Rain requires some preparation. At the top, you put on a rain coat or even take an umbrella with you. If your raincoat is long enough, it can protect you from head to knees, and that's not bad.
But you want to wear leather dress shoes , which can be exposed to heavy rain and thus take on water. How to do ?
The right leather
Not all leathers are equal in the rain. Some are more appropriate than others. Here are the ones to favor:
1. BOOKBINDED LEATHER
Bookbinding involves covering the leather with a layer of plastic. It is easily recognized by its shiny appearance and smooth surface.
We don't really recommend bookbinded leathers as a rule: unnatural plastic appearance, takes a lot of creases, doesn't age very well (the plastic layer can crumble for example), etc.
However, it has an advantage that interests us here: it holds up well in the rain. In fact, the water flows over the plastic layer without passing through it.
Trickers bookbinded brogues, which can be recognized by their very characteristic uniform shine.
2. OAT LEATHER
We obtain oily leather by injecting it, during its manufacture, with more fat than in another type of leather. This makes it more flexible and resistant.
It can be recognized by its slightly oily appearance.
It takes marks on the surface but they are easily removed.
The majority of oiled leather shoes are not super formal, I am thinking of Red Wing type work boots for example.
Oiled leather hunting derby. Credits:Jacques & Démeter
3. GRAINED LEATHER
Grained leather is obtained by pressing smooth leather in such a way as to give it its grainy visual appearance. I have always found that grained leathers hold up well in the rain.
This can be explained by the fact that grained leather is traditionally found on more rustic and country looking shoes (e.g. brogues) which are made to be worn in more muddy and humid environments.
We can also mention the fact that the raised surface of grained leather marks less than smooth leather : we therefore worry less about the leather being stained or damaged.
Grained leather brogue derby. Credits: Barker.
The right assembly
By assembly (or construction), we are talking about the technique used to assemble the upper of the shoe with the sole. A sole can be sewn (with sewing thread) or glued (with glue) to the upper.
Above all, we recommend a sewn assembly.
And more particularly, certain constructions allow water to pass through less easily: this is the case with Goodyear or Norwegian stitching for example .
A Norwegian sewn up close. The water. Born. Will pass. Not ! Enzo Bonafe shoes.
Concerning the GoodYear sewn, we can distinguish the classic GoodYear sewn from the GoodYear Stormwelt sewn.
On the Stormwelt, the welt rises slightly on the upper of the shoe, which provides additional protection against water. Here is a graph which allows you to compare the two (classic Goodyear = "welt construction"):
Diagram detailing the difference between classic GoodYear sewn and GoodYear Stormwelt sewn.
The stormwelt can be seen when you look closer:
The Stormwelt is the small part that goes up right next to the seam. BonneGueule boots.
What you should really avoid in the rain are glued shoes , where water infiltrates more easily through the sole.
A shoe that talks. Credits: iFixit.
The right sole
You will find many shoes that come with a sole like this:
A leather sole. Credits: Mr. Shoe.
This is a leather sole. You should not walk on wet ground with an unprotected leather sole :
- You will slip, it can be quite dangerous
- Water will soften the leather of the sole and wear it out very quickly.
Under your shoes with leather soles, you must have a shoe and an iron fitted by a shoemaker . The rubber pad will already give you better grip.
A rubber pad and an iron placed on a leather sole. Credits: Mr. Shoe.
If possible, opt for shoes with a rubber sole. They sometimes come with studs, which provide good grip on wet ground:
Rubber soles. Credits: Bowen.
Do completely waterproof dress shoes exist?
Waterproof dress shoes, with a waterproof membrane behind the leather that completely blocks the passage of water, exist but are rare.
Benoît mentioned it in for cycling in particular ), but here we are talking about overshoes for dress shoes. This rubber accessory goes over your shoes to protect them from water. Some will not find them to their taste. Others will find a certain charm in them, in addition to their practical aspect. I'll let you judge.
You will find relatively elegant models from the Swims brand for example.
Credit: Swims.
Too late, my shoes took on water. What to do ?
Jordan comes to your rescue! All his advice can be found in the article on caring for your leather shoes, part 8: “ How to straighten shoes that have been in the rain ” . Hope this helps you.
And here are our own leather shoes, for walking in (small) puddles with style:
