A little history...
Since the beginning of the creation of BonneGueule, raw denim has been one of our favorite pieces. Moreover, our very first piece - "the BG 1.1", as we called it - was logically raw jeans, a central pillar of the men's wardrobe.
For many of you, this is even your first BonneGueule item of clothing! In this article, we tell you the magnificent history of our iconic jeans: the Alberto.
The Portuguese workshop which placed its trust in us performed prowess from the start.
Benoît, our co-founder, has always wanted to offer impeccable raw denim. This is why he decided to call on a very special supplier: Candiani.
Alberto BonneGueule raw jeans, in Italian canvas from Candiani.
Blue gold and environmental report
With its 2,000,000,000 units sold each year
This figure hides its share of excesses, from the pollution of waterways to lung diseases from industrial sandblasting.
As water-intensive as it is energy-intensive, fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world .
Buying jeans is therefore not a trivial act.
Here, water polluted by dye in China. (Image from the documentary RiverBlue, Photography: Lu Guang/Greenpeace)
If you would like to know more about CSR issues, here is a survey on the subject:
The thirst for greater traceability...
And where do we stand?
When we started, our jeans were cut from fabric from Japan.
But where does the cotton in it come from? Who transforms the fiber into thread, and the threads into canvas? What indigo is used? How is wastewater treated? And since we bought this denim via a broker to save money, what guarantee did we have... that it really came from Japan?
Well, we don't really know ...
Benoît is very perplexed.
We could stick to the information we have and go to sleep peacefully, telling ourselves that we are not going to question a “bestseller”.
But it started to really bother us . Because we don't recognize ourselves in that...
We want more traceability, from bales of cotton to the final canvas. And our supplier Candiani meets all these conditions.
Important note on our environmental policy : from the start, we have chosen suppliers that respect very specific CSR specifications: BlueSign, Oekotex, Master of Linen, Viscose FSC, etc.
Candiani: denim made in Italy
An ethical approach to denim
Our Candiani supplier is: an Italian family spinning mill, it is five generations old . In this regard, the famiglia is not only found among managers: more than 10% of employees employed today have followed in the footsteps of their parents, or even grandparents.
Candiani specializes in the production of high-end denim fabrics, while respecting the environment.
Candiani differs from all other denim factories on at least one point: it is located in the heart of a natural park, the Valle del Ticino .
This unique location has shaped the way he works. The spinning mill is subject to strict legislation - more than for any other factory of its kind - so that its work respects the environment in which it is located.
Located in a natural park, the Candiani spinning mill must respect draconian environmental standards. No other denim factory operates under these conditions!
Towards the greenest jeans possible
"The textile industry, given the increasing prevalence of globalization [...] has a difficult task ahead. It is our job to set the standard for an excellent and sustainable product." -Gianluigi Candiani
R&D is an integral part of the company's DNA, which continues to rack its brains to leave the smallest possible ecological footprint.
Water, energy, waste... everything is recycled and reused. And this is only the visible part of their efforts!
Thanks to two patented processes, the
75% water saved and 65% fewer chemicals.
The spinning mill's objective within two years: to create the first 100% biodegradable denim . To be continued!
Selvedge jeans: exclusively Japanese know-how?
Selvedge jeans are so assimilated to Japan that they ended up being defined as “Japanese fabric”.
Although it is an American invention, the inhabitants of the Japanese archipelago were able to appropriate and ennoble it.
This weaving, obtained using shuttle looms, offers a stronger canvas and a more durable construction , in return for lower output for the workshop.
We could then say that the Italians cannot compete... but that was without counting on the know-how of Candiani, which has been producing workwear since 1938 , well before the rise of Japanese denim!
A selvedge loom, the kind of old mechanics that Candiani continues to use.
We can visually see the difference between a roll of selvedge canvas (less wide but denser) and a roll of classic canvas.
Contrary to
Our Candiani canvas and its beloved red and white border.
The wash of the jeans will be all the more beautiful if the fabric is
It will patina on areas of wear, where an ordinary canvas might have already given way to abrasion.
Mastery of all stages of production
Candiani has total control over its production line : the company is said to be vertically integrated.
Here are the main steps in pictures:
It all starts with the arrival of the bales of cotton...
The well-cleaned cotton that will soon be woven...
It's weaving time.
Going through the dyeing department. You can see the threads waiting to be dyed on the right.
Once the warp threads are dyed, they are woven. And that's where the magic happens.
Moreover, Candiani does not hesitate to modify its looms in order to further improve their reliability and performance. Unfortunately we cannot tell you more, due to professional secrecy...
Ultimately, Candiani is as capable of producing a beautiful selvedge canvas as the Japanese.
The difference is mainly in the approach: the Japanese generally favor tradition, whereas Candiani strives to combine it with modernity.
Through the creation of its Candiani Denim Bluniversity , the mill preaches the good word throughout the world for jeans that are clean, beautiful and solid.
Presentation of our raw selvedge jeans
The most authentic canvas possible
The fabric of our Alberto selvedge jeans is 100% cotton.
For purists, it is a 3 x 1 canvas: for each weft thread (horizontal), there are 3 warp threads (vertical). So in terms of robustness and solidity, no worries !
And with its weight of 13 oz, it can be considered a pair of jeans.
Jeans to wear all year round.
The weaving is carried out using the 72 WARP method, another Candiani innovation which celebrated its 25th anniversary. The warp threads form a sort of ring, which gives a real grain and relief to the material.
Do you see the very particular hand of the canvas, yet so characteristic of selvedge? This relief is obtained thanks to 72 Warp, Candiani's own weaving.
Jeans optimized for a very beautiful wash
The threads have been dipped twice in dye for a very deep blue. Touches of gray have also been added , for a nuanced canvas that takes the light well.
The kind of details that give character to your selvedge...
Finding the right blue was no easy task.
One last thing: Candiani uses "pre-reduced" indigo which significantly reduces the use of
A canvas full of nuance, which promises a very beautiful wash.
The real pleasure of raw jeans is seeing its fabric fade and patina over time.
Do you put your hands in your pockets? This will be seen. The one where you store your phone, too, as well as your walk. This phenomenon makes your piece absolutely unique: that's what we were looking for with these jeans.
A cut that lengthens your silhouette
In terms of cut, no surprise: our Alberto is a slim cut. A fitted jean that flatters the figure while remaining comfortable.
A cut that won't fail you.
Extensive tailoring, as usual!
The canvas is then assembled in our usual workshop, located in Portugal, not far from Porto.
We haven't forgotten the usual high-end details : semi-lined back pockets, chain stitch, reinforced belt loops... Everything is there.
The chain stitch, dear to purists.
How to get Alberto raw jeans?
Alberto raw selvedge jeans are already available.
How to choose your size?
The sizing of our Alberto jeans is normal, just take your usual size .
The material has been washed at the factory to stabilize it: don't worry, your jeans will not shrink.