In a second article, he explains how to know if a shoe is going to be durable or not .
Assembly refers to the method by which the shoe is constructed. As an indication, as specified by the British brand Crockett & Jones, a pair of Goodyear shoes requires more than 200 manual operations...
The assembly will, most often, determine the way in which the upper (the "top" of the shoe) is assembled to the (or even to) the sole(s). Although great progress has been made with glues, sewn assembly remains the benchmark in terms of strength , quality and durability.
I therefore offer you a brief summary of the most common techniques, with their particular signs, and some clear diagrams kindly provided by Jacques & Déméter .
The different types of shoe assembly
First of all, allow me a little clarification regarding the so-called "under-engraving" assembly : it can occur each time a seam appears under the outsole (typically on Blake).
The technique is simple: instead of leaving the seam visible on the outside, a thin groove is dug in the leather to accommodate the stitching points, then it is closed.
It often remains visible, but to confirm, don't hesitate to look inside the shoe!
The Blake edit
He unleashes passions, arouses the hatred of some, the admiration of others, but through his elegance maintains a disturbing distance. Accused of simplism, it is criticized for having a shorter lifespan than its enemy brother Goodyear.
Praised for the finesse that only it allows, it delights lovers of streamlined and elegant shoes . Do not think that this is a rational debate: it is only passion, much more than reason.
The shuttle point in action.
Concretely, the Blake is an assembly, as illustrated in the diagram, thanks to which all the parts of the shoe (upper, soles, etc.) are linked by a solid seam, like the shuttle stitch. The upper is generally glued, hence the other name for Blake "sewn and glued".
No need for stitches on the outer edges of the shoe, which results in a finesse characteristic of the Blake construction.
Berluti's unique designs are made possible by the Blake. Here, the Alessandro model.
The criticism comes from the fact that resoling is complicated by this single stitch, which secures the outsole to everything else. In fact, without being completely impossible, the installation of a new sole remains complicated and weakens the shoe.
However, legendary bootmakers such as Berluti have always used this assembly, and have shown that its quality is indisputable, when it is obviously well made. Add a pad to protect the sole, plus the rule “never the same shoes two days in a row”, and you will have PLENTY of time before you get to the point of resoling!
Particular signs :
- The inevitable presence of stitches under the insole , inside the sole.
- Except in special cases or by the designer's wishes, the outsole is often thin and less visible than on a goodyear.
The Bolognese assembly
The Bolognese cut is a variation of the Blake cut which is mainly characterized by an absence of a first cut. To do this, the lining, after being mounted on the form, is pulled and then sewn. Then, the same maneuver is done with the top which is glued underneath on the lining.
After which, the last is removed and the outsole can be glued to create the Blake seam to ensure its retention. The Bolognese construction gives the shoes flexibility and good comfort, but due to its fragility it will not last too long.
Particular signs :
- Unlike the Blake sewn, it does not have a clean insole. It is the upper (upper + lining) which goes around the foot.
- The inside-outside seam is linked with the outsole through the upper.
The Goodyear assembly
It is presented as the Holy Grail of montages. Less expensive than Norwegian stitching or other complex stitching, welt stitching - as it is also called - would be the best compromise between durability, reliability, price and quality.
Its advantage lies in the presence of a welt (strip of leather) which is inserted between the upper and the sole: the shoe is then almost waterproof, whereas the Blake is more prone to taking on water. It also has the advantage of ensuring much easier resoling, because the outsole is sewn to the outside of the shoe.
We can see the points under the sole and on the exterior contours.
Particular signs :
- The “little stitches” seams on the outside of the shoe are the main characteristic of Goodyear. But to be sure of what you have in your hands, there is a second essential cumulative criterion.
- The inside seams are invisible , often under the insole. The diagram above speaks volumes on this subject!
Warning: some brands will not hesitate to try to cheat you . If some brands do not even try to make people believe that their products are of quality, others do not take responsibility for their low-end manufacturing at all:
A pair of Massimo Duttis that you should be wary of! ©Stéphane Ménard
You will then come across a model without sewing on the inside, and with points on the sole on the outside. Goodyear? No, fully glued assembly, with purely decorative points on the outside.
The moccasin assembly
The moccasin has evolved a lot in terms of style, sometimes having leather soles, or even Goodyear or Blake stitching. But there are still many models made using the very simple "traditional" technique: the foot is literally wrapped in a piece of leather.
The upper will be sewn to the sole below (often very flexible), but also on the top of the shoe, which gives it this very recognizable line.
THE moccasin par excellence: the flexible sole, and the very special stitching on the top of the shoe.
The quality and robustness of the leather are particularly important : if the skin is too thin, or marks the comfort fold a lot, this can be problematic... The regularity of the seams and the fact that they are close together / tight is also important for this type of shoe.
Although sometimes aesthetically questionable, moccasins have the advantage of being extremely comfortable.
Particular signs :
- On “traditional” moccasins, a single piece of leather forms a half-tube on which the foot rests...
- ...and justifies the presence of a seam all over the top of the shoe .
