Layering is an anglicism which refers to the superposition of several layers of clothing
This technique does not only consist of wearing several layers of clothing but of making each one visible and playing with them to create contrasts of colors, materials or volumes.
There, you may wonder why not just wear a very warm sweater or just a big coat. But the advantage of layering is twofold.
It allows you to be warm with the possibility of removing layers depending on the temperatures of the different places where you will be. So you can manage your heat well.
And the interest of layering is not only “thermal”. It brings real richness to an outfit, since there are several pieces, colors, and textures.
Play with volumes and your body shape thanks to layering
Layering several layers of clothing is a technique that everyone can adopt. But I won't hide from you that we recommend it especially for tall and thin people, to add volume to the upper body. A little catch-up lesson here if you haven't yet watched this video on how to dress according to your body type .
When you start dressing well, you don't think about volume as a priority. It's a shame because it's one of the main ways to highlight your figure.
Layering according to different morphologies
On tall and thin physiques
If you are rather tall and thin , do not hesitate to layer thick layers on your upper body. This will add volume to your bust and shoulders. Here you can turn to parkas, down jackets or any fairly thick coat.
The down jacket worn open over a denim jacket and a sweater adds volume to the upper body.
The principle is to balance the different layers that you superimpose. So if you opt for a thick top layer, underneath think about T-shirts, fairly thin shirts or even over-shirts or denim jackets.
But as you see, with a normal coat and a denim jacket, the result can work very well (and even surprisingly):
The "denim jacket" is, even if you don't necessarily think about it, a garment that is very suitable for layering. Photo from the excellent blog He Spoke Style .
You don't have to raise the collar but this outfit is a good example of how a denim jacket, framed by more elegant materials, can easily find its place.
Another way to practice layering in a streetwear style is to let the t-shirt stick out underneath a sweater. Be careful, on a very long tee, the style is immediately very sportswear :
We find our good old denim jacket with a very long t-shirt. If we do not recommend this "gimmick" for small figures, lovers of cutting-edge sportswear must necessarily go through it. Photo taken from the Represent brand lookbook.
On less slender physiques
If you're not necessarily tall, consider shorter jackets that allow the bottom layers to peek out . It's a good way to practice layering without necessarily adding too much volume to the upper body.
This type of shorter jacket is perfect for lengthening the silhouette.
A bit in the same spirit, if you are rather square at the shoulders, there is no need to add volume here. This does not mean that layering is forbidden to you. Luca practices it a lot while he is in this type of morphology.
What will make the difference is the thickness of the layers you choose. Turn to thinner layers, in particular light jackets such as safari jackets, military jackets or workwear .
Below, indulge in shirts - plaid, chambray, flannel, etc. - which you can wear open over a t-shirt or, on the contrary, under light sweaters that reveal the collar.
For example, a lightweight safari jacket works very well.
Here the objective is only to avoid the ball effect on the upper body which can quickly result in a misshapen silhouette. But don't worry too much about the right length of jacket or whether a shirt sticks out too much or too little over a sweater. Experiment, see what suits you or what doesn't, what makes your figure look bigger or bigger, etc. In short, try things 😉
John Wrazel - designer at Ralph Lauren - takes the logic much further by mixing formality and casualness and using a lot of vests, a key recurring element in most of his outfits :
A tweed vest between a shirt with a cutaway collar and an M65 parka: and presto, the surprising little layering but very well seen! Before you ask yourself how he manages to have so much taste, don't forget that it's his job!
1st tip: stack colors from lightest to darkest
The simplest way to proceed is to first assemble sober and safe colors: blue, beige, white, gray.
And go from lightest to darkest when you stack the layers .
This isn't a hard and fast rule, but in general it helps you create clothing combinations that work without risk of error.
The chambray shirt is a very easy piece to wear for layering. No difficulty here.
2nd tip: stack textures from the softest to the roughest
The other little rule that can help you is to keep soft textures (in the order silk, fine cotton, rougher cotton like Oxford) close to the body, and raw on the outer layers (in the order flannel , fleece, coarse wool, waxed cotton, leather) .
Look closely at the photos in the article and you will see that this rule is used in most cases.
We find soft textures close to the body and raw on the outer layers.
3rd tip: incorporate strong colors and daring patterns
The advantage that layering can have is to reveal only part of a garment.
We can therefore allow ourselves a brighter color or a daring pattern and wear it subtly without it monopolizing all the attention.
We all have THAT patterned shirt that we like but don't really know how to wear because it's a little offbeat or even out of fashion. The good trick ? Wear it open over a neutral-colored t-shirt or in shades close to your shirt with a cardigan or jacket on top, again in similar tones.
Certainly, the gray and burgundy checked shirt is not that complicated but worn alone, it would be much less interesting.
Layering starts from two visible layers . From there, you can play on details like rolling up your sleeves to reveal the cuffs of your shirt or, as in the example below, to create contrast between two colors and toning down one that is stronger than the other. other.
