In the rain , in the wind and even in good weather, trench coats, Macs and other raincoats have long dressed all kinds of characters in the cinema. Crime, science fiction, comedy or action film: you will see that they adapt to all situations. For inspiration and because cinemas are still closed, a new Reel is essential.
I invite you once is not customary to take your time to discover it, or to peck here and there according to the time and the mood. As for knowing which outerwear pieces to adopt more generally for mid-season, David gives you some ideas here .
1. The legend of the trench coat
“ Casablanca ” (Michael Curtiz, 1942)
Who knows how it all turned into legend? The first trench coats appeared in Europe at the beginning of the 20th century. However, the military is not the first image that comes to mind about the trench coat. No, we instead visualize a man with a hat, a cloud of gray and blue smoke and an atmosphere specific to suspense .
Trench coat and Casablanca, you are not dreaming. It's a slightly counterintuitive association: the first is a garment generally assigned to dog times , the second is a large Moroccan city facing the sea, a city of light.
Between the two, a film released in the middle of the Second World War and which has since become cult: “Casablanca” by Michael Curtiz. It is not the greatest film of its time and yet it is perhaps the one that best symbolizes the miracle of Hollywood.
It brings together Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman in an adventure that combines the great
(Photo by Donaldson Collection/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)
In a way, “Casablanca” sums up the whole paradox of the trench coat: it is a garment perceived as autumnal when it also has its place in spring . If it is indeed the season of renewal, it is also the season of uncertainty , particularly weather. In “Casablanca”, it rains a few times.
Rick Blaine is a charismatic man. He runs a nightclub and wears a bow tie wonderfully . Played by the unforgettable Humphrey Bogart, he is also a model of sartorial elegance.
No denim here, obviously. But wool suits, silk ties and pocket squares, and above all a white tuxedo jacket that will perhaps haunt you for a while.
If the trench coat in “Casablanca” is one of the most famous in cinema , it is only an extra. He only appears on a few key occasions, giving a glimpse of the look so characteristic of 1940s film noir and popularized by Humphrey Bogart himself.
For a few examples, take a look at John Huston's "The Maltese Falcon" (1941) or Howard Hawks' "The Big Sleep" (1946), two Hollywood classics that will make you love trench coats, overcoats, high-waisted pants and everything in between. relates to felt hats.
Impeccable shoes and suit, Aquascutum watch
If you're looking for a more Play it again approach, Sam '.
2. The trench coat and the moment of grace
“ The Drunken Angel ” (Akira Kurosawa, 1948)
It is the story of a fleeting scene: the movement freezes, we suddenly no longer hear the dialogues, the image becomes blurred and the mind wanders. We haven't really seen the Virgin but it's just like: it's a flash, a moment of grace. And here we are stuck forever on a piece, a look, an outfit…
Try a little to see: it's happening here , we see a trench-type raincoat, a probable light shirt with patterns and Cuban collar associated with light pants also , with visibly a wide cut and nice volumes. Drunk or not: an angel rushes into the crowd.
Less romantic than Rick Blaine, our second man takes us to post-war Japan. We had already stopped at Yasujiro Ozu during a previous Bobine and nothing has changed: Japan remains more than ever a source of inspiration for fashion or cinema .
Take for example “The Drunken Angel” by Akira Kurosawa. It's a classic and it has something of a documentary in its form. Filmed in the late 1940s, it also cleverly draws some of its stylistic influences from American gangsters. Same art of flamboyant costume here , performed night and day in the middle of a failing district of Tokyo.
It is the story of an encounter: that of a willingly alcoholic doctor and a young tubercular yakusa named Matsunaga. The latter is played by Toshiro Mifune, 28 years old and for the first time under the eye of Kurosawa's camera.
This will be the start of a long and tumultuous collaboration between the two men, which will result in a certain number of masterpieces: “Cien Enragé”, “Rashomon” or “The Seven Samurai” to name only three.
As in “Casablanca”, Toshiro Mifune’s style is more on the formal side. Beautiful shoes and double-breasted blazers, loose, high-waisted pants, shirts and ties, all with stripes, light colors and ultimately something quite spring-like in spirit. His character is eminently elegant despite his illness and his frenzied consumption of contraindicated products.
We can see it as the chronicle of a foretold decline, but not only that: the film has its little moments of joy . For clothing lovers, this will take the form of the trench coat mentioned above, for example. We can speak of an apparition, and this is undoubtedly reinforced by the fact that we know relatively little about it.
Is it really a trench coat? And if so, in what material: leather, fabric or plastic? This phenomenon, I'm sure you know it only too well: it's called a crush , and when it arises on the screen, we suddenly want to see, touch and go back to the composition label .
Except that we sometimes don't have all the answers, and that certain pieces seen here and there in the films will remain mysterious, unique, impossible to find anywhere other than on film . If through this film you suddenly wonder what else to wear in the rain, some useful tips here . Otherwise, move on to something lighter. Pack your bags, we're going back to Paris!
3. Mac and Moon Lens
“ My Uncle ” (Jacques Tati, 1958)
You can put away your Tintin album. This is a false alarm. On the other hand, don't expect to keep your feet firmly on the ground. Appearing in 1953 in the resolutely unique cinema of Jacques Tati, Monsieur Hulot is an immediately identifiable character: he is tall, thin , smokes a pipe and his clothes are, so to speak, inseparable from his lunar character .
We have all already encountered a Monsieur Hulot somewhere, and sometimes even in the films of other filmmakers. Look for example at François Truffaut, on the Domicile Conjugal metro platforms.
But who is Monsieur Hulot, anyway? A funny guy. A distracted stroller. A man who is both curious AND distant from everything. He wanders on foot or on a solex in settings that sometimes evoke Epinal France and sometimes the plastic and contemporary arts . He is an involuntary poet, always between two worlds and therefore often a little out of touch with the present.
