Guide to buying your leather shoes: the method to know if they will last (Part 2)

I'll start with a syllogism, to get you into the swing of things:

A quality pair of shoes is durable; what is durable is cheap; so a quality pair of shoes is cheap.

Good.

Nothing new under the sun than to say that a quality product will last you longer and, therefore, it will cost you less . But it's a necessary reminder, especially when you consider that what you want most from a good pair of leather shoes is their durability. More than any other product.

From there, a number of questions arise. Notably :

1. What does “sustainable” mean for a pair of shoes?
2. How do you assess whether a pair of shoes is of quality (and therefore durable)?
3. At what price can we expect to buy shoes of sufficient quality to be durable?
4. Does durability increase proportionately with price?

Come on, let's attack.

WHAT DOES “SUSTAINABLE” MEAN?

This is going to be a bit arbitrary but, in my opinion, the minimum to say that shoes are durable is five years.

But this duration only means something when correlated with the selling price of said shoes. So I would say five years for entry-level quality. The maximum durability is that the pair of shoes outlives you (assuming that your life expectancy is average).

And above all, sustainability is not to be considered in absolute terms. This is not possible!

It relates to the context of use of the shoes. Apart from their intrinsic quality, many parameters influence durability:

• The ability of its owner to maintain them properly
• Adequate protective soles, properly installed by a good shoemaker
• The frequency of use of these shoes
• The wearer's gait (when I worked for a shoemaker, I saw some clients wear out their heels at breakneck speed while others had to levitate all day, their soles were so intact)
• The degree of fit between the shape of the shoe and that of the wearer's foot
• The weight of the carrier

That makes them parameters!

Sometimes, before rushing to the shoemaker, with bloodshot eyes, demanding accountability for premature wear, it is appropriate to take a step back.

If, for example, you exert a lot of weight on your soles - due to your body shape - and/or you walk 5-10km per day, it is obvious that you will wear out your shoes more quickly than a person with slender physique and/or sitting in an office chair all day.

So are you doomed for eternity to crush your shoes with every step you take?

Not necessarily. It will be beneficial for you to turn to more solid constructions (like Norwegian), if the clothing requirements linked to your job allow you to do so.

In addition, it must be remembered that a worn heel can be changed , that a shoe can be resoled (with the right assembly), that the slide also changes. In short, the parts that receive blows and friction.

Do we blame a car when its tires are worn?

The death of a quality shoe will (almost) always be heralded by the death of the leather making up the upper.

HOW DO YOU ASSESS THAT A PAIR OF SHOES IS QUALITY (AND THEREFORE DURABLE)?

This question will be the subject of further explanations but, to answer it straight away, let's say that a pair of quality shoes is three things:

• Durable leather (upper and sole)
• A solid and repairable assembly
• Tight seams, neat lining, well-executed perforations

AT WHAT PRICE CAN YOU EXPECT TO BUY SUSTAINABLE SHOES?

Ah!

The million euro question. The one that interests anyone looking to optimize their budget. Except... it's quite difficult to answer like that, as if someone were asking me what time it is, to the extent that what is durable is only relatively so in a context.

We saw it above, remember?

But let's assume the following ideal situation: worn three days a week, this pair will never be used two days in a row, will be maintained regularly and correctly, will have received a skate and an iron, the distance covered during these days of wear will not be excessive, the wearer will not have a gait that is particularly harmful to the sole.

That's not bad.

If we take the five-year forecast that I gave above, taking into account use three times per week, that makes 780 ports.

Leather is the main element that makes the shoe durable. It is also the most expensive in manufacturing.

And, on this basis, without knowing the purchase price of quality entry-level leather by a shoemaker, but having carefully observed the offer and based on feedback, I would say that it is impossible to have something durable below 150-160€ (on the condition that the pair of shoes is not sold by a distributor, since he will take an additional margin as explained in Benoît's excellent article on ready-to-wear economic models).

150-160€ is the extreme minimum. In this range, I recommend LodinG (180€), Orban's (160€) and Meermin (160€), taking care to check the quality points that I will describe to you later in this article.

At this price, there is a good chance that the leather chosen will be, at best, a full pigmented flower . Below this price, we will have a leather sanded, rectified (unlike 'full grain' leather, sanded or rectified or even corrected leather is leather where the grain has been sanded to get rid of the defects appearing there. This weakens the leather) and the tannery will probably have made savings on the products tanning, making the leather less durable.

You don't want leather whose grain has been deliberately damaged to hide structural defects, do you? (I invite you to review the categorization of leather finishes leaving tanneries in the first part of this guide .)

And I'm not talking about the assembly which, below this price, has every chance of being welded. What is to durability, what skinny jeans are to elegance.

DOES DURABILITY INCREASE PROPORTIONALLY WITH PRICE?

In other words: does the more money I put in, the more durable a product I get?

My answer: not in the strict sense of the term, but let's say that it increases significantly to a certain point. Up to €600, I would say.
Until then, improving the quality of the leather of the upper and sole will increase the durability of the shoe, proportionate to the price.

After this stage, the further improved quality of the leather will certainly have a positive impact on durability, but to a lesser extent. The assembly can be done by hand and will therefore be of better quality, but its benefit will be difficult to measure over the lifespan of the shoe.

What changes, at this stage, after 600€ I mean, is above all the care taken in the execution of the shape of the shoe, the study of the relief of the sole inside to improve the support and therefore comfort. The impact of an increase in quality beyond €600 therefore translates more to the benefit of the wearer's posture. And therefore for his health.

And now, let's get into the details of the quality of a pair of shoes.

WHAT ARE THE SIGNS THAT PREDICT THE DURABILITY OF A PAIR OF SHOES?

But first of all, tell me, leather: living material or dead material?

Hard to say.

Let's say he's not really alive... but he's not really dead either.

Living matter because: we feel a certain warmth when we touch it, it communicates with the outside world. He reacts. It bends with movement, absorbs liquids, can crack over time, it nourishes itself.

Dead matter, all the same, because it is not endowed with movement, is not in action.

But finally, matter more alive than dead. Because it is an animal material and therefore the leather will always present certain imperfections. Keep this in mind when purchasing a pair of leather shoes.

The challenge is to evaluate these imperfections and judge whether they harm the durability of the shoe. Are these simple defects in appearance or weaknesses rendering the durability contract you enter into with the shoe manufacturer void?

The task is made difficult by the different camouflage techniques that the leather (or the assembly!) may have undergone and which we saw in the first part of this guide .

But after reading this topic, no one will be able to cheat you anymore.

WHAT IS DURABLE LEATHER?

IT IS FULL FLOWER

As also explained in the first part (if you haven't read it, you will notice that I am making very frank appeals to you!), the resistance of the leather is induced by the collagen fibers when they are tightened . These fibers are found in the dermis of the skin.

Which implies that a durable leather is a full grain leather (all the dermis has been preserved), the grain of which will not have been damaged by sanding (the collagen fibers being more numerous on the surface).

How can you recognize leather that has been sanded and coated with an opaque layer (we can also say “rectified” or “corrected” and even “bookbinded” – which would be the extreme case)?

First of all, the good reflex is to look at the pictograms.

Except that in life, we don't always have instructions for everything, all the time and sometimes we can only count on ourselves.

Rest assured, rectified leather is easily recognized in the majority of cases : it is smooth, extremely regular and shines like a disco ball. In short, it looks like plastic (that's normal, it contains some) but in a glamorous version.

A drop of water on such leather will not penetrate. Never. You will see it running at full speed on the stem, attracted by Earth's gravity and eager to escape. Difficult to test in store that said.

And besides, no maintenance cream will penetrate either. That’s the problem! Because this makes it a leather that cannot take care of. And therefore perishable.

