Hamilton, MAT, Longines: our selection of military watches

Military fashions have had as significant an impact on the evolution of clothing as they have on the evolution of watches. Did you know that the First World War also changed the history of watchmaking? . This is what I am going to tell you here, with a selection of three military watches.

Watchmaking history: a march forward to the sound of cannon

On the beaches of Dunkirk, Jean-Paul Belmondo is perhaps wondering what time it is during a weekend in Zuydcoote.

The military understood very early the importance of having time on the battlefield. The modern history of military watches begins with pocket watches which served this function for several centuries.

Pocket watches thus equipped the officers of armies in the field, the only ones able to acquire with their personal funds these expensive accessories, often in gold or silver, on land or at sea. To give just one famous example, the Emperor Napoleon will have Breguet and Leroy watches .

According to the writer and specialist in the history of watches Joël Duval, the first real official order for military wristwatches to en masse equip an army in the field dates from the Boer War in South Africa and it was Omega which had responded to this order made by the British army.

At the end of this war, the soldiers returned with these watches, the beginnings of the future expansion of the wristwatch. With time and the emergence of a middle class linked to the industrial revolution, watches gradually became more popular among soldiers. If the military wristwatch appeared at the end of the 19th century, the predominance of pocket watches both at the military and civilian levels continued until 1914.

As the advertising poster of the time shows, Lip made its contribution to victory by supplying pocket watches of impeccable quality and in particular to the true queen of battles: artillery. A so-called learned weapon, the use of artillery was of crucial importance, prior to any offensive: rolling and rhythmic fire, planned and timed to anticipate an assault by a few hundred to a few dozen meters, it was better to be precise... the Measuring time is then essential to both protect your infantry and avoid friendly fire. Becoming the first war aviation in 1918, French pilots were also equipped with it.

In the apocalyptic world of the trenches, a massive change has taken place. This war will be a violent shock on a human level, with immense impacts on behavior and equipment. And, in this hell, our brave furry men were also confronted with the limits of the pocket watch.

An accessory held in the palm of the hand, linked to a chain itself linked to a vest or jacket then stored in a pocket, the pocket watch is perfectly readable but also impractical in modern combat. The latter are also not known for their ability to withstand shocks.

The nature of combat has changed dramatically with the increase in firepower and this requires constantly freeing both hands of soldiers on the battlefield. However, our valiant ancestors did not get rid of their pocket watches, they resorted to system D by removing the chain and soldering handles to their pocket watches or collar watches in order to be able to put on a bracelet. This gave rise to “trench watches”.
These transformations made in wartime proved more practical than pocket watches but they had disadvantages: they were not more shock resistant nor waterproof or sweatproof.

Kirk Douglas, playing a French colonel in Paths of Glory, shows bracelet on his wrist (Photo by LMPC via Getty Images).

The wristwatch was not born on the battlefield, this type of watch had already been created before, notably by the French house Breguet. Originally, these wristwatches were reserved for a feminine and aristocratic audience.

As the war ended, men returning home began the habit of checking the time on their wrists. The production of pocket watches continued but during the interwar period, these watches were gradually replaced by the wristwatch.

The Second World War saw the definitive triumph of the wristwatch over the pocket watch. The latter has not completely disappeared, the navy retaining special pocket watches like the famous marine chronometers.

Ulysse Nardin of the French army, recognizable with the mention MG (Ministry of War) which probably dates from 1940. Photograph provided by Joël Duval.

The wristwatches of the time will have very small diameters compared to our current standards. If pocket watches were 46-50mm in diameter, wristwatches were generally only 30-33mm.

The mobilization and triumph of the wristwatch

The need to equip soldiers not only with weapons and clothing but also with watches led to all watch production being reserved for the benefit of the armies. Thus, the American Hamilton became at that time the world's leading watch manufacturer due to gigantic military orders.

Hamilton was not the only American brand to supply GI's, the famous brands Waltham, Elgin and Bulova also devoted all their production to the war effort.

Swiss brands have supplied the various belligerents, whatever the camp. .

Above are three of the US Army's regulation watches: two Hamiltons flanking one Elgin. It will be noted that the black dial did not have a monopoly on military watches. The first two watches are radioactive due to the radium on the numbers and hands: luminescence is guaranteed but the tolerance thresholds are crossed. After the war, radium was gradually replaced by tritium, which was much less dangerous.

World War II watches are different from those of earlier eras because this time they meet the needs of waterproofing, they are dust resistant and they are shockproof.
At the end of the war, the millions of demobilized soldiers returned home and took with them not only the chinos but also the wristwatches received as endowments, as well as watches taken from the enemy.

