Buying guide, our opinion on 50 watch brands

Giving a general opinion on a brand seems to be a simple, almost natural exercise: it is as easy to comment on a brand's products as to judge a person from the relative comfort of a café terrace. In fact, this is not an easy exercise as long as it is serious, even more so in watchmaking which is a complex industry.

How can we summarize in a few concise lines brands, some of which are several hundred years old? How can we provide a summary evaluation of brands whose collections can be extremely diverse, both in terms of history and design, finishes and movements?

Indeed, brands often have several ranges that have little to do with each other. In addition, some brands simply fit movements produced by third parties.

The casing of movements is both an advantage when the brand does not have the means or the desire to produce more or less accessible movements itself, but it represents a disadvantage in terms of industrial dependence.

Furthermore, the movements of these suppliers are not equal in terms of quality : ETA certainly has the best industrial control but it must be remembered that the same movement itself often has several "grades", i.e. say different finishes which have an impact on the qualities of a caliber.

Other brands produce or have started to produce their own so-called “manufacture” movements to ensure exclusivity. which often rhymes with very high prices . Often, brands box movements AND also offer in-house movements.

Finally, no brand is equal in after-sales service management. Some will cite a faulty handling on the part of the customer to avoid taking charge of a fault while others will build real competence in this area by offering impeccable service.

The question remains, however: how to find your way through all the watch brands , even with the help of search engines? In the multitude of official press releases everywhere praising the quality and designs of always “timeless” or “iconic” watches, how can we ensure the quality of the information coming from the media. Where watchmakers are themselves very often advertisers?

Can this mention of “Swiss Made” present both on a 500 euro watch and on a 50,000 euro model guarantee the quality of a watch? Can a young brand offer more interesting watches than an old brand?

If there are so many questions, it is because there is in fact a very strong demand for global feedback on watch brands.

So, it is time to provide an overview of watch brands with their strengths and weaknesses, a sort of compass for all those who want to find their way in the world of watchmaking . This compass is not fixed: it is evolving, new brands will complete this list, the evaluations of the brands listed will also be gradually updated by me as a reference for watches to reflect the developments of watch brands, in good and bad.

Even though I am very frequently asked for my opinion on watches, when Christophe and Benoît asked me to prepare a summary of good and bad brands , I admit that I was initially a little reluctant to do this exercise.

And certainly not for fear of reactions from brands which, it is easy to understand, do not like this type of exercise at all and even more so when it is published on a media which has a real audience and on which they have no socket.

Even more than in the clothing sector, watch brands want to control all communication as much as possible to the point of making the vast majority of content empty and tasteless as possible. Brands are also developing their own industry because, while demand is evolving structurally, they are still - for the vast majority - accustomed to the old paradigm of communication in watchmaking: the absence of transparency and the emptiness of words. .

I was reluctant because even with experience or insatiable curiosity, I must humbly admit that it is an exercise that requires knowledge and a view from above that very few have. I have had the chance to know people who have written entire books on watchmaking and who have a literally encyclopedic knowledge of watches: this commands respect and must lead to a form of humility.

But I also remembered that it is necessary to offer reference points, tools to help those who do not have the time to wait for years of experiences, tests, readings and exchanges. For me, it is mainly a question of demonstrating pedagogy aiming not to guide but on the contrary to give the audience the means to develop their own critical thinking and to ask themselves the right questions. I am not an “influencer” and in fact I do not appreciate this trend of “digital/social influencers”. Who says influencer says influenced and I reject this logic in its entirety.

But, in all this chaos of information of very diverse quality, we had to offer a tool to help us find our way. So here it is, even if it obviously remains tinged with a particular vision of watchmaking, a vision which is mine and which I fully embrace.

I wish you all a good reading.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Good for the myth of the Royal Oak . Bad for the prices. Dating from 1875, this independent brand was one of the pioneers in the rise of luxury sports watches.

The brand is largely dependent on its well-known model, and very comfortable to wear, the Royal Oak with a design marked by the 70s. It should be noted that the automation of workshops, synonymous with cost reduction, does not prevent not practice extremely high prices for steel, let alone models made of precious metal.