“Mon Oncle” is Jacques Tati’s third film. For his second on-screen adventure, Monsieur Hulot leaves vacation to discover the modern world, factory work, technology entering homes step by step and the rise of urban planning in the Paris region. In this sense, it's almost a documentary and it's fascinating.
Image courtesy Ronald Grant Archive / Mary Evans
For those interested in design, architecture or interior decoration , Jacques Tati's films will be a gold mine. If you also appreciate subtle humor, work on sound and silence, don't throw any more away: this cinema is made for you.
Monsieur Hulot, however, would not be Monsieur Hulot without his inimitable style. It's even one of my favorites from this selection of raincoats at the cinema.
First the main clothes and accessories: a hat, a pipe, an umbrella and a beige raincoat, a bit crumpled , stained here and there. It announces the raincoat of the future Lieutenant Columbo, except that it is worn here with more style.
It is a piece that breathes life and accident, a keepsake of events: an essential, literally and figuratively. It has the shape of a Mac, a perfect cut that widens at the bottom, a checkered lining . It might be a Burberry , or it might not.
In any case, Monsieur Hulot never parts with it - he may even sleep with it. Personally, if I had to purchase a coat of this type, I would go precisely towards this one, or at least towards something close to it.
Beyond the piece, the central element of his outfit, there is also everything else: a white shirt and a red/burgundy bow tie at the top, gray pants that are too short and brown suede derbies at the bottom .
The great little detail here: striped socks , which give the whole thing something completely magical and nicely offbeat. Too much perhaps? Readjust your clothes and fasten your seat belts, we're heading back to Hollywood and its stars.
4. Trench and Mac combined
“ Diamonds on the Couch ” (Blake Edwards, 1961)
Who has never dreamed of living in Holly Golightly's New York building? We discover this colorful young woman in the early 60s. She is played by Audrey Hepburn, dressed by Givenchy and tends to make all the men around her go crazy.
Sixty years later, she still embodies a certain idea of feminine elegance . As for the men of the time, let's say that they are willingly paternalistic, old fashioned and that they invariably wear blue or gray suits .
“Diamonds on the Couch” recounts the dreams, the anxieties and the meeting of the young woman with a writer who no longer writes but who still pretends. This is our first foray into the world of director Blake Edwards and we'll return.
In the meantime, among Audrey Hepburn's sartorial marvels, we discover a cream trench that has become iconic . He is as if frozen in an unforgettable and hopelessly romantic scene, which takes place in the streets of New York, in the pouring rain.
The music we hear everywhere is by Henry Mancini and the song is called “ Moonriver ”: Audrey Hepburn plays it at one point on guitar and in a gray sweatshirt , from the window of her apartment. We almost forget that his partner on screen also wears the raincoat.
His name is George Peppard, and he doesn't yet say the now cult phrase " I love it when a plan goes off without a hitch ." Long before he was a television star, George Peppard burst onto the screen here: it was even the role of his career.
What is his style and what is he wearing? He's not that different from the other men in the film. Impeccable hairstyle with side parting, same art of the tailor-made suit with alternating blue and gray . However, he has his own little tricks.
Chelsea boots for example, or even shirts with large button-down collars , a beige sleeveless cardigan and more generally a certain tendency to wear mismatched suits . For example, a gray herringbone blazer with navy pants, and vice versa.
His raincoat is beige. It's just like the Mac you carry folded up on your arm when it's too hot or not raining. It's far from trivial: it's the first thing attached to this item of clothing.
Are you hesitating between the Mac and the trench coat? Keep in mind the silhouette of George Peppard and let's see ourselves in the next film: you will see that the trench coat is perhaps a bit less "consensual" to wear.
5. The trench coat and the armor
“ Private life ” (Louis Malle, 1962)
A man, a woman, a story about a raincoat. All this has something of déjà vu. Let's also be honest: “Private Life” occupies a relatively minor place in Louis Malle's filmography. The scenario is not great, the direction lacks rhythm and character. We may prefer “Ascenseur pour l’échafaud” or “Le Feu Follet”. And in a completely different genre, “The World of Silence”, with Cousteau. But…
... Failing to be a great film with and about Brigitte Bardot
We saw it in the previous film: the raincoat is far from being reserved for men. Like Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot also wears a beige trench-style raincoat here. For those who still doubt it, this color works wonders with blonde and sky blue . This is one of the rediscoveries of the film. There are a few others.
Credit Getty Images
Paris, Geneva, Italy. It's about a fashion and cinema star that the public and certain press have never let go of. Since “La Dolce Vita” by Federico Fellini, these journalists hungry for scoops have had a name: the paparazzi. They will spare nothing for the character of Brigitte Bardot.
On the other hand, you will quickly note that her outfits are still inspiring today, and that we can possibly find traces of them in contemporary women's collections , at Sezane, Balzac Paris and many others. Fashion icon?
Exhausted, lost, tormented, the young woman takes refuge in song , in the folds of her raincoat, solitude and/or the arms and locker room of Marcello Mastroianni . This is an interesting if relatively common find.
As a couple, we sometimes swap clothes. For example, it's an opportunity to appreciate the mix of silk pajamas, a formal shirt, a beautiful knitted jacket, or even a set of suits. We have already seen that it also works the other way.
For the rest, our man's wardrobe is resolutely classic, Italian style. Shoes, pants with pleats and volume, shirts, polo shirts and blazers with wide lapels . Marcello Mastroianni excels in this area. It's even a reference.
No wonder he also wears the hat and the trench coat . Here it has a side that is both enveloping and airy, thus significantly modifying the morphology of its wearer. It is light armor . A sort of refuge, in short. It is also a relatively imposing piece due to its marked style.
