Our advice on caring for jeans, summarized in a 2-minute video. If you want more details, follow the guide!
Care tips for raw denim are legion on the Internet and specialized forums.
From the most purist method, which aims for perfect optimization of the patina and religiously prohibits any contact with water, to the health advice of American mothers
We have therefore tried to summarize here all the advice necessary for caring for your raw jeans, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of each of the methods found on the Web.
First of all, this article is dedicated to the maintenance of your raw jeans, if you want to wash bleach or white jeans follow these tips:
- Wash it inside out, in a delicate cycle : the least painful but the most aggressive, the canvas will be very slightly worn after the first washes. Don't forget to add a cap of vinegar, as well as detergent for dark textiles, to fix the colors
- Washing in your bathtub , always with your cap of vinegar and detergent for dark textiles. Turn your jeans inside out and let them soak for about twenty minutes, completely stretched out, at the bottom of your bathtub so that they are completely submerged. Rinse thoroughly and dry in the shade - still no tumble dryer for jeans
- Finally, hand washing (or dry cleaning) for very high-end jeans, with a wash or a highly worked material (waxed jeans, for example).
The eternal debate: patina of jeans versus hygiene
For those unfamiliar with the subject of raw denim, the very idea of there being a debate over whether or not to wash it may seem completely absurd.
In order to understand the reasons behind it, here is a little reminder to recontextualize it.
1. What is raw canvas?
Raw jeans are dyed. This study on the bacterial flora in raw jeans , carried out by a student at the University of Alberta in Canada, showed that the bacterial populations on raw jeans worn for 15 months in a row without washing were essentially the same as those of jeans worn for two weeks without washing.
So of course, each person has a different bacterial flora, and that doesn't entirely solve the problem of odors (we'll get to that later in the article), but it's rather reassuring.
The oldest Levi's jeans still preserved today! This creature is 150 years old! Even the most purist among you will undoubtedly want to wash your jeans before they look like this.
3. For every desire, its own maintenance method
No matter how much we say what we want about "fades" and bacteria, I know from experience that not everyone is looking for an extremely contrasting wash like those of the purists.
Some people really appreciate the “new” look of raw jeans with a very deep canvas, and want to keep them for as long as possible.
Still others, supporters of a certain in-between, find their raw denim at its peak when it only presents subtle azure whiskers which contrast the background of dark indigo , without them being very marked to as much.
If washes are an integral part of the journey of raw jeans, we can on the contrary be very sensitive to the new appearance of a beautiful canvas, deep and bright, and want to keep it as is!
I also know that some people really aren't ready to wear their jeans 10, 15, 20 times before they start to feel comfortable in them. That they would gladly sacrifice a little bit of authenticity to gain comfort from the first days.
And finally, there are the purists. The tough guys! Those who will go through all the challenges to achieve the most “satisfactory” result possible. Ultra-contrasting jeans, whose "fades" reflect the patina of time and the virile robustness of their wearer with a steely gaze, narrowed eyes, riveted on the horizon...
Okay, I'm teasing you a little here... But rest assured, lovers of adventurer looks and denim, you will also find what you're looking for in this guide!
And then, who knows, maybe you even want to have a bit of everything: a raw jean with a clean look for your casual chic outfits, and another with an extremely marked patina for a piece of character!
"Sir, how do you like your raw jeans? Rare, medium, or well done?"
There are a thousand and one ways to maintain this pillar of our wardrobe, which isn't a bad thing. There are endless ways to wear and appreciate this piece which, in its very essence, is made to evolve with its wearer and their lifestyle.
The key is to know what you want from your raw jeans . That’s the “ultimate secret”!
Tame your raw jeans: treatments at the start of life
I will present here, in detail, the techniques to use on your raw materials shortly after their very first ports. They will help you match the room to your needs and adapt it to your constraints, quite simply!
