Buying guide for your leather shoes: the method for choosing the right size and shape (Part 3)

Thank you for being there.

Have you read the first part? It describes how we go from skin to leather, then from leather to shoes.

And the second part, to know if the shoes you want to buy will be durable or not ?

If you haven't read them, I encourage you to do so because they help put everything we're going to see now into perspective.

Good reading !

Without further ado, I would like to throw a wrench into the pond: there is no such thing as one foot that is the same as another.

Well, I don't know every foot in the world, but I have my sources.

This implies two things:

1. You don't have the same feet as everyone else
2. Your two feet are not both the same

And you have already verified this through experience: for example, when you were tight in the left shoe and comfortable in the right, or vice versa.

And knowing that an ill-fitting pair of shoes will deform and age prematurely and that it can also cause posture, back, knee and foot problems , we say to ourselves that, to do well, everyone should not only own custom-made pairs. It's logic.

Except it costs a few thousand euros. I'm talking about just one pair of custom-made shoes.

It’s a game changer.

What this changes above all is that as consumers with our physical characteristics, we are forced to deal with an offer (ready-to-wear) which will never completely respond to our morphological data.

It's very important to keep this in mind.

The aim of this article is therefore to help you find the best compromise, among the ready-to-wear offering, to enable you to choose the shoes that are closest to your ideal shoes.

Come on, I'll explain how to find the right shoe for you. You are not immune to discovering a couple of little things along the way.

GETTING TO KNOW YOUR FEET

No choice.

Any reflection on style begins with a reflection on the body. I like to repeat it in my articles, but if you want to dress elegantly, you must first know your body inside out.

Knowing how to enhance your body isn't just a question of style. In fact, it's even first and foremost a question of comfort. Physical and psychological comfort: both my feelings are good in this garment and also, it reinforces my idea of ​​what suits me.

Feet are the same.

There are four main variables that cause foot dimensions to vary:

1. Its length;
2. Its width;
3. His instep (the upper part of the foot, just under the laces);
4. His arch (flat foot?).

We immediately understand that making a 43 doesn't mean much . This indication (only European by the way!) only applies to the length. A 43, okay, but do you have wide or narrow feet? A strong or weak instep? Flat or arched foot?

EXERCISE AT HOME

What is your shoe size ?

Hmm. Are you sure ?

Well, that's what we'll see right away.

To do things right, you will therefore have to bring out the triple decimeter and put on socks (standard) and at a time when the foot is not swollen (in the middle of the day rather).

You will then need to provide yourself with a fine pencil and a sheet of A4 paper.

Place your foot on the sheet and, with your pencil perpendicular to the ground, trace its outline. Do the same for your other foot.

Then measure the maximum length and width of each leg.

What does that give?

Now, all you have to do is look in this table at your theoretical sizes according to country.

Are you surprised, or is this consistent with your usual shoe size?

In any case, it doesn't matter, since with the result of these measures, you start again on new bases .

When it comes to the shoe shape that best suits you, more than measuring the width, it is above all observation that will give you the direction: does the foot seem rather thin and long? rather short and wide? rather very wide? This is an indication that you will want to share with the seller .

Concerning the instep, you will have to try a Richelieu. In my opinion, this is the best way to know if you have a strong instep or not because, due to the construction of the Richelieu (guarantors 2 sewn in the continuity of the upper unlike Derbys whose guarantors are built on it) you will quickly know if your foot is pushing just under the laces (does the opening of the laces make a very wide “V”?).

Concerning the arch of the foot, simply observe your foot when you are standing to see if you notice this arch precisely or if the foot is in contact with the collar over its entire length (= flat foot).

So. Now you know more about your feet. Did you write everything down? Well, that's perfect, you can then go to the store.

ABOUT BRANNOCK

This tool will only be of partial help in determining your suitable size and shape since it evaluates the foot in two dimensions (length and width) whereas it is assessed in 3D! Besides, having tried it, I noticed notable differences with my real size and shape.

In fact, as I explain just after, the size and shape are an interpretation of each brand and, for that alone, the Brannock is not the Holy Grail.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU BUY

You have the measurements of your feet in hand and an idea of ​​your size in mind. But it is not yet won.

Why it's complicated:

Your ideal pair of shoes should be long enough to allow the foot not to touch the hard toe, but not so long that there is excess material detrimental to the wearer's comfort. But also, it must be wide enough to accommodate the foot when it is at its maximum spread on the ground but at the same time hold it well to prevent the shoe from moving too much, once in the air, at the risk of injure the wearer. In this way, the arch of the foot is supported, you walk in good conditions.

OK.

Ah yes, but that's not all.

I'm really sorry to disappoint you but, no, there is no great universal size chart . In fact, everything changes from one country to another.

WHY YOU NEVER ARE THE SAME SIZE

DIFFERENT SIZES ACCORDING TO COUNTRIES

• In France, for example, there are three sizes in 2cm. Which is 0.666cm per size.
• In England, the unit is no longer the centimeter, but the inch (1 inch = 2.54cm) and the difference between two sizes is ⅓ of an inch, or 0.846cm.
• In America, we follow the English system except that we add 0.5 or 1 for men and 1 or 1.5 for women. (If you are a man and you are 7UK, you will be 7.5US or 8US depending on American brands.)

