In this part, we will discuss a particular style: streetwear. Don't worry, we 're not going to pay you a one-way ticket to shoot a 90s rap video , with baggy pants, caps and gold chains around your neck.
Forget this style of “American thug”, long out of date and abandoned by its most fervent defenders. Streetwear has survived the ages and is today enjoying real success by reaching a wide audience.
The origins of streetwear style
Streetwear appeared in the United States in the mid-1970s with the emergence of urban culture and its different components, such as board sports (skateboarding and surfing), music (punk, hip-hop) and urban art (graffiti).
Two stylish young New Yorkers from the 80s.
As its name suggests, it was born in the street at the instigation of young people from disadvantaged neighborhoods. A form of expression which allowed them to show their belonging to a culture and to reaffirm their individuality in a society which tended to marginalize them.
Not having much financial means, these young people could not afford designer clothes, and therefore made do with what they had.
The important thing was no longer the clothing itself but the way it was worn. A situation which encouraged them to be as creative as possible and which gave rise to the birth of new urban codes.
The basic foundations of the streetwear movement are therefore authenticity, originality and freedom. Pillars which have accompanied the movement in each of its evolutions and which are still valid today.
Arriving in France in the 90s and disseminated thanks to films like “La Haine”, brands like Com8 or Wrung , and the arrival of the rap movement (NTM and IAM), urban culture and streetwear style quickly reached the general public .
Streetwear has evolved since the 2000s, and that's so much the better
The evolution of streetwear
From its beginnings on the street, to its influence in the ready-to-wear collections of luxury houses, streetwear has “grown” enormously. It is a style that has evolved consistently and is now reaching maturity.
Some streetwear brands did not question themselves sufficiently and therefore disappeared, while many others have launched since.
Originally, streetwear style was defined by wide clothing: “baggy” jeans, XXL t-shirts with sleeves that fall below the elbows, hooded sweatshirts with armholes starting 10cm below the shoulder, etc.
Yes, that's what we're talking about...
A style completed by chunky sneakers and a cap. But very quickly, some people preferred to opt for tighter jeans, like Californian skaters with their skinny jeans.
In fact, the “freedom” which is the very essence of streetwear has favored diversity. People have reclaimed their wardrobe basics. In fact, two people with streetwear style could have different looks.
Today, the cuts are more fitted and the collections are more sophisticated, with the use of beautiful materials and attention to detail in the manufacturing of the clothes.
Sobriety has replaced the huge, omnipresent prints of the early days. Also, we note the increasingly marked correlation between streetwear and workwear .
The clientele has diversified: streetwear is no longer associated with anarchist and non-conformist youth culture as in its beginnings. It affects older age groups and has invaded all social classes.
He has long since left the streets to invest in the high-end boutiques of the biggest capitals. Dressing in streetwear can therefore be expensive .
The aim of this part is to offer you a guide to help you adopt the right reflexes for a neat street style.
Where to start ? The “essentials” of a streetwear outfit
Three pieces constitute the bases of a streetwear outfit: the sweatshirt, sneakers and cap . To get started, focus on these three elements.
The sweatshirt with and without a hood
The hooded sweatshirt, also called a hoodie , is historically linked to streetwear. With or without a central zip, opt for sobriety and plain colors.
Avoid overly imposing screen prints. If you're wearing a nice t-shirt, don't hesitate to show it off by keeping your hoodie open. The rest of the time, keep it closed all the way up. Also, avoid the “thug” style and don’t wear the hood.
Here, a Maison Standards sweatshirt
For a round neck sweatshirt , without a hood, pay attention to the finishes. The neckline should not be too close to the neck and should fall perfectly on the beginning of your shoulders. Check that the ribbing located on the sleeves and the bottom of the piece is not too long or too tight.
Do a test: raise and lower your arms several times in a row. Check that the sweatshirt returns to its initial shape and falls correctly.
Underneath a round-neck sweatshirt without a hood , you can wear a shirt buttoned all the way up . In this case, opt for models with more elaborate materials (mesh, leather elbow pads, etc.).
☞ Recommended brands: American Apparel, Carhartt, Monoprix, Uniqlo (between €40 and €70).
Sneakers
Sneakers are an obsession for streetwear lovers , who collect them (in a more or less reasonable way). The range offered by the brands is gigantic. Here are some tips to help you see things more clearly.
To get started and avoid making mistakes, look to the most well-known brands that offer iconic models at affordable prices.
Nike offers three “essential” models: the “Nike Blazer” (high and low) are thin and really adapt to all cuts of pants.
