Tips: How to choose and wear a men's sweater or cardigan?

A quick aside: the Woolmark label designates wool obtained from the shearing of healthy, living animals. All other designations - 100% wool, pure wool or simply wool - suggest potential treatments of the material or recycled wool.

But for a sweater or cardigan that is softer and more pleasant to wear , there are blends with cotton or cashmere. There are also some with synthetic materials: viscose, modal, polyester, acrylic, etc. .

Concerning the latter, make sure that the synthetic content does not exceed 30% (20% would be even better), but keep in mind that these 20 or 30% are not necessarily a bad thing. Adding a part of synthetic can provide more strength and robustness to the knit, while keeping the price low.

The disadvantage of synthetic is that thermal regulation is less effective than with 100% wool: the material absorbs odors more easily and does not manage excess heat well . But sometimes, adding synthetic remains the only way to have a piece with the appearance of a chunky knit at a very reasonable price.

On the other hand, beyond 30% synthetic, it's a firm "no" !

MERINO WOOL: YOUR ALLY AGAINST THE COLD

Another alternative: merino wool, my favorite. It comes from merino sheep, which originally originated in Spain (now they are found all over the world, especially in New Zealand and Australia). She is :

• Softer,
• Hotter,
• And more robust than classic wool.

That is the demand of the people ?

Sometimes you will see the designation Extrafine or Superfine Merino. This corresponds to the diameter of the hair but, despite my numerous researches, the figures are never the same .

For example, the Superfine grade corresponds to a fiber diameter between 17.6 and 18.5 microns on the official Australian Breeders website .

Except... on the website of the Australian Wool Promotion Association (a different but nevertheless state organization), the Superfine grade is equivalent to a diameter between 15.6 and 18.5 microns .

Except that... among Australian breeders, a grade below 17.5 microns corresponds to another name: Ultrafine !

Except... on the Wikipedia page for merino wool , Ultrafine designates diameters between 15 and 11.5 microns!

As for the name Extrafine , it is even more problematic: some say that it is the other name for Superfine , and others that it is an even finer wool than Ultrafine . In short, it’s a mess!

The only thing we can conclude from this is that the Extrafine or Superfine mentions are a good sign, as the material is softer than normal merino wool. Good luck finding your way there.

For comparison, the diameter of a cashmere fiber is between 14 and 18 microns... It is therefore possible to have wool as soft as cashmere, and it can go even further! For example, Loro Piana has managed to produce wool less than 11 microns in diameter.

ALPACA, CASHMERE, VIGONA: WHAT ARE “PRECIOUS” WOOLS WORTH?

Alpaca, camel and vicuña (from camelids ), cashmere and mohair (from goats), angora (from rabbit) and even yak wool are rarer and more noble materials . What are their real strengths?

Cashmere is the down or "undercoat" produced by Kashmiri goats . It is one of the finest hairs with vicuña and angora (the diameter of these fibers varies between 10 and 15 microns, compared to a range between 18 and 25 on already very fine merino wool). And the finer the hair, the softer it is!

Another fiber from goat, this time from Turkey, is mohair. Like cashmere, it is a light, silky, shiny, elastic, soft and warm material. If you see knitwear with long hairs sticking out, chances are there is mohair in that piece.

The alpaca and the vicuna are two relatively close species of camelids, native to South America. Their fibers are very soft, light and protect against very low temperatures.

The vicuña is the most luxurious of all because it is the finest, making it unaffordable for ordinary mortals . Allow around €10,000 for a vicuna jacket. Its insulating power and softness are said to be exceptional. The price of vicuña can be explained simply by the extreme rarity of world production.

Regarding the name baby alpaca , it designates the fibers from the first shearings, which are therefore finer (around 22.5 microns in diameter on average).

There is much less information on camel wool. We still know that it is a fine and soft fiber, which is similar to cashmere and is difficult to spin. In addition, the quality varies enormously depending on the different species and their origins!

These camelid wools are rarely dyed. On the one hand, to preserve the softness of the fibers; on the other hand, because their original color offers a much more beautiful natural result.

Angora is also very popular in luxury. The hairs, once combed, are very long and easy to work with: two important advantages. Its absorption power is very high.

Finally, there is also yak wool. This animal native to the Himalayas has a very long fleece that can protect it from temperatures around -40°C. It therefore produces one of the warmest wools available.

All these materials are rarer but also more fragile . They are very rarely found in a high percentage on a label. They are often mixed with each other or with classic wool, or even with synthetic fibers. Without that, the parts produced would be far too fragile... and way too expensive .

WHAT MAKES A HIGH-END KNIT AND WHY INVEST IN IT?

A CASE OF ASSEMBLY...

First, the way the room is designed plays an important role. There are two ways to do this:

• Cut and sewn ,
• And the re-mesh (or fully-fashioned ).

Cut and sew involves cutting out the different parts of the piece from a large piece of knitting and then sewing them together. The problem is that there is necessarily loss of material.

The fully-fashioned technique is different: we shape the piece entirely by knitting, there is no sewing. We assemble a sleeve directly by knitting it at the armhole. Likewise, the pockets will be knitted and not plated.

This second technique is the must in terms of quality. More refined, more solid and less material loss . Obviously, a fully-fashioned part will be more expensive since it requires more time and greater expertise.

Tarlach, with whom we worked for our cardigan in collaboration with Inis Meáin, explained this technique to us very well. You can find more details in a very good article (in English, but very visual) teaching you to distinguish a cut and sew from a remesh . You will see, after learning the “trick”, it becomes fun to see what method it is!

