While purchases of new clothes in France are declining ( -2.9% in 2018 ), second-hand clothes are on the rise.
The research firm Deloitte estimates that this market quadrupled in volume between 2015 and 2018, reaching 100 billion euros in turnover worldwide.
The French market is estimated at 1 billion euros according to the French Fashion Institute, which also states that 30% of French people bought a second-hand item of clothing in 2018.
Having become a thriving business, the second-hand market is unique in many ways, and it is easy to feel a little lost, to make mistakes, if you are not a little careful.
So here is a practical guide to buying second-hand clothes, where you will find all my tips and advice.
This topic is a continuation of the one written in 2015 .
We won't talk about thrift stores here, a slightly different subject that has already been covered here:
WHAT SITES ARE WE TALKING ABOUT?
When it comes to second-hand clothing, there are many sites and platforms. Here is a non-exhaustive list:
- Vinted is probably the best known . Created in Lithuania in 2010, the service has been available in France since 2013. You will find everything there: from fast-fashion products for a few euros to high-end products worth several hundred.
- Videdressing . French platform created in 2009, Videdressing focuses more on mid-range, high-end and luxury clothing (leather goods in particular). It is characterized by its unique " Satisfied or Refunded " service which allows you to return a purchased product for a refund regardless of the reason.
- Leboncoin . With 28 million unique visitors , Leboncoin is one of the most popular sites in France. You will really find everything there, including clothes and shoes. The site launched a secure payment service in September 2018 , a free option facilitating transactions between individuals . And in case you didn't know, Leboncoin bought Videdressing at the end of 2018 .
- eBay . Created in 1995, the American site has a somewhat austere image today. By getting your hands dirty, you will find some very beautiful things, less on French brands, much more on international brands.
- Classifieds LikeUnCamion , where you will find a more limited selection of good deals but closer to the brand environment mentioned on BonneGueule.
- Marrkt is an English site specializing in the resale of high-end branded items such as Yuketen , De Bonne Facture , RRL , Alden or Gitman Vintage. The prices are rather high for second-hand items, but this is justified by the quality of the service offered (curation of items, beautiful photos and measurements for each ad, possible returns for reimbursement, etc.).
- Grailed . Little known in France at the moment, Grailed is a sort of American Vinted dedicated to the resale of clothing from high-end, luxury, hype or on the contrary very confidential brands.
- Vestiaire Collective . A platform specializing in high-end and luxury items, Vestiaire Collective is characterized by physical authentication of the conformity of each item before sending it to the buyer.
As an anecdote, the entire Vinted site was written in the feminine until 2018: a member of the community was called "a Vintie" for example. However, at the time you could already find men's clothing. Since then, the wording of the site has been changed.
WHAT TO KEEP IN MIND
When hunting for second-hand clothes, a big jungle opens up to you.
Be curious. You never really know what you're going to stumble upon. It's part of the game. Keep an open mind and let yourself be surprised.
To avoid getting overwhelmed by all this offer: start by making a list of the clothes you want to buy at a given time , then look for what is offered by the brands you like for this item of clothing .
So many choices... keep a cool head.
In fact, what we advise you to buy second-hand is similar to what we recommend during the sales. On this subject, I invite you to (re)watch the episode of Sape m'en Cinq on the sales , some of whose advice is echoed here:
- Set a budget per room
- Shop wisely: Just because something is cheap doesn't mean it's a good deal. Seeing normally expensive clothes offered at a low price can be a bit overwhelming and lead to impulse purchases. Be careful!
- Use filters ... or not. Since second-hand clothes are often poorly referenced by sellers, you could miss out on clothes that you might like by being too aggressive on the filters.
THE ADVANTAGES OF BUYING SECOND-HAND
The first advantage that will come to your mind will surely be the low prices.
And you're right. You can find a number of items in good condition at (very) low prices on specialist websites. Buying second-hand is therefore a good way to boost your wardrobe at a lower cost.
One of my latest second-hand purchases: this Cadot double-breasted blazer from the spring/summer 2017 collection. Like new, €80 instead of around €350 at full price.
You will also find clothes from old collections or rare models, from a limited edition for example.
