The Neapolitan jacket: its characteristics and origins
It's the arrival of sunny days, and as is often the case, any man who takes care of his image and his appearance asks himself the following question: how to dress lightly , wear comfortable clothes while remaining elegant and natural?
If we consider that the blazer jacket constitutes one of the key and iconic pieces of the men's wardrobe , where should we go to find the right outfit and unearth that rare gem? The answer is beyond doubt: among our transalpine neighbors, the Italians. The very ones that combine so well this subtle and natural blend of chic and casual that we often talk about: “ sprezzatura ” (which literally means “nonchalance” in Italian).
This gentleman clearly highlights the freedom of movement and the nonchalant appearance that this type of soft-shouldered jacket gives. Credits: The 21st.
This is therefore the opportunity to talk about the garment which represents par excellence this “neglected, negligent” spirit so present in them, and which every elegant man envies: the Neapolitan jacket . Taking its name from a mounting technique originally designed by Naples tailors, this piece is characterized by a very light shoulder pad, or even a total absence of padding (padding at shoulder level).
This process gives the wearer a look that is both natural and dressy , quite sophisticated when combined with the right accessories (my advice on this subject a little further down). The feeling of ease is immediate: fitting your shoulder perfectly, you will wear it almost like a shirt, and you will feel freer in your movements and your approach.
How to wear the Neapolitan jacket?
Due to its natural fit, this jacket goes ideally with all raw and natural materials . You will find it in cotton or linen; with, as far as I am concerned, a preference for the linen/cotton blend (for its lightness and perfect drape).
In addition, it supports almost all combinations of looks , from the most dressed to the most casual. This is its great strength! You can choose it according to your desires and circumstances, whether as a costume or for mismatched wear.
Wearing a suit with a Neapolitan shoulder allows you to combine a formal, conventional outfit with a “chic-sportswear” spirit.
Arthur & Fox costume.
However, in my opinion, it is with a mismatched wear that we really take advantage of the casual spirit of the piece, namely when we combine the Neapolitan jacket with pants in another fabric.
With a casually tied knitted tie.
A Neapolitan jacket goes perfectly with jeans and a plain white, blue or pastel tones shirt . It can also be worn with chinos in colorful tones for the more intrepid among you, or with a light flannel for a more dressy outfit, but still natural and elegant.
Angelo Nardelli jacket, Monoprix linen shirt, Breuer clutch and Massimo Dutti chinos.
Where to find a Neapolitan jacket and for what price?
Happy news: acquiring a Neapolitan shoulder jacket does not cost significantly more than another more classic and common jacket with padding. And you don't have to fly to Naples or Rome either (although that would be the perfect opportunity!).
You can find a beautiful Neapolitan jacket in cotton or linen/cotton in France, around €300/€400 , from very good French brands like J-Keydge (called the “slack jacket” by them) or Italian brands like Fradi , which opened a store in Paris at the end of 2014.
I have also just discovered a Spanish brand: Lander URQUIJO , which offers superb Neapolitan shoulder jackets, with very carefully designed characteristics and proportions: two-button jacket , slightly slanted ticket pocket and two fairly high back slits .
These 3 brands (among others) in any case offer the attributes sought after when purchasing clothing: quality fabric, mastered tailoring and well-placed price positioning. In short, sure values that will enhance your wardrobe in the same way as a beautiful pair of shoes.
An elegant, yet simple and casual outfit.
Credits: Trashness.
To find jackets at even more affordable prices (between €200 and €300) and very good fabric and assembly quality, direct your searches to SuitSupply , which offers a wide variety of well-made models (in linen, hemp/ wool or cotton/linen).
Note from Benoît: Cadot also offers two very good light jackets , in Vitale Barberis wool, at a great price. And finally, for those on a budget, it’s impossible to miss eclectic and its fully canvased jackets.
Also note that Massimo Dutti , Zara's more high-end brand, is a good alternative to discover the pleasure of the Neapolitan shoulder for less than €150 . You will be surprised by the models from their new collection in bright colors which I find, at this price, rather successful.
Finally, to find a beautiful suit with Neapolitan shoulders, pop into an Arthur & Fox or Crémieux boutique, which sell mid-season suits for around €800.
How to choose your Neapolitan jacket?
To guide you in your purchase, here are some tips and selection criteria that will help you make the most of all the qualities of this piece:
- If possible, choose it fairly fitted and close to the body , to preserve the natural spirit that characterizes it.
Among these men present at Pitti Uomo, we can clearly see the beautiful result that a Neapolitan shoulder jacket can have, when chosen with the right fit. Credits: Trashness.
- Enhance your jacket with a pocket (in linen or cotton, plain or patterned) to accentuate the “sprezzatura” side. With jeans or chinos, the effect is guaranteed.
A J-Keydge jacket (ACE model), which also forms a completely coherent casual outfit with jeans and a clutch.
- Prefer, in a mismatched version, a model with a patch pocket without a flap (more consistent with the casual, less classic aspect of the product).
A Fradi suit jacket with patch pockets, worn mismatched with ecru pants.
- Without hesitation, opt for the double slit version in the back (rather than just one). This is the most common version, as it is by far the most comfortable for slipping your hands into your pockets. It is also the most elegant , because it gives a certain harmony between the natural curve of the jacket and the line of the pelvis.
The two slots give more freedom and comfort.
Finally, know that if you want to face a few morning frosts in April or September, you can easily combine it with a sleeveless down jacket, which will further enhance the natural shoulder of your jacket. On this subject, I invite you to (re)read Benoît's excellent test on this piece , which will complement your Neapolitan jacket so well.
Note that this gentleman even thought of putting his clutch in the chest pocket of his sleeveless down jacket, instead of being able to display it in the pocket of his jacket. Not stupid !
Conclusion: my opinion on the Neapolitan jacket
All in all, it is a very versatile piece, which has no particular drawback.
Certainly, this is the kind of garment that will be even more suitable for a man with slightly square shoulders , since it will follow the lines and highlight them. However, whatever your build and body shape , the shoulder fit is so natural and soft that it will reduce your (minimal) build imperfections. It is therefore suitable for everyone!
Finally, and this is still good news, you can also put on your Neapolitan shoulder jacket or slack jacket in autumn and winter! Flannel, cashmere, “milleraie” velvet or even moleskin are all materials that will allow you to brave cold days, with an elegance and studied casualness that many will envy; among your loved ones as well as in your workplace!
Not forgetting our own jackets and blazers...
A whole collection of jackets cut from the fabrics of the most beautiful Italian Houses: Ferla, Loro Piana, Botto, Maggia, or even Vitale Barberis Canonico.