One thing to know about knitwear: as with shoes or leathers, you cannot cheat on quality. Here, it is less for the visual appearance of the material than for its duration over time: poor quality mesh will very quickly wear out and develop holes.

...AND DENSITY

Another important quality criterion is the density of the mesh. Concretely, when you look at a piece, you have to ask yourself if the knitting is tight and looks solid, or not . Even if it means putting the material to the test by stretching it slightly 6.

WHAT ABOUT MAINTENANCE AND WHY PILLING KNIT?

THE SWEATER THAT PILLS

My pilled sweater, help? No, don't be radical. Everyone has the right to a second chance.

As Geoffrey explained very well in his article on living clothes VS dead clothes , a pilling sweater is not a sign of poor quality .

It is a natural process of rejecting matter. On the other hand, pilling should appear during the first washes. then disappear 7.

Moreover, the phenomenon of pilling is particularly present on cashmere. So don't panic, let the material live.

BE CAREFUL OF RECEIVED IDEAS ABOUT GENTLENESS

Conversely, be wary of clothes that show no pilling when purchased: they are probably hiding several treatment sessions which have damaged the material. Pilling may appear... but later and for a long time. Damage !

It's exactly the same problem with the softness of a sweater. Be wary if nothing on the label justifies this softness (like merino wool or cashmere): the material has surely been treated and therefore necessarily damaged!

Wool can be rough - as we saw previously - and yet of very good quality. It will soften over time. Well, we're not talking about a miracle either! I will never wear my virgin wool sweater next to my skin, even after 10 years of living together.

KNIT MAINTENANCE

Concerning the maintenance of wool, machine washing is authorized at 30° maximum . The same goes for cotton stitches. For other, more precious materials, hand wash only and cold.

There are special shampoos for wool. Be careful, don't use too much! The more products you use, the more the material will be damaged. Especially since wool breathes and doesn't get dirty much, so it's useless. Oh, and there's no need to let your sweater soak for an hour; Immersing the garment in water for a minute is enough!

Finally, we never put a stitch in the dryer and we don't dry it on a hanger either. FORBIDDEN. Dry flat only, otherwise the garment will lose its shape.

Note from Benoît: Having spoken with professionals in the sector, among them, very few wash their large knitwear more than once a year... although knowing that there are some who never wash it. Remember: due to the hydrophobic nature of wool, it does not absorb odors and perspiration does not become encrusted.

HOW TO WEAR KNIT?

The stitch therefore designates all knitted items. Finally, a large number of men's wardrobe items belong to this category:

• Hosiery 8,
• Sweatshirts (cotton fleece),
• Polo shirts (in cotton jersey),
• The hoodies,
• And even t-shirts .

But here we will not be interested in these pieces that we have already discussed. So what are we going to talk about? What if we talked about me?

WEAR SMALL KNIT CARDIGANS AND SWEATERS

The small knit is often more difficult to wear and offers less variety of use than the large, very thick knit. Already, because it does not have the raw side that the latter can have, but also because it is less warm.

Logically, it is therefore more suitable for mid-season, although it may find use for layering in winter.

Relatively thin and light woolen sweaters are particularly attractive. They are generally comfortable - especially if you choose them in merino wool or cashmere - and can be worn under thicker cardigans, or even under a coat if it is fitted and warm enough.

They are also practical over a shirt in winter, when temperatures drop. I find that round necks are easier to wear and more modern. Now, if you also want to add a tie, you can opt for a V-neck as long as you don't choose it too deep.

Generally speaking, the collar of your sweater should reach the level of your collarbones.

There are a lot of fine sweaters with textured material. They are ideal to be worn alone because they are less "boring" than classic models. But if you prefer a smooth texture, don't be afraid to choose bright colors that are a little out of the ordinary: green, mustard yellow, red...

Another fine knit that we tend to forget: light turtleneck sweaters. They offer stylish looks worn under a denim jacket or any other slightly original jacket such as work overalls, military jacket, Barbour, etc. They will most of the time be made of cotton because they are very thin pieces.

Personally, as a woman, I'm not a big fan of fine knit cardigans for a man. I've never really seen successful outfits with such a piece. In fact, I have a hard time imagining what a man could wear it with. On a shirt, you risk seeing the creases in the sleeves appear. On a t-shirt, I find the look either too feminine or too flat.

In this sense, I find that large knits are much more interesting!

Note from Benoit: I disagree, a thin cardigan under a suit jacket can be great.

INTEGRATING CHUNKY KNIT CARDIGANS AND SWEATERS INTO YOUR LOOKS

A cardigan and/or a big, thick knit sweater are truly one of the basics in men's fashion. Having at least one chunky knit piece seems essential to me , especially for winter.

If you haven't yet tasted the joys of a winter in chunky knits, you're missing out.

A cardigan is more versatile than a sweater, in the sense that you can wear it with different pieces. But a sweater has the advantage of being worn alone and therefore less hassle.

One item that I find really interesting is the big Aran sweater. A true heritage of Irish culture and in particular of the Aran Islands (of which Inis Meáin is a part), it is steeped in history. It's not just the big cable-knit ecru wool sweater.

The chunky knit turtleneck sweater is also much more versatile than you might think. It wears extremely well under a blazer and even with a full suit . Bring out the Sean Connery who lies dormant within you!