They are offered in pretty vintage colors between €85 and €100, and are even customizable on the brand's eshop.
The Air Force 1 in a low version (€95), in its original all-white color, is also a basic model to own (avoid the high version with the velcro).
The iconic Air Force 1 “white on white” model
Finally, the Air Max 1 will complete your collection and will stand out from your other pairs with its air bubble (around €145).
A model of Nike Air Max 1
You can also choose from the Vans catalog with complete peace of mind. We have a preference for the Era model from Vans (around €80). Timeless, it can be worn as easily with shorts as pants and comes in a multitude of colors.
The Vans Era model in classic colors.
If you are looking for a more “dressy” and less “street” model, we recommend the National Standard brand (between €150 and €250). It offers fine lines (even for high-top models!) with impeccable manufacturing quality and a refined design.
In general, avoid “flashy” colors and models that are too big. Sneakers should blend in with your outfit and not attract attention.
Be careful, after your first purchase, you can easily get into the game and start a collection of sneakers without really realizing it. We will have warned you...
Note: There is a return of “running” in streetwear. Let yourself be tempted by a pair of sneakers originally intended for running. We really like what the New Balance brand offers. Please note, check whether they were manufactured in their English factory in Flimby (the United Kingdom flag is embroidered on the tongue) or in the United States.
The cap
An essential accessory for a street outfit, three models should catch your attention: the classic cap with a flat visor, the snapback and the 5-panel .
Jay-Z with his New Yankees cap
Classic flat peak cap:
It is the reference for street caps. The New Era brand has democratized it with its iconic model: the “59 Fifty” (around €35). Most of the time, the embroideries are the logos of American baseball (MLB), ice hockey (NHL), basketball (NBA) or American football (NFL) franchises .
New Era has also collaborated with many streetwear brands based on this model. In limited edition, they are more sought after than the classic models.
In any case, be sure to choose a “serious” model , with a sober logo and classic colors (avoid at all costs imitation snake visors and excessive embroidery). Keep in mind that you must be able to wear it every day.
Pay attention to the size! A cap that is too small can quickly become uncomfortable, while a cap that is too large can quickly make you look ridiculous. The size is indicated on the macaroon sticker stuck on the visor. Tradition forbids removing it! But we won't blame you.
The sticker with the size of the cap.
History note: it was the rapper Jay-Z who popularized the wearing of the New Era 59 Fifty by wearing the model of the New York baseball team, the New Yankees. Originally from Brooklyn, he was one of the first to claim his New York origins in this way. The New York Times even speaks of the “Jay-Z effect”.
The person concerned assumes responsibility and even declares in one of his songs “I made the Yankees cap more famous than a Yankee could have done it”.
The snapback
In recent years, the snapback has overshadowed the classic model. The only difference is that it is adjustable at the back (no more headaches finding a model that fits). To easily integrate it into your look, you must also make sure to buy a “serious” model.
Snapback from the American brand "Only NY".
Note: New Era and Mitchell & Ness are the specialists in snapbacks with the logos of American sports franchises. However, choose streetwear brands that have their own snapback line like “ Only NY ”, “ HUF ” or “ Quiet Life ” (from €35).
The 5-panel
As its name suggests, this model is made up of five panels (one on the front, two on the sides and two on the top), sewn together. Just like the snapback, it is a model with an adjustment tab at the back. This is the cap that has enjoyed the greatest success in recent times.
If you had any doubts about its shape, think again! Far from the “thug” cliché, there is nothing more elegant than a 5-panel. Brands like Norse Projects , Moupia and I Love Ugly (between €50 and €65) surprise us every time, with the use of original prints and interesting play on materials.
A 5-panel “I Love Ugly” model, you can see the finishes with the adjustment band and the pin buckle.
Note: the French brand Larose Paris revisits the 5-panel model with a reworked shape and the use of noble materials (fabrics from England, France and the United States). The models are assembled in Paris by a hat maker holding the title of “artisan of art”. Hence a slightly higher price, around €95.
Whatever the cap model, also focus on the manufacturing quality : the seams, the anti-perspiration strip placed at the forehead (avoid a white strip as it will immediately be marked by your sweat), the tongue adjustment (in leather with a pin buckle for the most beautiful)...
Finally, there are two ways to wear a cap: with the visor facing forward and backwards. Any other intermediate position is reserved for rappers. This is non-negotiable.
And the rest of the outfit?
Aside from sneakers , caps and sweatshirts , there are no “branded” streetwear pieces. The rest of your outfit is largely borrowed from a more classic wardrobe. However, the “street” influence will be felt in the way you reappropriate them.