After the war, many brands made military watches a specialty alongside civilian watches which were once again marketed: the French Breguet, Yema and Auricoste equipped the French air force while the American Hamilton returned. to the civilian watch but will also continue to equip American soldiers.

Sublime Breguet type XX chronograph which equipped a French Navy pilot in 1960. Time has left only a small scratch on the plexi and some slight lack of tritium on the hands.

Over time, the design evolved for certain models and the 1970s saw the arrival of a shape typical of that era: the so-called tonneau case.

The W10 British Army watch from the 1970s with a case characteristic of that era. Photo provided by Joël Duval.

The slow decline of the mechanical military watch

The quartz crisis of the 1970s will not immediately change the military's habit of mechanical watches and this is linked to several reasons:

• Military specifications evolve slowly.
• The importance given by the military to reliability and robustness is essential: the mechanical watch no longer having to prove itself in this area, it is favored over the quartz models which are widespread in the civilian world.

It is worth remembering that the quartz watch was not considered “better” than the mechanical watch by the military. When quartz models invaded the civilian world, the army was little attracted by them. And for good reason: quartz movements were more fragile than solid mechanical movements. The quartz movement hardly appreciates shocks and we will have to wait for Casio's G-Shock type movements to allow some to really be able to withstand the lives of soldiers. Between a hundred euros for a G-Shock and several hundred or thousand euros for a current mechanical watch, soldiers make choices by default.

The real blow to mechanical watches in the military world is in fact caused by... the fall in army budgets. The quality of the soldiers' equipment is also severely affected and this does not only concern watchmaking. Thus our soldiers often have to purchase at their own expense equipment which is not officially provided but which proves to be more efficient and comfortable than certain poor quality items, particularly bags or rangers, to cite just one example. .

Is this the death of the mechanical military watch? No. Brands continue to produce limited edition watches reserved in particular for special units. The Tudor brand thus proposed to the COS a Black Bay with a blue dial and a blue, white and red inscription or the French brand MAT Watches which is very active in the special units niche. These watches are not officially supplied but they are offered to these units who generally rush to buy them. Many soldiers have retained this attachment to the mechanical watch because it remains one of the lasting symbols of their years in the army.

And moreover, very often, professional soldiers offered their departing comrades a rather special watch, a so-called “end of service” watch. These watches were often engraved on the caseback with the name of the wearer and his unit; they were not necessarily military models but could also be gold-plated watches.

The specificities of the military watch

Hell has only just begun for these paratroopers who have recently arrived in Normandy. The Band of Brothers series presents exceptional testimonies from the real characters of the 101st at the start of each episode (Ken Goff/The LIFE Images Collection via Getty Images/Getty Images)

It goes without saying that military watches must be robust and precise, capable of withstanding certain shocks while keeping good time. Water resistance is also a requirement, particularly for army or navy watches. In this regard, commandos often use diving watches, special units such as combat swimmers or paratroopers at one time used Tudor Submariners.
The case of the Air Force is quite different. The chronograph predominated for a long time in this weapon, and in particular those of Breguet. However, we will see aviators wearing other, more classic models instead of the chronograph. To cite just one example, French Air Force aviators were in the past equipped with a diving watch like the Yema Superman.

The problem with the chronograph is generally its poor water resistance due to the non-screwed crown and especially its pushers through which water can infiltrate. .

One, two… and three military watches

In compliance with previous selections , each watch has been tested and worn for a minimum of 10 days . All watches are loaner models. The tests were carried out on marketed models and not prototypes.

If by chance a prototype is detected in the loan models, it is returned and exchanged with the model sold to the general public .

The watches are all photographed for a realistic rendering on the wrist.
Finally, the selected models were presented by me to certain members of the editorial staff and, moreover, at the end of the article, I will give you their personal preferences.
And now, to arms!

1.Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical

It is difficult not to mention Hamilton, born in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in the United States. , in a selection of military watches. Historically, the brand has indeed all its legitimacy in this area. In addition, the brand was deliberately positioned in this segment in the Swatch Group's offering.

The Khaki collection is not limited to the famous three-hand model with a round case. In 2019, a new reinterpretation appeared and it is an excellent surprise. The shape of the case – called tonneau – is characteristic of a model of military watches which equipped the British army: the W10. Hamilton and CWC equipped the military across the Channel at this time with this type of watch.

If the original W10 model was produced between 1973 and 1976, the current model remains very faithful to it. The notable visual difference from today's model is the presence of the Broad Arrow on the original watch. The reissue does not have it simply because it is a military indication of the British army and not authorized to be reproduced on a commercial model.