1. Make your raw jeans less raw: the 'salt and vinegar bath' technique
One of the big disadvantages of raw denim, and probably the one that makes newbies very hesitant: the fabrics bleed, so much so that they easily leave blue marks all over clothes, shoes and light-colored furniture for the first few weeks.
The most drastic solution would be to throw it all in the washing machine, but as a result, you would get... washed jeans, with a lighter color and a much "smoother" appearance.
I therefore propose a compromise: this process will be able to fix a good part of the indigo using salt and vinegar, and remove part of the remaining excess.
Salt and white vinegar are great allies if you want to make the dye of your jeans more stable!
- Fill your bathtub with cold or lukewarm water. Failing that, a basin can do the trick.
- Add two large handfuls of salt to it,
a good glass of vinegar , mix and wait a bit for everything to dissolve in the water. In the case of a basin, adapt the quantities accordingly. These are the ingredients that will help to better “fix” the indigo pigments to the cotton.
2. (bis) Optional step: if you are looking to not only rinse the jeans but give them their first wash, also add a capful of detergent for dark laundry. This will also remove a little more indigo, and also fix more of it. -
If it's a bathtub , gently lay your jeans flat at the bottom of it. To keep it in place without it rising to the surface, weigh it down with heavy objects. For example, well-filled plastic water bottles can do the trick. - Leave everything to act for 20 to 30 minutes.
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Take out the jeans and fill the tub again. Rinse it briefly with clean water. Don't use your shower head! The pressure of the jet could cause the indigo to move. - Drain the bathtub. This time, it's good! You can let it dry, hanging on a hanger. Choose a place that will not fear blue stains caused by
the drops of water that will flow . Do not wring the jeans to avoid creating unwanted marks by poorly distributing the indigo. Wait until completely dry.
This is the kind of result you can obtain in the long term using this technique: marked contrasts but not white either, and a color still close to the initial indigo in many areas.
And There you go !
With this technique, you will obtain jeans which are no longer entirely "raw" but which will have retained the majority of their initial color.
It will move less quickly over time than if you had not used this method and, consequently, the patina will be contrasting.
It will wash less on the various pieces of furniture and clothing to which it will be exposed, until it almost no longer bleeds at all (except in the case of insistent rubbing).
Note, for those who are afraid of marking their white sneakers or suede shoes, that the secret is not so much in the maintenance of the jeans as in cleaning the pair regularly so as not to let the indigo build up. !
2. A lighter result with simple rinsing
In the same spirit as the previous technique, this one simply consists of a single rinse in a cold water bath.
By not adding salt or vinegar, we have less influence on the behavior of the indigo and we leave it with its characteristic instability.
The canvas will lose a little excess dye, soften slightly (but become less stretchy), and that's it!
This is also an option offered by many retailers of very high-end "traditional" jeans: the same model is often sold in a "one-wash" version and in a "raw" version.
To give you an example, our Renji raw jeans are “one-wash”. Conversely, our Alberto raw jeans are in a “raw” version.
3. Avoid the inconvenience of the first ports: the “cozy” technique
You really want to wear these raw jeans, but you find them terribly uncomfortable. No matter how much we tell you that " it's normal, things will relax with the ports! ", you can't get used to it...
You are impatient and value the comfort of your clothes too much to subject yourself to the torture of the first weeks of wearing them.
Don't panic: when denim is saturated with water, it washes much more easily, but the fabric also becomes much more malleable.
This technique takes advantage of this and allows you to “make” your jeans to your body shape much more quickly !
No, this man is not crazy. He is just very demanding about the comfort of his clothes! Note, however, that keeping your Converse white while bathing is not essential to achieve the desired result...
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Run a bath of lukewarm water. Hot water will have an impact
stronger on the dye . - Put on your jeans.
- Get into the tub carefully without rubbing or wriggling too much. Yes, in the water, come on!
- Be brave, grit your teeth and wait 10 to 20 minutes in this almost cold bath, avoiding unnecessary movements. However, you can move in places where the jeans are tight to relax them more quickly: move your thighs if you are tight there, the same for the buttocks. Lean forward while holding
the belt if it is at the waist .
