Buying guide for your leather shoes: the method for choosing the right size and shape (Part 3)

Thank you for being there.

Have you read the first part? It describes how you go from skin to leather, then from leather to shoes.

And the second part, to know if the shoes you want to buy will be durable or not ?

If you haven't read them, I encourage you to do so because they help put everything we're going to see now into perspective.

Happy reading!

Without further ado, I would like to throw a spanner in the works: no two feet are the same.

Well, I don't know every foot in the world, but I have my sources.

This implies two things:

1. You don't have the same feet as everyone else
2. Your two feet are not both the same

And you have already verified this through experience: for example, when you were tight in the left shoe and comfortable in the right, or vice versa.

And knowing that a poorly fitted pair of shoes will deform and age prematurely and that it can also cause posture, back, knee and foot problems , we say to ourselves that, to do things properly, everyone should only own custom-made pairs. It makes sense.

Except it costs a few thousand euros. I'm talking about a single pair of custom-made shoes.

It's a game changer.

What this changes above all is that, as consumers with our physical particularities, we are obliged to deal with an offer (ready-to-wear) which will never completely meet our morphological data.

It is very important to keep this in mind.

The aim of this article is therefore to help you find the best compromise among the ready-to-wear range, to enable you to choose the shoes that are closest to your ideal shoes.

Come on, I'll tell you how to find the right shoe for you. You're not immune to discovering two or three little things along the way.

GETTING TO KNOW YOUR FEET

No choice.

Any reflection on style begins with a reflection on the body. I like to repeat it in my articles, but if you want to dress elegantly, you must first know your body by heart.

Knowing how to show off your body is not just a question of style. In fact, it is first and foremost a question of comfort. Physical and psychological comfort: both my feelings are good in this garment and also, it confirms my idea of ​​what suits me.

The feet are the same.

There are four main variables that cause foot dimensions to vary:

1. Its length;
2. Its width;
3. His instep (the upper part of the foot, just under the laces);
4. His arch (flat foot?).

We immediately understand that being a size 43 doesn't mean much . This indication (only European, by the way!) is only valid for the length. A size 43, okay, but do you have wide or thin feet? A strong or weak instep? Flat or arched feet?

EXERCISE AT HOME

What size shoes do you wear?

Hum. Are you sure?

Well, that's what we're going to see right away.

To do things properly, you will therefore have to get out the triple decimeter and put on (standard) socks at a time when the foot is not swollen (in the middle of the day rather).

You will then need a fine-point pencil and a sheet of A4 paper.

Place your foot on the sheet of paper and, with your pencil perpendicular to the ground, trace the outline of it. Do the same for your other foot.

Then measure the maximum length and width of each foot.

What does it give?

Now, you just have to look in this table your theoretical shoe sizes according to the country.

Are you surprised, or is this consistent with your usual shoe size?

In any case, it doesn't matter, since with the result of these measures, you start again on new bases .

As for the shoe shape that best suits you, more than the width measurement, it is mainly observation that will give you the direction: does the foot seem rather thin and long? rather short and wide? rather very wide? This is an indication that you will want to share with the salesperson .

Regarding the instep, you will have to try on a Richelieu. In my opinion, this is the best way to know if you have a strong instep or not because, due to the construction of the Richelieu (2 guards sewn in the continuity of the upper unlike the Derbys whose guards are built on it) you will quickly know if your foot pushes just under the laces (does the opening of the laces make a very wide “V”?).

Regarding the arch of the foot, you just have to observe your foot when you are standing to see if you notice this arch or if the foot is in contact with the collar along its entire length (= flat foot).

There you have it. Now you know more about your feet. Have you written everything down? Well, that's perfect, now you can go to the store.

ABOUT BRANNOCK

This tool will only be of partial help in determining your suitable size and shape since it evaluates the foot in two dimensions (length and width) while it is appreciated in 3D! Moreover, having tried it, I noticed significant differences with my real size and shape.

