Advice: The polo guide, which cut and quality to choose? How to wear it?

Conseils : Le guide du polo, quelle coupe et qualité choisir ? Comment le porter ?
The polo guide: its origins, finishes, styles and models... Discover how to choose and wear the men's polo shirt, a summer wardrobe essential!
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Summary

some ingenious little finds on polo, it's Max Rosse . For example, the sleeves have an elastic system that adapts perfectly to the arm, and the waist at the hips is adjustable. And finally, there is a hidden and fine buttonhole, details that I like on a polo shirt!
Polo Max Rosse

The work on the buttonhole is very nice on this Max Rosse polo shirt.

POLOS WITH SPICY PRINTS

Whimsical Etro Polo

Etro always offers paisley print pieces (or "paisley"), fanciful but very interesting.

In reality, it's easy to find fancy polo shirts: take advantage of them to add a little pep to more conservative outfits. In summer as in winter, we like to see some bright and tangy colors on a polo shirt, with jeans and a pair of white sneakers like here. Once again, the polo has the advantage of being more chic than a t-shirt, and less formal than a shirt.

WEAR A BRIGHT COLOR POLO WITH WHITE TROUSERS (OR SHORTS)

Bright blue polo shirt with white shorts/Bermuda shorts and loafers

White easily enhances color.

Summer is therefore a good season to wear the polo shirt with white pants or shorts. Intense and deep colors or pastel tones, it will be according to your desire. The blue palettes - navy in particular - will lean towards a navy inspiration, to be completed with a blazer and a pair of sneakers, moccasins or even boat shoes.

ON THE PODIUMS: DESIGNER POLOS

Designer polo shirts - walking on the catwalk

Finally, as I said above, designers sometimes let loose on the polo shirt! Prada works it oversized and worn over a tropical print shirt, while Ana Locking plays on textures with a top woven from different materials (rafia, ropes...) and colors. Although rarely included in key trends, the polo regularly appears in designer collections.

Note from Benoît: I strongly encourage you to look at polo shirts in a high-end brand, it is very interesting to see how a designer manages to infuse creativity into a piece that is, basically, very refined.

But concretely, how do you recognize a quality classic polo shirt , the kind of indestructible piece that can go with everything? I offer you some ideas!

HOW TO BUY A QUALITY POLO SHIRT?

THE MATERIAL: A BEAUTIFUL STITCH

If jersey, more often used for T-shirts, can be used to make a polo shirt, I cannot advise you enough to go for a dive.

Robust and elegantly textured, it constitutes the soul of the classic polo shirt . Far from being rigid and cardboard, this type of knitting requires a significant quantity of cotton given the complexity of its production: it alternates stretched threads and loose threads, totaling 2 weave threads and 2 weft threads, i.e. 4 threads for one point.

Weaving details

With the light, you can clearly see the details of the weaving. We also notice a material that is a little too thin...

To recognize good stitching, it is important to note a certain thickness of the material , although some fabrics for summer are designed a little thinner. The weave must be extremely regular and tight . The most effective way to test this is simply to bring it to light:

Thickness of the pique of a polo shirt

Here, in bright light, the thickness of the sharpness appears clearly.

At the collar, make sure of one essential thing: if it is ribbed (which is more than desirable), it must be a little rigid and thick, so that it forms a beautiful curve coming to rest on your shoulders !

Because in the long term, thin collars - and sleeve edges - will twist, even at the biggest luxury brands like Hermès! By pinching the collar and pulling lightly, you should feel resistance. Otherwise, a ripple will form and will give a very inelegant appearance to the collar and sleeves.

Collar of a Hermés polo shirt and a Lacoste polo shirt

Hermès (€290) VS Lacoste (€89). "There's no picture" as they say: the material of the Hermès collar is simply poorly chosen because it is not very suitable. With after-sales service blaming the customer, by the way... Note from Benoît: I have to admit it, but yes, the collar of the Lacoste polo shirt has a much better hold than the Hermès polo shirt.

MAKING THE POLO SHIRT: CLEAN AND CLEAN ASSEMBLY

Assembling the polo shirt is - theoretically - simple; and it is relatively easy to check whether it has been done well.

Inside, we recognize good quality in the regularity and especially the solidity of the overlock seams (90% of cases) joining the front and back of the garment.

There may be a few threads sticking out, or even a slightly rough appearance: the main thing is that if you stretch the joint from side to side on the outside, it remains very clean and does not relax. The risk, especially when washing and spinning, would be to have a bend/cut that would loosen in a heterogeneous and unaesthetic way.