However, be careful with shortcuts! The converse is not true.

This does not mean that good leather is necessarily matte (as oily leather can be). Full grain leathers may have a finish shiny called “aniline” , a varnish, just to protect a little and give shine.

And this is where the difference can be a little slight, as long as the rectified flower only requires a thin layer to camouflage.

Here, you have to rely on other clues:

• The first: the grain of the leather.
  Wait for the seller or the saleswoman has her back turned to stick your face close to the leather. What do you see ? If it is full grain leather, you should see the grain of the leather, the pores of the leather, this very slightly grainy appearance on the surface which allows this communication with the outside world. It was a material in movement, which lived, it cannot be as smooth and immaculate as rectified leather when you think about it.

• Second clue: under the pads of the fingers, is the sensation rather cold and slippery or warm (it's relative) and a little rough? The first sensation corresponds to rectified leather, the second to full grain leather.
• Third hint: ask the salesman or customer service. “Is this corrected leather?” Some people won't know what you're talking about. Run away. Others will sell you the glossy look as a top coat for aesthetic purposes. Ask them if it is “full grain” leather. And still others will give you the answer straight away, if the brand they work for has chosen transparency at the right price.
• Fourth clue (after the sale): the walking folds will be less natural. But it's difficult to describe.

So now you know the theory. Now a little practice, although you only have your eyes at your disposal.

Exercise: will you be able to recognize where the rectified leather is among these glossy shoes?

Good.

All this being said about rectified leather, this is the moment where I qualify my remarks.

I have Markowski (brand which has now disappeared) in bookbinded leather (so sanded and coated, if you follow closely) which I am paradoxically very happy with. Eh yes.

I bought them knowingly. They cost me around €130 on sale and they were my all-terrain moccasins. I didn't have any skates or irons installed. Pure and simple laziness. I have used them in all weathers and they are just reaching the end of their life after four years of use.

I plan to buy two pairs of moccasins in this leather, for no-fuss all-terrain shoes.

So I would say that, for me, rectified leather is not to be favored on pairs of shoes that are intended to be elegant. It's good for going out when it rains or going to clubs or drunken parties.

Rectified leather is also not the most durable because, as I said, it is impossible to maintain.

So much for the nuance on rectified leather.

Ok, so durable leather is full grain. After that ?

IT DOES NOT HAVE ANY REDHIBITORY DEFECT

I repeat: perfect leather does not exist. And that’s what makes this material so beautiful.

Thus, entry-level, mid-range and – to a certain extent – ​​high-end leather can have defects. All your skill lies in knowing whether these defects will be prohibitive or not.

Yes: if a pair of shoes for €250 were absolutely perfect, how could a pair for €1000 or €2000 stand out? What is the superlative “perfect”?

You have to have the requirement well placed.

Some brands have made us believe for marketing purposes that bookbinding, with its shiny and flawless appearance, was a kind of super leather and we have difficulty getting away from this vision of things. But, once again, flaws are part of the leather.

It is normal for very high quality leather to have veins and wrinkles.

For what ? Because the leather skins that shoemakers receive to make their products have this type of defect. It is mandatory. Again, this is animal material.

These defects are mainly found on the sides and on the collar, where the skin has become distended with the movements of the animal.

To make a pair of shoes free of defects, you have to have the luxury of choosing only the parts of the leather that do not have any. Which really adds to the bill.

Thus, entry-level and mid-range brands which will use all parts of the skin to manufacture their pairs of shoes, for cost-cutting purposes (to offer you a contained final price), will be more likely to find these defects on the guarantors, the vamp or the quarters of their shoes (see diagram above).

Yes, because unlike, it is not the same result if you make one stem with a whole skin, or twenty stems with it. Only one upper per skin and you will have the choice of the most beautiful parts of the leather; twenty, you won't really have a choice.

That's life.

The real question, beyond aesthetic considerations, is: do these wrinkles and veins make the shoes less durable? The answer is no.