The Broad Arrow is this symbol in the shape of a circumflex accent present on the dial, it indicates that the watch is intended for the British army.

Watch worn with its leather nato and a Loom flannel shirt

The watch is equipped with a movement derived from the ETA 2802, which is also related to the original watch which was equipped with an ETA movement already at that time . The current caliber is a hand-wound caliber, which is also in the same spirit as the model from the 70s.

The glass is, for once, mineral and not a sapphire, the original being equipped with plexiglass. A choice which may seem a little surprising at the moment or even a little to be regretted. Visual comfort is in no way altered, however, there are other watches in the sector which have glass other than sapphire.

Hamilton bracelets are not free from defects, I often recommend changing them for other bracelets. The watch can be chosen in two configurations: with a textile nato or a leather nato. Between the two, I would recommend nato leather, the color of which is very tasteful.

On the other hand, in my opinion, the leather of this bracelet risks becoming marked very quickly and its thinness suggests wear which may prove premature. This point is however not decisive . The other reservation may be the choice of an old tritium-style color on the dial indexes or hands.

In the case of this watch, the effect is not unpleasant. However, I believe that a current reinterpretation of a vintage watch does not need to have these artificial "aging" marks.

The watch is thin, light and comfortable on the wrist, its diameter very measured is respectful of the past and will pose no problem for the vast majority of wrists.

This watch is an excellent reinterpretation whose design I salute: it is very appreciable to revisit a case shape typical of the 70s to change the eternal round cases.

In terms of looks, I would recommend wearing this watch with a workwear type style and grabbing a few large knit turtleneck sweaters in Donegal merino from Jordan for the winter or simply a blue Harrington type jacket. Chinos are optional.

2. MAT California

I prefer to warn you, this watch is the favorite of the selection and it is sincerely deserved given the quality of the offer. MAT (Mer-Air-Terre) Watches is a relatively young brand in the watchmaking world.

Born in 2005, it is French and its founder is a former Paris firefighter, his own brother being himself a member of a special unit. Very steeped in the military world and its codes, the brand strives to strive for quality down to the smallest detail and with regard to the final product and its accessories, I think that the bet has largely been met. Mer-Air-Terre is in fact known to certain units of the French Army and among the most prestigious.

Thus, the brand offered limited series intended directly for special units such as the Raid, the GIGN, the GSPR , the COS, the Marine Commandos, the Paris Fire Brigade or the Foreign Legion and benefits from an image of solidity and robustness. Question of legitimacy, difficult to do better currently

Not benefiting from all the firepower of the large watch groups, this independent brand remains little known to the general public even though it also offers other products, such as diving watches.

Worn with a military jacket from Officine Générale in a very beautiful olive green, we immediately notice the contained size of the watch which nevertheless remains very readable.

The watch chosen for the selection is the California model. With a contained diameter and thickness, the watch ultimately seems smaller to wear, I even tend to see a 38mm rather than a 39mm, this impression is reinforced by the reduced size of the lugs. Screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal, robust steel case, the watch is water-resistant to 100m and therefore responds to the vast majority of situations encountered by the military or quite simply by those who need a watch for traveling.

The movement is a sure value in the sector: the 2824 from ETA known for its reliability and ease of maintenance by any self-respecting watchmaker. Watertightness and timing are tested several times before delivery to the end customer.

The brushed steel case responds to the military's need to avoid polished watches, which are too shiny to remain discreet. Note that the horns are pierced, which is a pleasant and functional addition for changing bracelets. The watch comes with three straps and a small tool for making changes.

Note the pierced lugs: if you want to change the excellent leather strap provided, it is very easy to do so and opt for the tactical or rubber strap. And go on a commando operation.

What differentiates this watch from the other models in the selection is above all this graphite dial, thinner than that of the Hamilton, with its gold rails and circled indexes and numerals. The watch is very readable and this is also due to its originality with the mixture of Roman numerals at 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock and Arabic numerals at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock.

Originality because the watch meets the requirements of military equipment in almost every way. The presence of gold rimming adds a touch of warmth, allowing this watch to be adapted to many looks by changing the strap. Therein lies the apparent paradox: it is indeed a military watch but can also be adapted to other styles.

With a full bottom, it is not ostentatious but efficient, which in no way prevents excellent comfort. Definitely worth trying with the leather strap provided.

Three straps are supplied with the watch: brown vegetable-tanned leather, real rubber and tactical textile. All three are of quality and have excellent robustness. So the watch responds to almost all situations , from casual chic if you opt for a more classic leather strap, to a casual look with the brown leather provided, to the nautical domain with the rubber strap or tactical with the textile strap.