BALM AND MERCIER

Bad . Being part of the Richemont group, the brand is rather discredited despite a few rare classic models which may, possibly, be worth it. The brand has followed a trend towards outdatedness and, in this, it is not helped by Richemont 's decision to create a sub-brand - Baume - riding on the eco-chic trend and which targets a young audience who would be ready to pay a lot for an ordinary quartz watch... with an approach that seems to be more about marketing than ecology.

Some very recent new models from Baume et Mercier nevertheless leave some reasons for hope for the main brand.

BLANCPAIN

Good for its history. Bad for its topicality. As part of the Swatch Group , the brand has become quite a prisoner of the Fifty Fathoms model, the variations of which tend to pile up.

The brand is present in the luxury watch segment but its offering is seriously struggling to renew itself. Too bad because Blancpain has an interesting past - the brand was created in 1735 - and deserves new impetus.

BREGUET

Good for its long and fascinating history. Part of the Swatch Group , Breguet was a prestigious French brand, founded in Paris in 1775 by a visionary and a great inventor and innovator in watchmaking - Abraham Breguet. Since purchased, the brand has been relocated mainly to Switzerland. Today it occupies the Haute Horlogerie segment. The prices are stratospheric as are the brand's specific features: the materials and finishes belong to the world of ultra-luxury. On the other hand, the brand today certainly remains too conservative in the design of its new models, which are moreover variations of existing models than real new products.

BREITLING

Good for the SuperOcean Heritage II and chronograph movements. Bad for prices in general and in particular for nested models. The brand was independent until its recent acquisition by an investment fund.

Even if Breitling has surfed hard on the myth of aviation, the brand has still seen its wings melt a little and not just on the dials. Marketing spending on events and young, short-dressed hostesses to attract an aging audience seem decidedly from another age.

Many references offer large diameters and a design that is often out of fashion. Prices are high for watches often boxed with the exception of their chronographs which benefit from in-house movements.

If the attempt at renewal with the Navitimer 8 seems to be a complete failure, the brand has a nugget: the SuperOcean Heritage II in 42mm. Otherwise, there is some hope with certain chronographs from the Premier collection.

CARTIER

Bad. Part of the Richemont group, it is an old French luxury brand founded in 1847 in Paris, bought and since become Swiss. The brand can be interesting, regardless of the prices charged, if you are looking for a classic design like the Tank . Otherwise, it is better to move on, as some collections are really very uninspired. Even if historically Cartier developed jewelry AND watchmaking within it, the brand is now clearly moving towards jewelry.

DANIEL WELLINGTON

Bad. Young brand, more Chinese than Swedish, which has surfed the trend for minimalist watches and Nato bracelets (nylon bracelets). The prices seem reasonable, but in fact it is very expensive for very basic quartz. The bracelets are colorful but not worth much. The profusion of gold PVD coating hides the rest.

CASIO

Good for the G-Shock collection if you like clumsy, plastic watches that stand up to extreme sports. Bad if you don't like clumsy, plastic watches and if you don't do extreme sports. Regarding the other collections which returned to the forefront during a hipster interlude, it is better to leave calculator watches and other childhood relics in a drawer. Your wrist and your style will thank you.

DIESEL

Bad. Heavy and cheap, it's hard to do worse. Quartz watches sold way too expensive. It is best to keep your money and your wrist immaculate from these watch(s).

ETERNA

Good but be careful. Acquired by the Chinese group Cytichamp , Eterna has a rich history and a strong legitimacy as an innovative watch brand... but the brand nowadays seems to be falling from a height with a turnover that is paltry compared to its past. . If Eterna remains known for its KonTiki model, its current owner seems to abandon the brand and this leads to the question of its sustainability being asked from time to time. A sign of the times, the brand was seen on a famous private sales site…

FOSSIL

Bad. Please leave the fossils where they deserve to stay. A slight exception for connected watches which seem (a little) more interesting.

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

Good. Part of the Swatch Group and present in the high-end mechanical watch segment, it is one of the rare German brands to carefully avoid the overdose of minimalism/Bauhaus. The designs are classic but always with great originality in the dials, the latter benefiting from particular care.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Good. Part of Kering , this former brand is focused on Haute Horlogerie. Unfortunately, the brand has become far too discreet. Quality and excellent finishes are there but Girard-Perregaux is clearly waiting for more dynamic communication.

