We had already told you about this new arrival on the shoe planet, which caught our eye.
With its 100% French manufacturing, its fair prices and its refined styles, Jacques & Déméter is a brand that we love! It was founded by Maxime and Valentine and powered by the Ulule platform, illustrating the importance and relevance of crowdfunding for small entrepreneurs who wish to get started.
I had a few questions to ask them before moving on to testing a pair of double loops.
Portraits of Valentine and Maxime, the founders of the brand.
Interview with Valentine and Maxime, founders of Jacques & Déméter
First, why the shoes?
It came very simply: with Valentine, we had wanted to get started for a while. We discussed it a lot and quickly realized that we wanted to live from a common passion.
Furthermore, not coming from the fashion world, we could not imagine offering a complete wardrobe. Shoes are a small part of an outfit, but they say a lot about the wearer. Our objective is just as simple: to offer high-end shoes (manufacturing and materials), at the fairest possible price thanks to a short and direct distribution channel.
Indeed, when we look in more detail at the different stages of the manufacturing process, the notion of short circuit takes on its full meaning:
Today, “Made in France” is extremely exposed in the media. Beyond the image, what appealed to you most about the idea of having everything manufactured in France?
“ Made in France ” has been there from the very beginning (genesis of the project in our heads in mid-2010). I have already said it elsewhere but, even if we also had other considerations in mind, producing in France has a very practical aspect for us.
As we want to be able to supervise and monitor the entire manufacturing process at all times, it is much simpler to have our shoes manufactured where we can go easily and regularly.
Furthermore, there is, for shoes, real know-how - historical and renowned - in France. Whether for manufacturing or for leather. So why want to go and do elsewhere what you can (very well) do here?
A very old tannery near Annonay.
In this context, what do you think of competition from other manufacturers in countries with cheaper/inexpensive labor?
When we know the cost of quality leather and the labor time required to manufacture a pair of shoes, it is simply impossible to offer top-of-the-range products while respecting workers' rights and using quality raw materials below a certain manufacturing cost (and therefore a certain selling price).
Manufacturers with low labor costs necessarily ignore one or all of these aspects. Producing in France is also a way of saying that we are attached to certain values.
Ethiopia is a new shoe paradise: it has the cheapest labor in the world... $50 per month.
Values such as sustainability and “consuming better” for example?
By having our shoes made in France and using French calfskin (Tanneries of Puy and Degermann), we are approaching the notion of sustainable development.
Our shoes do not travel around the planet 3 times before being delivered to our customers and the leathers we use have a limited impact on the environment .
In addition, on our blog, I try to explain that by properly and regularly maintaining a pair of shoes, by having them repaired by a shoemaker when necessary, it is entirely possible to keep them for many, many years. years. We are therefore not in the literal definition of sustainable development, but in an approach of consuming less and above all consuming better, by trying to reduce disposable purchases.
On the blog , you will find lots of advice on how to best care for your shoes.
Since we're talking about sustainability, is it better to have low-polluting vegetable tanning or a more "robust" chrome tanning?
For shoemaking, there are very few vegetable-tanned leathers, for the simple reason that these leathers are less resistant and the possibilities more limited than with chrome-tanned leathers.
So from a quality point of view for shoes, it is not possible, today, to obtain such good leather with vegetable tanning .
On an environmental level, technological progress and regulatory constraints on European tanneries mean that things are moving in the right direction.
Boxcalf (chrome-tanned calf) has an incredibly smooth texture!
The problem with chrome tanning is more related to countries where regulations are more lax . This leads to negligence with disastrous consequences for the environment and the health of those working in these tanneries.
But the debate is a good thing, because it puts the problems in the public arena and moves away from an industry: it is the best way for the different actors to ensure that things change.
In India, a paradise for low-end leather, tannery employees are not always protected and literally wade in substances considered highly toxic.
In terms of style, how do you design your models?
Initially, there is always a type of shoe that we like; that, personally, I want to wear, to make my own. It could be something contemporary, but it could also be a much older shoe model.
The styles offered are quite varied, there is something for everyone!
This allows us, ultimately, to address those who want to be well-shod, without wearing what I call “minister's shoes” (the archetype of which is the black cap-toe brogue). I'm not saying that these models aren't beautiful, just that they're not the kind of shoes I wear on a daily basis.
To finish... Is your business viable today? What are the medium/long term projects?
It all depends on what we mean by viable: I haven't been able to buy the coat of my dreams from Loro Piana or a Patrimony from Vacheron Constantin, but we eat our fill and we indulge, from time to time. another, a few days of rest in the sun!
The place in the sun or the watch? The dilemma.
In the medium term, we will continue to develop our ready-to-wear range because there are so many legendary and essential models that we want to revisit...
Then, in the long term, we are overflowing with ideas: setting up a “Made To Order” service, limited series with exotic leathers, leather goods line, physical store, etc. Projects abound !
