How to dress when it rains?

Comment s’habiller quand il pleut ?
What jackets should you choose in rainy weather? Are all pants the same? What about shoes? We answer your questions!

The trees begin to lose their leaves and we wake up every morning watching the weather. Before falling even further into fall clichés, let's remember that it's a season that allows for many fantasies. Neither the heat of summer nor the cold of winter: we can exploit more textures, colors, styles and combinations in mid-season.

That said, there is one element to take into account: rain. That doesn't mean you can't be stylish! Bad weather is even conducive to some style effects, especially if we think about techwear.

The objective of the article is to review the different options available to you for dressing for rainy weather .

Water bottle spilled on mantle

© Credits: MadeMan

A construction business

We will all agree: the jacket is the first defense of a look against the rain. To carry out this mission, she must tick a certain number of boxes, regardless of her style .

We will therefore start by looking at the material. It is thanks to it that you will be well protected from water and kept dry... when it is treated for!

WHAT IS COATING?

For this first part, we will just talk about the coating technique, adapted to everyday street clothing.

The fabrics, even if they have a tight weave, have pores (interstices) too large to prevent water from infiltrating and impregnating the coat. The waterproofing technique by coating, widely used in ready-to-wear clothing, consists of coating the exterior face of the textile fiber with a mixture often composed of resin and vinyl . Imperceptible to the eye, the process fills the small gaps: the coat is then water-repellent, the water remains on the surface and literally slides over it.

Inexpensive, the coating is intended for daily use. On the other hand, it tends to slightly stiffen the fabric and, above all, to be sensitive to... water. HAS every time you get wet, the coating deteriorates: it should be renewed regularly, once a year or every two years depending on how you use it. It's up to you to decide when waterproofing no longer seems sufficient.

Coating

Overall, coating consists of applying a coating to a material. Having become water-repellent, raindrops will slide on it.

FINISHES ON WHICH YOU CAN'T OVERWHELM

In terms of editing, there is nothing really new compared to the usual criteria:

  • tight and regular seams,
  • homogeneous material, especially in the case of fabrics treated by coating ,
  • neat finishes.

The finishes are essential on a coat. Imagine a perfectly waterproof fabric, poorly assembled with crude seams: it would be terrible!

Water repellency

Beautiful water repellency, where drops remain well on the surface.

Finding the right rain jacket

The good news is that rain jackets can be found in a variety of styles, whether you're a fan of a three-piece suit or big, raw jeans.

Ready for a quick overview?

THE MACKINTOSH AND THE TRENCH

Let's start with the style we'll probably need the most: formal. It will allow us to go to the office, to meetings, in the evening, almost anywhere.

In this case, two options particularly stand out: the mackintosh and the trench coat.

The first is distinguished from the second by:

  • A material often lighter,
  • And a simple, non-crossed cut.
Difference mackintosh trench

On the left, a "mac" with its simple cut, traditionally revealing the first button. On the right, a trench coat, characterized by its crossed closure and belt.

These are two pieces designed for the rain , for which the length is also an asset. Originally, the mac was made entirely of rubber - since replaced by coated cotton -, which is where the trench was designed for the soldiers on the front.

Overall, the two are interchangeable in terms of style . However, in recent years, the trench coat has seen its image tarnished, which explains its rarity on the mid-range brand market. Only brands with a more sartorial style, and quite high-end, even luxury, still give it its letters of nobility.

Some find it too overly “seductive from the 2000s”. And mackintosh, more refined, lends itself to a wider range of looks, oscillating seamlessly between streetwear and dress.

But if it's the trench coat that makes your heart beat, don't deprive yourself !

Brown sartorial trench coat

Despite its decline over the last decade, the trench coat still remains the sartorial reference piece in rainy weather. (Trench Permanent Style x Private White VC )

To avoid any problems, prefer pieces to mid-thigh, no more . We can imagine a longer model, provided that we perfectly master the volumes and proportions. To be reserved for the most experienced.

