Buying guide for your leather shoes: 50 brands to buy (Part 6)

(Photo credits: Milad Abedi)

ORBAN'S (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €175 AND €195)

At Orban's, you get what you pay for. It's GoodYear (except for exceptions linked to the nature of the shoe, for example boat shoes must be flexible and are therefore in Blake) and the leathers are correct. If the shapes of the models lack personality, they can suit as many people as possible.

It's made in Spain, with French leathers. In short, everything is very honest. Honest in the sense of correct and, at the same time, in the first sense of the term since, when it is a bookbinded leather, the mention is written in the description.

On the other hand, it is true that the website is rather rudimentary and does not highlight the products.

LODING - (HEART OF THE RANGE FROM €200)

All of their shoes are full grain leather with the exception of the Polido model. The leathers come from France (Du Puy, Annonay among others). For this price, it's appreciable. Of course, you will have to be careful when purchasing: inspect the leather and the assembly . And it is imperative to choose a shape that will suit your foot to prevent the leather from marking too much.

Loding has many points of sale in France , it's very practical.

MEERMIN - (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €180 AND €290)

A very good value for money. It is interesting to say that we find quite varied widths at Meermin , this is useful especially when you have a really wide foot .

The leathers are often French (Annonay, Du Puy in particular). The upper of the shoes is assembled in China, this is the trick that explains this low price.

The brand organizes meetings (trunkshows) quite regularly. It's only in Paris that this happens, however.

If you want to order, the lead time can sometimes be a little long (around 3 weeks) and I really advise you to contact customer service with the measurements of your foot to ask them for advice. You can always have surprises when it comes to fit.

MTO Groups (Made-to-order) are interesting for finding pairs of shoes with more character.

The brand opened its first store in Paris in 2019. You will find the brand's classics and can bring in a pair for free that you have spotted but is not available.

In this price range, you should always inspect the leather and assembly to verify that everything is well done.

YPSON'S (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €199 AND €299)

The manufacturing is Portuguese, the calfskins are French ( boxcalf from the Puy tannery) and the assembly is a GoodYear (sometimes Blake). This is the equation Mr. Pinto chose for his brand Ypson's . And the man, it is worth remembering, is a shoemaker.

The photos on the site don't really do justice to the models who, in reality, are well made and look good. It's good value for money. Well maintained, they age well.

Lots of information available on their website, it's worth taking a look.

HERRING (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €200 AND €330)

At Herring, it's a bit the same music as at Loake: I don't particularly recommend their pairs of shoes below €230. The leathers and mountings will not last long.

Where it becomes interesting, however, is from around €230 with the Leconfield Brogue, the Pershore shoes, the Knightsbridge oxfords for example.

Be careful with the models though: Lewis Brogues are no one's friend of style.

The shapes are quite round, in the English style, this will not suit everyone.

The brand works in partnerships with Tricker's, Cheaney, Barker, Loake and Alfred Sargent.

LOAKE (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €180 AND €340)

At Loake, there's no point considering models for less than around €250 . These, in fact, are made with rectified leathers (Vaughn, Artemis, 201 etc.).

But when we exceed this €250 mark, we have models with good quality/price ratio like the Aldwych, and others. It's made in England. And it's in good taste.

The shapes are round in the English style but not excessively so.

CHIPPEWA BOOTS (CORE RANGE APPROXIMATELY €250)

Boots for workers: robustness and a purely American raw aesthetic. We recommend the entire range made in the United States which can easily be found on their site.

Crownhill Shoes (between €270 and €330)

Discreet Spanish brand, yet offering interesting products.

A rich offer of shoes with a classic style, rather for a style that tends towards the formal.

Please note: the site is not very practical to use, it is sometimes a bit cluttered, but everything is there. Remember to click at the top left and put "France" as the shipping country, to get the right price.

The majority of models are Goodyear welted.
Some more accessible models (moccasins for less than €200) use a more flexible construction, probably a moccasin or Blake stitch.