Finally, there is an ecological dimension : buying second-hand clothing means making the circular economy work. We make the most of a good that has already been produced, already bought new by a first person, by giving it a second life.
POINTS OF WATCH
MAKE SURE THE GARMENT FITS RIGHT
If the issue of size is important when ordering clothing online , it becomes even more so when buying second-hand clothing because, sometimes, you will not be able to return it for a refund if it does not suit you.
Vinted for example does not offer returns for refund if the garment does not fit you. A return is only possible if the garment is damaged during transport, or if it is different from the one shown or described.
It is therefore up to you to put all the chances on your side and to interpret, or even to seek out information:
- If you know your size for the brand in question or if you are a "standard" size, that's best, obviously.
This is a Suitsupply jacket in size 50. I own several Suitsupply jackets in size 50 that fit me. If I were to purchase this one, I'm pretty sure it would fit me too.
- If measurements are given by the seller, I invite you to compare them with a garment that you have and that fits you well.
Need advice on how to take and understand the measurements of a garment? Follow the guide.
WHAT TO DO IF THERE ARE NO MEASUREMENTS OR THE SELLER DOES NOT RESPOND TO US?
In this case, I invite you first of all to take a look at the brand's website, which may offer a size guide.
Suitsupply offers a size guide for all of its products.
If the garment is still on sale, try to find visuals of the garment worn on a mannequin to get an idea of the fit . Keep in mind that most of the time, e-shop mannequins are rather tall (1m80-85) and thin (65-70kg).
© Wondering how these Bleu de Paname pants fit? Here's a good idea of the cut of the pants. We can see that the pants are rather long, and that the cut is slightly carrot. Source: e-shop Centre Commercial
If you can't find anything, I recommend looking for other listings for the same type of clothing that have measurements listed. This doesn't guarantee that your garment will have these measurements exactly, but it can give you an idea.
Example: for my Gitman Vintage shirt featured in my nuggets , there were no measurements in the ad. I went looking for other ads for shirts from the brand, and I found several, with measurements. They weren't the same each time, but they were close, which allowed me to get an idea of how the clothes from this brand were cut.
The shirt in question.
WHAT IS A “GOOD PRICE” FOR SECOND-HAND CLOTHING?
I want to say... it depends . Because it's the truth.
However, such information is not going to help you much.
Here are some techniques and tips for understanding the "right" purchase price for a second-hand garment:
THE VIDEDRESSING METHOD
When you put a garment on sale on the Videdressing platform, when you indicate the price, a small bubble appears. Here is what the platform recommends in terms of prices:
- New with tag: 50 to 60% of the retail price.
- New without tags: 40 to 50% of the retail price.
- Very good condition: 30 to 40% of the retail price.
- Good condition: 20 to 30% of the retail price.
- Average condition: 10% to 20% of the retail price.
This seems to me to be a good basis for getting an idea of a price: most of the time, a second-hand garment will be at least half the price of its new, boutique price , even if there are many exceptions.
NOTE FROM NICOLÒ
Regarding these exceptions, know how to recognize when you have one on your hands.
Is it a piece from a foreign label (American or Japanese for example) little distributed in Europe, with a strong desirability for enthusiasts? Assume that the piece can be worth 10 to 20% more depending on its condition.
Is it a luxury brand with a big reputation? Same thing, or even more so for some flagship products, when they are in new condition.
There are even pieces and brands that enjoy a certain "hype", and which are sometimes sold more expensive than their new price, due to the large gap between their limited availability and the craze for the brand. I am thinking for example of Balenciaga, Yeezy or Supreme. But in this case, we more often talk about " resell " than second-hand...
WHAT IS THE PRICE CHARGED BY OTHER SELLERS?
Look at the second-hand prices charged on other products of the brand, by other sellers.
Wondering what a "good price" is for a pair of second-hand APC jeans? Browse through the brand's jeans listings on various sales platforms.
A whole host of APC jeans on Vinted. Prices ranging from single to quadruple.
IS THE BRAND HAVING SALES?
You can also check if the brand of the product you are interested in offers discounts during sales, for example.
If a brand makes shirts for €100, and these drop to €60 or €70 in sales, look for a lower price, around €30/40 for example.
On the other hand, if another brand makes shirts for €100 but never sells them, a second-hand price of €50 is already much more acceptable.