This is precisely what can be annoying or surprising if you don't want to be overwhelmed by the style of your outerwear. However, this is also one of the attractions of the trench coat: what other piece of men's wardrobe can boast of being both as stylish and secure ? If this piece intimidates you, opt for a Mac instead, which is sleeker and easier to carry.
6. The trench coat and the polar fleece
“ The Doulos ” (Jean-Pierre Melville, 1962)
Return to calm. It is the world of night, of film noir and its French adaptation. No one ever really seems to sleep at Jean-Pierre Melville's house. One certainty, however: the trench coat and more generally the raincoat are inseparable from his cinema .
They are part of the furniture of the thriller, in the same way as revolvers, night clubs, jazz and beautiful American cars. It's a little more than just clothes, too.
Shoes, felt hats and suits and ties are invariably out. And of course, the first image that comes to mind about Melville's trench coat is that of Alain Delon's characters in “Samouraï” or “Le Cercle Rouge” : rest assured, if they don't are not part of this team, they have their dedicated Reel here .
To go further, why not focus instead on a less publicized classic? “Le Doulos” for example, a film which tells the story of a man freshly released from prison. He tries his hand at a revolver, returns to jewelry thefts, and all this, as you might suspect, will end badly.
It's almost a mystery film as the characters are ambiguous: "you have to choose: die... or lie?" we are told at the entrance.
The law, morality, an aesthetic which is put in place and will take its full measure in the following films: “Le Doulos” is an interesting adventure in more than one way.
Take for example the style of the characters: trench coats and raincoats everywhere , as if they were the last item of clothing on earth . It's a classic of Melville's dress code and it implicitly tells the story of his connection with American cinema.
You will find the trench coat on the back of Jean-Paul Belmondo or even more inspiring on that of Serge Reggiani: we are among the men who dress for every occasion and these silhouettes obviously recall another: that of Humphrey Bogart.
Credit: Getty Images
For raincoats, we always think of pioneering brands: Aquascutum , Mackintosh . But today we would perhaps also go to Grenfell or Husbands to rediscover this very special spirit.
While waiting at Serge Reggiani, the style is terribly successful and it even overshadows the star Belmondo. It has as much to do with an attitude as with wearing clothes: the drape of a shirt or a long-sleeved polo shirt tucked into the pants, the knot of a tie, the trench coat at night which envelops it under the light of the street lights.
You will definitely fall under the spell of his long-sleeved polo shirt, or even his burglar outfit which includes both a military-inspired jacket and a pair of sneakers .
As is often the case with Melville, clothing is synonymous with codes and troubled boundaries . But maybe you suddenly want a little more light. For a lighter trench coat with less history, go to the next point.
7. The trench coat and its clichés
“ The Pink Panther ” (Blake Edwards, 1963)
How can you resist the charm of the cuts and colors of clothes from the 60s? When Inspector Clouseau appeared on screen for the first time in 1963, it was an immediate success.
The film is funny, served by animated credits and an inspiring wardrobe. His little musical style has become cult and if that year, Blake Edwards was a fulfilled director, the “Pink Panther” series was only just beginning.
Clouseau is a funny guy played by Peter Sellers. He wears a cream-colored Aquascutum trench coat all day long, but he can just as easily switch to a navy-colored Mac if the situation requires it. Very often, it is linked to a blunder or an accident.
Other distinctive signs: brown suede leather shoes at times and always a mustache, gloves and a tweed hat which doesn't quite manage to make you forget that of Sean Connery in Indiana Jones .
The main thing is elsewhere: there are plenty of raincoats, and the costumes are all quite attractive.
Against all odds, Jacques Clouseau is a police inspector. He is in charge of protecting a rare diamond
Peter Sellers as Inspector Clouseau, here in “When the Inspector Gets Tangled” by Blake Edwards. (Photo by Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images)
From Lieutenant Columbo to Inspector Gadget , the raincoat is, as it were, included in the detective's outfit . It's like that, there's nothing we can do about it, some clichés are hard to resist and that can be a problem when you want to try out certain pieces.
Other persistent legends claim that the raincoat is the favorite coat of businessmen, old gentlemen, and even men and women who wear nothing underneath.
Maybe that's why there's something a little intimidating about this item of clothing. How to overcome clichés? Perhaps quite simply by reappropriating this piece step by step, in all humility and from our contemporary wardrobe .
In the meantime, if Clouseau's job title sounds serious like that, don't be fooled. He may wear sharp suits and impose a certain elegance , but our man mostly makes a series of blunders and eccentricities.
It is therefore perfectly capable of combining a trench coat and pajamas . It's a bit surprising but the room allows for it, like most long coats and you might do the same thing on the weekend.
That being said, the pajamas are very beautiful, and the knits too
8. The Mac and British elegance
“ The Evil Skull ” (Freddie Francis, 1965)
Let’s set the scene for a moment. Wind, hooting, creaking things and a cemetery perched on a hill. Is this a Beatles song ? No. But in terms of sound, everything goes: the cat, the owl, the dog in the distance and maybe even the dentures of the guy digging in his corner.
The atmosphere is 19th century, it is obviously night and this opening is typical of English horror film productions from the 50s and 60s. Be careful though: the special effects are vintage here and it's mainly about style, atmosphere and shrill music.
“The Evil Skull” is precisely a gem of the genre: directed by a regular at Hammer and Amicus studios, the film brings together Christopher Lee and Peter Cushing – two of the finest custodians of the British style of their time .
Since the end of the 1950s, the two men have regularly shared the posters of these small specialized productions. Frankenstein and Dracula have no secrets for them. And to make matters worse, they have a certain talent for dressing.
