It's a rather special garment that we're going to present to you, because if we explored wool, linen and cotton in the previous pieces of the BonneGueule line, technical materials remained a dream for us... until now.
You have seen the BG X Hédus jacket, now here is Luca who arrives with the technical pants.
Of course, we wanted to use technical materials, but in a chic and urban look.
Out of the question to offer hiking pants that are too wide, or whatever.
We absolutely had to make these pants elegant, and very easy to wear. As you will see, this requires above all a fitted cut and specific finishes.
Here is our vision of the ultimate chinos (because on this type of clothing where we do a lot of movement, technical materials are extremely useful).
This is the fitted cut we wanted. I'm wearing the BG x Hédus jacket and my tireless Feit running shoes, which are in "after-party" mode in the photo.
The genesis of the ultimate chinos
As usual, I went to see Alexandre, during his coffee break, with a fairly simple request:
Alex, we need to make pants with one of the best possible technical materials, but with an unbeatable quality/price ratio!
And that’s how Alexandre started to break out in a cold sweat 😉
This was not an easy task, because technical fabrics are a whole new world. Complex, cutting-edge fabrics are usually reserved for very large clients (states, armies, and very large outdoor companies).
This is the world of R&D and heavy industrial developments.
So when you want the best of the best, you better hold on.
And that's what Alex did...
And one day, he came up with the magic sentence:
That's it, I finally have an appointment that should interest you!
And on a cool winter morning, we visited the agent of a Swiss technical materials company, which is one of the most respected (and highest end) in the world of urban techwear.
Ladies and gentlemen, I ask you to give a standing ovation for Schoeller (Geoffrey the Alsatian says it is pronounced “cheu-lair”).
(A little patience, animated gifs are coming soon)
Who is Schoeller?
Schoeller, a beacon in the night for technical subjects.
Overall, Schoeller (which has existed since 1867) is one of the best suppliers of technical materials in the world , with great efforts invested in innovation and environmental responsibility.
In fact, they have been labeled with the Bluesign standard , which is renowned for being very strict, but which guarantees ecological manufacturing at all levels, from fiber to dye!
In terms of innovation, they don't do things by halves, since 15% of the staff is employed in research and development. The brand has distinguished itself in complex achievements around the fields of nanotechnology, bionics, chemistry and physics, accessible to the textile industry.
In particular, they have two very specialized branches:
- Schoeller Works , which supplies fabrics for specific trades (works, protection),
- And they even created a branch specializing in medical tissues, Schoeller Medical ! Yes, so you can have a Schoeller fitted sheet 😉
In short, they have both feet in the “turfu”.
No, it is not the development of the next BonneGueule anise aperitif, but the research laboratory on tinctures.
On the brand side, we saw Schoeller at Acronym, Arc'téryx, Aether Apparel, and other very cutting-edge techwear brands (however, nothing is distributed in France, and the smallest pair of pants costs more than $200 in US, excluding shipping and customs fees).
Among French brands, on the other hand, very few of them venture to use Schoeller fabric... We come across it in dribs and drabs at very large French luxury houses with a few pieces, or luxurious riding clothing (Hermès ).
In short, we cannot say that Schoeller is very present in high-end men’s “fashion” ready-to-wear in France!
Here, a material being weaved, ready to be dyed.
But when we presented the BonneGueule project (between passion for the product and startup spirit) to Philippe and Emmanuelle (the distribution agents of Schoeller in France), they were enthusiastic, and it was thanks to them that we was able to place an order for the so-called “ dryskin ” range.
A big thank you to them!
Schoeller's Dryskin technology
As you will see when reading the small Schoeller label that accompanies each pants, the fabric we used on these pants is part of the Dryskin range from Schoeller.
From the looks of it, you wouldn't suspect anything, it looks a bit like cotton twill. But when you turn it over, you will see that the reverse side of the fabric has a slightly unusual texture: it looks like tiny cells.
This is the back of the pants, and the texture that makes them breathable.
A breathable fabric
They serve to make the pants breathable , since they absorb perspiration and transfer it to the outside, where it is evacuated by drying in the open air. This is where the feeling of having breathable pants comes from (in addition to the fact that the fabric is light ).
Luca, who must have run like crazy in the teaser video , had, I quote: " the impression of running in his underwear " (I don't know if he really does that on Sunday morning).
Luca: “ I feel like I’m running in my underwear .”
A fluffy touch
These same small cells also make contact with the skin pleasant, thanks to their downy feel .
A stretch material in 4 directions
And above all, what is most striking when trying on the pants is their incredible stretch power . Indeed, it is stretch in 4 directions (whereas usually, most fabrics are bi-stretch) , and you will never be limited in your movements. When I say “never,” I really mean it. It's your flexibility that can stop you in your movements, but certainly not your pants.
Look, we can even make a big difference with:
(Don't ask me where Rafik learned to do that, it wasn't on his CV!)
On this subject, I recommend that you squat down when trying it on, you will be very, very surprised... And I bet that these will become the most comfortable pants of your entire life , all categories combined (Yes, it is even more comfortable than our gray stretch jeans !).
Very strong water-repellent power
But it is not finished ! The pants also have great water-repellency . Where a classic cotton (jeans, chino cloth) will absorb water by capillary action, beads of water will literally roll on the fabric . Here too, an animated gif is better than a long speech:
(You can imagine how practical this is for two-wheelers, or when you go home in the rain).
These are the pants to wear in wet weather!
Very resistant to abrasion
Last point on this fabric of the future: it is more resistant to abrasion than classic cotton. Don't be afraid to sit in wet sand or on a rock, you won't be afraid of anything 😉
Having personally tested it from top to bottom, you can absolutely wear it by the sea while sitting on the sand, or in the evening to go out with a blazer. And you can even do yoga with it!
