I partially addressed the subject in the article dedicated to accessories that easily allow you to personalize your style without taking any risks. I wanted to go into the subject a little more following requests from some of you (and also because it's an accessory that I particularly like).
The clutch, an accessory with false preconceptions
Who says “pocket pocket” does not necessarily mean “suit”!
I am giving you a list of the different assumptions that I have heard to help you remove and erase the false clichés once and for all.
“The cover is too dressy”
Certainly, it brings a touch of elegance but does not radically change the style of your outfit: it is still less obvious than a tie for example. And it all depends on how you fold the pouch (I'll come back to this later in the article).
“The cover is for weddings”
This is consistent with the previous belief. We find it in special events such as weddings where tradition requires us to be very elegant (an article is also devoted to it: how to choose a suit for a wedding ). We often see the clutch at weddings because it is perceived as elegant, but we can also wear it every day to give a little something extra to our outfit and, above all, add personality .
We often associate the pocket square with the suit because it was worn exclusively in this way in the past. However, the men's wardrobe has evolved since then, giving way to a multiplicity of clothing combinations and therefore styles.
Today, it is no longer shocking to wear it with a blazer and raw jeans for example (and a shirt of course). You can wear it in a number of situations:
- At work : with a suit and according to the dress code (if you have one in your professional environment).
- The weekend : to give a touch of elegance to your outfit without sacrificing comfort (this allows you to abandon the tie that you can wear during the week out of necessity).
- For a date (gallant or not): it's a way to make a good impression, while keeping your own style and without overdoing it (i.e. without giving the impression of spending 3 hours in front of the mirror at get dressed). This is what we call natural elegance (or the famous sprezzatura ).
“The cover is for dandies”
I hear this observation often and I can understand it. The word dandy refers to someone who is overdressed in everyday life. We can feel uncomfortable around these people because we think they are elitist when, very often, they are quite simple people (in the good sense of the word) who simply take a lot of pleasure in dressing.
In short, it's a judgment that we've all made at least once and which remains too caricatured. The tie and pocket square combination, for example, is entirely possible provided it is done well. The only rule to follow: the tie and the pocket square must be different.
“The cover is not for me”
To think that the cover is dedicated to a style is to put up barriers unnecessarily. It's not because it's a rather elegant accessory that you can't associate it with several styles and especially with your own style : quite the contrary! Many of you don't dare wear it for fear of looking too dressy: think again, it all depends on how you wear it.
Just the way you fold it will reveal that you have taken ownership of the pouch. The material chosen also plays a big role. Go gradually, you don't have to wear them every day (it's not even recommended).
Test it initially in an environment where you feel comfortable doing it and then extend it to another environment (like work for example) and see the reactions that come from it. You will see, you will be very pleasantly surprised by the reactions (especially female compliments).
Testing Pochette Square pouches
Pochette Square is an e-shop that offers a multitude of pouches and there is something for everyone. They offer their own brand, but also other brands (often a little more expensive). I tested 5 pouches from their brand with different styles and materials. Furthermore, I was pleasantly surprised by the very educational content around the cover available on their site: useful information, we want more!
Here are the pouches tested. I deliberately chose several styles and several materials (linen, silk, chambray and cotton) to show you that we can reappropriate them all.
Choosing your pockets is all well and good, but you still need to know how to fold them. I will therefore give you the main, easily achievable folds that you can adopt on a daily basis. As you can see, it’s not about spending 20 minutes folding your wallet.
Flat folding: the ultimate all-purpose folding
Cotton is perfect for this type of folding
because it remains rigid and maintains the fold.
It is preferable to slip the pocket behind the lapel even if there is no contraindication.
And here is a variation of the flat fold by shifting the back part of the pocket. This fold is useful to break up the somewhat strict look of Don Draper (in Mad Men) with a more formal pocket square for example.
We like it or we don't like it: for my part, I like to add little touches of fantasy like polka dot socks.
Gant Rugger blazer, Saint Sens shirt, Dnm Pieces chinos, When I was Seven7een belt, desert boots and Selected socks.
Style tips : the camo pattern echoes the beige of the chinos, allowing the pocket to blend in better with the outfit. This is a trick you can use when you decide to insert accessories with strong enough patterns (or colors). Finally, the different shades of blue prevent you from having a monochrome outfit.
Point folding: the elegant asset
A tip (no we are not talking about the tactical composition of the France team)
With a pocket square folded into one point, there is one rule to respect: that it be parallel to the lapel of the blazer.
This is the easiest point fold to do.
Saint Sens shirt, Carven blazer
Style advice : the white clutch surrounded by red gives dynamism and vitality to your outfit. The reminder with the collar of the shirt allows you to harmonize the whole with ease. If you want to be even more dressed up (without overdoing it), you can add a knitted silk tie, you will look great!
