This is a somewhat special article for me, because I'm going to talk about a type of piece that I wasn't used to wearing at all, and that I discovered a few months ago.
I often wear and write about blazers, shirts, sweatshirts, pants, jeans. But I had never explored the possibilities of a sleeveless vest, because I had a rather "80s" image of this item of clothing since Back to the Future :
That was the quilted vest before the Cadot brand.
It was a product that I didn't necessarily understand before meeting Guillaume Cadot , founder of his eponymous brand, specializing in sleeveless flannel vests.
Who is Guillaume Cadot?
On a product with such a need for explanation , it is first necessary to understand Guillaume's journey, because many elements allowed him to mature his thoughts. I'm going to take the time to explain it to you, because it's quite rare for a creator to talk to me about their history, and the repercussions on their work, with such a level of detail.
Guillaume therefore comes from the Lyon region, where he was immersed in a particular family environment:
- some members of his family had food professions which, he says, made him aware from a very young age of beautiful authentic products ,
- others were weavers in the field of silk, which instilled in him very early on a culture of textiles and beautiful fabrics ,
- and finally, there was a real passion for cycling, motorcycles and more particularly motor sports, hence a search for stylish but comfortable clothing for driving .
This crucible therefore allowed him to have a product, textile and functional sensitivity.
Brad Pitt's biker use of the sleeveless jacket (in case you doubt the very masculine potential of this garment).
He told me he often went shopping when he was a child. He also subscribed to Vogue Homme at 14 (at a time when the paper press reigned supreme), and after saving for a long time, he bought his first pair of Westons at 15 (note that at the time, the prices were not the same).
And like many current designers, he will begin with work in a company that has nothing to do with fashion: La Française des Jeux, where he will develop various concepts. He realized at that moment that he liked to create and imagine new things (note this point, it is important for the rest).
Then, as a great design enthusiast, he joined the famous NellyRodi trend office, where he plunged right into a world of fashion, research and avant-garde.
A very marked Italian sensitivity
At the same time, he married a Franco-Italian woman from Tuscany. And as the Italy of the magazines made him dream, he will make numerous trips to our transalpine friends, more particularly to Forte Dei Marmi, a fairly trendy Tuscan seaside resort.
“Over there, it’s Pitti Uomo, Benoit beach version! You’d love it,” he told me.
It was by seeing this type of typically Italian outfit that Guillaume had the idea of launching Cadot. However, he wanted a less imposing collar.
And he will notice that Italians often wear quilted sleeveless vests so as not to be cold when it is windy, but light enough to be worn at the beach in mild temperatures.
He then realizes that in many sports, "sleeveless" is practical and comfortable , whether for horse riding, fishing, motoring, or even hunting. And he is starting to like more and more this garment which shapes the figure, and which can be carried and worn absolutely everywhere.
And then one day, while he was thinking about this concept, he noticed a flannel and nylon "sleeveless" worn over a jacket in a window. That’s what clicked: “but why don’t I make one that’s only made of flannel?”
It's hard to believe until you see it in photos, but it is entirely possible to wear a quilted vest with a very elegant outfit. There is, however, a small nuance in this specific case: the vest is systematically open to clearly show the tie and the buttoned jacket.
The idea is relevant, because if you can easily find this type of nylon garment, with a very sportswear design, it's another kettle of fish (if I may say so) to find one with an elegant design .
At the same time, Guillaume regularly writes for Intersection magazine : a curious media that combines "mobility and style", which has influenced his vision of fashion, where practicality must be stylish . It was enough for him to decide to embark on the adventure by creating the Cadot brand, from his last name.
Today, the brand's offering is very readable: a beautiful sleeveless jacket, in flannel, well-fitted, with light quilting, practical and elegant. Now is the time to get into the details!
The Cadot sleeveless jacket
Here worn with Bold Boys raw jeans, but completely adaptable over a suit. Benjamin Jezequel sweatshirt, BGNS-02 sneakers. We can see that the vest is perfectly fitted to my bust.
First of all, a little warning is in order... Be careful, this is NOT a sleeveless down jacket, and Guillaume insists on this point. The padding is not down (otherwise the piece would easily exceed €300) but in Primaloft wadding , which makes it lighter and easier to slip between two items of clothing (this point is central to Cadot). But then what can the room be used for?
Well, first of all, know that there is no season on this product. Guillaume had noticed that the Italians wore them all year round: over a shirt or a sweater on a slightly cool evening in summer, or under a parka or a coat, as an additional product . This is why he insists on the fact that it is absolutely not a sleeveless down jacket.
This garment becomes almost playful, because it is fun to look for all the possible combinations . For example, some will have fun wearing it over a blazer (in Pitti mode activated), while others will prefer to place it between the shirt and the blazer.
The more casual among you will enjoy wearing it with a sweatshirt or even a chunky knit cardigan (William from Six & Sept is a fan of this combination with a Cadot cardigan).
Tie, shirt, denim jacket and vest at The Urban Gentleman. The whole thing is atypical, but works very well as an "elegant and casual" example. Note: this is not a Cadot piece in the photo.
The material is wool flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico. You won't be disappointed with the quality: it's 100% wool, beautiful, elegant, and with a beautiful color . As for the lining, it's a cotton found in Portugal.
Gray and burgundy are two colors that I really like to mix. The shoulder cut on this piece is perfect.
