Take a taupe suit. Add white stripes to it: you get a wedding outfit. Large, thin tiles? A very stylish professional suit. What if it is woven with a Prince of Wales pattern? It will be worn in the evening with a shirt and a 5 pocket.
What, better than the pattern, can set the tone of an outfit? Checks, flowers, stripes and other designs have always acted like compasses on men's wardrobe, directing clothing towards multiple uses and various occasions.
The tartan alone sums up the incredible symbolic power of the pattern: these complex checks, known throughout the world, were enough to express the social rank and power of a man. True sartorial coats of arms, they were the result of sophisticated and thoughtful work, owing nothing to chance... Which has not changed much.
That being said, it is not always easy to navigate. What is the point of a pattern? Which one to choose ? For what occasions? This is what we are going to see together.
Why wear patterns?
There isn't really a standard answer to this question. This is a purely personal choice, there is no obligation to wear one.
However, when you are looking to “level up” on the costume, it is an easy option. They allow you to bring style and character to the room , with variable intensity.
Some, like the wide stripes, evoke great formalism, while the Prince of Wales is more fanciful. The negative side of all this is that a pattern can also go out of fashion - really - and is not necessarily easy to match: it will have difficulty being worn with another pattern for example, with the exception of the pocket square. or tie
Pitti, the largest parade of patterned costumes in the world!
It is now time to go into detail: we will guide you through the patterns, classified by main families. The list cannot be exhaustive but brings together the great classics. At the end of the article, you will find a selection of good addresses for purchasing!
The most common: squares
Squares are THE large family of geometric patterns, those that we find the most because of the plurality of variations.
They are everywhere today, even if you will rarely find gingham or checkerboard in the world of suits, unlike checks.
Tiles, an easy approach to patterns
After acquiring one or two plain and sober suits, many opt for checks when it comes to turning to a more “marked” model.
If the checkers
They come in different sizes, most often quite large. But even more than the size, it is the colors that determine whether the pattern is striking or not.
Subtle.
Discreetly with tone on tone
The tone on tone, very discreet, will consist of a barely perceptible nuance between the color of the suit and that of the pattern .
As a result, we have a fabric that is almost textured by the pattern that can only be seen up close, yet offering a beautiful depth.
Almost invisible here, the pattern is nevertheless very present and will bring an interesting variation in texture.
Its sobriety makes it a choice pattern for versatile pieces : you can go to work with it without problem, but it will be no less appropriate for a date or a wedding. From there you can play on the shirt and accessories
For once, the patterns are playable (more marked checks, for example) and will give a dressier side to the outfit. The plain white shirt and tie, very professional, can be swapped for a shirt more colorful or even a sweater. We can also imagine a bow tie slipped in, just to add a touch of sophistication.
A first ultra classic look, a second well done with the fine sweater which recalls the pattern of the suit more forcefully.
The contrasting tile, mastered originality
The contrasting tile remains, in my opinion, the most interesting: the edges will be of a much more visible color, which will highlight the pattern.
If the tone on tone suits all body types, strong men will be wary of the contrasting tile for its massive side .
At the moment, for example, there is a plethora of navy blue fabrics marked with fine white checks, which works very well!
Just as dressy as the others, it is generally worn with a plain shirt: it is therefore very easy to match.
You really shouldn't be afraid of it because it is indeed a simple pattern, very widely popularized in recent years in men's fashion.
Big plus: its ability to inspire a “sport chic” touch in an outfit composed, for example, of a polo shirt and chinos, or even light-colored shorts. The looks are bolder, but the pieces work really well together. We can imagine a jacket with more sober checks and beige chinos for a simpler version to execute.
The case of checkers and gingham
Finally, there are checkerboard/vichy patterns, which are more difficult to master. The first are clearly out of reach, much too close to disguise in terms of costume.
The gingham pattern, characterized by the crossing of solid two-tone lines, is much more common and affordable.
Blue, brown, black: gingham tiles come in many shades . Rightly so, they convey a retro image when the suit is made from a thick tweed-like wool, although a smooth flannel gingham is much more timeless.
A superb, lightweight gingham jacket in a Neapolitan style.
Imposing even when the colors are sober, gingham will also be satisfied with a plain shirt. It is also not recommended in strict professional environments , but offers superb outfits for the evening: worn with jeans, it is a hit.
Sometimes sartorial, sometimes modern and refined, gingham takes on many tones.