The Norwegian montage
It is almost legendary, its robustness matched only by the know-how and time required for its creation (which can last several days). You will notice, compared to the Goodyear, that the seam of the upper and the insole also goes through the welt, and comes out on the outside. The presence of an additional midsole guarantees complete waterproofing of the shoe.
It was designed for “extreme” environments and intensive use (walking, agricultural work, etc.). However, even if the stitches weigh down the “silhouette” of a shoe, we see Norwegian stitching used for “urban” models. Typically? The combat boots !
The Bonne Gueule X Heschung collab used this very robust Norwegian sewn.
Particular signs :
- Two lines of stitching visible on the outside.
- No stitches inside, stiffness and thickness of the sole.
The vulcanized assembly
Please forgive me for this somewhat contrived visual, but it's the best I managed to find. In red, I went over the upper (here in fabric) to clearly show that it slips under the insole, and on the outsole. To hold (and above all hide) everything, a rubber band goes all around the shoe by simple gluing.
Finally, the reddish sole under the shoe is made by injecting a mixture which will take shape as it cools. We speak of vulcanization , in reference to the chemical process according to which a little sulfur is added to an elastomer to make it even more elastic.
Converse, fans of vulcanized assembly.
This assembly remains low in quality, its only advantage being that it is produced automatically on the assembly line. However, we see some brands like Vans using this process with decent results.
If you have to buy one, make sure that the rubber band and the sole are firmly glued : fold the shoe, this may be enough to already notice signs of weakness... and above all, keep the receipt!
Particular signs :
- No seams, just glue.
- Rubber band going all around the shoe.
The finishes of a quality shoe
The devil is in the details, so take the time to observe them. They are generally very revealing of the level of finish, mastery and state of mind of a brand regarding the manufacturing of its products.
The seams
Approximately 6 points per cm on each line, tight, regular, but not too close together.
They are absolutely fundamental, since it is thanks to them that we can give shape to a shoe. As with shirts, the key to successful sewing stitches is regularity , proof of careful and controlled work.
On the other hand, if they have to be close to each other and tight, do not expect to find as many stitches as on a textile item: this would simply risk weakening the leather along the entire sewing line, and rip.
The stitches are clean, regular and tight.
On and under the sole, the stitches are larger (and made with very thick poached thread), which does not prevent them from also having to be regular!
The reinforcements/buttresses of the shoe
We can clearly see the reinforced buttress which prevents the upper from sagging...
There are areas of the shoe that need to be reinforced, if only to properly support the foot. At the back at the heel, it is therefore important to ensure that there are solid reinforcements, which will stiffen the back of the shoe.
They are often seen inside, but the best way to ensure that they are there is simply to press on the part of leather surrounding the heel: it must be really hard and not deform .
Perforations and other various designs
Impeccable perforations...
Certain details (chisels, perforations, studding, etc.) can personalize a shoe and give it character. Here again, a key word: regularity. Up close, everything should appear neat and clean, the patterns/studs well aligned and harmonious... Pay attention to both shoes in the pair, of course!
Closures
A quick look at the zip used is essential. Ease of opening and closing the zip, sensations of stops, irregular temples or closure that comes back down on its own once the shoe is put on: all these little details can quickly become annoying on a daily basis, so you might as well make sure that everything is perfect at this level - there !
Obviously, flagship zip brands like YKK or Riri suggest high quality.
The inside of the shoe
The inside of the shoe is also very important, especially comfort level! Leather insole: an essential . Synthetics can quickly become an oven and make you go through hell during the summer!
Even on sneakers, the ideal is a beautiful skin insole, with the exception of sports shoes whose multiple ventilations and innovative soles are often made of synthetic.
Beautiful leather for this very comfortable sole.
If possible also, the interior leather should be as beautiful as that on the exterior: a rough and poorly worked material can quickly become unpleasant, or even irritating, if worn for prolonged periods. Don't hesitate to put your hand inside the shoe...
Carnations
They are becoming rarer but are nevertheless useful, sometimes even essential. These are these little iron rings that surround the loops of your laces.
On sneakers, they can be placed on the outside and inside, while on elegant shoes, we will tend to place them on the inside only, for aesthetic reasons.
Eyelets inside and outside, essential on this shearling.
They prevent the friction of the laces from enlarging the loop, which would be particularly inelegant. Eyelets are essential on materials such as sheep leather, which is soft and almost elastic and therefore at risk of tearing or stretching.
Under the sole of the shoe
It is very common to place a pad under your dress shoes to protect your leather sole, but also to gain comfort: a sole smoothed by ports quickly becomes extremely slippery.
However, this operation will not be useful on the heel if it has a rubber insert. This is a detail that is not essential, but very practical and common in the high-end/luxury sector.
The presence of small nails on the front of the sole is also a very good sign regarding the care taken in manufacturing: without being essential, they reinforce the sole in a place where it is very exposed to scratches, shocks, etc.
What we could ultimately consider as an ideal bottom of a shoe.
Now that you've found the pair of your dreams, don't forget the importance of maintaining your shoes !
Not forgetting our own dress shoes...
Thanks to the Tanneries d'Annonay and our Barker Shoes workshop, we have developed real bootmaking know-how: assembly in England from A to Z.
