Buying guide for your leather shoes: how to find your shoe style (Part 4)

Tell me.

Wouldn't you be looking for a pair of shoes that can go with both a work suit and jeans for the weekend?

This is probably the request I've heard the most as a shoe seller.

So, let me answer for all the shoe sellers in the world: there is no such thing.

It would be like asking a wine merchant: “I would like a wine that goes as well with a tournedos as with a wedding cake.”

No, it doesn't exist.

And that's good. This means that some common sense rules remain and that wearing a suit does not have the same aesthetic sense as wearing jeans. This means that we still have eyes to see the differences, to see that clothing is not a banal act of disguise but that a style is part of a context, that it requires care, of the mind, a certain awareness of what surrounds us and, also, a sense of the other .

So why do some people persist in thinking that there is such a pair of shoes? This is because they confuse elegance and formalism.

Elegance is appreciated in relation to an outfit.

Formalism is judged in absolute terms, piece by piece.

Let me explain: there are moccasins, very elegant when paired with the right pants, which will never go with a three-piece navy blue suit in cold wool. For what ? Because it's not the same level of formalism.

More than elegance, it is formalism that we must know how to understand. The objective of this article is to give you the keys to being able to judge for yourself the level of formality of a piece you encounter on a web page or in a store.

So how to do it?

FIRST OF ALL: AUTOPSY OF A PAIR OF SHOES

It's just a reminder, so that you can clearly visualize the parts of the shoe mentioned throughout the article.

THE GREAT GENERAL PRINCIPLE OF FORMALISM:

A question: how can the formal character of a piece be demonstrated?

Let's take the example of the suit: it is the most formal thing a man has at his disposal (we will pass on the tailcoat, the tuxedo and the morning coat which have a particular status).

Are all costumes equal in the effect they produce? Are two men, as long as they wear a suit, on the same formal level? Or do aesthetic rules a priori condition the use of this piece in one context rather than another?

Ok so we observe that not all costumes are equal .

The very high level of formalism of the first is characterized by:

• A smooth cold wool;
• A dark color;
• Double breasted;
• Peak lapels;
• Welt pockets;
• An absence of motive;
• Structured shoulders with rollino.

Concerning the second costume, we have:

• A heavy, textured wool;
• A two-color pattern;
• Tailored lapels;
• An unstructured jacket;
• Probably flap or patch pockets (if we could see).

With all these elements, we understand that we will not use the second suit for a traditional wedding or a formal ceremony. And the first suit will have difficulty being used in a context where wearing a suit is recommended but not obligatory, such as a country wedding as is the fashion.

Do you understand ?

A formal room will induce a withdrawal of self. A formal look is sober, economical, it does not include too many visual elements which create “noise” in and around the silhouette. A room is formal when it refocuses on the essential, when its aesthetic serves the structure of the room and does not distract with too heavy elements.

For a suit therefore, the texture, the patterns, the pocket flaps, a patch chest pocket, all these elements make the suit heavier .

For a shirt, it will be a buttoned collar, the presence of a chest pocket (or two, with bellows!), a thick fabric, darts in the back. Unlike a white poplin shirt with a French or cut-away collar with a hidden throat.

Well, the same goes for shoes.

When we talk about types of shoes, two main categories come to mind: brogues (oxfords in English) and derbies. Arbitration is often made between the two.

Should I wear one or should I wear the other?

So, how will the level of formality of these two categories of shoes differentiate a priori?

Why will the brogue, whatever it is, always be more formal than the derby?

It is necessary to understand their structure in order to evaluate their respective level of formalism.

The model on the right, the derby, is heavier in its structure.

It has guarantors sewn over the upper which weigh down the lines of the shoe , adding new plastic elements: volume, leather over the leather of the upper (you can see this in the lacing which is open).

The guarantors of the brogue are sewn in the continuity of the upper . No extra leather or volume. We see it with the lacing which is closed. The seams are in the structure of the shoe itself.

