The small world of calceophiles is full of great craftsmen (Tuczec, Cleverley, Lobb, Bunting). Those who, long ago, created the foundations of a field where stylistic evolution is the slowest and most complicated.
If the world of tailoring is constantly evolving, with fashions that can be easily identified over time, that of shoemaking is more discreet. Whether in terms of shapes or patterns, we evolve slowly and little, as what already exists is exceptional.
The big names in the sector are mostly still there (Cleverley, Lobb, Green, Weston, etc.). However, over the last ten years or so, we have felt a new dynamism being created. The search for a new aesthetic above all, with more assertive shapes and more worked patinas.
Whether it is on the professional side or the amateur side (often extremely precise when it comes to shoes), we are trying to restore the shoe's former glory.
Among the first to dedicate themselves to men's shoes, Justin Fitzpatrick's career is interesting, since he managed to go from a blog to a well-established brand on the market, while trying to answer a rather complicated problem: how to stand out, by sticking to the fundamentals of what a beautiful shoe is?
One of the pairs made by Justin in Florence, which inspired the logo of his blog
Justin Fitzpatrick is from Seattle and passionate about shoes, initially sneakers. He launched his brand in 2013, but this project is the culmination of a much longer journey. A journey that he did not intend to take in shoes. Passionate above all about music, Justin imagined himself evolving more towards major record labels than shoemakers. However, the vagaries of life, and the impossibility of starting an internship with a major in the sector will distance him from the world of music. Needing a well-defined project to carry out, he then decides that it is towards the world of shoes that he will turn.
While he has been a salesman for a few years in a Nordstrom store (a chain of stores initially specialized in shoes), he is frustrated by the lack of quality and style of the majority of the models offered, and more generally of what is offered on the American market. He therefore quickly aims to create his own brand to offer more worked models, both in style and in manufacturing. But to do this, he must go and learn from the great shoemakers, and these are mainly found in Europe.
Justin left his family and his hometown in 2008 to discover the complex and little-publicized world (especially 10 years ago) of bootmakers and shoemakers. He therefore began by going to Florence to study bootmaking with Stefano Bemer, a leading figure of the Florentine (or even Italian) school who unfortunately left us too soon. It was during this 10-month training that he was able to learn how to make a shoe by hand, to measure. This training was a way for Justin to understand how a sewn shoe is made, and therefore to fully understand the technique.
The buttoned ankle boot, a rare ready-to-wear model, certainly one of the brand's icons.
After this long stay in Florence, he headed to London, where Justin was in charge of the shoe care stand at the tailoring house Gieves & Hawkes located on Savile Row, an avenue well known to tailoring enthusiasts. He stayed there for 3 years. During this period, in contact with men's clothing professionals, Justin refined his brand project.
And in parallel, he writes theshoesnob.com blog dedicated to men's shoes. This will quickly become the reference blog for men's shoes in the world. For those who would like to know more, Justin has started publishing a series of articles on the blog telling his journey in detail.
English style and Spanish manufacturing
It was in 2013 that Justin announced the launch of the Justin Fitzpatrick Footwear brand. After a long period of design, the direction this brand should take was finally defined:
To offer a quality shoe, Goodyear welted, at a competitive price compared to London references, with a classic style but which differentiates itself from what traditional brands do.
The breadth of choice offered by the brand can be seen here during a trunk show in Sweden.
For the style, Justin will give his models a bit of the fantasy that some brands may lack, he is getting closer to what Tony Gaziano can achieve, by offering classic models, but with more racy shapes, less rounded than what English shoemakers can sometimes achieve.
Justin will play a lot with colors by offering a lot of burgundy in addition to the usual black and brown, but also from the start green or purple, and especially on materials, by offering many of his models in two materials, by combining smooth leather (box-calf) with suede, or denim (his brown leather and "jean" ankle boot is one of his best-sellers).
The shape park is what makes the identity of a shoe brand
Although he would have liked to have his line produced in England, it must be acknowledged that to offer a more attractive price than that of a giant (and a reference) like Crockett & Jones, without having his own workshop, it is mission impossible. He must therefore turn to another country of shoes, Spain.
Thanks to this choice, it is possible to offer a quality shoe, for a reasonable budget. Spain is not a newcomer in the world of shoes, the country's factories have been supplying many brands for a long time, but Spanish brands are also establishing themselves and becoming major players in the market (Meermin with its Maestro line, Carmina, etc.), and new brands are regularly arriving here (Yanko, TLB, etc.).
By choosing Spain for production, and European tanneries to source leather, we arrive at a quality product just under €400. So yes, €400 is a budget. But for this type of product, it remains a good average. For comparison, the shoes are currently sold for €385, when Carmina is at €395, and Crockett & Jones at €500. The brand is therefore rather well placed in relation to its initial objectives.
We can see here that the leather is regular and very little marked despite regular wear (think shoe trees!), and the seams very clean, no disappointment as to the production.
Concerning the realization, we can note several interesting points. The leathers come from large European tanneries which also supply the other large shoemakers (we can notably recognize the museum leather by its marbled appearance invented by the Ilcea tannery, also used by John Lobb Paris).
The different lasts offered are based on a custom last made by Tony Gaziano (one of the greatest custom shoemakers today) for Justin, which was then adapted to be able to make ready-to-shoes.