If you like fantastic atmospheres, old grimoires AND English clothing style , for example take a look at “Dracula’s Nightmare” or “The Hound of the Baskervilles”
Copyright: Courtesy Everett Collection SIJA055 EC121
“The Evil Skull” features two well-dressed London collectors. Their thing is the ancient and the occult. Seen from the outside, however, no black capes on the horizon. It's even more of a festival of old-fashioned formal outfits: shoes, suits, tuxedos, ties, sweaters, cardigans and other coats .
The two men will cross paths with the skull of the Marquis de Sade and beyond its historical interest, it is above all endowed with strange evil powers. This is not the only eccentricity of this adventure.
If, for example, you are attracted to it, you will find it on Peter Cushing's gloves and ties. He also wears white shirts under thin V-neck sweaters, navy or gray pants with nice volumes - and also dressing gowns like you no longer see and a burgundy suit.
For the exterior: a beige Mac, in the purest tradition of the genre . He is the very image of the English gentleman. You can forget the hat, the umbrella and keep this find: the beige raincoat worn with white and yellow works wonders.
But the Mac has other assets: its modernity for example, which will be expressed better than ever in the following film: it's another legend, at least as tenacious as Humphrey Bogart's trench coat and you know it . Necessarily.
9. The Mac and the blue sky
“ Bullitt ” (Peter Yates, 1968)
Another cinematographic and musical genre, another clothing style, same type of piece. The magic of clothing is that it can be interpreted differently depending on the culture, age, character or body shape of the wearer.
Steve McQueen is American, Peter Cushing English. Between the two: an ocean, a style and almost 20 years apart. However, they have in common that they make films and cultivate a certain art of dressing. The raincoat is a good rallying point here .
If Steve McQueen does not have a monopoly on good taste in terms of fashion in the cinema, it is very difficult not to return to it from time to time, simply for the pleasure of seeing his characters and their exciting outfits . Having left too early, we would have loved to see him combine his style into old age.
What new gimmicks , what secrets, what outfits could we then have discovered? If we will unfortunately never experience this pleasure, there are still a handful of witness films to watch again. For example this classic from the late 60s directed by Peter Yates, a jack of all trades filmmaker
(Photo by Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty Images)
“Bullitt” is almost a textbook case of cinema style . As a reminder, we had already looked at it through the turtleneck sweater . For those who have not yet taken the plunge of watching, this new Reel is another opportunity to try it.
To summarize: if the Mac-like raincoat had only one on-screen ambassador , it would probably be Steve McQueen. Among the other competitors in this article, we could also cite George Peppard, Peter Cushing or, as we will see later, Morgan Freeman.
In the meantime, Steve McQueen plays here an honest and not very talkative lieutenant assigned to the sunny streets of San Francisco. Between political pressures and a chase in a Ford Mustang, his character is put to the test. However, he remains invariably stoic, and above all never loses his keen sense of dressing . The two are perhaps linked.
This is evidenced by his calm and assured manner of approaching the port of the Mac. It's a pretty piece: raglan sleeves, beige color, clean style, the kind that can go with everything , for example a hoodie or a pair of sneakers.
However, this is not the path chosen by Steve McQueen. Here the raincoat adds a little light to an otherwise very solid outfit, composed of brown tweed, gray flannel and navy knit . On the feet: brown suede like Monsieur Hulot, although here they are desert boots.
If all of this is perfect, you will notice how the beige mac goes with a beautiful blue sky. These clothes are not reserved for the rain and you can imagine that they are not only beige either. The proof ? Next movie!
10. The trench coat and black
“ The Law of the Middle ” (Mike Hodges, 1971)
Generic . It's a very deceptive music, rather colorful and funky. There is, however, a little something of “Bring in the accused” about it. And “Germinal” too, for the very black soot and shades of gray side.
In fact, the images that you will discover are of a very dark tone: gloomy, dull, icy, with violent wind and grayness in your eyes and ears, to believe that the sun has definitely gone away. .
The weather is lousy in “La Loi du Milieu” and this weather fits quite well with the character of its characters. Over the years, this story has become cult. It is a modest film, a little apart, resolutely English, rediscovered late and since celebrated largely for its clothing .
We've already started here , but we could review every Michael Caine movie, even the bad ones, and find all kinds of fashion inspiration – suits, mesh, even RAF uniforms
(Photo by Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images)
For the haircuts, it's something else but let's perhaps put the context a little: “La Loi du Milieu” was filmed in the early 70s
It's a sordid story of revenge. The film is harsh, with a documentary approach and unsympathetic characters. Michael Caine's is called Jack Carter and he is a killer, misogynist and completely indifferent.
This is the first information to remember. The second is that he is particularly well dressed and you therefore see the full complexity of the problem appear. How to separate style from monster?
The reflection promises to be interesting, and the film will perhaps make you very uncomfortable.
Because get this: the only desirable thing about Jack Carter is his clothes. His three-piece navy suit, for example, tailor-made and with mohair inside , has made more than one dream. Some even place it among the most beautiful costumes in cinema .
We could also stop at his Turnbull & Asser shirts or his Rolex watch . But in reality, the most fascinating thing here is the room which envelops or hides all these wonders from outside eyes.
It's a black Trench from Aquascutum and is also one of the most famous in cinema. It doesn't matter that the film could otherwise be perceived as minor: it has its own style and its sense of style is something entirely unique.
It's hard to see what other piece of outerwear could fit this disaffected character so well. It's the perfect piece. And if there are not many who have worn it so well in black , there are others who have been able to bring another kind of supplement to it: love, passion and great feeling. Come on, a hint here . See you soon !
11. The trench coat, the love of women and clothing
“ César & Rosalie ” (Claude Sautet, 1972)
Not long ago, Valérie Leulliot from Autour de Lucie told us about her love of Perfecto and the “ styling of women in Claude Sautet's films ” And indeed, there would be many lessons to be learned from it, if only on the only period 1970-1974.