It really is a very high-end technical material, in fact, it is the most expensive per meter with which we have worked of all the clothing in the BonneGueule line (yes, even the Kurabo selvedge canvas costs less).
Apparently, nothing suggests the technicality of the material...
A slim fit (but not too tight)
You won't be disoriented, because we've opted for a semi-slim cut: easy to wear and versatile.
On this subject, the photos speak for themselves:
That's a slim fit.
The cut of the legs refines the silhouette.
Very sophisticated tailoring
For these pants, we worked with a special workshop in Romania: due to its elasticity, it is a very complicated material to work with , and contrary to what I believed, a workshop that makes cotton chinos cannot necessarily work on technical subjects. These are two very different skills .
You must be very careful when cutting out the pattern inserts and when making the pants; which takes a lot more time. For example, once the roll of fabric is unrolled, it is left to rest for 48 hours so that it is straight. In the workshop, ironing also requires another technique: we tap the fabric with the iron (instead of dragging it).
But on this subject, we are preparing a whole video for you to appear next week…
The finishing touches of elegant pants
Style-wise, we approached this piece as if it were wool pants.
It has Italian pockets , because we had to give an urban look to these pants with the stopping points.
At the back there are two buttoned welt pockets. Moreover, the closing system is that of suit pants, with an exterior button, a button placket and a counter-button.
It’s this piped pocket that gives an elegant touch to these pants.
The seams are chain stitched throughout the leg , as this is best suited to elastic materials. Indeed, the chain stitch is an extensible seam which accompanies the tensions of the fabric.
Before sewing the edge of the fabric, you see a second one, it is the chain stitch, which accompanies the elasticity of the material.
The closure system, modeled on what we usually see on suit pants.
How do our Schoeller technical pants fit?
It fits perfectly normally!
If you are a size 48 in our flannel pants, then you are a size 48 on these technical pants. Since the material is elastic, you have much more room when trying on because it is impossible to feel tight in these pants.
How to wear technical pants?
Under their Yamakasi armor appearance, the technical pants are actually very easy to wear. Think of them as chinos when putting together your looks ; It's that simple.
Not surprisingly, you can wear your pants with a blazer, a nice shirt and a tie for a formal look. The color combination is really easy (it's gray pants!), and I liven it up by introducing a red tie: it's the kind of combination that you know well by now. (Blazer and BonneGueule shirt, Howard's tie , Atelier Voisin ankle boots that I refuse to take off, Catherine Michiels bracelets).
Florian and his characteristic phlegm offer us a more dressy interpretation of pants, wearing them with a vest in addition to the blazer. His entire outfit revolves around shades of blue and gray (even on the boots), which he brightens up with a very light shirt and tie. Besides, if you combine a patterned shirt and tie, make sure they are different sizes and shapes. And as always, Florian happily relies on accessories. (BonneGueule blazer, Asos vest, Office Artist shirt, Bruce Field tie, Maison F. pocket square, Asos tie clip)
More casual, Geoffrey completes the pants with a pair of sneakers, a sweatshirt and a chambray shirt underneath. The colors are very soft, and each piece presents an interesting work with the material. The jacket may well be black leather, but it takes the light well and does not polarize the outfit. (DROMe jacket, BGBJ sweatshirt, BonneGueule shirt, BGNS sneakers)
In a layered look, don't hesitate to contrast materials with different textures: your outfit will only be enriched!
Change of influences with Luca, who chooses to wear his pants with a safari jacket. Beige, blue and white are the main colors of the men's summer wardrobe , it is an excellent base for building your looks this season. The safari jacket and the open shirt give the impression of volume and flesh out the build, where the rolled-up sleeves add nonchalance, and even Luca's lock of hair is sprezzatura . (BGA safari jacket, BonneGueule chambray shirt, Monoprix t-shirt, Zign boots)
Maintaining his usual comfort, Alexandre wears his pants with a hoodie, a t-shirt and a pair of sneakers. The white t-shirt serves as a neutral base for the gray hoodie, whose textured “honeycomb” material fleshes out the outfit. When you put together your look with basic pieces, choose them with a worked material or color (to avoid looking too flat). Besides, it's a spontaneous look. (Benjamin Jezequel hoodie, Nike sneakers)
The sober color of the pants and the original texture of the back of the fabric will allow you to add several twists, like very colorful socks. This also helps avoid the “block effect” when your pants and shoes are similar colors. (Sock Therapy Socks)
To avoid looking too monochrome, Long wears a white patterned shirt, which contrasts with the very present blue. The casual chino/shirt combo is a summer classic, it makes perfect sense to move in this direction. (Frog Leg Shirt, BGS sneakers)
Red Bull, technical pants give you wings! Note the colorful details, like the brown belt and red socks, which also break with the dominance of blue in the look.
Come, starting Saturday, try on the pants at the showroom
No, our sofa is not water-repellent. Watch out for the pastis!
You can come and try, touch the materials, receive personalized advice , and even drink tea or coffee, or even show us photos of your hamster (it's like home).
After fitting, you will also leave with your personalized size guide.
You will find all the useful information here .
Quantities and availability of BonneGueule technical pants
Since this is a permanent part of the BonneGueule line, we ordered 600 pieces. I thought it was good, but since the 400 gray stretch jeans were gone in less than 48 hours, I tell myself that anything is possible...
In any case, it will be available this Sunday, May 24 at 2 p.m. , a little earlier for subscribers to the newsletter , and the day before for members of the BonneGueule Program.
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