This fundamental difference supersedes all others: whatever we do, whatever we say, the brogue will always be more formal than the derby. And that's why the brogue will be welcome with a suit and the derby will not. Don't try to take a black derby, as clean as possible, to wear with a suit, it does not work.

And, in the same way, you cannot wear brogue with jeans or chinos . What doesn't work: too many differences in the level of formalism.

Take nice derbies instead. When I see a guy in one-cuts and jeans, it reminds me of someone wearing a tuxedo with fins. It has the same effect on me. Really.

Ok. Now that this main principle is established to evaluate the formalism of a piece, let's move on to more details.

6 ELEMENTS THAT MODULATE THE FORMAL CHARACTER OF A ROOM

THE COLOUR

"No brown in town!" This is an old, rigorous maxim that is now outdated.

But it is interesting to understand why it took place. The idea that brown had no place in the city was that black was reserved for business, for serious things , that, when you went to the city, you had to show a certain discretion in your dress, a certain formalism.

Black is the color of self-withdrawal. This is where it is most formal. This is also the reason why men's tuxedos are black, to stand out less and so that their companions next to them are better highlighted.

Blackness is therefore: being forgotten and bowing your neck to established social rules.

Thus, brown is less formal and the lighter you go, the more relaxed the shoe model: a black brogue is more formal than a brown and, in the same way, a black derby is more formal than a brown. But, to the extent that the main principle of structure takes precedence: a black derby will be less formal than a brown brogue.

As for the other colors, eggplant (or burgundy) for the most part, it is more original because it is rarer but will, in my opinion, be equivalent to brown in its effect if it is taken in the same shade. So much so that an eggplant one-cut brogue, therefore dark, will have the same level of formality as a dark brown one-cut brogue.

THE MATERIAL

Logically, smooth leather is the most formal! Next come velvet (or nubuck) and grained. The relief makes the shoe heavier.

Moreover, it is very rare for grained leather to be used to make an oxford. Velvet is much less rare, however.

MOUNTING

The reason why Berluti builds his models in Blake comes largely from the fact that it refines his models (this is also Caulaincourt 's choice). Thus, the brand obtains shoes of great finesse.

The principle is simple: the more visible seams, the less formal the pair . However, to say that, for the same type of brogue, the Blake stitched will be more formal than the GoodYear, I am not sure. We have to see in practice.

But what is certain, however, is that between these two models of derby, there is indeed a difference in formality.

The clearly visible, and even contrasting, seams bring much more relaxation to the model. But that's not all, the thicker rubber sole also plays a big role.

THE SOLE

A gum (rubber) sole will be visually heavier and therefore less formal. However, you can find rubber soles that are thin enough to pass for leather soles.

THE SEAMS

If we still follow the basic principle, the more seams a model has, the less formal it will be considered.

Let's take the one-cut brogue because it's quite telling.

The presence of seams on the Carmina makes it a less formal model (a cap toe in this case). However, this does not mean that it is not formal. On the contrary, it is one of the most formal models available. But it is just a little less so than the one-cut , which is more refined and seamless.

PERFORATIONS

In the excellent Kingsman, Colin Firth's character teaches his young ward the basics of elegance. Or rather formalism, as he himself says. We understand that broguing , namely the perforations that decorate the upper, makes a shoe less formal . “ Oxfords, not Brogues ” is a rule to follow to the letter according to him: always favor oxfords without perforations.

Good. This needs to be qualified. It's one of the old sartorial rules that no longer has any reason to exist in our lives less punctuated by etiquette (norms, decorum).

If, in the past, the perforations were used to evacuate water from the shoes of those who ventured into the humid countryside or even worked in leather shoes, now they are purely decorative. And I think we can say that shoes that have subtle and regular perforations are very aesthetic. But, Colin Firth's character is right, less formal.

This is logical since broguing adds visual elements and therefore a certain heaviness.