In fact, as I explain just after, the size and the shape are an interpretation of each brand and, for that alone, the Brannock is not the Holy Grail.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU BUY

You have in hand the measurements of your feet and in your head, an idea of ​​your shoe size. But it's not a done deal.

Why it's complicated:

Your ideal pair of shoes should be long enough to allow the foot not to touch the hard end, but not too long so as not to have excess material detrimental to the wearer's comfort. But also, it must be wide enough to accommodate the foot when it is at its maximum spread on the ground but at the same time hold it well to prevent the shoe from moving too much, once in the air, at the risk of injuring the wearer. In this way, the arch of the foot is supported, you walk in good conditions.

Ok.

Oh yes, but that's not all.

I'm really sorry to disappoint you but, no, there is no big universal size chart . In fact, everything changes from one country to another.

WHY YOU NEVER ARE THE SAME SHOE SIZE

DIFFERENT SIZES ACCORDING TO COUNTRIES

• In France, for example, there are three sizes in 2cm. Which makes 0.666cm per size.
• In England, the unit is no longer the centimeter, but the inch (1 inch = 2.54cm) and the difference between two sizes is ⅓ of an inch, or 0.846cm.
• In America, we follow the English system except that we add 0.5 or 1 for men and 1 or 1.5 for women. (If you are a man and you are 7UK, you will be 7.5US or 8US depending on the American brands.)

But this is only about length. What about width and shape in general?

DIFFERENT FORMS ACCORDING TO COUNTRIES

• In France, there is a 5mm difference in width from one size to another. And, for the same size but in two different widths, there is also a 5mm difference.
• In England it is 6mm. But between two widths for the same size: 6.34mm. (from B - the narrowest - to J - the widest)
• In America, AAA is the narrowest form), then AA, then A to E (widest).

(Source of these figures: Jacques&Déméter )

It's not easy to find your way around on paper, but rest assured: the only reality that matters is that of your foot in the shoe.

BUT FINALLY WHY SO MANY DIFFERENCES?

Because it's all about interpretation.

And this interpretation depends directly on the vision of the designer, who himself is part of a context. I think that, very often, the first pair of shoes of a designer is for himself and he tends to adapt them later to his clients.

This is how I explain it.

Others (like Justin Fitzpatrick ) say that depending on the country, one can read a recurrence in the shape of the foot: Europeans would be more likely to have a strong instep; Americans a narrower foot; Asians a shorter foot and wider at the toe with a narrow heel etc.

And that thus, the vision of a creator or a factory with, in fact, an anchoring in a region of the world, would be the result of these morphological trends.

I don't really know. All I know is that it's not reasonable to believe that you'll be a size 43 everywhere, all the time, and on all shapes.

To tell you the truth, for the same brand, there is a good chance that you will not have the same shoe size!

For example, I am a 8UK (or even 8.5UK) at Septième Largeur on their 199 last, i.e. width D, while I am a 7.5UK on the 206 last, i.e. width E. And I fluctuate between 42EU, 42.5EU and 43EU the rest of the time.

Puzzle, but again: only the reality of your foot in the shoe matters.

From all this emerges at least one certainty: in ready-to-wear, you find your ideal shape by trying it on. You may make a mistake, but it will always be a step closer to the shoe that will fit you best.

For online orders, I strongly advise you to order two sizes if you have any doubts. And I also advise you to first contact the brand's customer service with your foot measurements.

Another thing: just because you like thin and long shoes doesn't mean they are the right ones for your feet. And vice versa.

Learn to accept the morphology of your foot and work with it to find the shoe that will be the most comfortable and also the most natural for your foot.

And I'll tell you: a shoe that fits your foot well will age better than one that doesn't fit your foot.

Yes, if the shape is not adapted to your body shape, then certain areas of tension will deform the leather. In addition, the leather will fill certain spaces left abnormally empty, always resulting in the deformation of the upper of the shoe. And, over time, the leather will crack and the shoe will have to be thrown away.