However, be careful with your knees : this is the place that you generally want to relax as little as possible, because you end up a little too easily with "pockets" hanging instead. - Drain the bath and remove
the jeans as delicately as possible . - After you've recovered from your emotions and cleaned up the blue cataclysm you left behind, let your jeans dry, hanging on a hanger in a place where you can let the blue water drops run off without too much trouble.
Don’t hesitate to place a basin underneath. Do not wring the jeans manually, you risk creating strange marks by distributing the indigo poorly.
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A more special case here: the most expensive and artisanal brands almost always offer “non-sanforized” jeans. These fabrics are very sensitive to shrinkage when wet and, thanks to the technique explained above, amateurs manage to obtain a "custom fit" by shrinking the jeans on their own body! On the other hand, I would not recommend it to a beginner because at this stage, it is almost an occult science...
You will see that once dry, it will already fit your body much better than when you first tried it! The crazier among you, or those living in warmer climates, can even wear it until it dries!
Note that this technique can be combined with the "salt and vinegar bath" to relax your jeans AND limit bleeding.
4. The “sorry, don’t want to!” technique : you put your raw jeans in the machine despite everything...
I try to be realistic. I know that despite my recommendations, some of you will put your raw jeans in the washing machine, having no care for the "fading" or having
Well, I can't stop you! But if you do that, at least do me the pleasure of:
- wash it inside out , so as not to expose the visible part of the canvas to the friction of the drum and the pressure of the water, which risk streaking the denim in any way,
- use a delicate program , without spinning, so that the centrifugal force of the machine does not leave ugly white marks on the canvas,
- wash it cold !
- Use detergent for dark laundry to minimize pigment loss!
Really try to wait before doing this!
The sooner this machine wash comes, the more you risk transforming your beautiful raw jeans into very ordinary "washed" jeans, like those found in any major retailer... A little more beautiful, of course, because the fabric of departure will be of better quality... But that would be a shame, right?
These jeans have neither the depth of a new raw canvas, nor the roughness of a pair of jeans faded with patience... Its contrasts and shades of blue are soft, the folds barely marked... This is what you risk if your raw jeans are washed too soon!
Have happy days with your jeans: which wash to choose
1. The “Patina-Friendly” wash
This technique allows you to conserve your initial efforts when you are aiming to obtain a patina that is still very natural.
To this end, I recommend carrying out this first wash after 3 to 6 months of wear - depending on the frequency and use of the jeans - then from time to time, when you find them looking dirty or when they start to wear. feel.
If it's not stained and it doesn't smell... No need to wash!
Beautiful shades of color despite a very advanced stage of fading, a strong and subtle contrast at the same time, "tailor-made" folds which seem to have been drawn in watercolor... Your purist efforts have paid off! That said, don't forget that you can't do miracles: a beautiful wash means good maintenance, but also a beautiful canvas to begin with!
- Fill your bathtub with cold or lukewarm water. Failing that, a basin may do the trick.
- Add a capful of detergent for dark laundry. This will also remove a little more indigo, and also fix more of it.
- Dip your jeans in it and gently swirl them in the water, just to circulate the detergent to all areas . Optionally rub “key” areas, like the crotch, from the inside of the jeans. Never outside!
- Take the jeans out and rinse them again in a bathtub freshly filled with clean water. The shower head is always prohibited.
- Drain the bathtub, and put it to dry! Again, be careful to choose an appropriate location so as not to cause damage.
2. Washing the denim extremist
The extremist doesn't wash his jeans. Never. Don't ask me how, he doesn't wash it, that's all. END.
3. The “sorry, I still don’t want to” wash!
Okay, I understand: you are one of those who REALLY don't want to worry.
In this case, follow the instructions for the “Sorry, I don’t feel like it” technique explained above, and try to space out your washes as much as possible so as not to put your jeans at the end of their life too quickly.