But this only concerns the length. What about width and shape in general?

DIFFERENT FORMS ACCORDING TO COUNTRIES

• In France, there is a 5mm difference in width from one size to another. And, for the same size but in two different widths, 5mm difference too.
• In England it is 6mm. But between two widths for the same size: 6.34mm. (from B - the narrowest - to J - the widest)
• In America, AAA is the narrowest form), then AA, then A to E (wider).

(Source of these figures: Jacques&Déméter )

It's not easy to get your head around it on paper, but rest assured: the only reality that matters is that of your foot in the shoe.

BUT FINALLY, WHY SO MANY DIFFERENCES?

Because it's all a question of interpretation.

And this interpretation depends directly on the vision of the creator who, himself, is part of a context. I think a lot of times a designer's first pair of shoes is for themselves and they then tend to adapt them for their clients.

That's how I explain it to myself.

Others (like Justin Fitzpatrick ) say that depending on the country, we can read a recurrence in the shape of the foot: Europeans would be more likely to have a strong instep; the Americans a foot narrower; Asians have a shorter, wider foot at the toe with a narrow heel, etc.

And thus, the vision of a creator or a factory with, in fact, an anchor in a region of the world, would be the result of these morphological trends.

I do not really know. All I know is that it is unreasonable to believe that you will do a 43 everywhere, all the time and on all shapes.

To tell you the truth, on the same brand, there is a good chance that you will not have the same size!

For example, I make an 8UK (or even 8.5UK) at Septième Largeur on their 199 form, that is to say width D, while I am in 7.5UK on the 206 form, that is to say say width E. And I oscillate between 42EU, 42.5EU and 43EU the rest of the time.

A headache, but once again: only the reality of your foot in the shoe matters.

From all this emerges at least one certainty: in ready-to-wear shoes, you find your ideal shape by trying. You might be wrong, but it will always be one step closer to finding the shoe that fits you best.

For Internet orders, I strongly advise you to bring in two sizes if you have any doubts. And I also advise you to first contact the brand's customer service with the measurements of your feet.

Another thing: just because you like thin, long shoes doesn't mean they're the right ones for your feet. And vice versa.

Learn to accept the morphology of your foot and work with it to find the shoe that will be the most comfortable and also the most natural to your foot.

And I'll tell you: a shoe that fits the shape of your foot well will age better than one that is unsuitable for your foot.

Yes: if the shape is not adapted to your body shape, then certain areas of tension will deform the leather. In addition, the leather will fill certain spaces left abnormally empty, always resulting in deformation of the upper of the shoe. And, over time, the leather will split and the shoe will have to be thrown away.

So: a pair of shoes with the right size and shape is not only more aesthetic, it is more comfortable (supports your arch better) and more durable.

5 TIPS FOR TRYING IN-STORE IN THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS

The moment to choose your leather shoes is not trivial.

It needs to be a little prepared, especially if you have already had a bad experience with uncomfortable shoes. I was able to see that a bad experience left a slight trauma that was quite difficult to heal, even with all possible kindness and sincerity.

So here are some preparatory tips that may not seem like much, but can change everything:

1. COME AT MIDNIGHT, IT'S BETTER.

Feet swell. Yes, even yours. It's normal. Shoes that you wear in summer may very well be too big in winter. Heat plays a role, that’s for sure. But also the time spent standing, the earth's gravity helping to make blood flow to the feet.

And this can vary your choice by at least half a size. This is why mid-day seems the most consistent, feet are neither too thin nor too swollen.

Afterwards, everyone deals with their own schedule, but at least now you know.

2. COME WITH APPROPRIATE SOCKS.

Hole-free for a little peace of mind. This will save you from spending half the time with your toes buried in the carpet.

But above all, in the same logic as for the feet, they must be neither too thin nor too thick. May they be the perfect synthesis of all the thicknesses of socks you could wear with these shoes. In my humble opinion, these and or these should be the kind of socks you should go to the store with.

Do not come in sports socks, this will distort your judgment (and that of the seller).

3. COME ALONE (OR WELL ACCOMPANIED)

Choosing a pair of shoes is a moment of introspection. We have to be sure.

Coming with a trusted person is an asset. Going with someone who projects onto you a certain idea of ​​what your style is, or what your style should be, is not a good idea.

I have often heard “But that makes your feet very small!” of the person who was precisely accompanying. The truth is simple: if you have small feet, you need small shoes . This will be the best service you will do for yourself.

I also had a customer who wanted to try Chelsea Boots. He really wanted to wear it. He was excited as he looked in the mirror. It made him smile as he tried something completely new to him.

He looks at the person accompanying him, she makes a disapproving pout. The sanction falls: “that’s not your style…”.

Gameover .

The guy takes off his shoes, gives me back the pair of shoes, giving me a sorry look and they leave. Honestly, I was the one who felt sorry for him. These shoes suited him perfectly.

Style is not something frozen in time, it is a sum of potentialities, not a finished state.