For the color, choose according to your wardrobe:

  • The shades of beige are bright, very appreciable in rainy weather, and adapt to all seasons,
  • A little less common, khaki is nevertheless as easy to wear as the others, while slightly accentuating the military side,
  • Don't hesitate to opt for shades that change: burgundy, petrol blue or even a pretty faded Prince of Wales will bring a more sophisticated touch.

If you're not sure how to approach the trench coat, fearing you'll look like Inspector Gadget, here's a Mackintosh

  • Grenfell
  • Manifattura Ceccarelli
  • Peregrine Clothing
  • Junya Watanabe or White Mountaineering .

    However, you must have the budget (starting price around €600, up to more than €1000) and, above all, a certain mastery of this very particular style. The disproportion between the selling price and the perceived price is also a barrier.

  • Navy acronym jacket

    This Acronym jacket retails for €1,223.

    ON THE PANTS SIDE?

    When it comes to pants, it’s especially urban techwear that you should aim for. If you can imagine walking around with a PVC raincoat, it is immediately more delicate on the bottom of an outfit.

    So, if you want pants specially designed to have an urban look AND protect you from the rain, we recommend in order of budget: Bernard Zins , who also makes a technical model. Without forgetting our pants in Schoeller material . 😉

    Bernard Zins technical pants

    Techwear tailoring by Bernard Zins.

    Shoes that are not afraid of drops

    Top priority: avoid light suede leathers.

    Why only “clear”?

    Contrary to what myths say, suede is not afraid of water. At least, not in itself.

    On the other hand, it absorbs it very easily, which means that it will also absorb all the potentially coloring dirt that the water carries with it.

    However, if a simple maintenance (or even just a brush) can easily spruce up the appearance of your suede, removing a grayish stain of dirty water on a light suede can be longer and tedious.

    Good mouth
    © Navy suede sneakers: OK for the rain.
    Good mouth
    © Camel nubuck sneakers: NO in the rain.

    On the left, navy suede sneakers: OK for the rain. Right: camel nubuck sneakers: NO in the rain.

    Camel nubuck sneakers: NO in the rain.

    As for smooth leather sneakers, they can help out if necessary, but keep in mind that the colored leathers that make up sneakers often take less care than that of shoes: you can only clean them, and "recoloring" is not always possible . That being said, their rubber sole at least has the advantage of not being afraid of water.

    Note that in all cases, sneakers remain a backup solution, because their construction often exposes the foot and quickly ends up filled with water.

    Moonstar khaki sneakers

    There are still exceptions among sneakers, like these Moonstars which are particularly suitable for the rain. But the style is more divisive, and the product remains quite rare.

    Ideally, opt for boots that cover the ankles and minimize infiltration . Even better if you have oily leather, which will soak much more slowly and on which water will tend to run off.

    Boots BonneGueule

    Ankle boots provide good protection against the rain. The higher the shoe goes up the ankle, the more effective it will be in this situation. ( Boots BonneGueule )

    Obviously, if they don't have a skate yet, don't wear your shoes when it rains. This is really bad for the sole: although it may dry out when you get home, the humidity makes it much more crumbly.
    The ideal is to have a rubber sole, or a Norwegian welt that completely insulates the assembly of the shoe!

    For more shoe advice and stock up on brands, watch the latest episode of Sape m'en 5 by our chief curator, Nicolò:

    If you want EVEN MORE brands, don't forget to also take a look at our great leather shoe guide .

    The forgotten accessory: the umbrella!

    Lenger Umbrella

    Lenger umbrella, €34.

    If we don't want to complicate our lives and don't mind a few drops, we can make do with an umbrella.

    For a light shower, it will keep you dry and, in that case, you can dress pretty much however you want. On the other hand, as soon as we have squalls or violent showers, it becomes really complicated. Better to bring a trench coat or coat, and use it to keep your hair dry.

    THE SMALL GRAIN OF EUXANE SALT

    If you are looking for a "real" beautiful umbrella, which is also extremely resistant, I recommend the Parapluies de Cherbourg , which echo the Jacques Demy film.