Hast doesn't do discounts during sales, so €29 instead of €54 all year round is a pretty good price.
SCAMS AND COUNTERFEITS
HOW TO PROTECT YOURSELF AGAINST SCAMS?
- Of course, if you want to buy a product from a high-end or luxury brand, whose price indicated by the seller is very low, be careful.
Let's all spare a special thought for this British man who bought an Xbox One on eBay and received... a photo of an Xbox One.
- The safest way is to buy on platforms acting as trusted third parties such as Vinted or Videdressing.
This secure operation for the buyer is very well explained by Videdressing .
If you go through a site that does not offer this system, I advise you to send the payment by Paypal using the "Purchase of goods and services" function. For a small commission, this service protects you in the event of a problem.
More information about this service here.
DAVID'S TIP
I'm taking advantage of the fact that I'm talking about Paypal to mention a little-known service offered by Paypal: free returns. Or rather refunded returns .
How does it work? If you return an item purchased through Paypal , you pay the return shipping costs, request a refund , and Paypal will then refund you directly to your account within 7 business days.
This service is free , with a limit of 12 reimbursements per year, for a maximum unit amount of €30 .
Click here to activate this service.
WHAT ABOUT COUNTERFEITS?
You will find an article here with our advice on how to identify a counterfeit luxury product.
However, BonneGueule does not offer a service for identifying counterfeits or authenticating luxury products.
We receive these types of emails quite regularly. We are not able to respond to them.
I advise you to use a specialized service like Authentifier.com :
WHICH PARTS SHOULD I BUY SECOND-HAND?
Now let's review the different types of clothing and see if they are worthwhile purchases to make second-hand.
Keep in mind that it is best to clean a second-hand garment when you receive it.
T-SHIRTS AND SHIRTS
Why not if they have been worn little.
Check that:
- The garment does not have yellowish marks under the armpits
- In the case of a shirt, that the collar stays in place and does not "bubble"
© Credit: Styleforum.
Here is a shirt collar that "bubbles". A sign that the iron-on is of rather poor quality, or that the shirt has already been used a lot. In any case, it is not very pretty.
KNITWEAR AND SWEATSHIRTS
Rather yes.
Be careful for any holes or excessive pilling.
A few bobbles are not necessarily a sign of poor quality. Want to know more about it? Click here.
You can also ask the seller how the garment was stored : if a large sweater has "hung out" on a hanger for many weeks, it may have become deformed under its weight.
OUTERWEAR (PARKAS, COATS, BOMBERS)
A fairly safe piece to buy second-hand, due to its relatively slow wear.
Be careful about the condition of the zips if the garment has any. Don't hesitate to ask the seller if they slide well, if they are not damaged.
© Source: Pxhere
Well, this is off to a bad start.
JEANS
Why not, it's a type of product where you can find very good deals.
Be careful of:
- The cut , obviously. Just because the jeans are your size doesn't mean the cut will suit you. Don't hesitate to ask the seller for more information. If you're eyeing a pair of Naked&Famous jeans, knowing whether they're a Super Guy or an Easy Guy can already help you a lot.
- Wear , especially around the crotch
- Relaxation . A pair of worn jeans is potentially already relaxed and won't relax much more on you.
- Washing (and fading) , especially in the case of raw jeans. Because raw jeans have a whole particular approach behind their maintenance , it is good to find out how many times and how they have been washed. Also check that you like the patina it has taken on over time.
© Source: Bespoke Man
A crotch that is starting to show signs of weakness.
SUIT
Why not.
Check that the level of wear is not too high. Check that the elbows, knees or crotch are not shiny for example.
© Source: Clothing Alterations Manchester
A badly damaged jacket elbow. That said, it is repairable with the application of leather patches over it to hide the wear.
Also pay attention to any alterations made by the first buyer : if you are tall, be careful that the suit has not been altered too short by its first owner.
SHOES
It's debatable.
Some will argue that hygienically, it is not great. This is understandable. For this concern, cleaning and disinfecting sprays exist.
Despite everything, the temptation is great when you see the good deals that can be found there.
Some nice Sanders half-hunters in very good condition at €134 including delivery. It's tempting.