What can we say, for example, about “César & Rosalie”, a Claude Sautet vintage 1972 and worn by Romy Schneider, Yves Montand and Sami Frey?
That we probably won't stop at just women's fashion. Because it turns out that men's styling is also inspiring, and that there is some well-worn trench in it.
If you ever prefer the beige Mac, you can always jump back in time and rewatch “Nelly & Monsieur Arnaud” - the character to observe is none other than that of Michel Serrault.
“César & Rosalie” is the rather incredible and desperate story of a menage a trois between Paris, Sète and Noirmoutier and there would probably be enough to make an entire Reel on the style of Romy Schneider in this adventure.
The costumes are by Yves Saint Laurent , it's always magnificent and no one has, for example, forgotten the printed silk chiffon dress which appears in the first quarter of an hour.
By the way, she also wore the trench coat in the cinema but the real subject here is none other than that worn by Yves Montand. And of course this silhouette will be familiar to you .
Credit Imago
Everything that relates to the trench coat in the cinema refers in one way or another to the first point addressed in this Reel. This is, relatively speaking, the origin of the world and it is not crazy to think that all men once had in mind to have the style of Humphrey Bogart .
However, Yves Montand has nothing to envy him. The garment seems natural on him, like a second skin . For example, take a look at Melville’s “Le Cercle Rouge” or his other contribution to Claude Sautet’s cinema in “Vincent, François, Paul and the others”. Like Philippe Noiret, he is a man of taste in clothing.
Her outfits in “César & Rosalie” are no exception to the rule. For example, he wears the beige trench coat with a superb navy striped suit . A knitted hat or tie. A beige sweater and a brown velvet blazer .
Unsurprisingly, the entire film exudes a love of women and clothing . Needless to say, Yves Montand was a seducer . There is something irredeemably haunting about his style and the film as a whole.
This is perhaps due to its images, its acting, perhaps also to the music of Philippe Sarde or the reading of Romy Schneider. Like “Le Doulos” by Melville or “Mon Oncle” by Jacques Tati, “César & Rosalie” is able to nourish some new obsessions .
12. The trench coat and Alsatian inspiration
“ Three Days of the Condor ” (Sidney Pollack, 1975)
Style, always style. How about a little trip on a moped and music in the streets of New York to continue? Our new story begins partly like this. Sometimes you have to give the action time to develop.
Meanwhile, things are going on behind the scenes: something fishy is brewing, and it won't be enough to be well dressed to get out of this future mess. Our man on a moped has arrived at his destination. He's late, but he has crazy charm so we forgive him almost everything.
We have already mentioned the cinema of Sidney Pollack in Reel, notably through the parkas and the turtlenecks , and you probably already know that he counts among his favorite actors a man named Robert Redford.
If you've ever seen "Three Days of the Condor," chances are you've fallen in love with the outfit he wears at the opening of the film. Otherwise, here's a little reminder: gray tweed blazer, knitted tie and chambray shirt, small navy sweater, Levi's 517 and brown boots . It’s incredibly effective and the festival doesn’t stop there.
Filmed in the mid-70s, “Three Days of the Condor” is a story of conspiracy and espionage. It’s also a potential source of inspiration for your future outfits.
Copyright: Paramount AF Archive Mary Evans 12449136
The Condor is none other than Robert Redford: a CIA agent who put his finger in the wrong place. Hunted by a strange character and his team, he crosses paths with Faye Dunaway. The rest, you will discover in this very solid film by Sidney Pollack.
In the meantime, what interests us today is a shadowy character. It's difficult to summarize the extraordinary career of Max Von Sydow.
He has appeared in many classics by Ingmar Bergman, played the exorcists in William Friedkin and even the Three-Eyed Crow in the series Game Of Thrones. Suffice to say that he wore all kinds of styles and costumes .
Here he plays the mysterious Joubert, a man of contracts who is presented as Alsatian. Through him, we discover new clues that are, to say the least, enlightening on how to wear a trench coat.
Maybe it's a Burberry here and he's wearing it with a brown turtleneck, velvet blazer and gray pants . At the very bottom of brown suede desert boots . And for accessories: a strange Trilby inspired by Alsace or Tyrol, a pair of glasses and burgundy leather gloves .
At this point, you may remember our Lunar Pierrot and his striped socks. Monsieur Hulot was definitely right about the suede leather shoes.
Generally speaking, we can say that the raincoat goes wonderfully with characterful materials: tweed, velvet, suede leather . The examples gleaned here and there in this article point partly in favor of this direction.
But does this mean that the raincoat does not support technology or modernity? The answer can be found in point number 17.
13. The trench coat and the Mac, friends for life
“ Mikey & Nicky ” (Elaine May, 1976)
“Ah, I forgot…”. You may have noticed that we've been talking about him for a while now. His presence hovers, inevitably. His clothes more than his old car, although it's all part of a whole.
You of course know Lieutenant Columbo and his very crumpled beige raincoat . He made Peter Falk so famous that we sometimes forget the movie actor.
However, there are many treasures in his filmography, starting with the films shot with his friend John Cassavetes and we talk about them a little here , through a unique piece of terry cloth . And then there is “Mikey & Nicky”, not really a UFO but certainly a real shooting star.
It's a gripping, tense film, filmed as close as possible to its characters. They are played here by Peter Falk and John Cassavetes in formal and not necessarily well-ironed outfits.
This proximity of the gaze is, among other things, a delight for the clothing lover looking for details on cuts and materials. Everything here is to be found on the dressy side, and preferably at the end of the evening .
Let me tell you, you won't see films like this every day. And that's so much the better: among the pleasures of the film buff, coming across a masterpiece and rewinding the thread. For a clothing lover, it's the same story.