Now let's come to patterns from the square family that are a little more complex, in every sense of the word!
The most British of squares: tartan
Very associated with our British friends, tartan is extremely old: traces of it can be found as early as 3,500 BC in Asia, in Tokharian tombs.
Of course, the Celtic peoples also left their mark on the history of tartan, since they made this woolen fabric a real social and family marker. The colors and design of the pattern varied according to the social rank and geographical origin of the family.
The most famous of all tartans, emblem of the Burberry house, the Haymarket Check.
It is a more complex pattern than other tiles because it can be seen as an overlay of multi-colored checkers and borders .
There are an infinite number of them, even if some remain particularly famous, like the Black Watch, the McLeod, or even the “powerful” Royal Stewart.
Black Watch, MacLeod and Royal Stewart: they are all familiar to us!
You will notice, at the sight of these diagonals, that the tartan is a twill woven pattern
Tartans were hijacked by punk movements, regularly appearing in the collections of alternative designers like Vivienne Westwood or Alexander McQueen.
Punks and designers are taking over Tartan to completely subvert its meaning.
Now, it tends to create a special place for itself in the sartorial wardrobe. Far from its usual bright or garish colors, tartan is composed of more sober palettes of brown, gray, dark green...
Often designed in three pieces, the tartan suit is modernizing and evolving towards simpler, fitted cuts. Despite its strong character, its elegance can make it a pattern suitable for the professional world.
Association level, no difficulty: plain shirt, simple and without artifice. The same goes for shoes. The costume is sufficient in itself.
The models marketed today are more or less sober and offer something for all tastes. Notice the recurrence of the simple white shirt.
Tartan has a soul. It is one of those fabrics/patterns which have marked eras, places and go so far as to be real vectors of political and cultural messages.
Suffice it to say that wearing tartan, without making you an inveterate rebel, nevertheless requires showing a minimum of confidence...
I would really encourage you to get started. Although imposing, it does not offer fifty possible "readings": a three-piece in gray tartan, if it is clearly not a model of sobriety, will above all give off an impression of elegance and audacity. And there’s no harm in standing out from the crowd in this sense 😉
The Tom Ford A/W 2009 campaign: one of the most striking ads in men's fashion. What's the first word that comes to mind when you see this costume?
The most royal: the Prince of Wales
We end the family of squares with the famous Prince of Wales.
Despite what its name suggests, it was designed for those - servants... - who were not allowed to wear tartan.
Even more than tartan, this emblematic pattern has enjoyed growing success in recent years, especially in men's fashion. No less complex, it often remains finer and more discreet than its ancestor.
The formal version. Gray Prince of Wales suit with a few blue lines, baby blue shirt, green tie, brown shoes. Easy, right?
“Fancy things” were therefore added to these superpositions of tiles, making up the basis of the pattern: for example, we find houndstooth at the level of the “crossings” of lines.
Notice the complexity and diversity of the patterns: contrasting houndstooth, oblique lines, straight lines, checkerboard...
In the United Kingdom, the Prince of Wales finds his place in a very casual, even sporty wardrobe... It being understood that no one goes running with pants like that, but rather goes golfing.
In the countries where it was exported, such as France or Italy, the pattern has nevertheless integrated a very sartorial universe . We see it a lot on three-piece or more modern suits, especially in summer.
It often appears woven from shades of beige and brown, with light hues often dominating over dark ones.
At SuitSupply you'll find three-piece Prince of Wales suits that are very dressy - almost too dressy.
It also has the particularity of going easily with beige chinos or jeans. Its relaxed attitude makes it a good customer for casual shoes such as brogues or derby shoes, or even sneakers.
It is undoubtedly in this casual chic register that the Prince of Wales can be the most interesting. Enough to give free rein to your imagination!
I wouldn't have thought of raw denim with this jacket, at first glance. However, with its shades of “string beige” and the pale pink shirt, the assembly works perfectly.
Stripes, a divisive pattern
If stripes have always been part of men's wardrobe, some of them are particularly "connoted" and associated with a certain form of vulgarity.
However, they are capable of refining and slimming a silhouette, we will come back to this.
Sobriety is essential...
It must be said that wide stripes are, when it comes to suits, purely ridiculous. Unless you have an extremely strong style and therefore an unparalleled mastery of elegance, it will be impossible to get away with it.