For dress shoes, Jordan and Nicolò rightly informed me that a pair of worn leather shoes will stretch to the foot of its original wearer.
But, as Jordan says , " no two feet are the same ."
That relaxed shoe may not fit your foot, even if the size and basic last are good. The point of buying new shoes is to be able to make them fit your own foot.
NOTE FROM NICOLÒ:
In addition to relaxation, GoodYear welted shoes have a layer of cork between the insole (inner) and wear sole (outer). When you "make" a new shoe, this layer sags by molding to the shape of the foot, and serves as plantar support... So if your gait and that of the previous wearer were too different, this can cause some discomfort. And this discomfort, in the very long term, can turn into orthopedic problems, so be careful, especially with pairs that already have a high level of wear.
So, I would recommend buying your dress shoes new instead. Spending a little more to get a new pair that fits you well, with the option to return them for a refund if needed, seems worth it to me.
Because finding the size and shape of shoes that suits you is not necessarily an easy thing.
A half-hunter from Orban's , of very respectable quality, for €160 new . It's worth the cost.
If, despite everything, you want to buy a pair of shoes on a second-hand site, you will be advised to buy them new or in very good condition. This will typically happen on a pair too small or too big for the first buyer, who will not have worn them much.
DAVID'S TIP
I'm taking advantage of the fact that we're talking about shoes and second-hand goods to share another little-known piece of information: Meermin sells on eBay the pairs that don't pass quality control. The account is called goodyearshoes, and it's happening here.
You can find everything there, even women's shoes and sometimes accessories like belts or small leather goods.
You can find everything there, even women's shoes and sometimes accessories like belts or small leather goods.
All pairs are new, therefore unworn , and have small defects which are shown in the photo, so that you know exactly what you are buying.
This is the kind of small flaw you can have. It seems perfectly acceptable to me.
The models go to the highest bidder (auction). To give you an idea, you will have about a hundred euros per pair , to which you must add 20€ of shipping costs (fixed amount). This is interesting, knowing that Meermin is a brand already offering an aggressive quality/price ratio at full price.
I see three constraints to this good plan:
- Availability is scattered . If you don't see anything in the store, it's because the brand has nothing to offer. And when pairs are available, the sizes and models are random. If you're looking for a size of a color of a pair specifically, you risk waiting a long time.
- Returns are not accepted . You must know your shoe size well on their different shapes . Jordan talked about this topic in this article .
- These sales work with an auction system , which must be mastered beforehand.
Here is a brief explanation of eBay auctions in a few key points:
- An auction has an end date. The person with the highest bid wins the item.
- Placing a bid is binding. You cannot withdraw and you must pay the amount if you win the item.
- You can increase your bid amount if necessary, but you cannot lower it.
- eBay offers an automated bidding system. Here's how it works:
- To maximize your chances of winning an auction, I advise you to be present to bid manually in the last few minutes before it ends.
For sneakers, these considerations of form and relaxation are less of a concern. Check that the leather is in good condition, that the sole is not holed or unstuck, that the stitching is holding well, and you can easily replace the insole if necessary.
Also ask if it is French or Italian size. For information, you have to remove a size to go to Italian size .
ACCESSORIES
Yes !
On accessories like ties, pocket squares, belts, bags or scarves, you can go for it.
Check the size anyway:
- If they are not listed, ask for the dimensions of the bag you are interested in (height, width, depth)
- How to determine the right size for a belt? All our advice here.
- Not all pocket squares are the same size. The larger the pocket square, the more material you will have to make original folds . The same goes for scarves.
Jordan is wearing a generously sized Inouitoosh scarf here.
UNDERWEAR
Obviously not recommended unless they are new, still in their packaging.
THE FINAL WORD
Since this is probably the main factor that pushes you to buy second-hand, and as mentioned above, do not absolutely look for the lowest prices or the largest percentage reductions compared to the base price.
You will also notice that the least expensive clothes are not necessarily those that you want the most : very often, they are similar to default choices.
If you are just starting to search on Vinted and the like, be patient and take the time to familiarize yourself with how the different platforms work.
And if by mistake you buy a second-hand garment that doesn't fit you, or you don't like it when you receive it, you can always resell it. Especially thanks to our guide to reselling second-hand clothing.