There is no need to describe the joy and excitement when the two come together: the style and the staging are possibly the Holy Grail of Bobine. My latest experiences of the genre: the cinemas of King Hu and Ida Lupino.
So of course, if Elaine May's other films are as moving as this one, there is no doubt that we have here something other than a forgotten nugget of American cinema from the 70s. We will perhaps come back to it .
In the meantime, it is the story of an exhausting and on edge friendship, both tender and violent, which reveals itself at night and full of tension until the early hours.
The two men each have their own raincoat, and it's funny to see how clothing can also be a vector of a fraternal message . Do you usually lend your clothes to your friends or is it an impossible and unimaginable mission?
Here the motive is more paranoid than anything else, but the final image remains the same: a deep friendship, which even shares style . It's not too difficult though: there is no big stylistic gap between the two men.
John Cassavetes wears a beige trench coat, an ecru shirt and a suit without a tie , Peter Falk a tie, a gray double-breasted suit and a navy Mac . The exchange of blazers and coats takes place before our eyes, in the corridors of a building. It's not far from being the most moving scene in the film and it's profoundly magical.
14. The trench coat and workwear inspiration
“ New York 1997 ” (John Carpenter, 1981)
“Brain” is an enigmatic character. It's just a nickname. His real name is Harold Hellman, which doesn't give much clue as to what's in store. What is he doing in this story?
It all starts with a refrain . John Carpenter is not only a filmmaker, he is also a musician and it is often difficult to get rid of his gimmicks. At the beginning of the 1980s, “New York 1997” invents a nightmarish future for America: Manhattan is a prison and style is now a matter of second-hand clothes and recycling for part of the population.
We can see a kind of punk heritage in the clothing , and a world that has become jungle everywhere else. We left John Carpenter with Kurt Russell appearing three years earlier as Elvis. He reappears in the guise of the outlaw Snake Plissken.
He's a different kind of King, a modern-day pirate with rock and military inspirations . The middle finger, however, always has its limits when it comes to the administration: it is quickly sent against its will to the rescue of the President of the United States and is about to meet our famous “Brain”, a very strange character. played by Harry Dean Stanton.
We already knew that the latter combined military fashion and the Hawaiian shirt like no one else. Here we discover that her style talents don't stop there.
(Photo by John Springer Collection/CORBIS/Corbis via Getty Images)
For those who can no longer wear suits and formal outfits, his character will act as a messiah: his interpretation of the raincoat flirts with workwear , and it's like a wind of freshness that suddenly blows on the old grimoires from Burberry and others.
His is downright filthy, unbelted and completely rumpled . You wouldn't want one, even second-hand. And yet, something here emerges as an illumination. Underneath: simple pants and shoes, a light henley in the same condition as the main piece, and above all a scarf tied around your neck.
It's true: there's something irremediably western about this outfit. The scarf could also be replaced by a patterned bandana . And if the horse does not seem to be an option in the disenchanted world of "New York 1997", this relaxed and slightly offbeat vision of the raincoat holds a special place in the ocean of formal outfits usually associated with this piece.
The future will prove Brain's character right. And since we're talking about the future, maybe it's time to take a look. See you in… 2019!
15. The trench coat, painting and design
“ Blade Runner ” (Ridley Scott, 1982)
Harrison Ford, his legendary roles and clothes. There is something for everyone: Han Solo in military uniform and extreme cold parka , Indiana Jones and his Alden boots, or even Rick Deckard and his retro-futuristic ensemble . He is a police officer and tracks down androids called “replicants” in a Los Angeles projected in 2019.
Almost everything has been said about “Blade Runner”. If we no longer count the ultra-detailed reviews and analyzes of Ridley Scott's film, it is because it has influenced in one way or another everything that has existed within its extended scope since 1982.
Let us cite in bulk science fiction cinema of course, animated films, video games, fashion, advertising and many other things. It is also possible that “Blade Runner” has brought the trench coat back into fashion .
The film has its ultimate fans and detractors. 40 years and numerous revised editions later, it is clear that “Blade Runner” still remains faithful to the post. What we perhaps remember most: its visual and sound atmosphere.
In this sense, it is almost a film of total decoration. All you have to do is take a look at this ambient , nocturnal and invariably rainy Los Angeles of the future. The trench obviously has its place here .
And then there is the music, which couldn't be more conducive to listening on repeat . Not to mention the presence of the future Lieutenant Castillo from “Miami Vice”, his yellow vest and more generally his incredible costume sets.
(Photo by Stanley Bielecki Movie Collection/Getty Images)
This universe does not come entirely from nowhere: you have to look at Philip K Dick, Fritz Lang or even film noir and its eternal silhouette : the Rick Deckard of “Blade Runner” owes a lot to Humphrey Bogart and it's no coincidence that he also wears the trench coat.
Does this mean that Harrison Ford's character is also a replicant , a clone of a human being? This is one of the hypotheses and the fact is that “Blade Runner” asks a number of questions about humanity. Look at the rather unique character of Rutger Hauer, here finally celebrated internationally after having, among other things, illuminated the so-called orange period of filmmaker Paul Verhoeven.
If Rick Deckard's trench coat is a nod, you won't really find an equivalent to this brown-colored piece apart from the few cosplay reproductions that exist here and there. The costumes created by Michael Kaplan and Charles Knode are partly inspired by the 1940s .
The trench is worn here with an almost pictorial vision of the costume. Take a look if you can take a look at this unique, colorful and ultra graphic pants belt, shirts and ties .
If the costume he wears during the Voight-Kampff test is the subject of a mini-cult among enthusiasts, let's remember for our part this interesting marriage of shapes and colors. Like an invisible bridge between clothing, design and painting.