Workwear enthusiasts are familiar with this type of layering which lets the sleeves stick out with the famous “henley” t-shirt:
The t-shirt called "henley" is a long-sleeved t-shirt characteristic of the workwear style, as in this outfit from the Primer site . In France, it is the Hemen Biarritz brand that offers this type of piece.
4th tip: lighten an outfit that is too dark
Speaking of details, the other trick that layering allows is to light up an outfit that is too dark or whose colors are too close.
Allow a glimpse of the collar of a white t-shirt or shirt under a sweater for example. You can also brighten your face by wearing lighter colors near it and darker colors on the outside.
Here, the color of the sweater and the jacket merge. The collar of the shirt helps avoid a too dark look.
Don't be afraid to let the collar of your t-shirt stick out if the outfit lends itself to it. Here, it subtly recalls white pants.
5th tip: the monochrome color technique
Another way to exploit the superposition of several visible layers is to create a monochrome of colors, or even an outfit made up of a single color (= monochrome).
What will be interesting here will be to give relief to the look solely through the volume and the contrast between the materials.
The different shades of blue are highlighted. And the raw denim adds even more contrast.
Here the shades of gray are almost identical but the relief is at the level of the volume created by the coat worn on the shoulders.
6th tip: play on contrasts of colors, patterns, materials and styles at the same time
The most interesting contrasts to create are in the different fabrics. Rough, soft, thick, thin, smooth, etc. And these mixes are also easier to make than you think. You shouldn't be afraid to wear a denim jacket under a wool coat, quite the contrary!
It is in these specific cases that layering takes on its full interest in terms of style.
Don’t hesitate to mix different textures to really give consistency to an outfit. Don't be afraid to overdo it as we sometimes think, if you don't go with too complicated colors or a multitude of layers, there is no risk! On the contrary, the contrasts thus created will highlight each element of your look.
Think about the chunky knit cardigan and the sleeveless vest to create looks that are out of the ordinary!
I repeat myself but aim for originality. Get out of your comfort zone. Dare to make incongruous combinations to stand out. You don't have to be extreme though. For example, a thin turtleneck sweater - which generally doesn't have much interest in an outfit - can find its place under other layers that dress it up.
Beautiful mastery of layering in this outfit with a "Canadian suit" (= wearing a denim jacket with jeans) perfectly highlighted. Nothing is eccentric here.
If you are more daring, you can perfectly mix pieces belonging to different styles. The goal is to stay somewhat consistent, for example by choosing fabrics that match well together like denim, canvas and a thinner voile: all made of cotton
Credits: FASHIONBEANS.
And as always, John Wrazej is a master in the art of putting together pieces that we would never have imagined together. Remember what Benoît said about his intensive use of the vest...
Besides, I advise you to take a look at Barbour's lookbooks to find sources of inspiration! They are very rich and offer a lot of layering ideas.
It's not for nothing that a Barbour is ideal for putting together outfits in several layers. With a suit, denim, in a workwear style, or even more rock: it looks really good! And it won’t take long to say otherwise 😉
The wool of the vest, the waxed cotton of the jacket, the reminder of the checks between the shirt and the lining, everything is perfectly highlighted here.
Some mistakes to avoid
Think that layering starts from two layers. If you play on details like making a collar or the end of the sleeves stick out, it's interesting, but try playing with more layers. 3 or 4 is good. Beyond 5, it becomes very complicated and above all risky (and too hot).
Ok to mix styles but avoid overdoing it! Be subtle and keep a sort of common thread in the outfit : consistent materials, a play of color gradients, reminders of patterns, etc.
The rooms are far too far apart and there are no relevant reminders. An outfit that's not really credible on a daily basis...
And even more than mixing styles that are too opposite and inconsistent, pay attention to volumes.
By stacking too many layers on top and very thick (like a sweater under a big cardigan under a parka or down jacket) this risks creating too much volume on the upper body... And giving the impression that your legs are tiny . Not great.
The result doesn't really work... Does it? Impractical and inconsistent!
Finally, let go of the jackets and coats! We are far too likely to choose blue, gray or black, telling ourselves that we will wear them every day and that it will go with everything. So yes: it goes with everything, but it's boring... Dare a little color, pattern, or think about more unique jackets underneath.
A military jacket with camo patterns or an orange down jacket under a slightly sober coat will bring originality and cheerfulness to your look. And, believe me, in winter we really need it.
Finally, the last question we can ask ourselves is: should I choose a larger size if I plan to wear my coat or jacket with several layers underneath?
The answer is not obvious since it will depend on the type of jacket and coat. But generally speaking you don't need an upsizer. The fit and ease of these pieces accommodate up to three layers underneath.
If you want to wear more or you have very square shoulders, in this case, a size larger may be necessary. In any case, the best thing when buying is to try it on with the number of layers you plan to wear underneath.
Now it's your turn !
