A bit of history...
Since the beginning of BonneGueule's creation, raw denim has been one of our favorite pieces. In fact, our very first piece - "the BG 1.1", as we called it - was logically a raw denim, a central pillar of the men's wardrobe.
For many of you, this is even your first BonneGueule garment! In this article, we retrace the magnificent history of our iconic jeans: the Alberto.
The Portuguese workshop that trusted us performed wonders right from the start.
Benoît, our co-founder, has always wanted to offer impeccable raw denim. That's why he decided to call on a very special supplier: Candiani.
Alberto BonneGueule raw jeans, in Italian canvas from Candiani.
Blue gold and environmental assessment
With 2,000,000,000 units sold each yearworldwide , jeans are the most worn item of clothing on the planet .
This figure hides its share of excesses, from the pollution of waterways to lung diseases from industrial sandblasting.
As water-intensive as it is energy-intensive, fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world .
Buying jeans is therefore not a trivial act.
Here, waters polluted by dyeing in China. (Image from the documentary RiverBlue, Photography: Lu Guang/Greenpeace)
If you want to know more about CSR issues, here is a survey on the subject:
The thirst for greater traceability...
And where do we stand?
When we started, our jeans were cut from fabric from Japan.
But where does the cotton in it come from? Who transforms the fiber into thread, and the threads into canvas? What indigo is used? How is the wastewater treated? And since we bought this denim through a broker to save money, what guarantee did we have... that it really came from Japan?
Well, we don't really know ...
Benoît is very perplexed.
We could stick to the information we have and go to sleep peacefully, telling ourselves that we are not going to question a "best-seller".
But it started to deeply disturb us . Because we don't recognize ourselves in it...
We want more traceability, from cotton bales to the final canvas. And our supplier Candiani meets all these conditions.
Important note on our environmental policy : from the beginning we have chosen suppliers who respect very precise CSR specifications: BlueSign, Oekotex, Master of Linen, Viscose FSC, etc.
Candiani: denim made in Italy
An ethical approach to denim
Our supplier Candiani is: an Italian family spinning mill, it is five generations old . In this regard, the famiglia is not only found among the managers: more than 10% of employees employed today have followed in the footsteps of their parents, or even grandparents.
Candiani specializes in the production of high-end denim fabrics, while respecting the environment.
Candiani differs from all other denim factories in at least one way: it is located in the heart of a natural park, the Valle del Ticino .
This unique location has shaped the way it works. The spinning mill is subject to strict legislation - more than any other manufacture of its kind - to ensure that its work respects the environment in which it is located.
Located in a natural park, the Candiani spinning mill must respect draconian environmental standards. No other denim factory operates under these conditions!
Towards the greenest jeans possible
"The textile industry, given the increasing generalization of globalization [...] has a difficult task to accomplish. It is our job to set the standard for an excellent and sustainable product." - Gianluigi Candiani
R&D is an integral part of the company's DNA, which continues to rack its brains to leave the smallest possible ecological footprint.
Water, energy, waste... everything is recycled and reused. And that's just the visible part of their efforts!
Thanks to two patented processes, Kitotex and Indigo Juice , it has managed to achieve real feats.
75% water saved and 65% fewer chemicals.
The spinning mill's goal within two years: to create the first 100% biodegradable denim . Watch this space!
Selvedge jeans: an exclusively Japanese know-how?
Selvedge denim is so associated with Japan that it has come to be defined as "Japanese canvas."
Although it is an American invention, the inhabitants of the Japanese archipelago have effectively managed to appropriate and ennoble it.
This weave, obtained using shuttle looms, offers a stronger canvas and a more durable construction , in return for a lower output for the workshop.
We could then say that the Italians cannot compete... but that was without counting on the know-how of Candiani, which has been producing workwear since 1938 , well before the rise of Japanese denim!
A selvedge loom, the kind of old machinery that Candiani continues to use.
You can visually see the difference between a roll of selvedge canvas (narrower but denser) and a roll of classic canvas.
Unlike slack denim , the edges of a selvedge canvas are not cut, hence the characteristic edging.
Our Candiani canvas and its beloved red and white border.
The more solid the fabric, the more beautiful the denim wash will be .
It will develop a patina on the worn areas, where a standard canvas might have already given way to abrasion.
Mastery of all stages of production
Candiani has total control over its production chain : the company is said to be vertically integrated.
Here are the main steps in pictures:
It all starts with the arrival of the cotton bales...
The well-cleaned cotton that will soon be woven...
It's time to weave.
Passing through the dyeing department. You can see the yarns waiting to be dyed on the right.
Once the warp threads are dyed, they are woven. And that's where the magic happens.
Moreover, Candiani does not hesitate to modify its looms in order to further improve their reliability and performance. Unfortunately, we cannot tell you more, due to professional secrecy...
Ultimately, Candiani is just as capable of producing a beautiful selvedge canvas as the Japanese.
The difference is mainly in the approach: the Japanese generally favour tradition, whereas Candiani strives to combine it with modernity.
Through the creation of its Candiani Denim Bluniversity , the mill is spreading the good word around the world for jeans that are clean, beautiful and strong.
Introducing our raw selvedge denim
The most authentic canvas possible
The fabric of our Alberto selvedge jeans is 100% cotton.
For purists, it is a 3 x 1 canvas: for each weft thread (horizontal), there are 3 warp threads (vertical). So in terms of robustness and solidity, no worries !
And with its 13 oz weight, it can be considered a four-season jean.
Jeans to wear all year round.
The weaving is done using the 72 WARP method, another Candiani innovation that has celebrated its 25th anniversary. The warp threads form a sort of ring, which gives a real grain and relief to the material.
Do you see the very particular hand of the canvas, yet so characteristic of selvedge? This relief is obtained thanks to the 72 Warp, a weave specific to Candiani.
A jean optimized for a very beautiful wash
The threads were dipped twice in the dye for a very deep blue. Touches of gray were also added , for a nuanced canvas that takes the light well.
The kind of details that give character to your selvedge...
Finding the right blue was no easy feat.
One last thing: Candiani uses "pre-reduced" indigo which significantly reduces the use of chemicals.
A canvas full of nuance, which promises a very beautiful wash.
The real pleasure of raw denim is seeing its fabric fade and acquire a patina over time.
Do you put your hands in your pockets? It will show. The one where you put your phone, too, as well as your gait. This phenomenon makes your piece absolutely unique: that's what we were looking for with these jeans.
A cut that lengthens your silhouette
Cut-wise, no surprises: our Alberto is a slim fit. A fitted jean that flatters the figure while remaining comfortable.
A cut that won't let you down.
A sophisticated creation, as usual!
The canvas is then mounted in our usual workshop, located in Portugal, not far from Porto.
We haven't forgotten the usual high-end details : semi-lined back pockets, chain stitch, reinforced belt loops... It's all there.
The chain stitch, dear to purists.
How to get Alberto raw denim?
The Alberto raw selvedge denim is now available.
How to choose your size?
The sizing of our Alberto jeans is normal, just take your usual size .
The material has been factory washed to stabilize it: don't worry, your jeans won't shrink.