16. The trench coat and nostalgia
“ Indiscretion ” (Pierre Lary, 1982)
Be careful, rarity. It's likely that no one remembers "L'Indiscretion." It's a strange film, at the crossroads of fantasy, detective and comedy, shot in the early 80s. We can see a total nonsense, a brilliant UFO, or even a bit of both at the same time.
We don't know much about this film. Its director learned the trade from Luis Buñuel, among others, and subsequently did relatively little filming on his own. As for clothing, there are some quite surprising and old-fashioned pieces like a chunky knit sleeveless cardigan .
On the other hand, the presence of Dominique Sanda in the casting is a happy sign from heaven: Bresson, Visconti, Bertolucci, none of this can be an accident.
Here Jean Rochefort is a technician on a drilling platform. It's neither an episode of "X-Files" nor a David Lynch film, but for a moment, it's still possible to dream a little.
Our man wears the helmet and the white coat. He jogs there too, in traditional mustaches and a zipped hoodie . As you may know, the actor has often worn a raincoat in the cinema.
On vacation in Paris, he rents an apartment with exotic decor and soon discovers that he can hear his building neighbors from his radio. A dark story is emerging.
A mysterious woman enters the scene and in a beige trench coat. She also wears a beret and a blue scarf . An equally strange neighbor played by Jean-Pierre Marielle soon begins to experience the same things as Jean Rochefort.
Among these things, there is in particular clothing. When they meet, one is wearing a beige duffle coat and the other is wearing a raincoat of the same color .
Two styles then clash: sky blue shirt, ecru trucker sweater and slightly rustic style for one; white shirt, green blazer, brown velvet pants and patinated elegance for the other.
Then comes a scene where the two men in a hurry exchange a few small talk in the elevator. They both wear the suit, the briefcase and the trench coat and the raincoat under their arm . They look at each other amused, “the executive’s uniform”. It's funny and a little sad at the same time.
Through this fleeting image a world emerges where the raincoat was still commonplace in the French men's wardrobe. It is gradually disappearing in favor of parkas and other hooded coats .
If all this suddenly seems melancholic to you, like a reminder of the inexorable cycle of fashion, rest assured: the raincoat is still far from being buried .
It even appears where you don't expect it, in an almost streetwear style that has since largely taken its place in our wardrobes.
17. The trench and streetwear
“ Terminator ” (James Cameron, 1984)
It is a classic of American action and science fiction cinema. IF you've never crossed paths with the Terminator before, let's just say that he appeared in 1984 in the guise of Arnold Schwarzenegger and that he has only one goal: to eliminate someone named Sarah Connor .
Implicitly, James Cameron's film places a certain number of still current topics on the table: technology, artificial intelligence, the relationship with time and other existential themes.
That being said, there are also great shows, countless action scenes, a nightclub called TechNoir and outfits based on punk and/or military spirit and even a legendary Perfecto .
Make no mistake: in terms of clothing, Terminator also has something to say. It is a witness to the fashion then in vogue in America in the eighties , and we can also see an illustration of Jordan's post on going bare .
After all, when our main male actors complete their space-time journey in a burst of light, they arrive wearing no clothes. Thus stripped bare, their first mission is to find something to wear .
Copyright: Mary Evans AF Archive Orion Pictures 12459685
How to find your style in record time? According to Arnold Schwarzenegger and Michael Biehn, it takes flair, luck, opportunism and a certain sense of persuasion .
While the first goes shopping with a group of punks, the second steals his elastic waist pants from a homeless man . The rest is more or less a post-modern miracle: a military trench coat, a striped t-shirt and a pair of Nike Vandals sneakers .
Seemingly nothing, the character of Kyle Reese gives, through this improvised style tutorial, a whole new meaning to his role as a founding hero: in “Terminator”, he not only saves the world from machines, he propels the trench coat into a future that ultimately looks a lot like ours.
Because yes, the trench coat is no longer only worn with formal outfits. Walk around town, look at the few passers-by who still wear this piece. There are always a few busy men in trench coats and suits.
Rarer, we can also see people nostalgic for decades past, sometimes even fans of Sherlock Holmes.
And then we can also find outfits reinvented, among other things, from streetwear: jogging pants, joggers, sneakers, t-shirts and other sweatshirts with or without hoods . For those who are confused, an example here:
So, should we hand over the reins of the next Panache to Kyle Reese's character? Can you seriously invent a style in a few minutes? Questions that will perhaps find answers to the wise man who follows.
18. The double life of Jean-Claude (and the aware trench coat)
“ Double Impact ” (Sheldon Lettich, 1991)
Here's one that you certainly didn't expect to find here. And yet, you are not dreaming: Jean-Claude Van Damme also wears the raincoat, and imagine that he even has two or three interesting things to teach us about style .
Let's be clear: “Double Impact” is a B movie, not a masterpiece of cinema, and to appreciate it you must of course taste karate holds.
It is part of this series of films that can very seriously be described as a “golden period” for Jean-Claude Van Damme: “Bloodsport”, “Kickboxer”, “FullContact” or even “Coups pour coups”
What can we say about the scenario except that it tells the story of the revenge of two American brothers on the Hong Kong environment? We are in the early 90s and John Woo's cinema is still relatively confidential in our region.
On the other hand, Jean-Claude Van Damme has a keen nose in placing the heart of his story in Hong Kong, the stronghold of action and martial arts films. “Double Impact” is in its way an ambitious film: you will discover two Jean-Claudes for the price of one .
Because the twin brothers, Chad and Alex, are him. Suffice to say that it is extraordinary, if only because each of its characters adopts a different character and clothing style .
