The Big Comparison #3: Testing Café Coton shirts, TM Lewin, Charles Tyrwhitt

For episode #3 of the Great comparison of shirts under 90 euros , we have grouped three brands in a rather special category: that of very attractive promotional strategies , with big reductions to boot.

Decreasing prices during group purchases, sales at -50% from the start of the season... Is this necessarily the sign of a good deal?

Let's see it together!

Charles Tyrwhitt - Blue Herringbone Cotton-Wool Shirt

A shirt priced at €49.90 - rising to €61.85 after the sleeve length adjustment option - positioned among the least expensive in our comparison.

The differentiating point about the prices of this brand? The shirts are at a decreasing price when you buy several.

The basis: the material

A light blue chevron twill, woven with blue and white threads, with a very irregular weave which creates a “snow” effect in the fabric.

Its particularity is to be made of 90% cotton and 10% wool , which contributes to the mottled effect mentioned above. The material is a little warmer and has a particular feel.

It is very convincing as is, but I am a little worried about the maintenance of this shirt and the first washes: on a shirt with 10% wool, no guarantee as to stability or pilling.

Cut and sizing side

The neck strap is clearly wide in proportion to the rest , which will be annoying for the majority of you, but which can prove to be a saving solution for this small minority who always have difficulty closing the top button.

Apart from that, I see that the alteration to the sleeves (offered for a small additional fee) was well executed.

In terms of fit, we feel that the brand has a somewhat old-fashioned vision of cuts , since this “extra slim fit” rather resembles the idea we would have of a classic “slim fit”.

What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?

A Chinese confection that is a little difficult to convince...

Collar and cuffs

• Hold: cardboardy and excessive support on the collar stand, while the collar itself is completely flexible. We end up with a very strange and unsightly effect, especially when the shirt is worn with the first buttons open.

• Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: imperfect on the collar, which is all the more annoying when it has long points as is the case with this one...

• Stripping of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: very good, close to the seams and regular.

Fine craftsmanship

• Threads sticking out: quite numerous.

• Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, which is quite respectable in this price range.

• Armhole alignment: everything is fine.

• Shirt bottom hem: medium. Fine, but quite irregular.

• Buttonholes: not great. Average density and relief, but a visible lack of cleanliness and threads sticking out on each of them!

Details

• Buttons: imitation mother-of-pearl plastic, without reinforcing tail.

• Reinforcement swallows: triangular in shape. Correct execution, nothing more.

• Throat: simple.

Style and appearance

The material has a beautiful appearance, and this more irregular cotton-wool blend succeeds in making the chevron, although of very formal origin, more casual.

The collar is a button-down that I would describe as dressy or classic. The length of the collar point is closer to that of a formal shirt, which is a fairly strong bias which directly propels the shirt into the very particular (but full of charm!) niche of “casual tailoring”, which We consider the “casual” dimension of more formal styles.

However, a big downside taints this stylistic choice: the collar which falls too much on the torso when worn open . This really ruins some casual outfits that could have been achieved.

How to wear it?

This is a shirt that would go very well with your “gentleman farmer” tweed jackets or your casual Italian jersey blazers.

Strengthen its texture by juxtaposing it with other winter materials , like below with donegal pants and a cashmere tie. A pair of slightly country shoes, like the grained leather boots I'm wearing here, will be right in the spirit.

And the overall length of the shirt of course reserves it for wearing in pants.

Brand and customer experience

The choice from this brand is very wide, with a great prevalence for a classic and formal style, British and very formal.

Be careful, English sizes and their method of measurement (especially on the sleeve length which begins in the middle of the back) could confuse more than one person. Get help from customer service! The expedition went smoothly.

The promotions are still impressive: between the decreasing prices when you buy several shirts, and the fact that the brand has sales on top of that, there is really enough to help smaller budgets to provide themselves with a good quantity of formal shirts. However, given the quality of this Chinese confection, I wouldn't say it's the deal of the century either.

Finally, I regret the brand's “communication game” around English traditionalism, the mention of Jermyn Street and this whole “gentleman” universe, which often misleads consumers.

The brand manufactures in China, which would not be a problem in itself if it did not play a little on this ambiguity, and if this information was easy to find: it is not written anywhere on the site... Or even on the various labels of the shirt! I had to do some research on forums to find out.

TM Lewin - Blue twill dress shirt

A shirt priced at £34.95, coming to a total of £42.95 after the sleeve length adjustment option. We therefore arrive at €49 according to the current conversion rate, which makes it the cheapest shirt in our entire comparison.

Prices are not automatically converted into euros on the shop. They seem much more advantageous when you order directly from the UK version of the site, than by going to the “Europe” shop where the prices are rounded upwards.

Just like Charles Tyrwhitt, this brand is known for its discounts on the purchase of several shirts at once.

The basis: the material

A light blue twill, woven with blue and white threads, very bright, dense and regular.