This is acceptable up to a certain price. The threshold of €400, I would say.

But between €150 and €400 for sure, don’t be too demanding. It is not possible to have everything. It is also true that quality controls are more lax at this price level.

For example, this is acceptable for Meermin at €160:

Oh yes, and a little something too: be careful, sometimes controlled “defects” are there to give character to a product.

You can work leather to give it an aged appearance. We talking about tumbled leather . On boots, this can be interesting as an effect to accentuate the desirability of the product, to give it an adventurer side.

Although, in my opinion, it's a bit like buying jeans that are already torn. The real adventurer is not the one who buys his boots because they look adventurous, it is the one who drags them to so many corners that he transforms their appearance.

And then, between us, this can create temptations for a shoemaker. Like, for example, passing off a leather defect as a stylish effect.

Look at these so-called “business” derbies in aged finish leather.

On a pair of boots, it’s already more justified!

On the other hand, stylistic effects should not make us forget the crippling defects that we must know how to identify.

I really like the Canadian brand Viberg, which works well with its leathers and offers highly desirable, high-quality products.

However, I recently came across this product.

On the vamp side of the shoe, the leather is curled. Do you see the little waves on the side?

If we were to fold the leather a little with our fingers, we imagine that we would see even bigger folds, right?

So, aesthetic desire of the designer or justification after the fact for the use of hollow leather?

Except: hollow leather is indeed a defect. That is to say, if you notice the presence of such leather on your pair of shoes, do not hesitate for a single second and bring it back.

As much as I encourage you to be tolerant on questions of light veins and wrinkles, on hollow leather I am more sharp.

I take the example of this Viberg product to tell you: with leather, whatever the price range, you have to be wary. There are only good products, not good brands. And, therefore, this allows me to say that Viberg also makes very good products. We simply have to get away from the “good brands/bad brands” vision.

As I said, hollow leather is a fatal flaw.

Here, without a shadow of a doubt, is hollow leather:

Hollow leather is a separation of the fibers between the flesh and the grain , it is therefore very weak and will not be durable.

However, it should not be confused with curling leather. See instead:

If leather curls, it's not the end of the world. This is a small weakness but it does not affect the longevity of the shoe.

First of all, when the foot is in the shoe and fills it properly, this defect is not visible. Except when you press with your finger of course, but this is not a normal situation for using the shoe. What's important is the lend of leather: the sense of relaxation of it.

However, as this is a small weakness all the same (much less than the hollow leather), you must be careful that it is not distributed over the entire vamp. In a small area, it's okay, otherwise you have to return to the store.

And, if this is visible without pressure on the leather, and the difference between the two feet is too great, you may need to request an exchange from the brand.

Some examples of good leathers for the price:

The photograph of this pair of LodinG shoes shows that, on the counter (rear of the upper), we see a scar. This is completely acceptable for this price range.

In another price range:

Completely honest. You see, on the top of the stem, near the curls, the three small vertical lines. It's not a big deal. That won't stop these shoes from being durable. You just have to say that it is a particularity that makes them unique to you.

Now comes the time to question a statement that I have often heard in stores:

“My shoes mark, it’s not normal! The leather is defective!”

And for me to answer, “yes, yes, don’t worry, it’s normal. The leather is good.”

And it quickly turned into something like this:

It's pretty hard to be an honest seller, I tell you. When you are absolutely sure that you are right, when you want to advise the client as best you can, but the client persists in seeing you as a perfidious person who would sell his mother, it's tricky.

So let's ask the question:

ARE WRINKLES A SIGN OF POOR QUALITY LEATHER THAT WILL NOT LAST?

NO !

NO !

AND NO !

But we can also say that since poor quality leather behaves poorly anyway, it will be likely to mark more than good leather, that's for sure.

However, this does not mean that since it marks, it is bad leather. Since it is normal for leather to mark. A soft plastic plate will not mark it. But what do you prefer for walking? In fact, walking folds are necessary since they facilitate the movement of the breaking foot.