Copyright: Mary Evans AF Archive Columbia 12576944
Let's forget about cuts and materials for two minutes to concentrate on style suggestions. Our first Jean-Claude is the sensitive and delicate type. He also likes to dress, and preferably in color: pink, blue, green, ocher, purple, beige and brown for example. You will see him wearing pleated and volume pants, suede leather shoes and jackets and funnel-neck sweaters .
Our second Jean-Claude is the crude type and willingly grumpy. His style reflects it almost naturally: boots, t-shirt, jeans or combat-ready pants, trench-style raincoat . A little green, a lot of gray or black.
His stylistic moment of glory is a miniature ode to layering : military-style raincoat, dark shirt over what might well be a gray funnel-neck sweater . Surprising? Maybe not.
The funnel neck sweater is back here and there. If it lends itself particularly well to layering, we note that it is an interesting combination with the raincoat. If this option inspires you, you may soon be aware like Jean-Claude.
For the next move, review your classics and go to the library shelves, among other places.
19. The Mac and the white hair
“ Seven ” (David Fincher, 1995)
So here we are almost at the end of this Reel. You now see the picture a little better: if the raincoat can be worn in different ways and not just in the rain, it is not just the prerogative of businessmen and old gentlemen.
However, the character that we are now going to rediscover will show you if necessary how well this piece suits experienced men. Our new example is gray, composed, thoughtful and he probably dresses the same every day .
We have certainly known more joyful things than the imagination of “Seven”. But unlike Jean-Claude Van Damme, style is not just a matter of action . It can also underline a character, an atmosphere.
“Seven” is a pessimistic film: a police investigation that navigates between libraries and crime scenes, a serial killer inspired by Dante’s “The Divine Comedy”, two police officers who are completely opposed (physics, style, character traits) and little motives of joy or light.
There we find everywhere bodies and shapes in tatters, trash cans and loose rubbish, dull and sticky colors predominantly yellow or green. Yes, the film has something dirty and rotten, as if the spirit of evil had spread throughout the city. But everything is not so hopeless: Morgan Freeman's outfit, for example, seems spared by this phenomenon. She's reassuring, too.
Credit Getty Images
In the meantime, David Fincher's film is less a thriller than an autopsy film: we analyze and dissect the victims obviously, but also the city, America and its values, the end of the century... and a somehow the urban style of the late 90s – a nightmare ?
At the center of this story is a middle-aged man just a few steps from retirement. He likes reading and solving puzzles. Played by Morgan Freeman, he is obviously the complete opposite of his young partner played by Brad Pitt and who single-handedly synthesizes the spirit of the 90s.
Here Morgan Freeman's style is at the crossroads of the detective and the English gentleman . Some will say that it is an unchanging grandpa style, and perhaps its reassuring side comes from there. However, isn't what we discover in him a bit timeless?
Instead, imagine: a beige mac, wool, flannel or tweed blazers, a white shirt, a tie and suspenders, dress pants and most certainly a nice pair of shoes . You can also add a hat and a knit cardigan , a pair of glasses and a stack of books placed on a corner of the desk.
Is Morgan Freeman a bookseller or an investigator? It's a riddle in itself, depending on what he's holding in his hands: a book or a gun. If the man will probably pass on at the end of this infernal investigation, there is no doubt that his Mac will never retire : it is timeless.
GOOD. Here we are at the end of this story and of course, you certainly have many other cinematic raincoats in mind. While waiting to discover your inspirations in the comments, how about a poem to finish?
20. The trench coat, the poem and the guitar
“ The Limits of control ” (Jim Jarmusch, 2009)
How to conclude this epic through the trench coat, the mac and the raincoat at the cinema if not with a film itself in the form of a treasure hunt? This is the idea of this Reel: to offer you ideas for films and outfits, tracks to connect according to your rhythm and your desires .
Style is a fascinating work to do on yourself and your wardrobe - a long-term work and perhaps even without a real end.
To illustrate this, we could take the example of “The Limits Of Control”, a film by Jim Jarmusch which travels, encounters, experiences and does not stop.
It is thus a question of a man in a moiré costume who goes from town to town, from clue to clue, until the supposed end of his mission. It’s an eternal start again, we say to ourselves.
He could be a troubadour, except that his profession, we quickly understand, is far from being as bohemian and recommendable: he is a professional killer and he is played by Isaach de Bankolé, a regular in the cinema of Jim Jarmusch and by Claire Denis
His journey, of course, has something of a road trip, a riddle and a treasure map: there is not even much question of the purpose of his mission. He travels, waits, collects information, coded messages and boxes of matches.
His costumes are always impeccable, inspired by Tom Ford . Among his little habits: meditation, and drinking two coffees in separate cups.
Credit: Ph: Teresa Isasi-Isasmendi/ Focus Features/Courtesy Everett Collection Focus Features/Courtesy Everett Collection MCDLIOF EC140
It's always a bit mysterious, and the film has something that reminds us of many other filmmakers: Michelangelo Antonioni, Jacques Rivette, Alfred Hitchcock, Aki Kaurismaki...
Among her strange encounters, each has her own style and it sometimes resembles a fashion show: transparent raincoat and nudity for Paz de la Huerta, white and beige western ensemble including trench, boots and cowboy hat for Tilda Swinton, spirit denim and western for Gael Garcia Bernal or even costume for the faithful Bill Murray.
None of them, however, comes close to the aging character of John Hurt. We know nothing about him except that he wears a magnificent guitar in its case, a camel trench coat, a checkered scarf, a hat and dark glasses .
He's a character with something extra, and if there's only one thing we expect from this encounter, it's for him to take the guitar out of its case and start playing a few notes . This moment will never come.
So failing that, and since we must write an ending poem on this guitar , a classic by the Brazilian master Baden Powell. Just to tell you that the sun, summer , all that is not very far away. Until then, take the opportunity to try or wear a trench coat, mac or another raincoat a little longer . Up to you.
