I think you will agree with me, but it seems to me that an Italian wind has been blowing over Bonnegueule for some time... So I decided to give it a try too!
Not that I started talking while moving my hands, rolling up my pants or acting like a cock at Pitti Uomo.
Since my Navigo pass does not allow me to go to Florence, I decided to take the Paris metro and go to Boggi , on the Grands Boulevards.
The owners do not lack humor: the store is located on Boulevard des Italians, in Paris.
In a Boggi store...
In this boutique, a 100% Italian team offers costumes assembled in Italy, by Italian artisans, in materials from prestigious Italian manufacturers. (note for later: advise them to open a Place d’Italie flagship store) .
In front of the store, Thomas welcomes me and shows me around this museo di eleganza italiana .
On the ground floor, behind the enticing windows facing the street, I find the piles of formal shirts and clusters of ties accessible to men in a hurry.
On the first floor, I discover the exhibition of "weekend" outfits with a selection of beautiful casual shirts and sportswear jackets , many models of which feature Neapolitan shoulders called "spalla camicia" (i.e. without padding, the famous "padding").
- a shorter jacket length because worn mismatched,
- a color chart that goes beyond gray and blue,
- more original textures and materials, as well as special details like patch pockets .
Boggi's "casual" clothing offering seems particularly well stocked to me! Indeed, although this floor corresponds to more casual outfits, the fabrics used come from prestigious houses like Vitale Barberis Canonico or Loro Piana (the cream of the crop in terms of Italian spinning).
I take advantage of the lounge located on the first floor to speak with Thomas about the brand (see interview at the end of the article).
To discover the space reserved for classic suits , go to the basement where there are a succession of rooms whose shelves contain formal ensembles. I go there, rushing down steps 4 to 4, eager to discover the range of business suits.
Full canvas, textured canvas, heat-sealed costumes: each of the small rooms has a costume theme. This is the space reserved for tuxedos.
I immediately asked Thomas to introduce me to the semi-canvassed range , because I know that it is what best meets my expectations - if there was still a need to remind me: semi-canvassed suits have the particularity of have a horsehair tailored canvas developed at the level of the bib.
Like fully canvassed models, for which the impact of the cost of labor makes the costume even more expensive, semi-canvassed suits have a drape and a lifespan that has nothing to do with cheap costumes. The fabrics of the latter are reinforced with an iron-on lining.
I ask Thomas for details on the semi-canvassed model displayed on the mannequin, because the fabric catches my eye.
Note from Benoît: in my opinion, after having visited the Florentine store for a long time, Boggi is very competitive on the following pieces :
- shirts: lots of choice in materials and textures, they notably make cotton pique polo shirts that are very comfortable thanks to the elasticity of the material (this is perfect for strong men). Please note: these are very flared Italian collars (personally, I love them) which have incomparable class with or without a tie. The prices are really reasonable, there are plenty of shirts for less than €100. If you're a little tired of poplin or oxford, Boggi is the place to go!
- casual blazers: here too, we are delighted to see so many different colors and textures.
- the accessories: very nice, great taste in the choice of tie materials.
- finally, Italian influence obliges, there are a lot of colors on all the pieces. It can only do you good to get out of gray and navy blue!
In short, if you want an elegant and relaxed wardrobe , with easy and colorful pieces at very reasonable prices, Boggi is definitely an essential address!
Test of the Boggi Prince of Wales wool suit
A surprising material
From a distance, it looks like a sort of electric blue (I'm wearing Aviator glasses from Randolph Engineering).
Up close, we can appreciate the play of textures between the jacket and the knitted silk tie (Ly Adams). Regarding the geometric lines, I opted for a contrast between the rounded club collar (La Comédie Humaine shirt) and the notched lapel of the jacket.
Beyond the pattern and the color, there are other criteria which explain my enthusiasm for this model, such as the flexibility and lightness of the material .
There is no doubt as to the origin of this quality of textile: it is the trademark of renowned Italian spinning mills , here the Drago house located in the legendary town of Bielle .
With three interior pockets and a black lining , I find the level of finish acceptable , but I regret that my phone does not fit in the pocket which is below the bend line.
I wear a belt that comes from an Argentinian "cuerería", and I use a phone that matches my pouch.
An ideal suit cut
If I had to remember just one thing that explains my favorite: it would be the cut and the perfect fit of the suit.