So: a pair of shoes in the right size and shape is not only more aesthetic, it is more comfortable (supports your arch better) and more durable.

5 TIPS FOR TRYING ON IN A STORE IN THE BEST POSSIBLE CONDITIONS

Choosing your leather shoes is not a trivial matter.

It needs to be a bit prepared, especially if you have already had a bad experience with uncomfortable shoes. I have noticed that a bad experience leaves a slight trauma that is quite difficult to heal, even with all the kindness and sincerity possible.

So here are some preparatory tips that may not seem like much, but can change everything:

1. COME AT MIDDAY, IT'S BETTER.

Feet swell. Yes, even yours. It's normal. Shoes you wear in the summer may very well be too big in the winter. Heat plays a role, that's for sure. But so does the amount of time you've spent standing, as the Earth's gravity helps to draw blood to your feet.

And this can vary your choice by at least half a size. This is why mid-day seems the most consistent, the feet are neither too thin nor too swollen.

Afterwards, everyone has to work with their own schedule, but at least now you know.

2. COME WITH SUITABLE SOCKS.

No holes for a little peace of mind. It will save you from spending half the time with your toes buried in the carpet.

But above all, in the same logic as for the feet, they must be neither too thin nor too thick. They must be the perfect synthesis of all the thicknesses of socks that you could wear with these shoes. In my humble opinion, these and or these should be the kind of socks with which you should go to the store.

Don't come in sports socks, this will distort your judgment (and that of the salesperson).

3. COME ALONE (OR WITH A PARTNER)

Choosing a pair of shoes is a moment of introspection. You have to be sure.

Coming with someone you trust is a plus. Coming with someone who projects onto you a certain idea of ​​what your style is, or what your style should be, is not a good idea.

I have often heard the “But that makes your feet very small!” from the person who was accompanying me. The truth is simple: if you have small feet, you need small shoes . It will be the best service you will do yourself.

I also had a client who wanted to try on some Chelsea Boots. He really wanted to wear them. He was excited when he looked in the mirror. It made him smile as he tried on something totally new to him.

He looks at the person accompanying him, she makes a disapproving face. The punishment falls: “it’s not your style…”.

Game over .

The guy takes off his shoes, gives me the pair of shoes back, looks sorry, and they leave. Honestly, I was the one who felt sorry for him. Those shoes fit him perfectly.

Style is not something frozen in time, it is a sum of potentialities, not a finished state.

4. USE THE SHOEHORN YOU ARE GIVEN...

It's simply a mark of respect. The shoehorn is used to slide your foot more easily into the shoe, yes, but also to avoid damaging the heel of the shoe.

5. ... AND BE SURE TO BE CAREFUL WITH THE SHOE THAT IS ENTRUSTED TO YOU

Yes, the goal is to determine which shoe fits you best. So you have the right to try it on, stand up and walk around a bit with it. The salesperson will even encourage you to do so.

But I've seen men pacing around the store for fifteen minutes, bending their feet with each step to say, "I'm still in a hurry here." And also, "Look at the leather that's bending there, that means it's going to mark, right?"

And in the meantime, the leather is actually getting marked, and more and more. And the shoe is less and less saleable.

Anxiety for the seller, because the product is being damaged before his eyes. And the customer who continues his destructive march.

So keep this in mind: a shirt gets wrinkled, a pair of shoes doesn't.

HOW DOES A NEW SHOE FEEL LIKE IN YOUR SIZE?

Let's say it right away: you're going to be tight. You need to prepare yourself psychologically: if you're about to choose GoodYear leather shoes: don't expect to leave with a comfortable pair of shoes.

If you've been wearing sneakers your whole life, the first pair of shoes you put on may feel about as good as a glass wool sweater.

This is normal.

It is well known that shoemakers are sadists.