The classic range uses leathers from the French tannery Du Puy. Even if they probably don't take the best skins, this is still a good sign and a guarantee of quality, in this price range.

Another good point too: the presence of “extra-wide” models, for strong insteps.

If you have more budget, you can go for the premium or even cordovan range which uses higher quality materials.

The offer seems completely fair to us in view of the asking price.

Myrqvist (between €280 and €340)

Swedish brand created in 2016, discreet but slowly making a name for itself among enthusiasts.

We appreciate the shapes: neither too pointed, nor too round, they will suit as many people as possible, and can fit into more dressy or more casual looks.

The range is classic and controlled, you will find all the basic city shoes: derbies, brogues, moccasins, boots.

The leathers seem decent for the price. The manufacturing is European (Portugal). The assemblies are in Goodyear. The soles are sometimes leather, sometimes rubber.

In our opinion, this is good value for money.

Morjas (core range at €300)

Swedish brand which produces its collections in Spain.

We appreciate the brand's products, which are aesthetically successful, and with completely honorable quality considering the price: ok leathers and Goodyear stitching.

You will find some suggestions that are not necessarily found elsewhere:

- In terms of colors: a beautiful smooth burgundy leather and a tobacco suede leather
- In terms of shapes: a Belgian moccasin model

Namely: the Archives category which presents stored pairs. These are either end of stocks of non-renewed references, or pairs from shoots, rarely worn and in very good condition, or pairs with slight imperfections.

We recommend the brand.

HARDRIGE (CORE RANGE AROUND €300)

If you opt for a GoodYear assembly with a simple aesthetic, you obtain durable shoes with a good quality/price ratio.

We are less fond of models with a logo on the external heel counter or those whose sole is heavy and red or those whose seams are too numerous and too aesthetic.

We find Vocalou leathers from Annonay, others from Degermann and nice surprises when the brand sticks to classic models.

SHOEPASSION (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €280 AND €400 EXCLUDING EXOTIC LEATHER)

You can expect all styles at Shoepassion. Be sure to keep a little common sense, even if you are not immune to an inexplicable crush.

In terms of quality, we have a bit of everything too. Models with a price greater than or equal to approximately €280 are possible, others less . If you want to pay less than this price, I advise you to look at Loding, Orban's, Meermin or Ypson's. It's safer.

Shoepassion is a German company that manufactures GoodYear shoes, most often with French leathers. Fairly common formula among shoe makers. She has it made in Spain. Frankly, if we ignore the fancy models and focus on classics, it's worth it.

MEERMIN HANDWELTED (BETWEEN €290 €310)

The difference with a pair of Meermins at €180? More elaborate shoe lines but above all: more quality leathers. They come from France, Germany and Italy. This does not exempt you from inspecting it carefully. Variations from one leather to another can be significant.

Closed seam under engraving and hand-sewn assembly.

SANDERS & SANDERS (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €290 AND €450)

Good and less good. Being caricatures, we could make the following distinction based on the ranges:

• Ambassador: ok
• Diplomats: ok
• Casual: ok (with an iconic model worn by Steve McQueen: the crepe sole high top. With beige chinos, it's perfect.)
• Country: ok
• Uniform: no go
• Black tie: no go

It's GoodYear. But I couldn't find any indication of the origin of the leathers. So, to see in real life.

In fact, you have to be careful of leathers that are too shiny and coated with plastic. This won't age well. But that said, there are plenty of good role models in Sanders like these:

GRANT STONE (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €320 AND €420)

The brand pays attention to the details of its shoes: vegetable-tanned soles, GoodYear assembly, full-grain leather from Horween, doubled or even tripled seams in particular. Their secret to being at this price level? Well, it's made in China, on the island of Xiamen, opposite that of Taiwan.

We think it's very good value for money.

Although, here again, you have to be careful with the leather, so as not to come across weak leather. Afterwards, appearance defects are not prohibitive but you have to know how to spot them.

