On April 7, 2013, 300 pairs of our first high sneaker collaboration with National Standard left... in less than 24 hours .
This was one of our most dazzlingly successful collaborations, because even a year and a half later, we still continue to receive requests for restocking ... not to mention that the dedicated article has accumulated more than 200 comments (with almost 300 votes for a reissue)!
We couldn't stop there, and 19 months later, it was time to once again offer a pair of high-end sneakers, with well-chosen colors and numerous style possibilities.
But everything didn't go as well as expected... we argued again about the colors... so it's not one, but two models that we present to you, in very different colors.
The two models looking at each other!
Why a new collaboration with National Standard?
I wore my BGNS-01 intensively, and I didn't spare them: hikes on stony terrain in Crete, snow and salt in Montreal, liquids of all kinds spilled in the evening, and wearing them for several days in a row very regularly in Paris. Oh, and did I tell you that I even went mountain climbing with it? (don’t be like me!).
After all this mistreatment, I am still surprised to see that they have endured these two years well .
Obviously, the leather is pleated in certain places, but I assure you that they still fit easily into my everyday outfits:
These BGNS-01 sneakers are from April 2013 (our first collaboration with National Standard). They were worn very intensively, and valiantly endured the countless evenings drinking pastis while listening to David Guetta (the poor). To keep them white, I cleaned them with Jason Markk .
They have become the most comfortable shoes I have , and they have aged very well. Therefore, since we were extremely satisfied with the quality of National Standard , we are doing it again in a few days with a mid model.
Why mid-top sneakers?
Small reminder, there are low sneakers ( low ), high sneakers ( high ) and medium sneakers in between, which we call mid . Purists even say mid-tops .
Visually, since there is more material around the ankle, the design possibilities are more numerous than with a pair of lows. I also know that some people feel a little intimidated by a pair of high sneakers, thinking that they restrict the figure... Well, there is no need for these concerns with a mid model .
But I will have the opportunity to return to this point in a future article.
How to ensure the quality of a pair of sneakers?
As with our first collaboration, the two sneaker models are mounted on soles from the manufacturer Margom (which has one of the most old school websites I have ever seen).
No, you are not dreaming, this image in postage stamp format is one of the very rare photos available from the Margom workshop. Impossible to find a larger photo!
As a reminder, Margom equips many luxury houses with soles (Balenciaga for example), because in addition to a very timeless sense of design (thickness of the sole, design of the band at the front, etc.), Margom masters very well the rubber vulcanization process. As I wrote at the time, it's a bit like the Italian Michelin... but for the soles.
Beyond durability, special mention for the natural rubber color which develops a patina over the months .
The famous Margom sole, with its small recognizable logo. New for 2014: the sole is now finely engraved with the brand name.
There is also something new for 2014: metal eyelets have been added to solidify the assembly, better distributing the tension exerted by the laces... in addition to giving the sneakers a chic side.
These eyelets are a detail that may seem trivial, but if you pay attention, you will see that they are far from being present on all high-end sneakers...
Arnaud and François from National Standard pushed the details to the point of choosing two different sizes of eyelets. We can also see the subtle texture of taupe gray and the waxed laces.
Still regarding the assembly, the sneakers are made in the same Portuguese workshop as our first collaboration, the same one which manufactures sneakers for other brands well over €300.
Thanks to its expertise, the workshop was able to create a small recess at the rear of which Arnaud and François, the founders of National Standard, are very proud because it is quite complex to create.
The arrows indicate the famous break. In this photo, the light comes from an angle to show you the texture of the gray parts.
The assembly of these sneakers is more complicated than that of the BGNS-01, because the assemblies of materials are more sophisticated (different overlapping leathers, slightly offset eyelets, etc.).
But fortunately, the Portuguese workshop once again came through brilliantly!
Why this choice of colors?
First of all, you should know that it is very difficult to cheat on the color of low-end leather. To have a uniform color, which lasts and becomes more beautiful over time, it is necessary to choose high-end leathers.