Although, once again, an oxford with perforations will always be more formal than a derby without.

Let's review the different types of broguing that exist:

THE FULL BROGUE

It can be an oxford or a derby.

It is the shoe with the most perforations, it is therefore the least formal . But be careful, it is not enough to count the holes to know that you are dealing with a full brogue .

To be a full brogue , the shoe must have perforations on five elements:

• The hard toe (which must also be W-shaped, it is the wing-cap toe );
• The slap (under the laces);
• The quarters (right and left of the eyelets);
• The flanks ;
• The foothills.

THE SEMI BROGUE

Same characteristics as the full brogue with the exception of the wing cap : instead we have a toe cap ( or "right end" in French).

THE QUARTER BROGUE

It can have a straight toe ( cap toe ) or a W-shaped toe ( wing-cap ), but it is more generally found with the straight toe. The difference with the full brogue is that it does not have a medallion on the hard toe. It has fewer perforations, it is the most formal of brogues .

We find it a lot in business circles, because it's a way to add a little fantasy when you wear one-cut or cap-toe brogues every day, which are a little austere in the long run.

THE LONGWING BROGUE

It is found a lot on American brands. Quite little elsewhere. But it's a very appreciable model when it's interpreted in a derby form, I think. Moreover, we find very few longwing brogue brogues, as the aesthetics of the perforations arranged in this way better suit the casual style of a derby.

So much for broguing . Of course, there are perforations on other models, such as double loops. So if we only have to remember one thing: the more perforations there are, the less formal the model.

Speaking of double-loops, I think it's time to take a closer look at certain particular cases.

SPECIAL CASES

If you trust your common sense, there should be no problem. You can now come across any pair of shoes, you have the keys to understanding the level of formality of the shoe.

And so you know what it can be used with and in what context. You have to trust yourself.

However, some models may seem more difficult to understand. I still say that with common sense you can get through this but it is still useful to see them together. If I had forgotten any, I am waiting for your comment to discuss it together.

MOCCASINS: SNEAKERS BUT BETTER

It doesn't cover the entire foot, it doesn't have a lace. Its structure means that it is much less dressed. Wearing loafers with your jeans and chinos isn't the worst idea you could have. In summer, the bleach jeans outfit (a good old Levi's 501), with a white t-shirt and moccasins, we couldn't do anything better.

But then rather round moccasins like the Weston 180.

If you really want to pair loafers with pieces on a higher formal level, I recommend mismatching. A sports jacket and dress pants.

PS: for boat shoes, it's the same level of formalism, even a notch lower.

THE CASE OF PATENT SHOES: THE SUMMUM OF FORMAL?

I'm not going to beat myself up: patent shoes are an aberration and you should avoid them. If we apply the same logic that I developed in the second part of this guide and explained in the first , concerning rectified leathers , it is highly possible that brands that produce patent leather shoes use medium to poor quality leathers.

Why coat it with a layer of varnish if the leather is beautiful?

And even patent leathers were born with the industrialization of shoe production. Historically,when we wanted shiny shoes , it was enough to glaze the hard toe and the buttresses of his most beautiful brogues.

So yes, formal black shoes with the hard tips glazed are also formal, but you should not fall into the trap of industrially varnished shoes.

DOUBLE LOOPS: WHAT ARE THEY EXACTLY?

Ah! The right question!

To tell you a secret, know that when I worked for a shoemaker, around 70% of people aged around 20 to 35 asked me for double buckles.

These shoes, which were a bit outdated, once again have a certain appeal. So much the better !

You may be looking for this type of shoe yourself, without really knowing why. You are intrigued by this model. Maybe you have a co-worker who has a pair or two. You want to take the plunge but you don't know if you really should.

If we put the model to the formalism test, how would you evaluate it?

It's still a busy model, don't you think? The two loops first. And then the construction: it’s a derby when you think about it! The guarantor starting from the inside of the shoe is only longer than the one on the outside but it remains an open system.