Double loop test at Jacques & Déméter
Now let's get down to business, as I suggest you take a closer look at the work proposed by the young brand!
It's been several months now since I fell in love with this pair, so I'm going to give you feedback based on my experience. The model itself has (re)become a basic: double buckle shoes (sometimes called monk straps) are elegant and refined .
With suit pants or any other dressy bottom, they match perfectly; even more so if the pants are cut at the bottom, that is to say above the ankle.
However, I regularly wear them with jeans quite close to the leg, turning them up a little. So, very concretely, a model that is not made to stay in the closet!
First, focus on the general appearance and quality of the skin, before moving on to editing and details. If you are really new to leather, I advise you to quickly read the first but especially the second part of the guide dedicated to the quality of leather.
The leather of the double buckles
As you now know, the brand works with tanneries particularly renowned for their know-how , and it shows. The grain of the leather is as fine as it is regular, a winning combination that doesn't lie: on full grain, the slightest mosquito bite or grain is obvious.
The feeling to the touch is extremely pleasant, the material is soft, smooth and sensual.
At the simple sight: a homogeneous texture which is adorned with deep and matte reflections, enhanced by the metallic shine of the curls.
The grain is absolutely perfect seen up close! The texture is really very pleasant and the color very intense.
We will notice relatively discreet comfort creases: a quality, well-tanned skin will have the ability not to mark the folds too much, which greatly contributes to the aesthetics of the shoe. In short, nothing to say about the general appearance: the tannery honors the highest expectations that one can have in terms of French manufacturing.
You can see the fold, but it remains very discreet in my opinion.
How to mount the double loops?
As a reminder: the blake montage.
Despite the presence of small stitching points on the outsole which may be reminiscent of Goodyear, we are in the presence of Blake stitching under engraving. The difference with a classic blake?
You just have to turn the shoe over to find out: no stitches appear, quite simply because the small groove housing the seams is closed to protect the thread. Maxime specified that a quality engraving should not be too deep so as not to weaken the sole, but enough to properly protect the seam.
The model is not exactly the same: mine are sole... No matter! because we can clearly see the seam groove on the edges which has been impeccably closed, then smoothed.
Goodyear is often presented as a paragon of quality and durability: I believe, however, that Blake easily rivals Goodyear in practice, even if on paper this is not necessarily the case.
Photo difficult to take, but you can distinguish the presence of the 2 wires by point.
Everything indicates that the assembly here is perfectly carried out: no "weakness" of the leather after numerous wearings which could have betrayed irregular assembly or poor cutting of the leather.
The points visible inside the shoe (under the insole) are called "knotted" and therefore made with 2 threads: here too, the work is clean and regular. Same remark for those visible on the outside: they serve to reinforce the solidity of the sole and complement the bonding of the different slices of leather making up the sole.
The stitches are clean, regular and tight.
Shoe details
The suede leather at the rear reinforcement is pleasant. A little brushing on the inside is necessary from time to time: this leather tends to pick up a few small pills if you wear wool socks.
The upper and the assembly of the different leather cuts indicate serious work: the reinforcements at the back of the shoe hold the heel , and I have not had any blister at this level despite intensive wear ...during fashion week = marathon! The seams are fine, regular but rare; because the design of the shoe offers a large surface of unpatched leather.
We are around 6/7 points per centimeter!
The fit of the shoe is impeccable, which is not always the case even on shoes at equivalent prices: the heel is perfectly placed, and the front shows a slight curve on the toe.
I had a pad fitted to protect the sole, but the part remaining visible confirms good skin quality. The heel has a rubber insert, which avoids having to have it protected in the medium term: the exposed leather will gradually smooth out.
The heel and toe lie perfectly flat.
I would, however, have a few small comments regarding the finish, particularly on the buckles. The straps intended to be buckled rub against the metal, which generates small “shreds” of skin. To remedy this, there are several possibilities such as waxing the edge, or even tarring. Maxime told me that this is a detail that is already intended to be improved on future series: the edges will be filled: that is to say that in addition to being trimmed (flattened), the leather will be folded on itself for a perfect finish.
The finish of the straps is the only negative point that I could note.
Despite this small detail, you will have understood that I am fully committed to purchasing a pair of Jacques & Déméter .
For the quality of course, because the work carried out is really clean and honorable , and then it is a PLEASURE to maintain a workforce that is qualified and, above all, respected for its know-how.
For the approach too! At a time when everyone considers French manufacturing reserved only for large Houses, these two entrepreneurs remind us that with the determination that was theirs, the project of a product like shoes 100% made in France has nothing to do with it. 'Utopian.
Finally, the last important point: the price. At €375, it seems expensive, but we are really on a fair price, guaranteeing a quality purchase on the one hand, and fair remuneration for the entire chain behind it.
Find the pair of double loops on the Jacques & Déméter website .
You can also take a look at the Jacques & Déméter blog , where you will find good advice.
