Hamilton, MAT, Longines: our selection of military watches

Military fashions had as great an impact on the evolution of clothing as they did on the evolution of watches. Did you know that the First World War also changed the history of watchmaking? . This is what I will tell you here, with a selection of three military watches.

Watchmaking history: a march forward to the sound of the cannon

On the beaches of Dunkirk, Jean-Paul Belmondo is perhaps wondering what time it is during a weekend in Zuydcoote.

The military understood very early on the importance of having time on the battlefield. The modern history of military watches begins with pocket watches which fulfilled this function for several centuries.

Pocket watches thus equipped army officers on campaign, the only ones able to purchase these expensive accessories, often in gold or silver, on land or at sea, with their own money. To give just one famous example, the Emperor Napoleon had Breguet and Leroy watches. .

According to the writer and specialist in the history of watches Joël Duval, the first real official order for military wristwatches to equip an army in the field dates back to the Boer War in South Africa and it was Omega that responded to this order made by the British army.

At the end of this war, the soldiers returned with these watches, the beginnings of the future expansion of the wristwatch. With time and the emergence of a middle class linked to the industrial revolution, watches gradually became democratized, even to soldiers. If the military wristwatch as an issue appeared at the end of the 19th century, the predominance of pocket watches at both the military and civilian levels continued until 1914.

As the advertising poster of the time shows, Lip contributed to the victory by supplying pocket watches of impeccable quality and in particular to the true queen of battles: artillery. A so-called learned weapon, the use of artillery was of crucial importance, prior to any offensive: rolling and cadenced fire, planned and timed to get ahead of an assault by a few hundred to a few dozen meters, it was better to be precise... the measurement of time was then essential to both protect one's infantry and avoid friendly fire. Having become the first war aviation in 1918, French pilots were also equipped with it.

In the apocalyptic world of the trenches, a massive change has taken place. This war will be a violent shock on the human level and the impacts on behavior and equipment will be immense. And, in this hell, our valiant soldiers have also been confronted with the limits of the pocket watch.

An accessory held in the palm of the hand, linked to a chain itself linked to a vest or jacket and then stored in a pocket, the pocket watch is perfectly readable but also impractical in modern combat. The latter are also not known for their ability to withstand shocks.

The nature of combat has changed radically with the increase in firepower and this requires that both hands of soldiers be permanently free on the battlefield. However, our valiant ancestors did not get rid of their pocket watches, they resorted to the D system by removing the chain and welding handles to their pocket watches or collar watches. in order to be able to put a bracelet on. This gave rise to the “trench watches”.
These wartime transformations proved more practical than pocket watches, but they had drawbacks: they were no more shock-resistant, waterproof or sweat-proof.

Kirk Douglas, playing a French colonel in Paths of Glory, wears a wristwatch (Photo by LMPC via Getty Images).

The wristwatch was not born on the battlefield, this type of watch had already been created before, notably by the French house Breguet. Originally, these wristwatches were reserved for a feminine and aristocratic audience.

As the war ended, men returning home began to take up the habit of checking the time on their wrists. The production of pocket watches continued, but during the interwar period, these watches were gradually replaced by the wristwatch.

The Second World War saw the definitive triumph of the wristwatch over the pocket watch. The latter did not completely disappear, the navy retaining special pocket watches such as the famous marine chronometers.

Ulysse Nardin of the French army, recognizable with the mention MG (Ministry of War) which probably dates from 1940. Photograph provided by Joël Duval.

Wristwatches of the time will have very small diameters compared to our current standards. If pocket watches were 46-50 mm in diameter, wristwatches were generally only 30-33 mm.

The mobilization and triumph of the wristwatch

The need to equip soldiers not only with weapons and clothing but also with watches led to reserving all watch production for the benefit of the armies. Thus, the American Hamilton became at that time the world's leading watch manufacturer due to the gigantic military orders.

Hamilton was not the only American brand to supply the GIs, the famous brands Waltham, Elgin and Bulova also dedicated all their production to the war effort.

Swiss brands supplied the various belligerents, whatever the camp. .

Above, three of the American army's standard watches: two Hamiltons flank an Elgin. It should be noted that the black dial did not have a monopoly on military watches. The first two watches are radioactive due to the radium on the numerals and hands: luminescence is guaranteed but the tolerance thresholds are exceeded. After the war, radium will gradually be replaced by tritium, which is much less dangerous.

World War II watches are different from those of previous eras because this time they meet the needs of waterproofing, they are dustproof and they are shockproof.
At the end of the war, the millions of demobilized soldiers returned home and brought back with them not only the chinos but also the wristwatches they had received as supplies, as well as watches captured from the enemy.