To learn how to make this fold, check out the Pochette Square explanatory video .
Two points (the famous 4-4-2, ok I'll stop)
Folding with 2 points is less formal than that with 1 point: it breaks the too uniform appearance and is not harder to do. Note: the first point does not have to be parallel to the lapel of the jacket, it can be slightly more at an angle.
Gant Rugger Blazer.
Style advice : the chambray pocket creates a gradient of colors between the dark blue of the jacket and the light blue of the pocket and the shirt: the weft thread gives character to this accessory, thus allowing you to subtly create this shades of blue. Beyond the colors, the difference in materials of each piece (cotton for the shirt, cotton-linen for the blazer and chambray for the pocket square) also brings depth to the outfit and a touch of originality.
To learn how to make this fold, check out the Pochette Square explanatory video .
Three tips (for the most daring among you)
The difficulty increases, we are clearly on a more sophisticated folding. I will also stop at 3 points because after that it is too much for my taste (from 4 points and all the variants that exist).
The 3 points do not need to be exactly the same size, it must remain natural (and it reduces unnecessary headaches). On contemporary blazers, the chest pocket is often close to the lapel, do not hesitate to pass the pocket over the lapel: no one will blame you.
Come on, let’s go for a drink on the terrace where my pastis is waiting for me 🙂
Style advice : you see, the whole thing is coherent and the risk-taking in combining colors is close to zero. The clutch is a very good accessory to add a little something extra to a somewhat classic outfit. I particularly like this rather spontaneous elegant/casual side.
To learn how to make this fold, check out the Pochette Square explanatory video .
The bouffant effect folding: relaxed elegance
Yellow is not a color much worn by men but in small touches, it is entirely possible. As we saw previously, playing with materials and textures is interesting to create contrasts in styles.
No particular rule for the puffed fold, you simply have to adjust the pocket in relation to the chest pocket according to your moods. The only constraint: this fold is exclusively reserved for silk pockets because the fluidity of the material is the only one to offer a natural result (even if linen can be considered if the pocket is not too thick but the result will be less beautiful) .
Style advice : you see, yellow remains discreet while bringing vitality to your outfit, this is the advantage of the clutch: it does not take up too much space in a look. The contrast of materials and textures will give depth to your style (always without overdoing it). Breaking out of boring outfits is easier than it seems!
To learn how to make this fold, check out the Pochette Square explanatory video .
The winged point fold: guaranteed style takeoff
No it's not silk, but cotton. But silk can very well be used for this folding (even if it will have less hold throughout the day).
In terms of style, this pocket folding offers interesting advantages: the elegance of the point fold, and the naturalness of the puff fold. An excellent alternative in short.
Style Tips : I've often heard that this fold is reserved for weddings. I might as well tell you right away, never focus on carrying and folding a clutch according to a particular event: wear it as you see fit. It's simply that this type of folding is by nature more elegant (in the same way as 3 and 4 point folding) but you have to know how to transgress conventions to have a little fun :) .
To learn how to make this fold, check out the Pochette Square explanatory video .
Verdict on Pochette Square
Very positive. I received the pouches in careful packaging and this care was found in the pouches. They are made in Italy with a mastered hand stitch (they don't drink pastis I think) and the materials are good.
Concerning the finishing of the edges of the pouch: they are rolled and sewn with a hand stitch (called hand stitch).
In summary, it's good value for money at around €25 per pouch (for their brand). And between us, no need to spend a fortune on this accessory. Hugo from Parisian Gentleman actually bought his best clutches for a handful of euros.
What you need to remember to wear the clutch correctly
This series of tips and tricks summarizes everything we have just seen together:
- Feel confident : don't hesitate to play with color contrasts to give a little pep to a blazer that's too formal (or boring, depending on you). The white linen clutch is great to start with.
- Let yourself go : the clutch (and more broadly the accessory) is an excellent way to bring bright colors and strong patterns that you might not necessarily dare to wear on clothing.
- Bring subtlety to your outfits : playing with materials and their textures is the ideal and most easily applicable solution.
- Wear the clutch according to your mood : learn a few tricks and apply them according to your desires, no more, no less.
- Have fun : once you have mastered the main folds, adopt new ones (or invent some!) as you see fit. There are an infinite number (or almost) of folding pockets.
- Wear it with a nice tie : never combine a tie and a pocket square, it's too elaborate, not diverse and natural enough.
The proof is: wearing a clutch can become spectacular!
Last important practical tip: the width of the folded pocket must be slightly larger than the chest pocket so that the pocket does not descend into the bottom of the pocket. This is especially the case for silk pocket squares. Force lightly when you insert your pouch and that's it.
I forgot... For maintenance , simply follow the machine washing conditions depending on the materials . The cover will thank you.