YANKO (HEART OF THE RANGE FROM €275)

After financial setbacks, the brand was relaunched by a businessman in 2007. Yanko is a nice surprise. The models in the core range are beautiful and well made.

Frankly, the positioning is intelligent and it makes you want it. The leathers come, among others, from the Annonay tannery.

In short, I would say that it is slightly below Carmina, and still.

Note 2024: in Europe, Yanko is mainly present at resellers, such as Skolyx.

SEPTIEME LARGEUR (CORE RANGE BETWEEN €295 AND €395)

The vocation of 7L is to fit all feet. As a result, on certain brogues, the brand offers two different shapes for the same model: a tapered one (the 199) and a round one (the 206).

The leathers come from French tanneries such as Degermann for fatty leathers, Annonay and Du Puy and it is in England that they source their calfskin suede. Like all brands in this range and above, take a close look at how the leather behaves.

7L essentially works its shoes in GoodYear assembly for their durability. They are produced in Spain.

Rare details in this price range that purists will appreciate : embossed shank under the shoe, the seam of the shoe platform sewn by hand, seamless Chelsea boots under the elastic (arch) among other things.

The leathers are stiff and the construction a little hard, but these are shoes that you will keep if you take care of them well. 7L remains one of the best quality/price ratios on the market.

Apart from the pair of Moissac ankle boots in oily leather which patina well over time, this model is my favourite:

MAX SAUVEUR (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €300 AND €400)

Young French brand offering shoes that are a little out of the ordinary.

Some pairs can go with a suit and tie, but that is not the heart of the style proposition. Max Sauveur instead offers casual leather shoes , to wear with jeans, cargo pants, pleated pants.

This relaxation is seen for example in the fairly round shapes, the regular use of commando soles, with studs. This is also seen in certain models offered: a two-tone black and white moccasin, boat shoes, leather sandals.

All models are well explained and made in Portugal. The leathers come from European tanneries (France, Spain, Portugal in particular).

A brand to consider for models with a little pep.

WOLVERINE (HEART OF THE RANGE FROM €300)

We particularly like the 1000 mile boots. These are the iconic ones that can be worn outside of a construction site. Because Wolverine makes a lot of work boots, as well as hiking shoes, outdoor shoes to put it like they do.

We also tested one of these 1000 mile boots in a detailed article.

Wolverine is robust, wild and will make you look like the adventurer you've always been.

BARKER (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €225 AND €500)

Barker is no exception to the rule of English shoemakers: before a certain price, it is not worth investing. For Barker, this threshold is around €290. From there, we have beautiful leathers, with GoodYear montages and even very... English creations!

We like the Grassington, the Nairn, the Calvay, the Elton, the Bailey 1 and 2, the Butcher 2, the Kelmarsh, the Lambourn, the Westfield, the Glencoe and quite a few others... but especially not the Warminster !

VELASCA (HEART OF RANGE FROM €320 TO €400)

For those who want comfortable shoes right away. The construction is mainly Blake. The main advantage is the flexibility of this assembly. Its main disadvantage: it is less durable than a GoodYear.

The shoes are made in Italy, in the town of Montegranaro. The calfskins come from France. Their rubber comes from Vibram.

Handmade, as they say? Rather semi-industrial: man and machine, but it is impossible in this price range to have a product entirely made by hand. We recommend Velasca but on sale!

JUSTIN FITZPATRICK FOOTWEAR (CORE RANGE FROM €400)

Models that you don't see elsewhere , made in Spain in mostly Italian leathers. A particularity for Fitzpatrick, derbies are absent from his collections. He prefers oxfords, which he offers in many shapes and designs.

GoodYear assembly for strength and durability.

The aesthetic bias is classic with a twist. Beautiful pairs of shoes for those who want to stand out.

RED WING SHOES (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €350 AND €400)

The RWS offer is quite similar to that of Wolverine or Chippewa: these are brands which excel in work shoes and which take advantage of this particular know-how to build a solid, durable urban range, with a very American.