After the war, many brands made military watches a specialty alongside civilian watches, which were once again marketed: the French Breguet, Yema and Auricoste equipped the French air force, while the American Hamilton returned to civilian watches but also continued to equip American soldiers.

Sublime Breguet type XX chronograph which equipped a pilot of the French Navy in 1960. Time has left only a small scratch on the plexiglass and some slight lack of tritium on the hands.

Over time, the design evolved for certain models and the 70s saw the arrival of a shape typical of this era: the so-called tonneau case.

The British Army's W10 watch from the 1970s with a case characteristic of the period. Photo courtesy of Joël Duval.

The Slow Decline of the Mechanical Military Watch

The quartz crisis of the 70s did not immediately change the military's habit of mechanical watches, and this was due to several reasons:

• Military specifications evolve slowly.
• The importance given by the military to reliability and robustness is essential: the mechanical watch no longer has to prove itself in this area, it is favored over the quartz models which are spreading in the civilian world.

It is worth remembering that the quartz watch was not considered "better" than the mechanical watch by the military. When quartz models invaded the civilian world, the army was not very seduced by the latter. And for good reason: quartz movements were more fragile than solid mechanical movements. Quartz movements do not appreciate shocks and it was not until Casio's G-Shock type movements that some could really withstand the lives of soldiers. Between a hundred euros for a G-Shock and several hundred or thousands of euros for a current mechanical watch, soldiers make choices by default.

The real blow to mechanical watches in the military world is in fact given by... the fall in army budgets. The quality of soldiers' equipment is also severely affected and this does not only concern watches. Thus our soldiers often have to buy at their own expense equipment that is not officially issued but which turns out to be much more effective and comfortable than certain poor quality items, particularly in bags or rangers, to name just one example.

Is this the death of the military mechanical watch? No. Brands continue to produce limited edition watches reserved in particular for special units. The Tudor brand thus offered the COS a Black Bay with a blue dial and a blue white red inscription or the French brand MAT Watches which is very active in the niche of special units. These watches are not officially issued but they are offered to these units which generally rush to buy them. Many soldiers have kept this attachment to the mechanical watch because it remains one of the lasting symbols of their years in the army.

And besides, very often, professional soldiers offered their departing combat comrades a somewhat special watch, a so-called "end of service" watch. These watches were often engraved on the case back with the name of the wearer and his unit, they were not necessarily military models but could also be gold-plated watches.

The specificities of the military watch

Hell is just beginning for these paratroopers who have just arrived in Normandy. The series Band of Brothers presents at the beginning of each episode the exceptional testimonies of the real characters of the 101st (Ken Goff/The LIFE Images Collection via Getty Images/Getty Images)

It goes without saying that military watches must be robust and precise, able to withstand certain shocks while maintaining good timekeeping. Water resistance is also a requirement, particularly for army or navy watches. In this regard, commandos often use diving watches, and special units such as combat swimmers or paratroopers have at one time used Tudor Submariners.
The case of the Air Force is quite different. The chronograph predominated for a long time in this weapon, and in particular those of Breguet. However, we will see aviators wearing other more classic models in place of the chronograph. To cite just one example, the aviators of the French Air Force were equipped in the past with a diving watch like the Yema Superman.

The problem with the chronograph is generally its poor water resistance due to the non-screwed crown and especially its pushers through which water can infiltrate. .

One, two… and three military watches

In accordance with the previous selections , each watch was tested and worn for a minimum of 10 days. . All watches are loaner models. Testing was conducted on commercially available models, not prototypes.

If by chance a prototype is detected among the loan models, it is returned and exchanged with the model sold to the general public. .

The watches are all photographed for a realistic rendering on the wrist.
Finally, the selected models were presented by me to some members of the editorial staff and, moreover, at the end of the article, I will give you their personal preferences.
And now, to arms!

1.Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical

It is difficult not to mention Hamilton, born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in the United States. , in a selection of military watches. Historically, the brand has indeed had all its legitimacy in this field. In addition, the brand has been voluntarily positioned on this segment in the Swatch Group offer.

The Khaki collection is not limited to the famous three-hand model with a round case. In 2019, a new reinterpretation appeared and it is an excellent surprise. The shape of the case – called tonneau – is characteristic of a model of military watches that equipped the British army: the W10. Hamilton and CWC equipped the military across the Channel at that time with this type of watch.

While the original W10 model was produced between 1973 and 1976, the current model remains very faithful to it. The notable visual difference from today's model is the presence of the Broad Arrow on the original watch. The reissue does not have it simply because it is a military indication of the British Army and not authorized to be reproduced on a commercial model.