GLYCINE

Good. Brand that enjoys a good reputation: solid ETA movements and very reasonable prices. The brand is for a few years , very or even too present on a famous private sales site. For the moment, the brand remains a good entry point into mechanical watches, with in particular the Combat Sub models which are simple and effective, while the Airman models recall the brand's past in watches intended for aviation.

HAMILTON

Good. As part of the Swatch Group , Hamilton offers designs often consistent with the great history of the brand, from military watches to dress watches.

The improved ETA movements enjoy a good reputation linked to the integrated industrial policy of the Swatch Group . The brand occupies the entry-level segment in mechanical watches, which is a bit of a shame compared to the brand's American past, both in pocket watches and wristwatches. And not to mention the design of its watches, sometimes classic, sometimes incredible and beautiful at the same time as during its so-called “Space Age” period.

Hamilton is now a part of its owner's industrial mechanics, but its watches remain well positioned in relation to its market segment, which often makes it an ideal gateway to discovering mechanical watches. And keep them for a long time.

PORTHOLE

Good for the constant quest for innovation in watchmaking with the development, for example, of sapphire cases but bad in terms of prices. The products can be quite colorful and often have large diameters.

Being part of the LVMH group, the impression of a “bling bling” watch is rather anchored in people's minds… which does not hinder the commercial success of the brand, even if good taste is not necessarily systematic.

ICE-WATCH

Good. The Miyota quartz movements are correct for the price offered, the Ice-Watch pleases its audience who appreciate these colorful and unpretentious models.

Silicone bracelets are comfortable and, surprisingly, good quality for the price and service. On the other hand, be careful with the steel bracelet which does not benefit from the same care.

INVICTA

Bad. Not to be confused with another company also called Invicta which sells stoves. Former Swiss brand which now offers a huge collection of watches - several thousand different references (!) - 99.99% of which are in certain bad taste.

IWC

Good for its rich history and its watches equipped with in-house movements. Bad for its nested models, the prices and certain diameters that are largely out of fashion.

Being part of the Richemont group, the brand almost followed the destiny of its former ambassador: Kevin Spacey. The brand has largely built on its success in the 2000s.

Very present in dress watches and military-inspired watches, the brand offers very large diameters for some of its models.

IWC practiced a policy aimed at integrating and spreading the Sellita caliber more and more in its collections in watches priced at 5,000 euros, their entry level... This situation now seems to be reversed following the recent departure of Georges Kern, its former leader. To be continued.

JAEGER LECOULTRE

Bad. Part of the Richemont group, Jaeger-LeCoultre is an old brand - the result of the merger of Jaeger and LeCoultre - which bases its prices on its nickname of "the big house", a marketing name which today seems excessively pretentious in view of the prices and quality offered.

It is enough to observe with the naked eye from 30 cm away (and even more) the watches on display, and in particular the models equipped with complications, to get an idea…

JUNGHANS

Good for those who like minimalist design. After massively equipping the most unsavory units during the war, the brand moved towards the Bauhaus style thanks to designer Max Bill.

Like almost all German brands, Junghans is a casemaker of Swiss movements, ETAs in this case.

LAURENT FERRIER

Good. Independent and recent brand founded by the former creative director of Patek Philippe , the brand is of real interest in Haute Horlogerie. Very confidential, it favors targeted distribution and produces fewer than 200 watches per year.

The brand excels in the reinvention of the classic watch, less weariness and more beauty. The prices are those of luxury but their watches have real interest, particularly compared to better-known brands and with an older past.

PIL

Good. Historic French brand born in 1867. After producing quality watches for a long time while striving to make them accessible to the general public, Lip has had a very eventful history since the end of its golden age in the 1960s and its spectacular fall in the 1970s.

The name of the brand was taken up to face the worst before being gradually recovered over the last few years. Now part of SMB , we see a clear improvement at Lip with watches that enjoy a capital of sympathy associated with history and a move upmarket.

Current models offer good value for money at the entry level. The brand is preparing for 2019 the return of a historic caliber from the old Lip and produced in France: the R23. To be continued.

LONGINES

Good. Part of the Swatch Group , Longines is a Swiss watch brand with an incredible history, as rich as that of Omega. Born in 1832 and after having been one of Omega's direct competitors, the Longines brand was bought and then positioned in the mid-range segment.