It is therefore less formal than an oxford.

But, given that it is now part of the Wall Street look accompanied by the striped suit and the shirt with a contrasting collar, and also that it has been adopted (the word is weak!) by all the peacocks of Pitti, I would say this is the only derby that is acceptable with a formal suit. However, be careful of the immediate and inevitable connotations.

I would rather recommend wearing it in a mismatched outfit, or at least an outfit that would take into account the fact that this model is a bit particular, that it is a bit at the crossroads between formal and informal.

See Alessandro Squarzi for example.

If you want to wear it with a classic suit, this should inspire you:

I find that, in this way, we pay homage to the ambivalent nature of double-loops. I'm sorry, it's Squarzi again, but I think he knows how to wear them.

THE SPECTATOR SHOES: I VERY WANT TO WEAR THIS BUT I DON'T KNOW IN WHICH CONTEXT

With a model like this, you attract attention. Unless you really know what you're doing, I don't recommend it.

It's a model that looks vintage, 20s, 30s, it looks like Fred Astaire.

The level of formality of the spectator shoe obviously depends on the shape it takes: derby or brogue. However, the black and white, by their contrast, mean that it is not really formal. In addition, the numerous perforations that characterize them make them shoes to be reserved for relaxing occasions.

It is difficult to be formal and original.

THE ANKLE BOOTS

The same general principles that we saw for brogues and derbies apply to ankle boots: construction, material, colors, perforations, sole and assembly. So much so that you can absolutely find formal ankle boots to wear in winter with your formal suits and conversely ankle boots (but that goes without saying) to wear casually.

There are oxford boots:

Derby boots:

WILL THE SHAPE OF THE SHOE HAVE AN IMPACT ON THE FORMALITY OF IT?

Yes and no. This especially affects elegance.

But since the choice of shape must above all be dictated by the body (as seen in the third part of this guide ), I would say that this should not come into play.

The thin models are said to be more elegant by some and others believe that on the contrary they are more the round ones. But no one is right.

If the roundness of the model corresponds to your foot and, what's more, it suits the proportions of your outfit, then you will succeed in achieving a great level of elegance.

INSPIRATION

HOW TO WEAR A FORMAL OXFORD PROPERLY

OLD-FASHIONED, BLACK OXFORDS AND GRAY SUIT:

For very formal occasions. I recommend black one-cut or cap toe brogues. This works with all gray suits and blues (night to navy). The tie should be simple, a tie with very small white dots for example. And the white or blue poplin shirt.

MORE CONTEMPORARY, NAVY SUIT AND BROWN VELVET OXFORDS:

Here, the brogues are brown and suede. But, this outfit would have worked with brown smooth leather shoes. Note that there is no need to overdo it when you have a suit that is perfectly cut for your body type.

These brogues can very well be imagined in a mismatched outfit.

HOW TO WEAR A DERBY WELL

AMERICAN STYLE, WITH JEANS AND A SPORTS JACKET:

ENGLISH STYLE, FLANNEL TROUSERS AND CARDIGAN:

CASUAL CHIC, FOR EVERY DAY:

MORE INSPIRATIONS, JUST LIKE THIS:

THE FINAL WORD...

Not all shoes go with all suits just because they are leather.

If you put on a very formal shoe with jeans, you won't look "classier."

To dress well, it is essential to construct your outfits according to the level of formality of the pieces that you bring into resonance in an outfit: if you want to wear oxfords in a casual way, you will have to choose a model that , by the color, the material, the assembly etc., will reduce the difference in formality between this pair of shoes and the casual pieces with which you will associate it.

If you had to choose only one pair of leather shoes, I would advise you to get them in eggplant or burgundy. For me, it is the color that allows the most combinations of colors and styles. What do you think ?

Elegant men's shoes: brogues and boots made in England. Chelsea boots, built in the purest English bootmaking tradition. Only the best for your feet.