There is a double metal zip from YKK . It may seem surprising to have one on such a short garment, but Guillaume likes to see how the Italians play with it to give the impression that it is a jacket with only one button (by completely pulling down the top zip, and slightly raising the bottom one). All pockets (exterior and interior) are also equipped with a metal zip, a very good point.
From a purely design point of view, I appreciated that the seams of the padded compartments were not too far from each other, because otherwise you end up with a more sportswear design.
In terms of manufacturing, quality, and design, it is very difficult to fault this product. It's elegant, well thought out and super practical . All at a very reasonable price of less than €200 (normally, on a flannel garment of this type, it is more expensive).
The feeling of wearing a sleeveless jacket
Having never worn “sleeveless” as Guillaume calls it, I was curious to see the result. No need to prolong the suspense: it's great. Or rather: it has now become one of my essential items of clothing.
The fact that there are no sleeves allows for good regulation of excess heat in the armpits , and above all, great comfort for moving your arms. It's quite complicated to describe, but there is a perfect thermal balance.
The Primaloft wadding and flannel play their roles well, there is a kind of enveloping warmth that is very pleasant when you wear it closed. The feeling is different from a sweater, you feel freer in terms of movement.
Fun detail: by lightly pulling the bottom of the chest pocket, you can give it a “pocket” effect.
In fact, in all cases where you feel that you are missing a layer so as not to be cold , but without bothering to change clothes, you just need to put on your "sleeveless" underneath... or above:
- you are wearing a coat and you are still cold,
- you're just wearing a sweatshirt in spring, it's still a little cold, but you don't want to wear a jacket,
- you want to wear your trench coat, but it's still a little chilly.
These are all situations where you will be very happy to have a quilted vest on hand!
Cadot's greatest strength is to have imagined an elegant, light and extremely versatile version . He carefully avoided the pitfall of making it too sportswear by using flannel, and not shiny nylon.
The quilted vest is also available in Vitale Barberis Canonico brown flannel.
That said, he is preparing versions of his vest in technical flannels, we will know more in a few months...
Visually, the silhouette is interesting, since this vest slightly sheathes the bust, without affecting the proportions of the arms and shoulders: this gives a rather sporty silhouette.
Guillaume, a great admirer of the art of tailoring, is very sensitive to well-fitted cuts, and we must recognize that the bending is perfectly measured .
What is the use of the Cadot sleeveless?
It's perfect with a windbreaker, because the sleeveless provides an envelope of warmth underneath a waterproof material, where some softshells are not necessarily warm enough.
It's also the ultimate piece of clothing for traveling and flying. Indeed, the four zipped pockets (a very simple detail, but so practical when it is on ALL the pockets of an item of clothing) allow you to slip in your passport and boarding pass on the fly, and have easy access to them. In addition, it is the lethal weapon against excessive air conditioning in mid-flight .
Finally, when you fold the garment, it takes up very little space in the suitcase (the absence of sleeves takes away even more thickness to store).
No risk of losing your headphones with this kind of zipped pocket!
So we have: functional clothing + elegant material + super thermal power against bad air conditioning + reduced size to store = perfect travel clothing.
I'm talking about the plane, but this garment will find its place perfectly if you are a driver, because once again, the absence of sleeves is a joy for movements with outstretched arms. For my part, he never leaves my side when I go away for the weekend.
And finally, all users of two wheels (motorcycle, moped, and bicycle) will find a lot of interest in this product, which keeps you warm while leaving your armpits ventilated .
Once again, it's literally a Swiss army knife garment, which is useful all the time, in all seasons, in all occasions. I sometimes even found myself keeping it in the office in the morning while the radiators heated the room in winter.
A final word on the new Cadot products
When he came to collect my sleeveless vest, Guillaume had just received new products: two blazers. There is a totally soft one (no padding on the shoulders) in navy blue wool, and another quilted in water-repellent nylon .
Regarding the cut, surprise: it's perfectly cut! The shoulders, the bend, everything is perfect, nothing to complain about. The absence of padding makes these jackets very flexible and comfortable to wear.
Concerning the wool jacket , for less than €250, it is a very serious option for those who want a basic and reliable jacket with a (very) reasonable budget.
The Molton jacket in water-repellent nylon and the Primo jacket in wool flannel.
As for the nylon jacket , it is the ultimate piece for elegant people who are too hot in a coat, and too cold just in a jacket, during autumn or the early spring. It's really beautiful and perfectly fitted.
While I didn't see it coming in this area, Cadot is definitely a brand to watch closely if you are looking for a blazer with excellent value for money (at this price, it is absolutely unbeatable: €245 for a Vitale Barberis flannel jacket!
My opinion on the Cadot brand
Few things to say about this perfectly well designed and accomplished garment . Originally, I had no affinity for this type of piece, and it is clear that I wear it several times a week, going I have a hard time parting with it .
Funny thing: when I lent it in the evening to friends who wanted to go outside to smoke looking for ice cubes, they didn't give it back to me spontaneously.
Last thing, if you are looking for outfits for inspiration, you can refer to Guillaume Cadot's blog , which represents his world well. For example, he regularly posts his clothes worn by himself:
Back to the city #Cadot #monocle #primojacket #bluetie #cuissedegrenouille #blueshirt #lagencefrancaise