The leathers are durable and the shoes, stiff at first, will later soften to become your everyday boots.

Red Wing is known for its recognizable white soles like the Classic Moc model which is particularly successful. It's a signature model. But the Rover, Blacksmith, Beckman and Ice Cutter models are also worth a look.

For workwear lovers.

CARLOS SANTOS (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €320 AND €450)

The leathers come from France and Italy and the shoes are made in Portugal. Fitments can be Blake, GoodYear or Bologna depending on the model. We recommend the GoodYear, as usual. And avoid Bologna (or Bolognese)

The quality/price ratio is correct. Some leathers shine a little, maybe a few rectified leathers here and there. We must remain vigilant.

JOSEPH CHEANEY (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €350 AND €560)

Cheaney's creations are classic and elegant. It's made in Northamptonshire in England. GoodYear assembly and calfskin. The origin of which we do not know, however. We advise you to be vigilant with these leathers.

Some disappointed people share their experience on the forums. Better to see before you buy (or have the option to return of course).

COBBLER UNION (CORE RANGE BETWEEN €385 AND €480)

American brand which uses leathers from Italy (Ilcea tannery) or France and has GoodYear shoes manufactured in Spain.

There are interesting details like the embossed shank and the closed engraved seam. The shapes are worked and we feel that the brand wants to differentiate itself with leathers whose color is sometimes marbled or at least nuanced.

Interesting stuff at a justified price.

SEPTIEME LARGEUR PATINES (FROM €365)

The brand also offers personalized shoes. The calfskins used for the patina are impeccable, the skin being raw before patina, this is an imperative.

The patina work carried out is neat and tasteful. If this is your first patina, ask for advice and go with it, you shouldn't be disappointed.

OAK STREET BOOTMAKERS (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €350 AND €530)

Oak Street Bootmakers is: leathers from the Annonay tannery or the famous Chromexcel from Horween, GoodYear assembly, Dainite rubber sole, made in the USA, doubled seams.

A brand in the same environment as Grant Stone and Viberg, it defends a relaxed aesthetic, typically American and practical, for everyday life. The quality/price ratio is very good although you have to be careful with the leathers.

MARC GUYOT (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €420 AND €650)

Shoes that often leave no one indifferent. We look for models with a dandy aesthetic at Marc Guyot that can express a certain fantasy. Other models, without being classic, are still portable by ordinary people.

The leathers are beautiful although, once again, this does not exempt you from being very careful. The montages vary: GoodYear, Blake, Bolognese. I do not recommend the Bolognese for shoes at this price and the choice of the Blake, to refine the models, remains intended for customers who already have a few durable pairs in their wardrobe.

We do not recommend the sports line, the models with topstitching lack, in our opinion, elegance.

DE LAURÉ (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €375 AND €420)

Brand created by the founder of Monsieur Chaussure.

The finishes are neat with appreciable details such as, among other things, reinforcement at the eyelets and doubled seams. The calfskins come from the Du Puy tannery.

The shoes are made in France.

The assembly is Blake, to obtain a fine and elegant shoe. De Lauré shoes are suitable for people who like tapered, slender shapes, more Italian, let's say. It must also be said that there is a serious aesthetic bias with patinas that can be personalized as desired.

CARMINA (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €435 AND €775)

A very good quality/price/aesthetic/form ratio.

Many voices praise the work of this house. Without going into the details of its history, the brand has great experience and manufactures its shoes in the Balearic Islands, on the island of Majorca.

The preferred assembly is GoodYear, but I have difficulty determining where the leathers come from. Except for the Penny Loafers at €335, I haven't seen rectified leather at Carmina .

Lots of shapes so it's worth studying the offer carefully depending on your foot width: the Simpson for example is quite thin and elegant while the Oscar is rounder at the front.

Please note: Carmina has a very developed range of Cordovan models which are worth a look.

PARABOOT (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €450 AND €515)

Beautiful know-how from this French brand which manufactures in France with French leathers (for the most part) . There are no rectified leathers at Paraboot : no synthetic coating on the leathers to hide defects.