The hand feels soft and pleasant.

However, this type of thick material should be avoided in hot weather.

It is double twisted and therefore benefits from a nice texture which, combined with the natural thickness of the fabric, guarantees minimal creasing .

Cut and sizing side

From a purely sizing point of view, it's a normal 38: the build corresponds quite well to the neck size.

On the other hand, in terms of cut, it is surely one of the widest “slim fits” that I have had : chest, sleeves, stomach, there is really room everywhere.

For me, it's more of a straight cut than anything else.

Most men (yes, including those who aren't really "slim") will probably turn to an extra-slim fit at home, to have a minimally snug fit.

What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?

A Vietnamese confection that does a decent job, considering the price.

Collar and cuffs

• Hold: a good balance between flexibility and rigidity, the collar is held in place without being cardboardy.
  On the other hand, he suffers from the famous “seizing cervix syndrome”.

• Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!

• Stripping of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: very good, close to the seams and regular.

Fine craftsmanship

• Threads sticking out: few.

• Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter It's very fair for the price.

• Armhole alignment: everything is fine.

• Shirt bottom hem: medium. Fine, but quite irregular.

• Buttonholes: not bad! Little relief, but very clean.

Details

• Buttons: thick plastic, imitation mother-of-pearl. No reinforcement tail and sewn parallel. Nothing special, then.

• Reinforcement swallows: rounded in shape. Well done.

• Patterns aligned with each other: correct.

• Throat: simple, lined with a fine iron-on for hold. Interesting to give more hold to a formal shirt, which will be subject to twisting and rubbing in the pants.

Style and appearance

Very wide cuffs with double rows of buttons, triple gathers (sleeve pleats) on the wrist, American throat… No doubt, we are in a pure and simple formal/business style.

The satiny appearance of this type of twill is suitable only for wearing a suit. When we add its substantial length and its very classic collar, we quickly conclude that this shirt will be wearable outside of pants, and even to be avoided with a blazer.

Frankly, it's a little too old-fashioned and stuffy for my tastes, and the cut really doesn't help.

The collar is a very common wide Italian collar. He suffers, as I told you, from a common pathology on this type of dress collar: the syndrome of the “collar that comes off” and which is completely crushed on the sides when it is not entirely closed, making the completely wearable shirt with first buttons open.

How to wear it?

Think of this shirt as an office shirt to wear only with a tie and a suit.

Expect this cut to look rather odd on you unless you are very overweight or over a certain age.

Brand and customer experience

The range of choice offered by brand is very wide but, outside of formal or business style, I find most of the more casual options to be unappealing . They often fall into what is called “daddy's shirt”, in the cliché and pejorative sense of the term.

This involves a selection consistent with a somewhat “dated” vision, according to which thoughtful and well-made clothes are intended for work. "Casual" would mean, roughly, small checks and stripes in colors that don't harmonize well with each other, and improbable cuts.

Be careful, just like with Charles Tyrwhitt, English sizes and their method of measurement (especially on the sleeve length which begins in the middle of the back) can be confusing. Do not hesitate to ask customer service for help!

Nothing to report about the expedition which went well!

Very nice promotions that can bring prices down very low if you combine the sales with orders for several shirts at once!

Same problem as with Charles Tyrwhitt: a certain “communication game” of the brand around “British tailoring”, Jermyn Street and traditional methods, without writing anywhere on the site that the shirts are made in Vietnam . Once again, this is not a problem in itself, but the consumer should not be misled.

Well, at least it's visible on the label when you receive the shirt...

Café Coton (“Selection” Line) - Blue herringbone business shirt

This shirt and its line are a special case in this test.

I included this line which aims to be more “high-end” because you asked me a lot, particularly because its starting price of 130 euros is automatically discounted at -50% each season.

This therefore makes it a guaranteed purchase at 65 euros. Is this a real good deal?

The basis: the material

A bright light blue chevron - even a little shiny - made of sky blue threads. The weave is tight and the thickness is medium.

It is therefore a shirt intended more for winter or mid-season.

It has a “nervous” hand (due to the “double twisted” yarn): to the touch, you feel that the shirt tends to regain its shape more easily when you exert pressure on it .. It will therefore crease a little slower, especially since the fabric is "consistent".

Cut and sizing side

This fitted cut suits me quite well.

It's a 38 with no surprises in terms of sizing: adjusted just right for me in the chest; slightly fitted to the stomach without overdoing it; very “standard” on the type of morpho targeted.

Obviously, we are on a real formal shirt length, designed to be worn inside the pants.

That said, the shirt really lacks comfort in the arms . We are in tension at the slightest movement: the fault is an armhole that is too low.

It's a shame, the small excess fabric present at the back of the shoulders - although well proportioned - could have allowed for better comfort with a higher armhole... and this, without compromising the fit.

What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?

