For the second part of this great comparison of shirts under 90 euros , we focus on dress shirts with a modern look. On the program, Italian style with Suitsupply , Boggi and Lanieri, and French sobriety with Giotho.
Suitsupply - “Purple Line” range: checked flannel shirt
A shirt at €79, located on the average basket of our comparison.
The basis: the material
A very beautiful flannel from Tessitura Monti, whose reputation is well established. Thick, pleasant to the touch, and very warm, it is therefore ideal for winter.
The "check" pattern is made up of light gray, pale blue and white stripes, giving the shirt a very soft overall color.
Beautiful checks on a soft flannel.
The hand is quite “nervous” , that is to say that the shirt tends to regain its shape more easily when handled. It will therefore crease less quickly.
Cutting and sizing side
We are on the “Slim Fit” cut of Suitsupply, which is their standard cut. In terms of size, it is a classic 38, unlike the jackets which tend to be very large at home.
I particularly like the work on the armhole : placed high enough, the shirt moves very little when the arm is raised, while maintaining ease at the back of the shoulder so as not to lose comfort or freedom of movement.
A cut that suits me rather well.
For me, it's a slim-fit silhouette that's perfectly within the norm: a little narrower than a fitted cut, but not by much. More designed for normal to athletic silhouettes.
What about the manufacturing, finishing and details?
A Macedonian confection, generally good for the price.
Some points are a little weaker than the average of the comparison but this is also explained by more expensive material and other details that counterbalance .
Collar and cuffs
- Hold: a very good balance between flexibility and rigidity, which I really appreciate. The collar is not cardboardy and “cracks” only a little, while holding up very well. However, we regret the absence of collar stays, replaced by a thin layer of additional iron-on adhesive at this location.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!
- Trimming of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: straight. Fairly close to the edge but you can still pinch the excess on the cuffs.
This collar has a very harmonious fall.
Fineness of the confection
- Protruding threads: few.
- Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, very regular. Bonus: the appreciable English seams on the sleeves and sides!
- Armhole alignment: all good.
- Shirt bottom hem: fine and regular.
- Buttonholes: clean but lacking a little body and relief compared to those of other participants.
Details
- Buttons: thick plastic imitation mother-of-pearl, sewn parallel. We appreciate the presence of a reinforcement tail which ensures greater longevity.
- Reinforcement swallows: none.
- Aligned patterns: Not everywhere. The front is well done, and that's the main thing. But we could quibble about the back, for example. This can be noticed on large patterns like these.
- Throat: simple.
Nothing major here, but on a higher priced shirt you might expect a aligned back.
Style and appearance
True to the spirit of Italian tailoring in recent years, Suitsupply offers this model in a cutaway collar. Despite the recent rise of this collar shape, it remains less common than the classic French or Italian collars. A good way to introduce variety into your shirts , then.
The style of this shirt is of course based on the choice of pattern: its checks make it fit into a “casual tailoring” register, and this stylistic audacity is tempered by the softness of the colors that compose them.
How to wear it?
This shirt is rather intended for a fairly specific style "niche" : Italian "sport" tailoring.
Its cutaway collar makes it too dressy to wear with a jacket or sweater, but its patterns are too casual for it to serve as a "formal" shirt, like the kind you'd wear with your work suits, for example.
On the other hand, it is ideal to be worn with a blazer or a suit with a "sport" look, as we see everywhere on the looks of the Suitsupply shop.
( Grey BonneGueule jeans , Atelier Particulier belt, BonneGueule x LouisPurple blazer, NDC Made By Hand boots.)
Brand and customer experience
It's no secret that Suitsupply's customer experience is one of its biggest strengths.
Between a really efficient and pleasant site, top-notch shipping conditions (packaging, returns & exchanges at the brand's expense with a return slip already included in the order), responsive customer service to advise you, and a very wide choice in each collection, everyone should find what they are looking for.
Boggi Milano - “Business” line: dress shirt in blue dobby
A shirt for €75, located on the average basket of our comparison.
The basis: the material
A light blue cotton-linen dobby (96% - 4%), the patterns of which are formed by blue and white threads.
The hand is quite pleasant : you can feel the slight roughness of the linen, while keeping an overall suppleness and softness on the material. The thickness is in the high average of what you would expect on a formal summer shirt.
An original dobby pattern.
The thickness helps keep some stability in the fabric (useful to prevent the shirt from wrinkling). In fact, the airy weave and small percentage of linen compensate for this thickness to allow the shirt to remain wearable in warmer weather.