This is the whole challenge of leather: between flexibility and rigidity.

But then why do some people have more marked shoes than others? And WHY sometimes on the same person one of the two feet marks more?

The mystery of the marking feet finally solved!

First of all, it depends on the thickness and flexibility of the leather. It is understandable.

But (hang in there!), this can also come from reasons as varied as they are obscure, which I tell you here:

• A bad choice of size : if the foot does not fill the shoe sufficiently, the leather fills the space when you walk and creases appear. As we often have one foot stronger than the other, we understand that the leather has more space to fill in one shoe than in the other. Logical, right? The result: different creases on each shoe
• A shoe shape not adapted to the shape of the foot : if the foot fills the shoe better in certain places than in others, this will create disparate tensions and therefore disparate folds
• A plain upper (like the one-cut ) will tend to mark more because of the absence of seam on the front of the shoe (straight toe)
• Too intense use of the pair of shoes. The leather must rest on the shoe trees (at least 24 hours) and become taut under their action.
• Non-rigorous maintenance of the leather : you must insist on the folds with the nourishing cream.

In fact, if I pushed the envelope a little further, I would say that the comfort pleats that appear are very personal and that they make the piece truly unique. A bit like the fading of jeans, its whiskers, the design of your smartphone on the canvas, at the pocket level.

Note for the psycho-rigids of the walking fold (yes, yes, it exists, they are there, lurking in the shadows!) that nubucks and suede calfskin tend to mark less than smooth leathers. It's good to know.

So much for leather and the different durability questions that we could have. Do you feel like you're a little better prepared to recognize sustainable leather now? I'm happy !

The best way is to practice. Go to the store. Go see what's good and what's not so good. You have to confront yourself to understand.

Ok for the leather. But to assess the quality of a pair of shoes, you must also pay attention to the way in which it is constructed: its assembly, the seams, the lining. In short, the assembly.

JUDGE THE DURABILITY OF A PAIR OF SHOES BY CHECKING THE SOLIDITY OF ITS CONSTRUCTION

MOUNTING

In my first subject devoted to leather tanning and the manufacture of a pair of shoes , I only returned very briefly to the different assemblies. Because this previous article already did it amply.

That said, I would like to clarify a few things to make your life easier: a GoodYear or Norwegian edit will be more durable than a Blake/Rapide or Bolognese edit.

For several reasons :

• Better waterproofing of GoodYear and Norwegian
• Better strength thanks to the presence of an additional seam
• Possibility of resoling the shoe (where it is less obvious with a Blake, even if it's possible )

However, I won't hide the fact that we have to cut corners a little on comfort. When you want something solid, something durable, you have to make a small concession that is easy to understand: the solidity of the assembly means that the first ports will be more difficult than on Blake, which is more flexible and therefore more comfortable at first glance.

This is what we mean by “you have to break in the shoe”. And if, in addition to assembly, the leather is thick and lacks flexibility, the time required to make the shoe fit your foot can exceed a month (that is to say approximately twelve wearings).

I've heard customers say they have a hard time “breaking in shoes” and others who say three or four ports are enough. In life, we are not equal when it comes to certain things and shoes are no exception to the rule:

• Our sensitivities diverge
• We may be confronted with a shape more or less adapted to our foot...
• ...or a stiff leather that is difficult to soften

Logical, right?

Here are already some possible explanations. But we will see this in detail in the third topic of this buying guide.

So, back to editing: you need GoodYear or Norwegian. Be careful to understand: there are good quality Blakes. It's just that, if you are in a process of "consuming less but better", it is better to buy two pairs of GoodYear than of Blake. They will last you longer.

If, however, you are more of the collector type (of quality pairs of shoes), Blakes could easily be included in your collection.

HOW TO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A GOODYEAR MOUNT AND A BLAKE?

I start by mentioning a sad reality: certain brands will abuse your credulity.