The Broad Arrow is the circumflex accent symbol on the dial, indicating that the watch is intended for the British Army.

Watch worn with its leather nato and a Loom flannel shirt

The watch is equipped with a movement derived from the ETA 2802, which is also related to the original watch which was equipped with an ETA movement already at that time. . The current caliber is a hand-wound caliber, which is also in the same spirit as the 70s model.

The glass is, for once, mineral and not sapphire, the original being equipped with plexiglass. A choice that may seem a little surprising or even a little regrettable. Visual comfort is in no way affected, however, there are other watches in the sector that are equipped with glass other than sapphire.

Hamilton's straps are not without their flaws, I often recommend changing them for other straps. The watch can be chosen in two configurations: with a textile nato or a leather nato. Between the two, I would recommend the leather nato, the color of which is very tasteful by the way.

On the other hand, the leather of this bracelet risks marking very quickly in my opinion and its thinness suggests wear that may prove premature. This point is nevertheless not decisive . The other reservation could be the choice of an old tritium-like tint on the dial indexes or hands.

In the case of this watch, the effect is not unpleasant. However, I think that a current reinterpretation of a vintage watch does not need to have these artificial "aging" marks.

The watch is thin, light and comfortable on the wrist, its diameter very measured is respectful of the past and will not pose any problems to the vast majority of wrists.

This watch is an excellent reinterpretation whose design I applaud: it is very appreciable to revisit a case shape typical of the 70s to change from the eternal round cases.

Look-wise, I would recommend wearing this watch with a workwear-type style and grabbing Jordan some chunky merino donegal turtlenecks for the winter or just a blue Harrington-type jacket. Chinos are optional.

2. MAT California

I prefer to warn you, this watch is the favorite of the selection and it is sincerely deserved in view of the quality of the offer. MAT (Mer-Air-Terre) Watches is a relatively young brand in the watchmaking world.

Born in 2005, it is French and its founder is a former firefighter from Paris, his own brother being himself a member of a special unit. Very steeped in the military world and its codes, the brand is committed to the smallest details in seeking quality and with regard to the final product and its accessories, I think that the bet is largely held. Mer-Air-Terre is indeed known to certain units of the French Army and among the most prestigious.

Thus, the brand offered limited series intended directly for special units such as the Raid, the GIGN, the GSPR , the COS, the Marine Commandos, the Paris Fire Brigade or the Foreign Legion and benefits from an image of solidity and robustness. In terms of legitimacy, it is difficult to do better at present

Not benefiting from all the firepower of the large watchmaking groups, this independent brand remains little known to the general public even though it also offers other products, such as diving watches.

Worn with a very beautiful olive green Officine Générale military jacket, we immediately notice the small size of the watch, which nevertheless remains very readable.

The watch chosen for the selection is the California model. With a contained diameter and thickness, the watch ultimately seems smaller to wear, I even tend to see a 38mm rather than a 39mm, this impression is reinforced by the reduced size of the horns. Screwed crown, domed sapphire crystal, robust steel case, the watch is water-resistant to 100m and therefore meets the vast majority of situations encountered by the military or simply by those who need a watch for traveling.

The movement is a sure value in the sector: the ETA 2824 known for its reliability and the ease of its maintenance by any self-respecting watchmaker. Water-resistance and chronometry are tested several times before any delivery to the end customer.

The brushed steel case meets the military's need to avoid polished watches, which are too shiny to remain discreet. Note that the horns are pierced, which is a nice and functional plus for changing the strap. The watch comes with three straps and a small tool to make the changes.

Note the pierced horns: if you want to change the excellent leather strap provided, it is very easy to do so and opt for the tactical or rubber strap. And go on a commando operation.

What differentiates this watch from the other models in the selection is above all this graphite dial, thinner than that of the Hamilton, with its golden rails and the circled indexes and numbers. The watch is very readable and this is also due to an originality with the mixture of Roman numerals at 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock and Arabic numerals at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock.

Originality because the watch almost completely follows the requirements of military equipment. The presence of gold edging brings a touch of warmth, allowing this watch to be adapted to many looks by changing the strap. Therein lies the apparent paradox: it is indeed a military watch but can also be adapted to other styles.

Full back, we are not in the ostentatious but in the efficiency which in no way prevents an excellent comfort. To try imperatively with the leather strap provided.

Three straps are supplied with the watch: vegetable-tanned brown leather, genuine rubber and tactical textile. All three are of high quality and have excellent robustness. Thus, the watch meets almost all situations , from casual chic if you opt for a more classic leather strap, to a relaxed look with the brown leather provided, to the nautical domain with the rubber strap or tactical with the textile strap.