The finishes are beautiful and the assembly solid, in short, durable shoes.

Their iconic models have a fairly busy aesthetic, with the Paraboot label directly sewn onto the upper of the shoe. However, the brand is also capable of producing finer, more elegant models.

Oh yes by the way, if you wear big shoes, you should find it at Paraboot.

GRENSON (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €575 AND €665)

We like Grenson 's creativity, combined with the durability of the shoes whose assembly is solid and the leathers behave well.

Be careful however, like many English shoemakers today (and other nationalities too), certain ranges from Grenson are made in India and are not as high quality as those made in England: you should favor the Triple Welt ranges and G:One.

There, you find models whose quality/price ratio is good, like these for example:

JACQUES & DÉMÉTER (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €565 AND €675)

If you want to buy Made in France, buyJacques & Déméter . It's well made, it's beautiful, it's durable. The leather is full grain aniline, the GoodYear, Blake or Norwegian assembly (depending on the model, use and desired aesthetic) and the leathers come from the Puy and Annonay tanneries.

It's worth its price. This does not exempt you from looking carefully at the leathers and being critical, but even in this case, the customer service is attentive, available and honest.

TRICKER'S (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €585 AND €685)

English shoes, round and robust. There's a lot of creativity at Tricker's, it's nice to see. To obtain information on each product, you must go to the brand Journal . It's a shame this important information isn't on the sales page, but let's move on.

The shoes are mainly made in GoodYear, in the cradle of English shoes: in the Northampton region. The quality/price ratio is good and the models are really successful.

Also, Tricker's has a tailor-made shoe service starting from €4,500 and it's entirely handmade.

ALTAN BOTTIER (AROUND €590-€720 PATINA INCLUDED)

Made-to-measure is the primary activity of this shoe maker who diversified into ready-made shoes in the early 2000s. In the ranges that interest us, namely Classic and Sport , the fittings are in Blake or in GoodYear. Especially in Blake, moreover, which is justified by the tapered shapes, à la Berluti.

I would advise being vigilant about the leathers and the rendering of the patinas. To talk about the latter: we completely advise against the Nikka and the Miel because they are really too showy and not very subtle.

The brand has a shoe repair service that works on behalf of prestigious brands.

HESCHUNG (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €545 AND €750)

The brand manufactures in Alsace and Hungary, without being able, as a customer, to distinguish one or the other of the manufacturing locations. But the fact that models are made in Hungary does not mean that they are poorly done, or less qualitative. The Vass brand is Hungarian and it is still a great success.

Heschung is a sure bet, with its iconic models such as the Ginkgo in particular. A superb boot with a particular aesthetic, very recognizable. If I'm not mistaken, the prices have increased a little all the same.

What upsets me, however, is seeing glossy leather, which I will call bookbound (i.e. coated in plastic) until proven otherwise. For boots to be worn in difficult weather conditions (rain, mud and snow), it is indeed a useful leather since nothing penetrates it, but it is still less durable than an oily leather for example, which In my opinion, it should be prioritized.

In my opinion: stick to Suportlo (leather from Degermann in Alsace), Anilcalf, Hydrovelours and Beluga (which also comes from Alsace) and forget the leather they call Windsor.

VASS (HEART OF THE RANGE AROUND €530)

Vass is Hungarian and is a small phenomenon in the small world of calceophiles. The models are superb and trigger an irrepressible desire to own them all within the hour.

Well, several forms at Vass and it is always better to try first even if it is not possible for everyone to travel to Budapest. Depending on whether you have a strong instep, a thin or wide foot, you will need to choose one shape over another from Vass. Moreover, MTOs allow you to achieve a truly appreciable level of customization, since you can choose your size, its shape, the model, the leather and its color and the type of sole. The price of the MTO 600€ + 30€ shipping costs (shoe trees included).

Let’s just say it’s a great gift to give yourself.