Without really saying it, they will try to pass off Blake as GoodYear. Because those who know nothing about it will have the impression of an extra seam (and therefore more solidity) and those who know a little about it will think they recognize the GoodYear and will be reassured.

Except that from now on, your eyes are wide open!

The Blake

We notice that the Blake stitching runs through the entire sole from the inside of the shoe to the outside of it. To recognize a Blake stitch therefore, you must, by turning the shoe over, see the seam running all around the sole (this therefore excludes welded or glued soles which will not have this seam) but you must also see inside the shoe, this same seam goes all around the insole.

Be careful, if you don't see it, it may have been hidden by an insole taking up all the space. Like in Berluti for example.

If you're having trouble determining on the outside of the shoe whether it's a GoodYear or a Blake, look inside it. If, as in the Berluti, nothing appears either, run your finger along the edge of the insole, you should feel a small bump running along the lining. It's a Blake. If you don't feel anything, it's a GoodYear.

Signs of a good Blake:

• The sewing will be done with two sticky threads ...
• ... sewn with a lockstitch, this gives more strength to the seam (unlike a chain stitch)...
• ...and under closed engraving: that is to say that we will have covered the exterior seam, under the sole with a thin layer of leather to protect it (we find this technique on other quality assemblies).

The GoodYear

It is normally quite easy to recognize a GoodYear stitch. Already, a shoemaker who chooses a GoodYear assembly will say it or display it to let you know. This is a competitive advantage, especially at the entry or mid-range.

It takes a little longer to do and therefore more expensive for him.

Visually otherwise, we recognize it thanks to the welt that goes around the shoe.

Welts, you've seen them before. This is what it gives:

Norwegian stitching is a cousin of GoodYear stitching.

The similarity is in the double stitching and the welt system.

The difference lies in the placement of the seam linking the welt to the upper and the wall: it is horizontal and through, that is to say it will be seen on the outside of the shoe.

The welt will therefore have two visible seams.

The Norwegian assembly is even more robust and waterproof than the GoodYear assembly , but also gives a slightly more massive aesthetic to the shoe.

That's it for the reminders about the edits and what you should check to avoid being fooled. Afterwards, let's say that the tricks will be seen more among brands for which shoes are not the initial business.

If you want good shoes: knock on the door of someone whose specialty is that. Shoemaking is a profession, it’s technical. It can't be improvised. It's like the sushi you find in supermarkets. Thanks, but… no thanks.

True know-how must be rewarded, not its pale copy.

So, we must go further. Let’s go into more detail about this technicality. If you want a shoe to be durable, you have to check that it has been well constructed. And that goes through the seams, the balancing of the shoe and other things that we're going to see.

WELL-FITTED SHOES

There's no secret.

The quality seams are tight and regular. There can be two threads to make up the seam, that's not bad. Inspect each of them, this is essential for the longevity of the shoe.

This is what can go wrong.

A WELT WEAKENED BY IRREGULAR SMALL STITCHING

Another point of caution: on this pair of boots, the small stitch sewing is random. Do you see the difference between the two?

Yes, there is a nice difference in stitch density on these respective shoes. Keep your eyes peeled, to err is human, it can happen in any range of shoes.

SEAMS TOO CLOSE TO THE EDGE OR OUT OF THE SOLE

After a few hours of walking, this seam will come loose, that's for sure. Leaving you in the lurch. All that's left to do is head back home.

The small stitch seam should disappear under the heel.

WHEN THE SHOE REVEALS ITS FITTING

The GoodYear stitching ties the welt to the upper and wall of the insole. It is she who holds the whole shoe together.

If we see this seam which is supposed to be invisible, it is a problem because it obviously makes the assembly much more fragile. The solution is to resole, but I'll tell you, that shouldn't be out of your pocket. This is indeed an assembly fault and the brand should take care of it. A good resoling costs between €100 and €150.

