The little world of calceophiles
If the world of tailoring is constantly evolving, with fashions that can be quite easily identified over time, that of bootmaking is more discreet. Whether in terms of shapes or patterns, we evolve slowly and little, as what exists is already exceptional.
The big names in the sector are mostly still there (Cleverley, Lobb, Green, Weston, etc.). However, over the past ten years, we have felt a new dynamism being created. Above all, the search for a new aesthetic, with more assertive shapes and more elaborate patinas.
Whether on the side of professionals, or amateurs (often extremely sophisticated when it comes to shoes), we seek to restore the shoe's letters of nobility.
Among the first to dedicate himself to men's shoes, Justin Fitzpatrick's journey is interesting, since he managed to move from a blog to a brand well established on the market, while trying to respond to a rather complicated: how to stand out, while sticking to the fundamentals of what a beautiful shoe is?
One of the pairs made by Justin in Florence, which inspired the logo of his blog
Justin Fitzpatrick is originally from Seattle and passionate about shoes, initially sneakers. He launched his brand in 2013, but this project is the culmination of a much longer journey. A journey that he did not intend for shoes. Passionate above all about music, Justin imagined himself moving towards the big record labels rather than shoe designers. However, the ups and downs of life, and the impossibility of starting an internship with a major in the sector, will distance him from the world of music. Needing a well-defined project to carry out, he decided that he would turn to the world of shoes.
While he has been a salesman for several years in a Nordstrom store (a chain of stores initially specializing in shoes), he is frustrated by the lack of quality and style of the majority of the models offered, and more generally of what is offered on the American market. He therefore quickly aspired to create his own brand to offer more elaborate models, both in style and in manufacturing. But for that, you have to learn from the great shoe makers, and these are mainly found in Europe.
Justin therefore left his family and his hometown in 2008 to discover the complex and little-publicized world (especially 10 years ago) of bootmakers and shoemakers. He therefore began by going to Florence, to study bootmaking with Stefano Bemer, a leading figure of the Florentine (or even Italian) school who unfortunately left us too soon. It is during this 10-month training that he will be able to learn how to make a custom-made shoe by hand. This training is a way for Justin to understand how a sewn shoe is made, and therefore to perfectly understand the technique.
The buttoned ankle boot, a rare ready-to-wear model, certainly one of the brand's icons.
After this long stay in Florence, head to London, where Justin will be responsible for the shoe care stand of the tailor house Gieves & Hawkes located on Savile Row, an avenue well known to tailoring enthusiasts. He will stay there for 3 years. During this period, in contact with men's clothing professionals, Justin will refine his brand project.
And at the same time, he writes the blog theshoesnob.com dedicated to men's shoes. This will quickly become the reference blog for men's shoes in the world. For those who would like to know more, Justin has started publishing a series of blog posts detailing his journey.
English style and Spanish manufacturing
It was in 2013 that Justin announced the launch of the Justin Fitzpatrick Footwear brand. After a long period of design, the direction this brand should take is finally defined:
To offer a quality shoe, Goodyear welted, at a competitive price compared to London references, with a classic style but which differs from what traditional brands do.
We can see the range of choices offered by the brand, here during a trunk show in Sweden.
For the style, Justin will give his models a bit of the fantasy that some brands may lack. In this he is close to what Tony Gaziano can achieve, by offering classic models, but with more refined shapes, less rounds than what English shoemakers can sometimes achieve.
Justin will play a lot with colors by offering a lot of burgundy in addition to the usual black and brown, but also from the start with green or purple, and especially on materials, by offering many of his models in bi-materials, by combining smooth leather (box-calf) to calfskin (suede), or denim (its brown leather and “jean” ankle boot is one of its best-sellers).
The range of shapes is what makes the identity of a shoe brand
Although he would have liked to have his line produced in England, we must face the facts, to offer a more attractive price than that of a giant (and a reference) like Crockett & Jones, by not having your own workshop is mission impossible. We must therefore turn to another shoe country, Spain.
Thanks to this choice, it is possible to offer a quality shoe, for a reasonable budget. Spain is not a newcomer in the world of shoes, the country's factories have been supplying many brands for a long time, but Spanish brands are also establishing themselves and becoming big players in the market (Meermin with its Maestro line, Carmina, etc.), and new brands regularly reach us (Yanko, TLB, etc.).
By choosing Spain for production, and European tanneries to source the leather, we arrive at a quality product just under €400. So yes, €400 is a budget. But for this type of product, it remains a good average. For comparison, the shoes are currently sold for €385, while Carmina is €395, and Crockett & Jones is €500. The brand is therefore rather well placed in relation to its initial objectives.
We can see here that the leather is regular and very little marked despite regular wear (think shoe trees!), and the seams are very clean, no disappointment in the execution.
Concerning the production, several interesting points can be noted. The leathers come from large European tanneries which also supply other major shoe makers (museum leather can be recognized by its marbled appearance invented by the Ilcea tannery, also used by John Lobb Paris).
The different shapes offered are based on a large custom last made by Tony Gaziano (one of the greatest custom shoemakers today) for Justin, which was then adapted to be able to make ready-made shoes.