    Cherbourg umbrella

    I grew up there and worked in their store in the summer. These are very beautiful objects, made from noble materials, and the production is done by hand in France. They are also very resistant to gusts (the most resistant to a wind tolerance of up to 150 km/h).

    For the record, they were the ones who made the armored Kevlar umbrella at the request of Nicolas Sarkozy's protection service.

    And if you want a little more advice and brands about this accessory, this is the place.

    Are there any items of clothing that should be avoided?

    You will have understood, certain materials are more or less sensitive to water! This is why you should avoid wearing them, and be vigilant for others...

    1. DOES THE LEATHER JACKET HOLD THE RAIN?

    Even if the skins can withstand a downpour without risk, the problem essentially comes from the dye. Especially if your leatheris in aniline finish ...

    Halos may form where the drops have fallen , which can also slightly change the texture of the leather. And believe me, it's very problematic.

    stained rain leather jacket

    A stormy rain that arrives by surprise can cause damage... On beautiful aniline skins, water penetrates and leaves marks as it dries, which very few specialists can correct.

    However, while it is true that some leathers have their appearance permanently changed once soaked, this is not the case for all.

    Suede leather jackets , for example, have the false reputation of fearing water , because the small "hairs" which make up their surface clump together once wet, and give it an unpleasant shiny appearance.

    They can regain their beautiful appearance without much problem with proper maintenance .

    And leather insulates water quite well, even when soaked.

    However, that doesn't make them ideal : it can be tedious to have to brush them every time you have a little rain. So it's no big deal to get caught in the rain while wearing them, but if you can plan ahead, choose something else.

    Finally, some smooth leathers resist water very well, and barely lose color, while others fade very quickly... This is on a case by case basis , because the most beautiful smooth leathers are not always the most resistant to rain.

    2. BEWARE OF KNIT AND WOOL

    Wool pieces are not very suitable for rain: although many of them like water, you have undoubtedly noticed the smell that comes from wet wool. Frankly not pleasant, even if it disappears quickly once dry.

    Bonnegueule superyak cardigan collar

    Big sweaters, wool cardigans, cotton sweatshirts... It's best to avoid exposing them too much to water.

    But the real problem does not come from the wool itself , because woven and dense wool sheets (such as on coats or pea coats), or even boiled wool, can withstand a good downpour without the slightest problem.

    No, the real problem comes from the way it is worked on the mesh pieces!

    Because a mesh is meant to be spongy, airy , in order to be able to trap heat close to the body while breathing as much as possible.

    However, it is these same properties that make them real sponges in the face of rain. This applies to both wool sweaters and cotton sweatshirts.

    Jodan smiling with a hoodie

    © Jordan smiles, because he knows deep down that his hoodie is not there to protect against the rain. In the event of a downpour, he will therefore opt for an umbrella, or another item. Do like Jordan.

    This remark concerns especially hoodies in fleece that will become a mop from the first downpour.

    The water will seep everywhere by capillary action: you will be soaked to the skin in no time.

    In this specific case, the hood is a false friend : you might think that it is there to protect you from the water, but it is mainly used for style, or as an additional accessory if your head is cold.

    The final word...

    As you will have understood, trench coats, macs and other coated pieces are very practical. Versatile and stylish, they will easily protect you. The waterproofing of the material is not eternal, you will simply have to remember to re-apply the coating on the garment to restore its water-repellent properties, and be careful that the construction of the coat does not jeopardize keeping you dry.

    For optimal insulation, the techwear route remains the most suitable. Style is often more connoted, although more and more brands are offering urban alternatives.

    Also think about accessories, like an umbrella or a scarf if it's cold. Be careful with wool items and take care of your shoes after a downpour.

    I hope I have covered the options available to you for dressing for rainy weather. Don’t hesitate to ask your questions in the comments!

    Romain Rousseau, luxury passion

    Seeing a tailor mark his canvas impresses me, watching an embroiderer twirl her needle gives me chills, admiring perfect leather makes me smile. I am passionate about Luxury for what it is (rigor, excellence, love of beauty), and even more I love to share and transmit this passion.

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