So as usual, Italian leathers are used in the recipe for BGNS-02 and 03.
And on this collaboration, we wanted to push the variety of textures further...
The BGNS-02: clear, easy, and a little original with their reptile pattern (Geoffrey model)
On the BGNS-02, anthracite suede leather rubs shoulders with another suede leather embossed with a reptile pattern, for a more designer side (a requirement from Geoffrey, who loves this exotic side).
Finally, white leather brightens the entire shoe. You will notice that the color code is a nod to the BGNS-01, especially in terms of the natural rubber colored sole that I loved so much. This is why we insisted on keeping it.
We therefore wanted a pair with versatile and easy-to-wear colors , just like the first BGNS-01 .
Beige, white, gray, texture: it’s the easiest model to wear.
The BGNS-03: more elaborate colors and a nod to cordovan (Benoît model)
When we tell you that gray helps calm stronger colors...
On the BGNS-03, the design is a little more original.
Big news, BonneGueule is trying out dark sneakers! The trick we found is to use black in very small touches , at the eyelets and the tongue.
This sneaker therefore presents four different leathers , compared to three on the BGNS-02. I tried as best I could to avoid using black, but I had to face the facts, a black tab (with a slightly oily texture) went much better with the very matte anthracite of the sneaker body. Indeed, the test with the anthracite colored tab unbalanced the other colors...
The more observant among you will have noticed that the texture of the leather of the tongue and eyelets is very slightly different from that of the dark gray leather 😉
The texture between the tongue and the anthracite body of the sneaker is not quite the same. And you once again find the waxed laces!
To brighten up these dark colors, we placed a slightly textured navy blue leather to color the whole thing.
We also wanted a more creative and “stronger” model than the BGNS-02 model. For this reason, we added a small touch of slightly shiny burgundy leather, obtained by brushing and rubbing it.
It's an original, unusual color that's rarely used in sneakers (apart from luxury brands, see Balenciaga), and that's precisely what interested us . We found that it balanced well with the other matte textures of the sneaker, with its little cordovan side (a very particular horse leather).
Burgundy blends nicely with navy blue.
Finally, the choice of sole color led to intense discussions. I've always loved the burgundy/gray mix, and after several tries, we landed on this light gray sole, to brighten up the shoe. Otherwise, we found the result to be too dark.
Another light, with Florian who absolutely wants to keep his hem visible...
Said like that, their development seems simple, but there were indeed three prototypes for each model before finding the right balance. And believe me, a five-way debate (Benoît vs Geoffrey vs the National Standard team) on shades of colors to change can last a very long time... much worse than a Mario Kart tournament.
For the record, Arnaud (from NS) told me that certain skins selected by National Standard had been refused by a luxury brand, because it judged that the leathers were too expensive for its models. So much the better, it allows us to differentiate ourselves.
How do these sneakers fit?
Very normally.
Those who already own National Standard will take their usual size.
If you are a size 43 in other brands, take a 43. If you are a size 40, simply take a 40! If you are a happy owner of the BNGS-01, know that the sizing is the same.
Concerning myself, I was between two sizes for the BGNS-01, the 44 is just a little big for me. But I bought an insole to make up that half size, and now it's perfect, they're like slippers. This is perhaps the only pair of shoes that I can wear for several days in a row without feeling any pain.
Such soles can be found at Monsieur Chaussure. It even has a "sensitive feet" insole which I haven't tried, but looks awesome!
What does that mean in terms of quantities?
Since the order was placed a long time ago, we have 600 pairs, 400 for the BGNS-02 and 200 for the BGNS-03. I would tend to say that there will be something for everyone, but you know the drill: I said the same thing for the first BGNS-01 games in 24 hours or, more recently, for the pants which are became sold out in... 3 hours.
So I no longer make predictions (and sometimes, I'm even surprised to find myself without the collaboration I wanted, because our little startup has to grow...).
Intense reflections for these material agreements. Worse than a game of Risk!
Where to find sneakers?
They are now available on the BonneGueule shop .