Only the tip then changes to offer more or less rounded (or square) shapes. The shank, the part which starts from the heel and goes down towards the front of the shoe, the central part of the shoe (it is this which holds the shoe and prevents it from sagging) although invisible, is made of leather and metal as on high-end models.
Finally the upper, that is to say all the parts which form the top of the shoe, is assembled by hand.
That is to say that the step which consists of applying the rod to the form and pulling it so that it sculpts itself by taking the shape of... the form, is carried out manually. This is an important and particularly physical stage.
Could we have even better?
Possible, but certainly not while maintaining this price range. The only fault, purely aesthetic, that I found in my pair of ankle boots was the leather half-moon at the point where the guarantors meet (valid only for brogues), but it disappeared on the more recent series, and was replaced by a stopping point, a more discreet and elegant finish for my taste.
Despite a relatively low price, the brand offers a wide variety of shapes, models and leathers.
A brand in perpetual evolution
Since the launch, the team has remained very active, offering a continuous renewal of models, new references, launching into things a little more original (a mountain boot, driving moccasins, and very recently sneakers ) or more exclusive like a buttoned ankle boot, although there are very few on the market.
The offer has of course been supplemented by a complete range of maintenance accessories, including a pair of very practical travel shoe trees.
Over time, an MTO (made to order, personalized shoes) option was offered for £90 more, which is very reasonable (generally we are around 30 to 50% increase). The collection itself is constantly evolving with new models every 6 months, which means you don't go around in circles.
Although some models are permanent, this seasonality allows you to regularly find more original models (the spring-summer 2018 collection gives pride of place to woven leather)
Why did I immediately get hooked?
The footwear market is complex. It was even more so a few years ago. Finding models that go beyond classic patterns and colors remains complicated, because they are in the minority. Especially if you want to maintain impeccable manufacturing quality (at a price that is not too steep). When Justin presented his collection, I was immediately won over. Being a fan of bi-materials, I was served, and many of the models corresponded to what I would have liked to add to my closets.
If I add to this the fact that Justin tries to come to Paris once a year, which allows him to try on the shoes and see the new models in real life, and that Justin is an extremely friendly person who doesn't mind chatting with everyone and talking about their passion, what more could you ask for?
In addition, he has been joined in recent months by a French collaborator, Eric, whom you can contact directly by email (eric@jfitzpatrickfootwear.com) if you have any questions.
Three brand classics, for three different styles
Wedgwood Model
I was a customer of Justin's very early on, during the first Trunk Show in Paris, I took the opportunity to try and leave with the Wedgwood model, an oxford ankle boot offered for the occasion in burgundy bi-material.
Extremely elegant, it is a perfect model to change from black and chocolate brown in a formal outfit. As it is an ankle boot, although the calfskin suede part is the majority, it remains relatively inconspicuous.
So I'll be honest, although I've worn it regularly for almost 5 years, it's not the model I wear most frequently. The disadvantage of an oxford boot is that it takes a little more time to lace it up, to be reserved for mornings when you are not too late.
This first purchase was an opportunity to confirm the fittings during the Trunk Show. Justin's shapes fit me extremely well. This ankle boot is one of the shoes that fit me best, I can wear it during a long day on my feet (like at Pitti) without it becoming unpleasant to wear.
This first pair is five years old, and does not seem to show its age despite regular wear
Magnolia Model
After this first successful attempt, I decided to add a more versatile model to my closet. Even if it means having pairs that suit me well, I might as well be able to wear them as frequently as possible. I chose (during Justin's second visit) to order the most classic model you could find, a brown cap-toe brogue.
Neither too formal nor too casual, it's a model that can be combined with everything, a blue suit, gray pants, jeans
A simple and versatile model, which can be worn with any type of outfit
Rainier model
Finally, a year and a half ago, I took advantage of Justin's new visit to Paris at Mes Chaussettes Rouges to order one last pair (for now). A little frustrated because I wasn't wearing my boot as often as I would like, I decided to go back to a more daring model.
I set my sights on the Rainier model, an "Austerity Adelaide", that is to say a shoe with a bib at the lacing level, a toe (generally straight, but here golf) and a heel, brogues.
In this case, to add a little personality, the shoe is made with two skins (yes, I really like bi-materials) a smooth burgundy leather, and a blue calfskin. The calfskin suede on the vamp adds a little more flexibility than smooth leather. It is a clearly less sober and more complicated model to wear, but it remains quite discreet in use.
Combining burgundy and blue gives a model with more personality, some would say “dandy”
As you can imagine, if I regularly complete my wardrobe with new pairs, it is because I feel very positive. With use, my different pairs age very well and are easy to maintain (I would like to take this opportunity to thank Romain, from the Parisian shoe cleaners, for the final beauty of my 3 pairs).
The final word
Succeeding in creating a line of shoes that is both slightly more original than average, and easy to integrate into an outfit is not easy. Justin Fitzpatrick has managed to become in a few years a brand that counts in the community of calceophiles and to offer a coherent offer and a real vision of style.
The investment is not trivial and the 385 euros that must be spent remain a sum. But it remains good value for money for this range of shoes.