Only the tip then changes to offer more or less rounded (or square) shapes. The shank, the part that starts from the heel and goes down towards the front of the shoe, the central part of the shoe (it is what holds the shoe and prevents it from sagging) although invisible, is made of leather and metal as on high-end models.
Finally, the upper, that is to say all the pieces which form the top of the shoe, is assembled by hand.
That is to say, the step of applying the rod to the shape and pulling it so that it is sculpted by taking the shape of... the shape, is done manually. It is an important and particularly physical step.
Could it get any better?
Possible, but certainly not while maintaining this price range. The only flaw, purely aesthetic, that I found in my pair of boots was the leather half-moon at the point where the guards meet (valid only for the oxfords), but it has disappeared on the more recent series, and has been replaced by a stop point, a more discreet and elegant finish to my taste.
Despite a relatively low price, the brand offers a wide variety of shapes, models and leathers.
A brand in perpetual evolution
Since the launch, the team has remained very active, offering a continuous renewal of models, new references, launching into things that are a little more original (a mountain boot, driving moccasins, and most recently sneakers) or more exclusive like a buttoned ankle boot, while there are very few of them on the market.
The offer has of course been completed by a complete range of maintenance accessories, including a pair of very practical travel shoe trees.
Over time, a MTO (made to order) option was offered for an extra £90, which is very reasonable (usually it's around a 30-50% increase). The collection itself is constantly evolving with new models every 6 months, which means you don't have to go around in circles.
Although some models are permanent, this seasonality allows you to regularly find more original models (the spring-summer 2018 collection gives pride of place to woven leather)
Why did I get hooked right away?
The shoe market is complex. It was even more so a few years ago. Finding models that stand out from the classic patterns and colors remains complicated, because they are a minority. Especially if you want to keep an impeccable manufacturing quality (at a price that is not too divisive). When Justin presented his collection, I was immediately won over. Being a fan of two-materials, I was served, and many models corresponded to what I would have liked to add to my closet.
If I add to that the fact that Justin tries to come to Paris once a year, which allows you to try on shoes and see the new models in real life, and that Justin is an extremely friendly person who doesn't mind chatting with everyone and talking about his passion, what more could you ask for?
In addition, he has been joined in recent months by a French collaborator, Eric, who you can contact directly by email (eric@jfitzpatrickfootwear.com) if you have any questions.
Three brand classics, for three different styles
Wedgwood model
I was a customer at Justin's very early on, during the first Parisian Trunk Show, I took the opportunity to try and leave with the Wedgwood model, a Richelieu ankle boot offered for the occasion in two-material burgundy.
Extremely elegant, it is a perfect model to change from black and chocolate brown in a formal outfit. As it is an ankle boot, although the suede part is the majority, it remains relatively invisible.
So I'll be honest, although I've been wearing it regularly for almost 5 years, it's not the model I wear most frequently. The downside to a brogue boot is that it takes a little longer to lace up, which should be reserved for mornings when you're not too late.
This first purchase was an opportunity to confirm the fittings during the Trunk Show. Justin's lasts fit me extremely well. This boot is one of the shoes that fit me best, I can wear it for a long day standing (like at Pitti) without it becoming unpleasant to wear.
This first pair is five years old, and does not seem to show its age despite regular wear.
Magnolia Model
After this first successful try, I decided to add a more versatile model to my closet. If I have to have pairs that fit me well, I might as well be able to wear them as often as possible. I chose (during Justin's second visit) to order the most classic model you could find, a brown cap-toe Oxford.
Neither too formal nor too casual, it is a model that can be combined with everything, a blue suit, gray pants, jeans …The first model that we should have. So I chose the Magnolia from Justin's collection. A choice that I do not regret, this pair is one of those that I always have at hand, when I do not want to take too much time to choose what to wear, it is one of the 3-4 pairs that I have by default.
A simple and versatile model that can be worn with any type of outfit.
Rainier Model
Finally, a year and a half ago, I took advantage of Justin's new visit to Paris at Mes Chaussettes Rouges to order a last pair (for now). A little frustrated because I didn't wear my ankle boots as often as I would like, I decided to go for a more daring model.
I set my sights on the Rainier model, an "Austerity Adelaide", that is to say a shoe with a plastron at the lacing level, a toe (generally straight, but here golf) and a heel, brogued. In the case of an Austerity model we find the same pattern but without the perforations.
In this case, to add a bit of personality, the shoe is made with two leathers (yes, I really like bi-materials) a smooth burgundy leather, and a blue suede calfskin. The suede calfskin on the vamp adds a bit more flexibility than a smooth leather. It is a model that is clearly less sober and more complicated to wear, but it remains quite discreet in use.
Combining burgundy and blue gives a model with more personality, some would say "dandy"
As you can imagine, if I regularly complete my wardrobe with new pairs, it is because my feelings are very positive. In use, my different pairs age very well and are easy to maintain (I take this opportunity to thank Romain, from the Parisian shoe shiners, for the last makeover of my 3 pairs).
The final word
Succeeding in creating a line of shoes that are both slightly more original than the average and easy to integrate into an outfit is not easy. Justin Fitzpatrick has managed to become in a few years a brand that counts in the community of calceophiles and to offer a coherent offer and a real vision of style.
The investment is not insignificant and the 385 euros that must be spent remain a sum. But it remains good value for money for this range of shoes.