Note, however, that this technique already becomes more viable if the jeans have been worn a lot before their first wash , because the "fading" pattern will have already had time to settle in.
Depending on your tastes, it is possible to obtain satisfactory washes with a machine wash, as long as it is done correctly... and not too early! The result is interesting if you like lighter jeans and softer contrasts.
Little gestures and tips that save your life
Whatever your preferred method among the three mentioned above, here are the little tips that will save your life. They are an essential complement to your washes.
1. Remove localized stains
Take a damp cloth lightly rubbed against a
Better to wait to see if the stain is gone and repeat the operation afterwards, than to rub too much at once and leave a nice faded mark...
2. Keep your jeans cool...or warm!
Contrary to what some reviews found on the Internet may suggest, these are NOT effective ways to "wash" your jeans. This obviously won't make the dirt disappear.
However, freezing can kill some forms
These little combined thermal treatments are good additions to help space out washes , and are highly recommended for refreshing your jeans after a wild evening on the dancefloor or a hotter than expected day.
3. Get him some fresh air
Air your jeans regularly ! Yes, I may be knocking open doors with this advice, but know that a good night in the fresh air can already do your jeans a lot of favors in terms of smell and comfort.
4. What about ironing?
Do not iron your jeans.
Aside from all the inconveniences that could be caused by passing a hot iron overflowing with steam over an unstable dye like indigo, the goal of raw denim is precisely to create "folds" that perfectly follow its wearer.
And anyway, you probably have enough work with your shirts, I'm sure.
If you ironed your raw jeans, you risk completely undoing the creases that have naturally developed over time.... which would somewhat compromise their fading.
5. Help, I have a big task!
The kind that doesn't come off with a damp cloth and Marseille soap? The kind that really shows up?
So, take a big look
You may have wanted to win the competition for the most pronounced denim patina of the year, but you have to know how to make up your mind: when it's really dirty, head for the washing machine!
"I'm in a hurry! How can I speed up the washing?
Do you want to speed up the fading of your jeans? Nothing replaces regular shipping and patience , but let's see what options are available to you!
1. Dirt causes jeans to fade faster
Yes yes, you read me correctly: dirt.
When small dust or particles get stuck between the fibers, it creates continuous friction on the cotton and, therefore, helps to remove the indigo faster.
Note, however, that dirty jeans wear out more quickly : over time, these micro-frictions also eat away at the fiber. In addition, by remaining dry for too long, cotton loses its flexibility and robustness: it becomes more friable.
2. Integrate jeans into your routine
The wearer's lifestyle obviously influences the result.
If you always wear it at home or in an office, if you never run after your bus with it, if you never get down on your knees to pick up something or do the cleaning, if you don't dance in the evening with it... It will wash out less quickly.
Jeans fade at the pace of their wearer. Know that the climate 15 also has its influence!
This is what raw jeans worn over the long term in a tropical country can give: here we see the influence of the very humid and hot climate, which accelerates the fading to the extreme, creating contrasts so strong that they almost seem artificial!
3. Sand your denim
Some “denimheads” rub the creases of their jeans with sandpaper (or even sand at the beach!), for faster fading.
The problem is that the result may be less beautiful because less
4. The power of hot water
If you wash your jeans in hot water, they will lighten quickly. The problem is that it can shrink quite significantly (it all depends on the fabrics), and the fading will be uniform. Goodbye, then, to the clearly marked “fades”.
This can be interesting if you are looking to create your own "light wash denim", using a nice raw canvas. If the starting canvas is beautiful and of high quality, the final result can be very convincing!
The final word...
With that, I think we've covered the subject!
Remember that each canvas behaves differently, and that raw denim is not an exact science: it is a little “art of living” that you should practice in your own way. It is also this pleasure of discovering how your jeans will age over time, which gives the object its charm.
If necessary, click here for more advice on caring for your clothes.
Don’t hesitate to post your best patinas in the comments, as well as your best maintenance failures!