This is what we should see:

THE SCOPE OF THE SHOE

So this is about balancing the shoe.

Yes, we are in the thick of things. You wanted to become an expert, so hold on!
At the end of the article, you will feel ready to tackle the world of shoes, I am convinced.

The reach of the shoe is the way it behaves, flat on the ground, without a foot to fill it and without a shoe tree either. Does the front lift? The rear rather? Both ?

This balancing is important in more than one way, but the main one is your posture, your walking comfort. After all, these shoes are made for walking, right? Isn't that right Nancy?

And there's nothing worse than struggling with a pair of shoes that dictate certain movements.

The shoe once on the foot must make a swinging movement. So, here's what you should have on a new shoe:

And here's what you don't want:

SURPRISING: A SOLE TOO SHORT

Be careful, it's not just a question of aesthetics. In fact, it's much more than that. A sole that is too short will cause the leather at the back of the shoe to sag . The result ? Premature degradation of the upper and discomfort for the wearer.

This defect will also be seen on the front of the shoe.

The sole on the right, too short, lacks its function of protecting the leather of the hard toe. Here too, the leather will degrade more quickly. This is therefore not a problem to be taken lightly.

BENDING OF THE STEM

There, it's less serious, but it's something to watch out for.

The leather feels pinched. It may be weakened by assembly. On the other hand, you should not worry too much. In the case of the photo, this is not prohibitive. If you have a cosmetic problem with these wrinkles, that's one thing, but as far as durability goes, that shouldn't matter.

SO.

You now know the major leather, assembly and sewing defects that can occur on a pair of shoes. This makes them points of vigilance.

Before closing this second part, I would like to draw your attention to the finishes which demonstrate careful work. That is to say, if we observe some of these details (or all!) on a pair of shoes, you do not have to worry too much because this deployment of effort in manufacturing will be proof of particular attention paid to its quality.

8 FINISHES THAT ATTEST CAREFUL WORK

1. Sewing under closed engraving. We've already talked about it: you can't see the seam under the sole, that's normal. This helps protect the seam and the sole during the first wears, before having a skate fitted;

2. Real cork filling and not cork paste. In the jargon, we call it “filled”. Cork paste tends to settle very quickly. Thus modifying the feeling of wearing and possibly contributing to the foot no longer filling the shoe as well (causing more walking creases in fact);

3. Quality insole : the vegetable collar is a premium leather for the insole. If this first one is made from questionable leather, move on;

4. Wooden or leather shank : take the diagram on the anatomy of a shoe. On entry-level or mid-range shoes, it will be made of plastic or metal. It’s a piece that can’t be seen. If the brand agrees to improve the quality of this invisible part, it is because it is in a quality approach.

5. Round rail : the rail is the edge of the sole that protrudes. I do believe that there are real round rails, compared to rails rounded by sanding, but let's say that in either case, it's still an appreciable finish;

6. Domed sole : there, just under the soles of the feet. It's purely aesthetic;

7. Dense and regular seams (6/8 stitches per cm);

8. Sticky threads as already seen.

THE FINAL WORD...

Leather is an animal material. It should be judged as such. Veins, wrinkles, appearance defects are normal things that are not uncommon to find from time to time.

The fault lies in breeding conditions that can still be improved, in the choice or not of using all parts of the skin (even the weakest) and also in the luxury industry which uses the majority of skins for leather goods, leaving the shoemakers less choice.

You have to know how to demonstrate flexibility and measured demands. And I hope that with this buying guide you better understand the ins and outs of this sector, the constraints linked to this profession and also all the beauty that there is in the work which gives birth to a pair of shoes quality.

In part three, we'll talk about style, context, with the ultimate goal of helping you know what type of shoes to wear for what type of event.

Come on, see you next week!

NOT FORGETTING OUR OWN DRESS SHOES...

Elegant men's shoes: brogues and boots made in England. Chelsea boots, built in the purest English bootmaking tradition. Only the best for your feet.