face, Vaude , Rab and Mammut ...
In addition to athletes, fixie and “urban bike” riders appreciate this technology, because the lightness/breathability/waterproofing combo perfectly suits their needs.
eVent®
This is another competitor to Gore-Tex®. With a fairly similar technology (30,000 Schmerber), it would allow better breathability of the fabric because it is direct, unlike Gore-tex® technology. On the other hand, it would be less durable.
Unlike Gore-Tex®, manufacturers can purchase fabric and rename it as they see fit, with the license being “unbranded”. eVent® allows more original and interesting designs thanks to its technology. However, this could lead to lower quality products.
In fact, look at this little test which shows the limits of the eVent (it's in English, but the images still speak for themselves):
Many small brands use it since the constraints are less compared to those of Gore-Tex®, without necessarily making products at a discount. We find these technical fabrics in products like those from REI, but also in many military and firefighter clothing, as well as in technical work outfits.
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Product of the Swiss brand Schoeller , this waterproof and windproof membrane ensures temperature regulation and breathability.
Its particular technology, when the body's heat and humidity levels increase, promotes the ability to "open" the membrane. However, it remains closed when it is cold, since the wearer sweats less.
These membranes are found in many products, they are very popular with many brands such as Acre , Mission Workshop , Aether, TAD and Levi's Commuter .
Windstopper®
Windstopper® technology is a Gore technology, allowing the creation of windproof and breathable clothing. While being water resistant, they are not waterproof , unlike Gore-Tex® clothing which is waterproof, breathable and windproof at the same time.
But the protection of Windstopper® fabrics against the wind, as well as the breathability of the material, are superior to those of Gore-Tex® .
This membrane is mainly found in clothing in the "softshell" category, like this The North Face model.
It is a widely used material because it allows us to design extremely light and space-saving clothing. Brands like Patagonia or Marmot have adopted it; often suggested for sporting activities such as cycling, running and mountain sports.
It is also used in quite a few urban pieces, and some brands make casual or even formal clothes, incorporating these technical fabrics.
Incidentally, there are several types of Windstopper® technologies, with various characteristics (technical fleece, insulated shell, etc.)
Kevlar
Originally produced by DuPont de Nemours, but now in the public domain because its patent has expired, Kevlar is a synthetic fiber of very high strength and rigidity . There are many types that I will not list here, because very few are used in the clothing world.
It is mainly used as protection against abrasion or impact , and generally reinforces clothing at points of friction, such as elbows or knees.
It can also be used for protective shells integrated into jackets or pants reserved for extreme sports, for military clothing or for biker outfits.
The inserts at the top of the fingers are made of Kevlar, to reinforce protection in the event of a motorcycle fall, or to hurt a lot when someone bothers you (violence is bad).
Care of techwear clothing
Pay attention to the maintenance of your parts!
You must not do anything, otherwise you will lose the properties of your clothes. I advise you to go to the brand's website ( like here for Arc'Teryx Veilance ), generally a page is dedicated to the maintenance and cleaning of their products. If this is not the case, do not hesitate to email them, or look for explanatory videos on Youtube, before thinking of yourself as Tony Micelli .
This kind of tutorial flourishes on Youtube:
Techwear: conclusion
As you can see, techwear concerns a very wide range of products and styles. It is true that these are not the cheapest clothes, but the quality is generally there.
By studying the offer carefully, and taking some time to think before making a purchase, you will be able to find the piece that will easily fit into your wardrobe. Once you wear it, you will realize how comfortable it is. Not only in design and cut, but also in use.
On a daily basis, you will appreciate the breathability of the membranes in the metro, the exceptional waterproofness during your vacation in Hérault, or the daring designs to take as much time as your girlfriend with her handbag to find your cell phone in the many pockets of your jacket.