The leather strap that comes with the watch is my favorite and it goes very well with a military or workwear look. It is thick and yet remains very flexible. It is really comfortable to wear.

A guarantor of military authenticity, equally suited to officers and soldiers as to a wider audience, from an independent French brand that aims for quality down to the smallest detail, this watch seems to me to be a success in every way for its segment.

3. Longines Avigation Big Eye

Historically, Longines has equipped many armies with both watches and calibers: in the West with models displaying the British Broad Arrow for example, or in the East, notably with the Japanese Imperial Army.

Worn here with the BonneGueule merino vest, I am ready to take the controls of a Dewoitine 520. Or a P51 Mustang at a pinch. The watch in the selection is a reinterpretation marketed in 2017 of an old model of the brand The current model takes up some of the codes of the military watches of the air force and particularly the type XX with some differences however.

The type XX is a watch model manufactured by Breguet from the 1950s and which equipped many aviators of the Air Force. Its design has become a reference in the field to the point that we also refer to the type XX for watches that are not from Breguet.

This is also the first chronograph featured in the new articles dedicated to watches for BonneGueule. The chronograph is the most widespread complication in the field of watches. A chronograph allows, as its name suggests, to measure the time that elapses from a given moment T.

This complication is actually relatively useless these days. But for the military and even more so for aviators, this complication was fundamental: they needed a watch to both tell the time but also to measure more or less long times and in particular at the beginning the warm-up times of the aircraft engines before starting their flight. In other words, the chronograph has two functions and this requires the management of two time measurement systems.

Classically, there are two pushers — one to start and stop the chronograph, another to reset it — and a good-sized crown to set the time or wind the watch. What we notice right away is the great visibility of the dial. Some chronographs are much too busy , which is not the case with this Longines whose dial is certainly "filled" with the presence of three counters, one of which is larger than the others, hence the name Big Eye.

The first counter located at 9 o'clock is the small seconds. The second located at 6 o'clock is called a totalizer. at 12 o'clock and the third counter is graduated over 30 minutes and each notch represents 3 minutes.

Without requiring a Yeti wrist, the watch is 41mm and for a chronograph, that's not necessarily a problem. . Even in the 1960s, chronographs were generally larger in diameter than three-hand watches.

The presence of meters and also the requirement for readability require this need for a larger diameter, the Big Eye being in the current standard. Similarly, the thickness of the watch is generally greater with a self-winding chronograph.

The famous 7750 Valjoux cannot claim to win the first prize for thinness, nor can the ETA A08.L01 that equips the watch. The latter is a relatively recent caliber dating from the 2000s and developed by ETA for Longines.

The most common caliber for chronographs is the 7750 Valjoux, which is an automatic caliber that is certainly bulky in terms of thickness but renowned for its reliability.

The A08.L01 is a so-called column wheel chronograph movement, it is not an evolution of the 7750 but rather a new caliber. The frequency is the same as for 7750 (28,800) but its power reserve increases from 42 hours to 54 hours.

Because of its characteristics, I would advise to wear it resolutely in a style ranging from business casual to workwear look. Also, do not hesitate to go for stronger pieces, especially leather jackets, without necessarily going as far as a bomber unless you have a B17 or a B24 Liberator in your parking lot 😉

4. What about other brands?

Many other brands could be mentioned regarding military or military-inspired watches.

• In luxury, Breguet remains a reference from its past even if the prices are very high today.
• In the high-end, IWC offers several models that recall its past, such as the so-called Spitfire model. I would have a reservation about these watches because while their design is really successful, the price was incomparable with the movement that equips them (SW-200 or SW-400 depending on the model), which was in my opinion far too expensive. IWC now seems to be returning to more interesting movements for these models, with the new Spitfire using a manufacture caliber. To be followed closely.
• In the mid-range, without mentioning all the German brands, the Stowa brand is a gateway for those who prefer German models, particularly aviator-type ones.
• On a much tighter budget, the Seiko 5 Military is usually quoted for student prices.

My thanks to the writer and specialist in the history of watches Joël Duval with whom I spoke and who kindly provided some of his photographs with watches from his private collection.

Editorial opinion

As usual, in a spirit of sharing, the watches in the selection were presented to the available members of the BonneGueule team, but this time I wanted to know their preferences after having presented them and, of course, a little fitting.

Verdict!

Our community manager David leans towards the Hamilton and its seventies design.
Our editor would choose the Longines Big Eye because he has a soft spot for chronographs.
Benoît and I are leaning towards MAT Watches.

This concludes this first selection dedicated to mechanical military watches. Whether you wear the uniform or simply want to wear a solid watch for adventuring, mechanical military watches won't risk letting you down during your missions.