The leather strap supplied with the watch is my favorite and it goes very well with a military look or a workwear look. It is thick and yet remains very flexible. It turns out to be really pleasant to wear.

Guarantee of military authenticity, as well suited to officers and soldiers as to a wider public, from an independent French brand which aims for quality down to the smallest detail, this watch seems to me a success in every way for its segment.

3. Longines Avigation Big Eye

Historically, Longines has equipped numerous armies with both watches and calibers: in the West with models displaying the British Broad Arrow for example or in the East with notably the Japanese Imperial Army.

Worn here with the BonneGueule merino vest, I am ready to take command of a Dewoitine 520. Or a P51 Mustang in a pinch. The watch in the selection is a reinterpretation marketed in 2017 of an old model from the brand . The current model takes up some of the codes of the military watches of the Air Force and particularly the type XX with some differences however.

The type XX is a watch model manufactured by Breguet from the 1950s and which has equipped many Air Force aviators. Its design has become a reference in the field to such an extent that type XX is also referred to for watches that are not from Breguet.

This is also the first chronograph featured in the new watch articles for BonneGueule. The chronograph is the most widespread complication in the field of watches. A chronograph allows, as its name suggests, to measure the time that passes from a given moment.

This complication is in truth relatively of little use nowadays. but for the military and even more so the aviators, this complication was fundamental: they needed a watch to both have the time but also to measure more or less long times and in particular at the beginning the heating times of the airplane engines before starting its flight. In other words, the chronograph has two functions and this requires the management of two time measurement systems.

Classically, there are two pushers – one to start the chrono and stop it, another for resetting – and a good-sized crown to set the time or wind the watch. What we immediately notice is the high visibility of the dial. Some chronographs are way too busy , which is not the case with this Longines whose dial is certainly “filled” with the presence of three counters, one of which is larger than the others, hence the name Big Eye.

The first counter located at 9 o'clock is the small seconds. The second located at 6 o'clock is called a totalizer over 12 hours and the third counter is graduated over 30 minutes and each notch represents 3 minutes.

Without requiring a Yeti wrist, the watch is 41 mm and for a chronograph, this is not necessarily a problem . Even in the 1960s, chronographs were generally larger in diameter than three-hand watches.

The presence of counters and also the requirement for readability require this need for a larger diameter, the Big Eye being the current standard. Likewise, the thickness of the watch is generally greater with a self-winding chronograph.

The famous 7750 Valjoux cannot claim to win the first prize for thinness, nor the ETA A08.L01 which equips the watch. The latter is a relatively recent caliber dating from the 2000s and developed by ETA for Longines.

The most common caliber for chronographs is the 7750 Valjoux, which is an automatic caliber that is certainly bulky in terms of thickness but renowned for its reliability.

The A08.L01 is a so-called column wheel chronograph movement, it is not an evolution of the 7750 but rather a new caliber. The frequency is the same as for 7750 (28,800) but its power reserve increases from 42 hours to 54 hours.

Due to its characteristics, I would advise wearing it resolutely in a style ranging from business casual to workwear look. Don't hesitate to go for stronger pieces, notably leather jackets, without necessarily going as far as bomber jackets unless you have a B17 or a B24 Liberator in your parking lot 😉

4. What about other brands?

Many other brands could be cited regarding military or military-inspired watches.

• In luxury, Breguet remains a reference from its past even if prices are very high today.
• At the high end, IWC offers several models as a reminder of its past, such as the so-called Spitfire model. I would have a downside about these watches because although their design is really successful, the price was incomparable compared to the movement fitted to them (SW-200 or SW-400 depending on the model) which in my opinion was far too expensive. IWC today seems to be returning to more interesting movements for these models, the new Spitfire using an in-house caliber. To be followed carefully.
• In the mid-range, without mentioning all the German brands, the Stowa brand is a gateway for those who prefer Germanic models of the aviator type in particular.
• On a much smaller budget, the Seiko 5 Military is generally quoted for student prices.

My thanks to the writer and watch history specialist Joël Duval with whom I spoke and who kindly provided some of his photographs with watches from his private collection.

Editorial opinion

As usual, in a spirit of sharing, the watches in the selection were presented to the available members of the BonneGueule team, but this time I wanted to know their preferences after having presented them and, of course, a little fitting.

Verdict!

Our community manager David leans towards the Hamilton and its seventies design.
Our editor-in-chief would choose the Longines Big Eye because he has a weakness for chronographs.
Benoît and I are leaning towards MAT Watches.

This is how this first selection dedicated to mechanical military watches ends. If you wear the uniform or if you simply want to wear a solid watch for traveling, mechanical military watches will not fail you during your missions.