BARBANERA (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €540 AND €660)

I'm not convinced that this is the best value for money. In fact, I am quite sure that this is not the case. However, I still suggest you discover this brand whose creations are worth it. They are both portable and original.

I therefore recommend them to you on sale.

We like the Kerouac, the Gatsby, the Ruskin, the Buster, the Chet (for a bit of Italian relaxation, the latter) and even the Cormac which could make us wear cowboy boots casually.

It's made in Italy, no information on the leathers and fittings: GoodYear and Blake.

CAULAINCOURT (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €545 AND €685)

At Caulaincourt , we find quite round shapes and models with varied aesthetics! For those who want to assert a certain neo-dandy taste, it's perfect. The classic models are not as classic as the English shoemakers of course but, with a discreet patina, the Opera model, or One-Cut, or even the Albion 2 can do the trick.

Yes, these are patinas from Caulaincourt and the price of the patina is included in the price. The shoes are made in France, in various assemblies, adapted to the aesthetics of the model.

ALFRED SARGENT (€585 ON AVERAGE)

Sold in France in Manfield stores, the brand is English and has a very good reputation. The finishes are neat and the leathers are beautiful. The models are classic and elegant.

It's expensive, but if you find some on sale, don't hesitate too long (if you like the shoes of course!).

CROCKETT & JONES (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €570 AND €700 FOR THE “ HAND COLLECTION” )

C&J enjoys a very good reputation. And, based on our personal experiences, it is completely justified. We recommend the brand, even this does not exempt you from carefully inspecting the leathers and fittings because quality deviations occur from time to time.

As for the shapes, lines and elegance of the models: nothing to say, it's great art and a pair of C&J still looks great. The editing is obviously in GoodYear.

We like the legendary Coniston, the Cardigan IV, the Alex, the Bradford, the Dorset II, the Pembroke of course and I'll stop there because otherwise I'll end up mentioning them all.

The difference between the main line and the handgrade lies mainly in the leathers and purist details (closed engraving in particular).

VIBERG (HEART OF THE RANGE ON AVERAGE €770)

Service Boots are the flagship model of this Canadian brand. The general aesthetic is adventurer boots.

The products are robust, the seams doubled, the leathers come mainly from Horween (as well as from an Italian tannery) whose Chromexcel leather is the preferred choice of this brand, the assemblies are in GoodYear (or double stitchdown which is variant).

The leathers have a fairly rustic look. You should not be offended by the presence of veins and defects in appearance. The veins do not harm the durability of the shoe.

ANTONIO MECCARIELLO (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €530 AND €1000)

Antonio Meccariello's shoes are quite exciting. I say it like I mean it. On Styleforum, photos of his work were posted and one day the craftsman became a celebrity in the small circle of calceophiles.

Its work is segmented into Ready-to-wear, special orders (MTO) and Made-to-measure. Oh yes and also a superior range in quality (and price).

When we see the quality of the soles of the cheapest ready-to-wear shoes, we say to ourselves that it definitely more than holds up.

A (very) good quality/price/style ratio.

ZONKEY BOOTS (CORE RANGE FROM €900)

Lots of care in making Zonkey Boots shoes. The brand is recent (2011), but already has a very strong identity: the models are original without ostentation. You have to pay attention to the exotic leathers that you can't find elsewhere and their very successful bi-material boots.

The constructions are solid and the finishes neat. It's worth the detour, especially to see the welt sewn .

In short, it is both worked in appearance and construction. We really like it!

JM WESTON (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €750 AND €950)

Just because I've already heard some pretty fantasy stories: Jean-Marie Weston doesn't exist. The “JM” is a sort of joke to pronounce “I like” rather than “JM”. And "Weston" refers to the town of Weston in Massachusetts in the United States.

Weston is legendary in France and around the world. We must pay tribute to the golf models, 180 moccasin, half-hunt, hunting, triple sole and the famous Cambre ankle boot (made from a single piece of leather). Lots of know-how and manufacturing

It is also a brand that does not rest on its laurels and does not hesitate to revitalize its legendary models by reinventing them: I am thinking, for example, of the 180 moccasin available in Klein blue and a number of other things. Even if many models that could be described as austere still exist.