The brand is largely based on its immense catalog of historic models that are both beautiful and efficient. The movements are unfortunately no longer those of the historic brand, ETAs replace them - of good quality certainly.

Beware of certain models like the Conquest VHP which are not very interesting. Also beware of the competition which seems to surround Longines from below with brands also offering ETA at competitive prices, and from above with watches equipped with modern manufacture movements for a few hundred additional euros...

Longines recently launched an update of its models by very gradually equipping them with new ETA movements modified to integrate extended power reserves (80 hours). And new references are taking off well, like the new HydroConquest. A recent effort on better quality bracelets is also worth noting.

MONTBLANC

Bad. It is instead recommended to buy a pen. Owned by the Richemont group, the brand communicates far too much about its seniority in watchmaking. This must be put into perspective and very strongly: the brand diversified late into perfumery, leather goods and watches. The design of the watches is sometimes very classic (Heritage Chronométrie models) and sometimes ordinary (TimeWalker models).

MOSER

Good. H. Moser & Cie, commonly known as Moser, is a brand that plays the 100% Swiss Made card to the fullest. Creativity and originality combined with a real attachment to quality, both in movements and in design, make this historic, yet rather confidential, luxury brand an excellent choice.

NIXON

Bad. Typically the brand that depends mainly on its marketing department to surf the current trends. Revolving around the fashion effect and the total lack of interest, it's expensive for what it is and there are much better elsewhere.

NOMOS

Good if you like Bauhaus. Bad if you don't like Bauhaus. With a serious and reliable brand appearance, Nomos enjoys a capital of sympathy among its customers, mainly linked to the attraction of a correct price in its beginnings and the use of a very minimalist design, if not sometimes simplistic. Ultimately, you have to be a fan of this style but, if this is the case, the brand remains a good option.

OMEGA

Good. As part of the Swatch Group , Omega occupies the high-end segment. The brand draws growth from its ownership group and with good reason: an ancient watchmaking history and one of the most beautiful in watchmaking.

Today, it offers exclusive new generation movements, very beautiful designs and good reinterpretations of historic watches.

The diversity of the collections is wisely organized and the brand has a strong identity through models that have marked the history of watchmaking. Omega is making notable efforts to compete with Rolex with, in addition to the points highlighted above, changes underway in the organization of its after-sales service.

The brand sometimes abuses the creation of series limited to several thousand copies. And the price of the famous Speedmaster Moonwatch is high when new, this model being a successful cash machine for the brand. Omega remains a balanced brand in its segment and particularly for its new models equipped with the Master Co-Axial movement.

ORIENT/ORIENT STAR

Good. Being part of the Seiko group, Orient represents a known entry point into mechanical watches due to very affordable prices while Orient Star, a little more "high-end" compared to Orient, allows for a price barely more high to benefit from more aesthetic watches.

The prices are very reasonable but be careful: the movements remain ultra-basic. A good introduction to mechanical watches for student budgets, with a preference for Orient Star which does not inflict the very unattractive Orient logo on its dials.

ORIS

Good for its vintage models available at attractive second-hand prices, but bad since the beginning of the 2000s. Independent brand which was previously very nice but which now displays prices totally uncorrelated with the quality of its offer. Very average Sellita movements, bronze watches which oxidize (thanks for the skin), oscillating weight covered in a red which would act as a signature but which looks more like a cover-up…

Some nice designs, but they can't bring the whole thing together and that's a shame. On the other hand, the manufacture caliber seems interesting, unlike the design of the watches that incorporate it.

PANERAI OFFICINE

Good & bad . The brand was in some ways a victim of its over-success during the 2000s: prices became disproportionate following a huge surge in labels. The brand is prisoner of its design which is also an integral part of its identity and it remains very associated with diameters of 45-47mm as well as a notable thickness.

Officine Panerai is trying to relaunch itself with the Due collection with a much more contained diameter (and thickness) of 38-42mm but offering water resistance unfortunately limited to 30 meters…

Among the positive points, in addition to a strong identity, we must note its partnership with Mike Horn who is - for once is really not customary in the sector - sincere.

