If I say to you: “ Naples” , it brings to mind pizza, mozzarella, even Maradona (for connoisseurs).
The former royal city has managed to keep its craftsmanship alive and has historical know-how in clothing and leather goods . Workshops are easy to find in tourist streets, as if to exhibit this pride. There isn't a building in which we don't sew!
According to Hugo Jacomet of Parisian Gentleman , Naples is one of the three world capitals of masculine elegance , with Paris and London. A great recognition!
When you know the Neapolitan style, this cannot be unjustified: the freedom and lightness in the outfits is more of a savoir-vivre that is conveyed on a daily basis , a living manifesto through the language of clothing. Naples has its sartorial heritage from a long history with its artisan tailors. From the 19th century, tailors were very present there : there were already nearly 2,400 in 1810, then 3,040 in 1845.
At that time, the Neapolitan nobility were crazy about what was being done abroad, particularly in Paris and London, when it came to fashion. Gradually, Naples developed its own conception of elegance : the cut, the textures and the colors (the emblematic cobalt blue) form a whole which leaves room for controlled nonchalance , the famous " sprezzatura" .
The Rubinacci House
The incredible Rubinacci boutique in Naples.
I wanted to talk to you about this House, which represents one of the greatest figures of the excellence of Neapolitan know-how , since a certain Gennaro Rubinacci, follower of the royal courts, invented the famous Neapolitan jacket at the beginning of the Twentieth century.
Luca Rubinacci, the last descendant of the family, wore a completely unstructured jacket during Pitti Uomo 88.
Its lightness, great freedom of movement and traditional finishes have made this piece a great success. It was one of the first light jackets perfectly suited for summer use (yes, in Naples, it's hot!). As Luca Rubinacci, descendant of the family, says: “a tailor is above all a psychologist”.
A Neapolitan jacket generally includes a particular shoulder assembly, and it has very little padding at the shoulders (the "padding"). A shoulder is said to be “natural” when it perfectly matches the wearer’s lines. The cut of the jacket is fitted or fitted, and it contains a barchetta pocket (shaped like a small boat) on the chest, on the heart side.
On this subject, we also interviewed Luca Rubinacci, during Pitti Uomo 88 .
Now let’s get to the heart of the matter!
Interview with Sadri and Julien, founders of Zampa di Gallina
Before moving on to reporting on these artisans who were kind enough to receive us and explain their products to us, we are going to (re)present Zampa di Gallina , thanks to a short interview carried out in the streets of Naples . Yes, because to discover these artisans, we needed guides, and who better than two enthusiasts: Sadri and Julien , to lead us directly to Neapolitan know-how?
In this video they explain why they chose Naples and the know-how that the city contains.
Interview with Roberto and Enzo Ciardi, from Sartoria Ciardi
Sadri de Zampa di Gallina and Il Maestro Renato Ciardi, founder of Sartoria Ciardi (which has retained ultimate elegance).
Renato Ciardi , founder of this iconic Sartoria, is a very respected man in Naples. Everyone nicknames him "O'Mast" (the master) because he is considered one of the greatest Neapolitan tailors . Angelo Blasi, his master and great Neapolitan tailor, said of Renato that he considered him his worthy heir and spiritual son. Just that !
The Ciardi family skillfully cultivates the Neapolitan spirit down to the smallest detail. Their jackets are so well cut that the Neapolitans say of them “non me la sento addosso”, which could be translated as “I don’t even feel it on my back” . A second skin that highlights the natural shapes and follows the owner's slightest movements.
Even up close, you can see the flexibility of the Neapolitan shoulder of a Ciardi jacket. Credits: Zampa Di Gallina
As a reminder, unstructured jackets are commonplace in Naples, in order to remain elegant even under the blazing sun. We combine practicality with aesthetics!
The sleeves of Ciardi jackets are generally unfinished, to leave it up to the wearer to touch them up if they feel like it. The lightness of the piece, the natural shoulder, its spalla camicia assembly (sleeve fitted like a shirt to reveal gathers): everything was designed to embrace the Neapolitan soul in its natural fluidity, comfort and nonchalance.
Enzo and Roberto Ciardi, Renato's two sons, are ready to continue the legacy their father passed on to them in the craftsmanship of Neapolitan jackets and suits. They tell you the history of Sartoria in this video, and explain how to recognize a Neapolitan jacket .
Find the selection of jackets from Sartoria Ciardi .
Interview with Fracesco Noviello, co-founder of Fratelli Noviello
If the English influence on the Italian style is rather an open secret, its encounter with the Neapolitan style is no less devoid of elegance. In any case, this is what the Noviello family tried to demonstrate.
The brothers Francesco and Giuseppe Noviello , specialized in men's luggage, offer elegant products using the best possible materials, while taking advantage of the numerous know-how of their region (Naples has historical know-how in leather working).
We clearly feel the two brothers' interest in sartorial art. We find materials usually used on suits such as wool or cashmere . They look for the fabric where it is best made, that is to say in Biella (in Italy) or in England. As for the leather, they chose Tuscan leathers, renowned worldwide for the quality of their skins.
In this interview, Francesco Noviello tells you the history of the brand, and explains to us how to recognize a quality bag. We will also take a quick trip to their typically Neapolitan workshop .
Also find the Fratelli Noviello bags right here .
In the second part of the report in Naples, we will take you to one of the oldest master glove makers in Naples , who will explain the steps of making a glove.
And of course, we couldn't leave Naples without stopping by a high-end shirt manufacturer. I won’t tell you any more 😉
