Disclaimer: Kevin, former intern at BonneGueule and blogger at Le Renardeau , returns to our columns to tell you about a brand that he really appreciates: Drapeau Noir.
He has therefore tested their dobby shirt for you, as well as their dobby sweatshirt too, and will give you advice on how to wear them, before giving you his opinion on the brand.
Kevin, the floor is yours.
_____
Have you never heard of Drapeau Noir ? Today is the opportunity for you to fall in love with a new brand with a rich philosophy and effective design!
From the (lawyer) dress to the perfecto
First of all, I would like to introduce Nicolas Barbier, founder of the Drapeau Noir brand. To summarize his adventure, it's the story of a lawyer who drops everything overnight to make clothes. We have a Hollywood script, don't we?
Nicolas Barbier, founder of the “Drapeau Noir” brand, wearing his chambray shirt from Kuroki .
Through his brand, Nicolas wants to convey something strong, while remaining simple, modest and above all authentic. Basically, he wanted to stay himself. He's a good guy, I swear!
His world is imbued with a dark spirit with the scent of burnt gum and gasoline. A world of “good guys” that could be summed up by the term of Anglo-Saxon origin “badass”, which literally means “tough guy”.
Hence the name Drapeau Noir, a strong symbol of the “anarchist” and freedom movement. But let's remember that the brand does not hold any political position!
Drapeau Noir, a love story that must last as long as possible
The brand offers clothing with a beautiful design, accessible to all men and without any pretension. But what makes the product rich lies above all in the shaping and quality of the fabrics chosen.
Indeed, Nicolas decided to use fabrics exclusively from Japan for his very first collection . Just like us, you are starting to get used to it, and will surely recognize some fabrics that are already familiar to you: cotton knitted on Tsuri machines , or even Kuroki chambray.
The pieces are then made in Europe, in countries like Portugal.
Test of the white dobby shirt in Drapeau Noir (€120)
Let's start without further ado with the presentation of this shirt: the strong point of this piece is obviously its original and nicely worked fabric.
What I like is that at first glance it looks like a simple white shirt with black dots, but actually no! These black dots are the result of embroidery carried out all over the fabric , which therefore brings a beautiful relief to the piece.
This work on the fabric is impressive, and does not at all suggest a setback of this kind. Remember to roll up your sleeves for a guaranteed effect. 😉
The cut is slightly fitted , which gives a structured look in all circumstances. For my part, it is a bit long, which is why I decided to “break up” its length by tying a sweatshirt around my waist.
Black Flag Shirt, Uniqlo Jeans, Mossant Hat and Black Flag Sweatshirt.
The shirt is very comfortable, and can just as easily be worn without clothing underneath, without feeling the embroidery to the touch.
Finally, it can be worn open, closed, with a t-shirt underneath or not. You are free to appropriate the shirt as you wish, and this is precisely how it was made: the aim is to ensure that those who wear the garment can appropriate it in their own way.
It's an American collar (= buttons which hold the points of the collar) that we have here. Its shape allows the shirt to be worn with or without a tie, although a thin model is preferred with this type of collar.
The buttons are mounted crosswise, a good point.
The seams are very clean, nothing to complain about.
And finally, swallows are also present . In addition to the purely aesthetic aspect, they provide reinforcement to the shirt at this level, and also constitute a guarantee of the quality of the piece.
The swallow is a detail that I particularly like because once the shirt is worn, you realize that it adds something extra to the room, but in a very discreet way.
Test of the Black Flag dobby sweatshirt (€130)
After discovering our collaboration with Benjamin Jezequel on the BGBJ sweatshirt , you may have discovered, for some, that this piece was not only intended for teenagers. As we have proven to you, the sweatshirt can be perfectly integrated into both casual and slightly more sophisticated outfits.
Drapeau Noir shares the idea we have of sweatshirts at BonneGueule, and offers a well-cut garment, with a truly sought-after material.
A sweatshirt with a loose cut, which immediately removes the “teen” feel of this type of piece.
As you have seen, the sweatshirt can be worn over a shirt to offer a perfectly neat combo.
I also suggest an unusual way to wear your sweatshirt, inside your pants. It's confusing, but it's the kind of possibility I like to explore with my clothes. This can reinforce the dressier look of the outfit, with or without a shirt underneath, although I am well aware that this is not to everyone's taste.
Black Flag sweatshirt, H&M carrot cut pants and belt, Eytys sneakers.
You can also turn the side edge inwards for a less pronounced casual look.
In this way, we maintain the relaxed spirit, but without looking slovenly.
And finally, wear it in a basic way, but I'm less of a fan. The look seems less accomplished to me, and does not give the impression of controlling the room.
Note from Geoffrey: What Kévin says, while illustrating it in photos, is extremely accurate. Of course, we are talking about an advanced look, which will not suit all environments. But if we focus on pure aesthetics and forget the usual big rules, we realize that the look works much better with the sweatshirt tucked into the pants, as confusing as that may seem.
An unsightly crease at the hips, due to my wide pants, breaks the shape of the outfit. Be vigilant about these kinds of small details when creating your looks.
Note from Benoit: the sweatshirt could have been taken a size smaller 😉
In terms of material, it is a pleasant and original fleece and speckled cotton , which gives an effect and texture that is just as interesting to the sight as to the touch.
This speckled aspect makes this sweatshirt unique, in a very subtle way.
On the reverse side of the sweatshirt, the lining has a woolly texture . What I find very interesting is that we still retain this “cocoon” and very comfortable spirit of a sweatshirt, without necessarily having the look of the guy hanging out in front of his TV on a Sunday afternoon.
The sweatshirt is quite warm, but doesn't suffocate you either, which is quite suitable for fall wear. Also note the cleanliness and regularity of the interior finishes.
I find the collar correctly made, especially in relation to its opening . It allows you to clearly see the collar of the shirt that you will wear underneath, without letting the collar of the t-shirt stick out, if you choose to wear it like that.
You see what I was talking about, the collar is slightly open. This increases the possibilities of combinations with shirt collars. By the way, I think I tanned slightly.
Here, a photo of the sweatshirt worn over the Dobby shirt. The collar of the shirt stands out very well and is not muffled by the sweatshirt. On the contrary, I even find that the shirt is highlighted.
Consider choosing patterned shirts, or with an interesting color, to create a contrast between the 2 layers.
Black Flag: our opinion
Before testing and seeing the brand's products, I only saw basics that added very little to current men's fashion. But what you need to understand at Drapeau Noir is that we first and foremost emphasize the quality and choice of fabrics. This is where the strength of the brand lies.
After touching and wearing the clothes, my opinion was immediately formed. The clothes are comfortable , and fit perfectly with the other pieces in my wardrobe.
The fabrics are really very beautiful , and the attention paid to the product is really noticeable when you see the multitude of details that the clothes present , all this with a very honest quality-price ratio.