Weston's great strength is to offer its models in several forms , which implies having a gigantic stock and which therefore logically increases the price, in addition to the raw materials and the manufacturing quality.

Some voices have recently been raised to denounce the decline in quality of the brand. We, at BonneGueule, have not actually had this experience and salute this century-old brand with remarkable know-how.

SANTONI (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €650 AND €950)

Those looking for good value for money shouldn't dwell on Santoni. The models are well made, durable if you maintain them well and choose them well when purchasing, but too expensive for what they are. Finally, you have to know how to sort! We have everything at Santoni. Average Blake and finely made GoodYear.

What we are looking for at Santoni is the “great thrill”, as Benoît would say. If you browse the collection on their e-shop, there is a good chance that you will fall in love two, three or four times like on the metro in Paris.

There is great creativity at Santoni which is not content with mastering a single product aesthetic (the soft moccasin for example) but also extends its touch through more rustic models to which it gives its own vision of elegance.

ALDEN (HEART OF THE RANGE BETWEEN €650 AND €990)

Alden is inseparable from shell cordovan, this ultra-resistant pony leather, coming from the rump of the beast, which the brand obtains mainly from Horween. Regarding cordovan, you should know that it is a leather that patinates very little over time and therefore develops (almost) no charm. It may also make some noise when walking.

The brand has a strong desirability among those interested in shoes: notably the famous Indy Boots (for Indiana Jones yes), the tasseled moccasins (of which the brand is said to be the origin) and the longwing 975 derbies of course.

They are resistant and durable. The aesthetic is heavy, no fine shoe, very solid American style.

Here again, this does not prevent you from carefully inspecting the leathers when you buy, even at this price you can find weak leathers.

In Paris, they can be found at Anatomica and Upper Shoes, in Toulouse at Bec Fin, in Lyon at Upper Shoes and in Bordeaux at Graduate Store.

AUBERCY (READY TO FIT FROM €1350)

Originality of the patterns at Aubercy, with an undeniable touch of the house with its clean lines. The assemblies are made by hand and the skins chosen with great care. There are two extremely rare mounting features in this price range:

• there are buttresses on each side of the arch, which ensures support for the foot like nowhere else,
• Goodyear stitching is done by hand, so it's called welt stitching, with superb finesse.

There is still a lot to tell about the brand, between the possible customizations, the truly “one cut” Chelsea boots, the clean and sleek lines of the shoes, or quite simply the incredible history of the house…

The Lupine is the brand's renowned essential moccasin, it is recognizable by its shape which does not age.

Go to the store and ask to see pairs aged 10, 15 or even 20 years old, with several resolings to back them up (yes, even on blake), and you will understand that an Aubercy will accompany you for a very, very long time. .

In the back of the shop, there is also a shoemaker who is inexhaustible on shoe technique, who invented a unique method for customizing irons on the front of the shoe!

And if you want the thrill of bootmaking, ask to see the work of the house's Japanese bootmaker, a real pleasure for the eyes...

GAZIANO & GIRLING (HEART OF THE RANGE FROM €920)

Gaziano & Girling is magnificent shoes in elegant shapes and a refined aesthetic.

So.

Parisian Gentleman went to visit the factory in Kettering in England. This trip, which gave rise to a report, is transcribed in this beautiful article in which it is a question of arch, shapes, elegance and comfort.

EDWARD GREEN (HEART OF THE RANGE FROM €1,230)

If you want to see how this brand's shoes evolve over time, go to forums like En Grande Pompe or De Pied en Cap, you will see that the happy owners of EG are full of praise for these little gems.

Of course it's expensive, but when you keep a pair of shoes for 30 years, maybe it's worth it.

The work on shapes is undeniable, the choice of leathers is impeccable, the aesthetic is always well balanced, in short there is not much to say... so much could be said!