PARMIGIANI FLOWER

Good. Owned by the Sandoz Foundation , Parmigiani Fleurier is relatively young in the sector. Founded in 1996 and present in luxury and Haute Horlogerie, the brand offers, via its entity Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, excellent manufacturing movements, which are also supplied to other brands such as Hermès.

Despite a development that is a priori a little too ambitious, production remains confidential compared to the heavyweights in the sector. The effort on design is real with 100% Swiss Made watches (except for the glasses and bracelets), which all present interesting originalities.

Certain models like the Toric Chronométrie and the Tonda 1950 are particularly successful. The prices are relatively “correct” compared to industry standards for this range, but you still have to count from 15,000 euros to access their watches.

PATEK PHILIPPE

Good. Prestigious watch brand, Patek Philippe is a UFO in the sector. It offers watches with a classic design with excellent finishes and perfectly mastered complications which make this brand a watchmaking holy grail for enthusiasts.

It's a UFO because - despite more than stratospheric prices - it is the only one to arouse an Irrepressible Watchmaking Compulsion leading to a wait of several years for certain watch orders. The brand is truly a special case in the world of watchmaking, in every way.

PIAGET

Good if you like extra-thin watches. Bad if you don't like extra-thin watches. As part of the Richemont group, Piaget occupies the luxury segment.

Problem: it is very rare, if not impossible, to find the slightest Piaget on the wrist of someone, even a very wealthy one, the brand certainly preferring the Chinese market to other markets or perhaps no longer managing to attract attention. want elsewhere.

RICHARD MILLE

Good if you want to be part of a club, literally and figuratively, of the “privileged”. Bad if you can't stand a marketing concept taken to an extreme level. The prices reach the Andromeda Galaxy and the design is very special to say the least. If Nadal remains an excellent tennis player, his clothing style at the start of his career is the counterpart of the design of the watches he wears. A positive aspect: an innovative side in the materials and techniques used.

ROLEX

Good. Rolex is currently the most famous brand and the first global watch brand that generates the highest turnover in the sector. As part of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, founded in 1905, Rolex has benefited from a long-term strategy which has focused on an essential aspect to the point of embodying it in the eyes of its customers: great reliability.

The movements are designed to be reliable, precise and flawless. The prices seem high, but surprisingly it is the brand that best manages to justify them: the second-hand prices are among the few to hold up, at least for the reference models.

The designs evolve gradually over time without revolution and embody classics, particularly in diving watches and chronographs. The brand has a key asset through its after-sales service which is like its products: impeccable.

The fact that the brand is the best known to the general public and the most easily identifiable leads to certain extreme reactions from time to time. Beyond the caricatures, the clientele is in reality very diverse: from the experienced watch collector to the young entrepreneur who wants to treat himself, from the individual in search of a social marker to the person who has patiently saved to afford a dream .

SEIKO

Good but be careful. The Japanese Seiko group actually brings together several different brands/ranges: Seiko5 (entry level), Seiko (entry and mid-range) and Grand Seiko (high-end) without forgetting Credor (luxury) and the Orient and Orient Star brands mentioned previously.

The reputation of the main brand Seiko for excellent value for money is from time to time exaggerated: some Seiko watches are interesting with appropriate prices, nothing more. The collections remain an immense shambles with watches that are sometimes correct, sometimes clumsy, not to mention the prices which go from 200 euros to 4,000 euros and without even including Seiko5 and Grand Seiko.

Recently, prices have been revised upwards for many models because the brand seems to want to repeat the Swiss practice by resorting to price revaluation, but 20 years late. With some sorting, there are still some interesting references.

SINN

Good & bad. This German brand had built a good reputation, but prices seem to be slipping lately. The movements have been Sellita for a few years... and 1,760 euros for example for a toolwatch with a Sellita SW200 movement does not represent good value for money.

Their watches can be interesting in terms of other characteristics, such as waterproofing and robustness.

STEINHART

Good. This young German brand offers unbeatable prices while integrating well-known reliable movements, but which sometimes suffer from hazards in supplies .

Perfectly correct for the price and equipped with good after-sales service.

A downside, however, in terms of design: the brand seems to be making savings at this level by aping many well-known models from a famous Swiss brand. The ersatz effect is not far away and must be taken into consideration.