Some good points, but given the starting price indicated, this Turkish confection is very disappointing. In sales, it already takes a price more proportional to its quality.

Collar and cuffs

• Hold: the iron-on is well chosen, finding the right balance between flexibility and rigidity without being too cardboardy. It almost doesn’t “crack”. However, this collar struggles not to “fly away” at the sides when worn open, which makes the shirt almost unwearable open without a tie. A real negative point, therefore.

• Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: imperfect on the collar. When it is folded in half on itself, it cannot align. This kind of asymmetry is problematic because it affects the overall harmony of the shirt in an imperceptible but present way, especially in an area as central as the collar.

• Removing the cuffs, collar and collar stand: quite close to the edge but you can still pinch the excess on the cuffs.

Fine craftsmanship

• Threads sticking out: too many. The production is not very clean. To improve especially on the swallows and the bottom hem of the shirt.

• Seams: on the cuffs, there are 8 stitches per centimeter as announced on the site, which is rare enough to be mentioned.... However, it seems that this is not the case on the entire shirt , and there are rather 6 or 7 of us depending on the location. Quite disappointing.

• Armhole alignment: everything is fine.

• Bottom hem of shirt: not good. Irregular, with huge threads sticking out. This is not normal for a shirt at 130 euros excluding sales.

• Buttonholes: beautiful, well-embossed, dense and clean buttonholes. A good point for this shirt.

Details

• Buttons: fine mother-of-pearl, cross-stitched. No reinforcement tail. The mother-of-pearl is a nice bonus.

• Reinforcement swallows: sloppy. It's really not well sewn.

• Patterns aligned with each other: no, which can be a problem with such an imposing herringbone pattern.

• Throat: American. The topstitching is not straight everywhere, and the effect is reinforced by the misalignment of the rafters. The combination of the two really makes the whole throat look like it's rippling all over. This jumped out at me as soon as I opened the shirt.

Style and appearance

The main interest of this material really lies in its slightly shiny, but natural appearance .

This characteristic, which is also found on certain slightly thick shirt twills, makes it very “precious” and therefore reserved for very dressy outfits.

But for a shirt that is intended to be so formal, the details are a little heavy for my taste and the whole lacks “purity” : the American throat, combined with the chevrons and, above all, the double row of buttons on the cuffs, give it a too busy and cramped side. It's even slightly old-fashioned in my opinion.

This is a model that will probably appeal more to fans of somewhat strict British tailoring.

As for the Italian collar, even if it is a “standard” choice, I regret above all that it was poorly worked: we have a fairly visible case of “collar coming off”...

How to wear it?

Dress shoes, tie, and mismatched suit or suit! You can't cut it, this shirt is made for that and nothing else!

Brand and customer experience

Nothing to complain about the delivery and the site, what is necessary is done. On the other hand, we have here a good example of the kind of promotional strategies that we do not endorse at all.

The starting price is far too high for the product you are buying, and the -50% which returns at the start of each sales period , regardless of stock, makes you believe in a great promotion... while the shirt drops simply at a more “normal” price compared to its quality.

Regrettable.

In short...

A quick summary of the strong points and those to improve on these three shirts!

Charles Tyrwhitt herringbone cotton-wool shirt

Strong points

• A material that stands out from the crowd.

• An interesting style bias.

• A very affordable price, especially when taking advantage of promotions.

• The possibility of adjusting its sleeve length.

Areas for improvement

• An inconsistent neck size compared to the sizing (but it will be a good point for the few men who always have difficulty closing the top button ).

• A confection that leaves a little to be desired.

• The collar that sits strangely.

• The brand's “ British tradition” communication game, which is quite far from the reality of the product.

The TM Lewin blue twill shirt

Strong points

• Good material.

• A very affordable price, especially when taking advantage of promotions.

• The possibility of adjusting its sleeve length.

• A decent level of finish for the price.

Areas for improvement

• The “collar that sticks out” and crashes at the sides when worn open.

• The “artisanal British tradition” marketing which is a little overrated, anyway.

• Different prices on the “Europe” version of the site and the British version. There is surely a legal and commercial explanation behind all this, but from a consumer point of view, it is not very pleasant to see.

• The style is a little old-fashioned.

• The cut that took me from 23 to 43, in just one photo!

Blue herringbone shirt Café Coton

Strong points

• A nice material for a formal shirt.

• Pretty buttonholes.

• Mother-of-pearl buttons.

Areas for improvement

• The collar that flies away.

• The tailoring leaves something to be desired.

• The alignment of the patterns which is absent, rather annoying on this type of material.

• Ease of movement.

• The brand's pricing strategy.

That's it for this third episode! The fourth and final part will be published next Sunday.

Until then, don't hesitate to reread the first and second episodes of this comparison.

And as usual, don't hesitate to ask your questions and share your feedback in the comments. We will answer you with great pleasure!