To avoid missteps, check the following:
1
You should be able to fit your fist between your chest and the top button of your jacket.
2
The shoulders must break cleanly and angularly: no folds, and a seam at the top of the sleeve right where your shoulder naturally breaks.
3
Check that you do not have excess material in the armpits and back (no unnecessary folds).
4
The correct length of pants cannot be improvised: the fabric should only form a single break above the shoe. No more.
It must be made of natural fibers (cotton, wool, silk, cashmere, etc.).
Synthetic fibers do not breathe and age poorly (fibers containing polyester will start to shine on the buttocks and elbows). Avoid anything that isn't 100% natural for a costume.
Some fabrics are much more famous than others, because they are made by iconic weavers with very specific know-how .
The most famous are British : Harrison of Edinburgh, Porter & Harding or Holland & Sherry, or Italian : Zegna, Loro Piana or Vitale Barberis Canonico. That said, they include different ranges with sometimes varying qualities.
Tradition recommends that the jacket, jacket and pants be made from the same fabric, but the jacket can be made of a different material for greater originality (in silk for example).
Which assembly to choose?
Heat-sealed jacket
The fabrics are glued together, one to the other, using a plastic that is heated.
It's ugly because everything is welded together, it ages poorly (blisters that form over time and following dry cleaning), and this plastic membrane makes you sweat. For less than €300, it's impossible to find anything other than heat-sealed.
Semi-canvassed jacket
The bib is assembled via seams (or "free assembly"), and only the bottom of the jacket and certain details use heat-sealing.
This allows you to have a good result without exploding the price of the costume.
Canvas jacket
The jacket is 100% free assembled.
This assembly requires a lot of work, but guarantees appearance and longevity to your jacket.
The characteristics of your costume
Double-breasted or straight, single or double-breasted, the suit jacket is available with numerous characteristics which must adapt to your tastes, your body shape, and the degree of formality sought:
Collars and lapels
They can be more or less wide, depending on the width of your own bust and the desired effect. Just avoid extreme contrasts (slender bust, huge lapels... or the opposite). Here are the most common:
Notched lapels
It's the simplest collar to wear, and the most versatile too.
Pointed lapels
A little more daring than its notched counterpart, it is more or less common depending on trends.
Shawl collar
It differs from the previous two by its continuous line. Its wearing is particularly suitable for dressy evenings.
Pockets
- Welt pockets with flaps : these are the most common. No mistakes possible with them.
- Piped pockets without flaps : a bit more relaxed. On the other hand, if they deform and settle, it will be visible.
- You can also find jackets with a third pocket on the right side of the jacket . This is a ticket pocket , also called a “Derby pocket” .
- Patch pockets : instead of having a simple slit, the pocket is attached to the outside of the suit. It's very nice on a blazer or a suit intended to be very casual (why not), but unsuitable for formal wear.
Shoulders
The Neapolitan (or natural) shoulder
It follows the lines of your body (“Italian” style). It sometimes has little or no padding.
The classic shoulder
With moderate padding.
The Roman (or oversized) shoulder
It includes padding (called “padding”) which will further mark the lines of your body.
Less varied, the pants can be straight, pleated or cigarette (very fitted, without molding the legs). Original, lapels (hems) can be a very good option for a little old school look!
Small history of costume
It designates the combination of a jacket and pants, made from the same fabric and requiring tailoring know-how. When a vest accompanies the ensemble, we speak of a “complete” or three-piece suit.
The origins of the two-piece suit appeared in the 17th century; when leotards, breeches and vests matched by color. However, it was not until the middle of the 19th century that the two-piece suit we know today appeared in England.
How to choose the right fabric?