STOWA

Good but be careful. This other German socketer enjoyed a good reputation for reliability, but certain recent price revisions have caused prices to jump. Added to the increasingly frequent use of cloned calibers such as Sellita or Soprod instead of ETA calibers. It seems difficult to justify higher prices by using less expensive calibers than their predecessors...

TAG HEUER

Good. As part of the LVMH group, Tag Heuer enjoys undeniable success. Prices are generally calibrated to offer a wide range of choices to its customers. A few manufacture movements sit alongside Sellita movements, there are a few models which are particularly successful such as the Autavia, which seems more interesting than the now too well-known Monaco worn during filming by Steve McQueen in the sequences of the film Le Mans .

TISSOT

Good. Part of the Swatch Group , this brand founded in the 19th century joined forces with Omega very early on. Today, the brand offers mechanical and quartz watches intended to occupy the entry level.

Previously benefiting from a less refined design than Hamilton, Tissot recently seems to once again offer a more interesting alternative at the entry level. The calibers are simplified and reliable ETAs.

YOU SLEEP

Good. Created by the founder of Rolex, the brand has in recent years made a strategic turning point: new quality movements to free itself from ETA calibers from above, solid cases, interesting bracelets and correct prices for its segment.

The brand is fully playing on the neo-retro wave and seems attentive to customer feedback and this has recently resulted in a reduction in the thickness of the watches with the very recent arrival of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight .

To be continued but be careful of the brand's quest for notoriety which relies on ambassadors who have little value for its watches...

ULYSSE NARDIN

Good. Part of the Kering group, the brand has long been THE reference for watches intended for the best navies of the time, particularly in terms of chronometers.

Positioned at the top of the range, Ulysse Nardin is of great interest in terms of excellent quality manufacturing movements. The brand went through a period where the design of some of its collections was quite unique, to say the least, particularly in the Freak and Executive collections.

But the brand seems to be making significant changes and is once again presenting more and more beautiful watches inspired in particular by historic models like the Diver Le Locle. Some models from the Marine and Classic collections are also successful. The brand certainly offers good finishes and excellent movements, but the prices generally seem rather high.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Good. Being part of the Richemont group, a brand established in Haute Horlogerie, prices reach new levels in the atmosphere.

It is one of the oldest brands with Breguet ( Swatch Group ). If the reference models remain excellent, pay attention to a few models which, despite their price, deserve a higher level of finish.

WILLIAM L

Bad. Example of the Kickstarter success which is based on classic designs but whose quartz movements are ultimately not very interesting.

Overall, it's expensive for what it is and its recurring appearance on a famous private sales site says a lot, even if the brand has recently sought to move upmarket (and in price) by offering a few models automatics equipped with Seiko movements. For information, the “1985” written on the dial is in fact the year of birth of the founder of the brand…

YEMA

Good recently but with some drawbacks. French brand born in 1948, Yema seems in many ways to have followed Lip's eventful trajectory.

After producing solid diving watches, some of which were intended for the Army, the brand found itself in the hell of watches provided free of charge in exchange for a subscription to magazines... It changed ownership several times and today it is the Montres Ambre group which holds the operating rights. Yema tried several times to relaunch itself in view of the attraction exerted by one of its period models. Without success.

The brand has relaunched again very recently and this time with greater success by being much more faithful to its past, but the quality can still be improved considering a price of 1,000 euros.

ZENITH

Good but be careful. As part of the LVMH group, the brand has seen better days. Zenith was one of the largest watch manufacturers along with Omega and Longines in the 1960s but its production has since been considerably reduced.

Zenith has suffered from a great change of management and this has resulted in collections that lack unity. The brand maintains great watchmaking interest, notably with its legendary El Primero automatic chronograph movement, and it remains very innovative with its new EP21. But , overall, you have to know how to navigate between successful models like the first reissue of the Cairelli or the Heritage 146 and models that seem to escape from Hublot like the Defy Lab .

THE CASE OF FASHION BRANDS WHO OFFER WATCHES IN THEIR COLLECTIONS

Overall, it's not interesting. Prices are even higher than in traditional watchmaking. Quartz is much more present and what is purchased is almost solely to have the name of the brand on the dial… A few exceptions like Hermès, the latter offering some interesting designs and some models are equipped with Fleurier movements but that remains exceptional.