As for the drape, the semi-interlining is undoubtedly an essential element, without which the garment would not have such a hold.
The impact of the tailored canvas on the fit of the jacket can be appreciated in particular in the fluidity of the front part of the jacket, when it is open. Second characteristic point: the backhand roll is round and bouncy, rather than protruding and pinched.
But it's not just the interlining method that explains why this suit fits me like a glove! Although I have tried lots of ready-to-wear suits, there are few size 46 suits that fit me as well as this one and without any alterations (both on the jacket and the pants).
I'm wearing Oxfords that I bought from a shoemaker in Florence.
The criteria for choosing a costume
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Shoulders
The seam matches perfectly: it is exactly where the shoulder breaks, and not above the gap located in its extension.
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Bending the jacket
From the front, the sides of the jacket form a nice curve, without creating breaking folds. From the back, the jacket follows the arch, without touching the buttocks.
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The lapel placed on the chest
On the right, an illustration of the "lapel that comes off the chest" effect, jacket closed. In this case, the lapel is perfectly placed on the bust in the same conditions on the left.
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Sleeve length
For the record, there must always be 1 centimeter of shirt sleeve protruding when the arm is held alongside the body. Arms crossed as above, the shirt appears a little more and reveals the watch (Enclave Mfg model).
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The other criteria
If you want to know more about the criteria for choosing a suit, find the suit guide , the blazer guide , and the wedding suit guide that I wrote for BonneGueule (if you have already read them, it will not hurt you to revise your scales) 😉
The finishing touches of the Boggi suit
The sleeves have real openings, unlike the multitude of false sleeve openings that can be found in ready-to-wear.
The finishes of the pants are very clean: braid at the end of the fabric (rather than a coarse overlock stitch), double buttoned closure with a capuchin (triangle) button placket, reinforcement stitch on the pockets.
The piped pockets with flaps are reinforced with a triangle stitch.
For 650 euros, this level of quality of fabric, construction and finishing, this suit represents an excellent opportunity. Especially since, if you don't want to order directly from the brand's website, you can try on the costumes in store.
The interview with Thomas, salesman at Boggi
Romain: Can you introduce me to Boggi?
Thomas: Boggi e marchio, contemporaneo, a la portata di tutti.
Well, OK, I see you don't understand any Italian. I'll do it again in French: it's a modern, classic, and contemporary brand, accessible to everyone!
For the record, the three Zaccardi brothers bought Boggi in 2003 from Mr. Paolo Boggi. At the time, Boggi made classic suits like today, but it was much more expensive.
These 3 brothers, who worked in ready-to-wear and notably owned the Brian & Barry brand, said to themselves that they were going to revisit Boggi. Their objective was to lower prices, while maintaining quality and made in Italy manufacturing, in order to address customers who could not afford to go to Corneliani, Zegna or Loro Piana .
Romain: Exactly, what do you offer your customers?
Thomas: Today, men are much more demanding . They know the criteria that make a beautiful suit. So they want canvased, or semi-canvassed, models , cut from Italian fabrics, but with an affordable price .
We offer them all this, at a price two to three times lower than equivalent offers from other Italian houses.
Romain: How did the Zaccardi brothers manage to place Boggi between entry-level and luxury ready-to-wear?
Thomas: Their know-how comes from their experience with Brian & Barry , a brand for which they learned to master all stages of the production of high-end clothing, made in Italy.
To lower the prices of Boggi suits, they concluded deals with their suppliers; based on large productions and the economies of scale that can result.
Romain: But then, since we are talking about the same manufacturing sector, what is the difference between Brian & Barry and Boggi ?
Thomas: Brian & Barry is a very well-known brand in Italy, but almost not in France. This brand offers a range of suits that I would describe as "extroverted", a bit like the Dutch SuitSupply (which has it manufactured in China).
Unlike the two previous brands, Boggi offers Italian elegance in its most classic and timeless form , without frills and at the best price.
Boggi is also not a “fashionable” brand that offers sophisticated looks with hooded sweaters worn under jackets. Even if Boggi has a more casual sportswear brand (which is called BM 39), we are generally staying with an elegant range, which we will not see go out of fashion.
Romain: What awaits us next season?
Thomas: I can't tell you too much about the work of our stylists who are developing future collections because it is a professional secret. But since you insist, know that the year 2016 will see the return of white and green, which will become the “new blue”. As for 2017, you can brush yourself!
Ciao Romain.