4. USE THE HOOR THAT IS GIVEN TO YOU...

It's simply a mark of respect. The shoe horn is used to make your foot slide more easily into the shoe, yes, but also to avoid damaging the heel of the shoe.

5. ...AND BE SURE TO BE CAREFUL WITH THE SHOE YOU ARE GIVEN

Yes, the goal is to determine which shoe fits you best. So you have the right to try it, get up and walk around with it a little. The salesman will even encourage you to do so.

But I have seen men pacing back and forth in the store for fifteen minutes, bending their foot at each step to clearly say “there, it still rushes me”. And also: “look at the leather that bends in this place, that means it’s going to mark, right?”

And during this time, the leather is indeed marked, and more and more so. And the shoe is less and less sellable.

Anguish for the seller, because the product is damaged before his eyes. And the client who continues his destructive march.

So keep this in mind: a shirt gets wrinkled, not a pair of shoes.

HOW DOES A NEW SHOE FEEL IN YOUR SIZE?

Let's say it right away: you're going to be tight. You must prepare yourself psychologically: if you are about to choose GoodYear fitted leather shoes: do not expect to leave with a comfortable pair of shoes.

If you've worn sneakers all your life, it's possible that the first pair of shoes you put on will seem as comfortable to wear as a glass wool sweater.

It's normal.

It is well known that shoemakers are sadists.

You have to keep one thing in mind: leather stretches. This is not a lie that we serve to you with the aim of selling at all costs. That is the real truth. The shoe must therefore be tight enough so that, when the leather is relaxed, the shoe will not be too big, but just right for you. We are talking about a few millimeters of relaxation.

And precisely, the question is to know to what extent it will relax. (And here, an exaggeration on the part of the seller would be a lie.) And, secondly, to know if it will relax enough to give you the comfort you lack at the first fitting.

But let's start the mock try-on:

Using the shoehorn, insert the first foot into the shoe. Stick your heel against the slide as much as possible and lace your shoe as tightly as possible, without cutting off your blood circulation of course.

Now let's get into the details.

THE LENGTH :

Your foot does not touch the end at any time. Leather cannot work lengthwise (this is called leather lending 4). If your foot touches or grazes the tip, when the leather relaxes, your foot will tend to move more forward and you will therefore touch even more.

In addition, you must be able to move the big toe slightly, that is to say, prevent it from touching the hard tip at height.

THE WIDTH :

The foot is held. You feel a slight pressure on the sides , a slight, non-painful pressure which will fade as the leather relaxes in the coming weeks.

You must insist on finding the shape and size that ensures this support.

THE GUARANTEES:

The ideal is that they touch each other or that the gap between them is small. But, in reality, there are not many people for whom this is the case.

If the guarantors are far apart, it mainly means that you are trying the wrong type of shoe for your foot , because you have a strong instep. Which implies that a derby will be much better suited.

THE HEEL :

The heel should not move. If it moves a little: tighten your laces more.

This may also mean that your heel is quite thin, more so than the last. So, maybe it's better to change your shape if your heels move even though the size seems good (i.e. if you're not touching the toe and you're kept wide).

Another thing: the shoe still needs to work and the counters must adapt to the shape of your heels. That is to say, if, on the contrary, you feel that your heels are very tight, tell yourself that the buttresses will work and that, under the action of body heat, will shape themselves to your body shape (within reason). But here, I'm not in the shoes, there is a judgment to be made between being held and compressed (as if the heel were against a wall).

Your toes stay aligned and you can move them (they can be constrained but you should be able to wiggle them a little; they're not supposed to overlap either).

THE ARCH

Do you feel supported? Do you feel that your arch hugs the sole when you walk?

THE SLAP

Normally, the salesperson will run their hand over this part to determine if you are filling the shoe sufficiently. This is a valuable indicator: if you don't fill the shoe enough, the leather will mark . It may be appropriate to take smaller on the same model or smaller on a different shape.

Sometimes, for the filling of your shoe to be optimal, you simply need the help of a comfort insole to elevate your foot. This happens when the shape fits pretty well but the foot is a little flat.

THE FINAL WORD

There are many things to keep in mind when trying on. This is important because, as I told you, a pair of shoes that hurt your feet causes a certain amount of trauma.

However, you must be absolutely aware that you are going to have to make the shoe . It's imperative. Even a shoe of the right size and shape! For what ? Because of the rigidity of the leather of the upper, that of the sole, the density of the seams, the assembly.

And besides, I advise you, rather than wearing it all day the first time, to be a little more careful: two hours at home one evening, then three hours another day and then, one morning at work , a second. Until you can last a whole day.

But you will see, the leather will relax (especially on the sides and on the upper part of the upper if it is an ankle boot), the cork under the insole will settle giving you more room, the heel will expand. soften and mold around yours, the seams will become looser.

And then when you have tamed them, you will realize the effect that a beautiful pair of shoes has on the outfit and on the posture, the attitude and on others.

It's a one-way ticket to a wonderful world that will never stop surprising you.

NOT FORGETTING OUR OWN DRESS SHOES...

Elegant men's shoes: brogues and boots made in England. Chelsea boots, built in the purest English bootmaking tradition. Only the best for your feet.