A little outdated too: the stripes of different colors that we saw a lot a few years ago. Remember those entry-level gray suits with these lines in purple tones, of variable width... This kind of "memory" remains but does not necessarily age well.
Legion in the 2000s, this type of pattern is really old-fashioned and sad today. Beyond the random cut of the costume!
The elegance of fine stripes
The finer stripes, emblems of the sartorial world: they are undoubtedly the dressiest of all patterns . Consequently, their presence indicates an extremely formal register, so there is no need to try to mismatch a jacket for example!
The more marked the contrast between the stripe and the shade of the fabric, the more "strong" the suit will be, a phenomenon which will be accentuated by double-breasted cuts or three-pieces that are already very formal.
Here are some examples to help you understand.
Two beautiful pieces where the stripes appear clearly, contrasting with the blue of the fabrics. The first model lengthens and refines the silhouette thanks to the fine and tight lines , much more than the second model. A good point for just about everyone, except the tall and thin. Given its very formal side, a striped suit is almost systematically worn with a plain shirt, tie and pocket square... An outfit that could suit a groom.
So let's move on to something a little easier.
We stick with a dressy outfit on the left but already less strong, easier to adopt. We could also have afforded a pair of more casual shoes. The second suit has, like the one above, spaced and thick stripes. That being said, the stripe/fabric contrast is less strong, which “smooths” the piece.
And we can go even further in this direction.
In these two examples, the fineness of the stripes and the weakness of the contrast mean that they integrate perfectly, without standing out. The looks certainly remain dressy, but easier to understand because they are more discreet.
In conclusion on scratches, we could say that experience will make the difference .
A seasoned man, sure of his tastes and his style, will be able to turn to a marked motif and play on its classicism. On the other hand, someone less experienced will rather choose thin and less visible lines.
The unclassifiable: good or bad idea?
Finally, there remains a series of “unclassifiable” patterns, unique in their kind.
Houndstooth: it’s better to think small
It has made a fairly marked comeback among the British and some Italians, no doubt for its vintage dimension.
For men, it remains quite rare, especially when it comes to suits. If you come across one and it’s your favorite, why not, but be careful of the size of the patterns ! Too bulky, they become extremely conspicuous...
More and more brands are choosing to work with “micro houndstooth”, a mini version of the pattern. From a distance, it looks like tiny tiles; up close, you can see its unique shape. In this case, we are faced with fairly casual pieces, easy to mix and match and almost rustic depending on the colors and materials.
The micro houndstooth remains visible, but easier to manage.
“Don’t be a fool”
The polka dot suit instantly makes me think of Léo Messi in 2012, who posed with his Golden Ball adorned in a Dolce & Gabbana ensemble.
Exactly, I would say that only slightly crazy Italians or football players under contract with luxury brands wear this pattern in a suit. Unless you come across polka dots that are really well “melted” into the fabric, which is not commonplace.
Let's leave the polka dot suits to Messi...
The jumble of fantasies
Finally, you will have noticed that men's fashion is increasingly marked by prints of all kinds, from the most sober to the most eccentric.
On this one, you will have to figure it out on your own: it is solely and exclusively a question of feeling. In itself, why not, but the universe in which you evolve will play a big role.
Needless to say, a neutral shirt is a must, as is a hell of a lot of confidence
The opportunities to wear a costume adorned with pumpkins seem as rare as those of seeing a Frenchman win Roland Garros in the next 10 years...
Selection: where to buy patterned suits?
Presumably, most common suit brands will offer designs that lend themselves to a professional context.
SuitSupply is undoubtedly the best “general public” address for this type of piece.
Faithful to Italian flamboyance, Boggi also offers a large choice, with a selection perhaps a little more "fashionable".
The French Wicket is not to be outdone - particularly on the "sports" jackets and their well-executed patterns - as is Louis Purple .
If you have the opportunity, we encourage you to look into measuring brands. They do not have the same stock issues, which allows them to offer more daring or sought-after fabrics .
The final word...
Once you have a solid foundation in terms of costumes, you are quickly tempted to explore new avenues. This obviously involves the type of material... but also the patterns.
Where a suit ultimately remains a “neutral” piece, the patterns give it another tone. So a pinstriped suit will give off a very formal feel, unlike a more relaxed Prince of Wales blazer.
From squares to stripes, tartan and pineapple leaves, there really is something for everyone.
And if necessary, here for all our advice on choosing a suit .