I encourage you to check out the boots too, they’re a treat! Here is a model:

JOHN LOBB (HEART OF THE RANGE FROM €1,400)

The English brand, from Jermyn Street (in London, the rue des bottiers) was bought by Hermès in 1976. With Hermès, the brand developed its ready-to-wear offering.

Timeless model from Lobb: the William (magnificent double-buckle) and the Lopez (simple and beautiful moccasin).

The prices are very high but we come to John Lobb for so-called exceptional leathers, thanks to Hermès it seems, and undeniable manufacturing quality.

ST CRISPIN'S (HEART OF THE RANGE AROUND €1600)

The shoes of this brand are made by hand in a factory in Romania.

Everything is very beautiful and very well done. The models are well balanced and the shapes accomplished. There is a strong personality that emerges from this entire offering, some models of which are simply breathtaking.

What more can be said ?

CORTHAY (HEART OF THE RANGE FROM €1,450)

The word "racy" was invented for Corthay's shoes. They are recognizable among thousands and will not leave anyone indifferent.

The emblematic model is of course the Arca. At this price, it's made in France and talking about quality/price ratio no longer makes much sense. Corthay is aimed at shoe lovers. She speaks to people who have a taste for calceophilic collecting, who are looking for the “great thrill” (as Benoît says).

The brand also specializes in patina (very well done in fact) and creates tailor-made shoes, in addition to its ready-made shoes. We will nevertheless note a sharp increase in prices in recent years, even if part of this increase can be attributed to the inflation of raw materials, including leather obviously.

THE FINAL WORD...

If you like beautiful shoes, take a look at Bontoni, Enzo Bonafe or Norman Vilalta. As these houses are very rarely distributed in France, we cite them on the fly, but they deserve our attention.

If you are and have been fascinated by all these beautiful creations and, more generally, the world of shoes, here are some specialized e-shops that can satisfy your curiosity (and perhaps your desire - need! - to buy):

• Skoaktiebolaget
• Shoehealer
• A Fine Pair of Shoes
• Skolyx
• Patina
• Upper Shoes
• Pediwear
• Bradshaw & Lloyd (thanks Fabrice)

And here is Chris's kind and substantial contribution:

• Ascot Shoes (Barker, Foster & Son, John Lobb, Laslo Vass)
• Armenak (Church's, Crocket & Jones, John Lobb, Santoni)
• Care of Carl (Cheaney, Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, Loake, RM Williams)
• Leffot (Alden, Church's, Corthay, Edward Green, Enzo Bonafé, Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb, Norman Vilalta, Saint Crispin's)
• Mehra (Corthay, Enzo Bonafe, Gaziano & Girling, Stefano Bemer, Vass Tôramally, Maison Patina)
• Parlor (Andres Sendra, Berwick, Gravati, Norman Vilalta)
• Pauw (Alden, Bontoni)
• Shoes and Shirts (Alden, Bettanin & Venturi, Bontoni, Church's, Corthay, Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, John Spencer, Lattanzi, Santoni, Tod's)
• Shop the Finest (Paolo Scafora, Saint Crispins, Santoni, Sutor Mantellassi)
• Skomaker Dagestad (Alden, Alfred Sargent, Carmina, Clinch – Brass, Edward Green, Enzo Bonafé, Gaziano & Girling, Heschung, Loake, Paraboot, Red Wing, Saint Crispin's, Silvano Sassetti)
• The Armory (Carmina, Saint Crispin's)
• Yeossal (Antonio Meccariello, Corno Blue, TLB Majorca)

The tireless Parisian Gentleman has also published a substantial selection since 2015 (!):

• part 1
• part 2
• 2019 selection in video on the “Sartorial Talks” channel

Either way, remember the words of Tom Selleck: when you buy a quality product and take care of it, it lasts a long time!

Hoping this series of articles has triggered the calceophilic itch. For sure, it gave me lots of ideas for Christmas and Birthday gifts to make for myself...