You have to keep in mind one thing: leather relaxes. This is not a lie that is served to you with the aim of selling at all costs. It is the pure truth. Therefore, the shoe must be tight enough so that, when the leather is relaxed, the shoe will not be too big, but just your size. We are talking about a few millimeters of relaxation.

And the question is, to what extent will it relax? (And here, an exaggeration on the part of the seller would be a lie.) And, secondly, whether it will relax enough to give you the comfort you lack when you first try it on.

But let's start the mock fitting:

Using the shoehorn, insert the first foot into the shoe. Stick your heel against the slider as much as possible and lace your shoe as tightly as you can, without cutting off your blood circulation of course.

Now let's get into the details.

LENGTH:

Your foot does not touch the toe at any time. The leather cannot work lengthwise (this is called leather lending 4). If your foot touches or grazes the toe, when the leather relaxes, your foot will tend to go further forward and you will therefore touch even more.

In addition, you need to be able to move your big toe slightly, i.e. avoid it touching the hard tip above.

WIDTH:

The foot is held. You feel a slight pressure on the sides , a slight, non-painful pressure that will fade as the leather relaxes in the coming weeks.

You have to insist on finding the shape and size that will give you this support.

THE GUARANTORS:

The ideal is that they touch or that the gap between them is small. But, in reality, there are not many people for whom this is the case.

If the guarantors are very far apart, it mainly means that you are trying on the wrong type of shoe for your foot , because you have a strong instep. Which implies that a derby will be much better suited.

THE HEEL:

The heel should not move. If it moves a little: tighten your laces more.

It could also mean that you have a fairly thin heel, more so than the last. So, it might be better to change the last if your heels move while the size seems good (i.e. if you don't touch the tip and you are held in width).

Another thing: the shoe still has to work and the counters have to fit the shape of your heels. That is to say, if, on the contrary, you feel that your heels are very tight, tell yourself that the counters will work and that, under the action of body heat, will mold to your morphology (within reason). But here, I'm not in the shoes, there is a judgment to be made between being supported and compressed (as if the heel were against a wall).

Your toes stay aligned and you can move them (they can be constrained but you should be able to wiggle them a little; they are not supposed to overlap either).

THE ARCH OF THE FOOT

Do you feel supported? Do you feel like your arch is hugging the sole when you walk?

THE SLAP

Normally, the salesperson will run his or her hand over this part to determine whether you are filling the shoe enough. This is a valuable indicator: if you do not fill the shoe enough, the leather will mark . It may be appropriate to take a smaller size on the same model or a smaller size on a different last.

Sometimes, to ensure that your shoe is optimally filled, you simply need the help of a comfort insole to raise your foot. This happens when the shape fits quite well but the foot is a little flat.

THE FINAL WORD

There are many things to keep in mind when trying them on. This is important because, as I was saying, a pair of shoes that hurts your feet causes a certain amount of trauma.

However, you must be absolutely aware that you will have to make the shoe . It is imperative. Even a shoe of the right size and the right shape! Why? Because of the rigidity of the leather of the upper, that of the sole, the density of the seams, the assembly.

And besides, I advise you, rather than wearing it all day the first time, to be a little more careful: two hours at home one evening, then three hours another day and then, one morning at work, a second. Until you can hold out for a whole day.

But you will see, the leather will relax (especially on the sides and on the upper part of the upper if it is an ankle boot), the cork under the insole will compress giving you more space, the heel will soften and mold around yours, the seams will become less stiff.

And then when you have tamed them, you will realize the effect that a beautiful pair of shoes has on your outfit and on your posture, your attitude and on others.

It's a one-way ticket to a wonderful world that will never cease to surprise you.

NOT TO FORGET OUR OWN DRESS SHOES...

Elegant men's shoes: brogues and boots made in England. Chelsea boots, assembled in the purest English bootmaking tradition. Only the best for your feet.