Also note that streetwear, heterogeneous by definition, goes well with other styles : with draped, minimalist and dark things like at Silent by Damir Doma or Rick Owens, workwear like at Carhartt, or even more dressy pieces.
T-shirt
For the t-shirt, make sure it is well cut even if you are allowed to choose it a little larger, all things considered. Take the belt as a point of reference: the t-shirt should not reach above or below it.
If you opt for a slightly larger t-shirt, avoid the “umbrella effect” inherent in sleeves that are too large. Do not hesitate to make a small hem on each of them. In addition to restructuring your t-shirt, this will give you an appreciable “sloppy effect”.
Concerning t-shirts with prints , prefer sobriety above all. They should not be too imposing... except for all-over prints (i.e. covering the entire material), such as camouflage. T-shirts with fine stripes or heather cotton are interesting alternatives.
“Pocket tees” (t-shirts with a pocket on the heart side) have been very successful in recent years. There are many variations: silk, fabric with an original print, pocket with snap button... Details that give depth to a traditional piece.
Example of a pocket with snap button on a Tantum t-shirt
☞ Recommended brands: Carhartt, Stussy, Norse Projects, Tantum, APC (from €35 to €80). Let's mention this gem that is the Elegvncy Pvris brand, offering high-end streetwear at an affordable price.
Jeans and pants
For jeans, prefer raw jeans with a beautiful selvedge canvas . This one will fall perfectly on your sneakers. And you can make a slight hem which will reveal the red border.
We advise you to prefer a straight or semi-slim cut, and to wear a pair of New Balance or Air Max. Avoid skinny jeans and “baggy” jeans which will make your outfit lose all credibility by breaking your silhouette.
☞ Recommended brands: Gustin (€100), Balibaris (€120), Naked & Famous (€145), APC (€145).
Raw denim with a hem on a pair of New Balance 670
The best alternative to jeans is chinos . Prefer a fitted cut, even if you can wear it a little wider. Don’t hesitate to add a little spice to your outfit by choosing bright colors. In this case, make sure the rest of your outfit is sober to match the color of the pants.
With a round-neck sweatshirt and a nice pair of sneakers , you will have a street and relaxed silhouette, without appearing neglected.
☞ Recommended brands : Patrons , Dockers , Homecore , Bleu de Paname, Norse Projects (between €100 and €140).
And the shorts? If the weather permits, don't hesitate to wear one! Pay attention to its length: ideally, it should stop mid-knee. If it is too long, make a small hem. Avoid anything superfluous (side pocket, etc.) and only wear it with low-top sneakers .
The famous “Cargo” Bermuda shorts from Carhartt – around €80.
Jackets/coats
To spend the winter warm, choose a parka . Prefer a long model, with practical pockets at chest level to slip your hands into. Aviator bombers with or without a sheepskin collar are also an excellent choice for facing the cold.
For sunny days, a summer jacket will do the trick. Opt for models with a velvet collar if you want to reinforce the sophisticated side of your outfit.
The teddy , an emblematic piece of American universities, is to choose if you want to further reinforce the street side of your outfit (or if you are a student). Depending on the season, choose a cotton or leather model.
The integration of more formal pieces
Once you have mastered the basic principles, you can go further by integrating high-end pieces. The contrast is very interesting . Focus on a specific piece, without losing sight of the fact that it must fit perfectly into your streetwear outfit.
We advise you to start with the top pieces such as chunky knit sweaters and cardigans, poplin shirts or even a Barbour-style quilted jacket . “Premium” ready-to-wear houses like APC and AMI offer magnificent bomber jackets (between €350 and €500).
Designers Gaspard Yurkievich and Monsieur Lacenaire have revisited the teddy in their collection (around 300 euros).
Teddy Gaspard Yurkievitch
For your shoes, Lanvin offers excellent models of sneakers in nubuck and suede (between €320 and €550). This will reinforce the dressy side of your outfit while preserving the “urban” dimension.
Collaborations
Also called co-branding and very widespread in the world of streetwear, they allow two brands to work together on one or more products. The meeting of their respective universes and know-how gives rise to unique and therefore highly sought-after products.
The perfect example is the collaboration between Carhartt and APC: the proposed silhouette was able to bring together fans of streetwear/workwear and lovers of the “bobo” style.
Carhartt and APC have “merged” their logo for their collaboration.
Be careful not to mistake the slightest collaboration for the Holy Grail: with big brands, these are mainly marketing stunts. Listen to yourself and trust yourself!