Side seam of a polo shirt

Even when stretching the fabric, the side seam on the sides does not move.

The same goes for all the seams (armholes, bottom of the polo shirt, sleeves, etc.), the robustness of which is essential for the good support of the polo shirt. At the collar in particular, we frequently see a border placed inside or even outside the polo shirt to hide a thick seam, and hold the normally thick fabric in place .

Tight and regular sewing of a polo shirt

A very tight and regular overlock.

WHICH MODEL TO CHOOSE? CONSTRUCTION DETAILS THAT ARE NOT

The buttonhole usually has 2 button tabs superimposed (one with the buttons, the other with the loops), sometimes 4 layers of fabric (when these inserts are double-sided).

A lot of material, and therefore a risk of weakening the thinner parts at the corners of the tab. Nothing serious on the horizon if the corners do not weaken the dive.

Blue and black striped polo shirt - focus angles of the buttonhole placket

That’s the risk. So be sure to check that the fabric at this level does not already appear loose/threatening when purchased.

Finally, a clean armhole is easy and always a pleasure. Put on the polo shirt, your trained eye will do the rest!

OTHER SMALL DETAILS THAT CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE

Depending on the cut of the polo shirt, reinforcements at the side slits are more than welcome, even essential on long models that go below the waist. Friction, washing and various tensions induced by your active life can weaken your polo shirt ( I feel like I'm making an ad for a beauty product) . A reinforcement placed inside will permanently protect the part from the risk of tearing.

Side slits of a polo shirt

To avoid tears, prefer models with reinforcement as in the picture on the right.

At the collar, a reinforcement can be provided at the back in order to maintain it well and prevent it from sagging. All the little details count, even if they are a little superfluous but denote special attention paid to the product!

Polo collar with reinforcements

Finally, as always, we also appreciate the mother-of-pearl buttons, mounted in a cross or not: I must admit that the only polo button that popped out of the thirty that I have - yes, I really wear a lot of them - was mounted in cross stitch so good... I also advise you to close / open the buttons to make sure that they do not open on their own: poorly symptomatic of tight seams, too wide loops, in short a poorly designed buttonhole!

HOW TO CHOOSE A POLO SHIRT BASED ON YOUR MORPHOLOGY?

IF YOU HAVE A SLIM PHYSICAL

Being too thin is not necessarily an advantage when it comes to finding a well-cut and suitable top.

But to hell with apprehensions, the polo shirt offers many possibilities, even for tall, thin people! If a garment that is too close to the body would be inappropriate (see black and white), you can however count on the fitted cuts from Lacoste for example. By buttoning the high collar, you will enhance the shoulders more!

Note from Geoffrey: Junk De Luxe polo shirts are well suited for small people.

IF YOU ARE OF AVERAGE BODY

The choices available to you are endless.

In a straight cut, you will opt for a slightly casual and comfortable style for the summer. The slightly "loose" side can have its charm worn in a really casual outfit.

In a fitted cut, your shoulders and your middle will be highlighted, especially if you opt for plain. The advantage of this type of model is that they go everywhere, in a casual or more formal outfit.

IF YOU HAVE A MORE “STURDY” PHYSICS

It is not necessarily easy to find a suitable polo shirt when you are overweight, because if you opt for a cut that is too straight, the "floating" effect will be disastrous, but a fitting that is too close to the body will reveal shapes. equally unsightly.

But fortunately, there are many compromises available to you. Certain brands like Eden Park, for example, have particular expertise for strong physiques (muscular, but not only). But don't hesitate to go to other stores (Lacoste, again...) because really, a well-cut polo shirt can adapt to many body types!

WHERE TO FIND BEAUTIFUL POLOS?

  • Max Rosse , as I said, is making a real effort to innovate in polo,
  • Kent Wang offers very well priced polo shirts, with a nice shirt collar (thanks to Bobi for the link),
  • Theory , which offers us a light and unstructured polo shirt, all in sobriety,
  • G. Inglese became known for its "polo shirts" halfway between polo shirts, with simply sublime tailoring (but with a website from another age).

Here is most of what we can say to guide you in purchasing a polo shirt. At your disposal if you have any questions!

Romain Rousseau, luxury passion

Seeing a tailor mark his canvas impresses me, watching an embroiderer twirl her needle gives me chills, admiring perfect leather makes me smile. I am passionate about Luxury for what it is (rigor, excellence, love of beauty), and even more I love to share and transmit this passion.

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