The material has a nice light catch and the linen content brings a bit of irregularity and grain, giving it a natural look despite the pattern, especially when looking at the shirt from further away.
Cutting and sizing side
Tailored fit, which is Boggi's intermediate cut, fitted without being really slim.
It is as expected, well cut and no surprises in terms of sizing: it is a very standard 38.
The bottom of the shirt is long enough to be worn tucked into trousers, in a formal manner.
It is designed, in my opinion, for a “standard” body type.
A slightly fitted cut, more suited to an “average” physique.
What about the manufacturing, finishing and details?
Overall, a very good Chinese confection for the price . So see in detail...
Collar and cuffs
- Hold: thick and rigid, in accordance with the formal use you will make of it. Too cardboard however, the collar lacks flexibility and “cracks” too much when folded. We also regret the “integrated” whales which can end up damaging it in the long term, and cannot be changed if they become deformed .
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: no problem on this side.
- Trimming of cuffs, collar and collar stand: straight and very close to the seam.
Fineness of the confection
- Protruding threads: few.
- Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, very regular. Bonus: the appreciable English seams on the sleeves and sides here too!
- Armhole alignment: all good.
- Shirt bottom hem: fine and regular.
- Buttonholes: well made, well cleaned.
Well-made English seams.
Details
- Buttons: thick plastic, imitation mother-of-pearl. No reinforcement tail. Sewn parallel. Nothing special, then.
- Reinforcement swallows: rounded in shape. Well made.
- Patterns aligned with each other: correct.
- Throat: simple, lined with a thin iron-on for support. Useful for giving more support to a formal shirt that will be subject to twisting and rubbing in the pants.
This thin layer of iron-on adhesive in the throat allows the shirt to hold up better when worn tucked into pants.
Style and appearance
I really like the texture brought by this woven micro-pattern, which is a little original while remaining consistent with the elegant style for which the shirt is intended.
The choice of the Windsor collar, very classic, balances the originality of the patterns well .
A small interesting detail that reinforces the “classic” side of the shirt: the edges of the cuffs and the collar are stitched quite far from the edge, leaving a small fold of fabric that creates a raised border.
The darts on the upper back and the well-marked double pleats on the cuffs reinforce the tailoring DNA of the shirt.
How to wear it?
With a suit, or a blazer . Accessorize your outfit enough to stay consistent with the style of this shirt!
A shirt that is well suited to a more formal outfit! (Meermin double buckles, BonneGueule chinos , BonneGueule x LouisPurple blazer , Atelier Particulier belt, Boggi shirt)
Brand and customer experience
Given the brand's communication, which is very focused on made in Italy , I was surprised not to see, on the label, at least a European confection...
A made in China! The level of which is very honorable, as you can see above, but it is a surprise that we discover when opening the package.
This is really the kind of information on which we would like more transparency , and nothing was indicated on this subject on the brand's shop.
No information on the origin of the materials, nor the suppliers. This does not mean that the material is bad, but we are all keen to have more traceability on this subject, it would allow us to better contextualize the price.
A site that could really be improved for a brand of this size, and which is not always translated, or visibly with Google Translate...
And customer service that is not necessarily easy to reach.
Giotho: White twill dress shirt
A shirt at €79, located on the average basket of our comparison.
The basis: the material
A classic white twill of European manufacture : medium weight, tight weave. Suitable for most seasons of the year, but to be avoided when it is a little warm.
A very classic white twill.
It is a double-twisted fabric, which gives it a nice liveliness: combined with the usual properties of twill, the material does not crease too much.
The hand is also rather soft and pleasant.
Cutting and sizing side
A well-fitting and nicely designed cut, but which seems to me more suited to smaller builds .
By small build, I don't necessarily mean small height, but someone who would have a slightly narrow shoulder width compared to the rest of their physique.
A clean cut, but too narrow at the shoulders for me.
It is therefore very uncomfortable for me in size 38: I am compressed at the shoulders, armpits, arms, back... But it is nevertheless the right neck size (essential for a shirt that will be worn with a tie!).
What about the manufacturing, finishing and details?
A beautiful confection made in Lithuania, with some rare details at this price .
Collar and cuffs
- Hold: collar and cuffs are well held, but the iron-on collar is a bit too cardboardy and “cracks” a little. Special mention, however, for the “rib stitch”: this term is used when the seam of the shirt collar is very close to the edge. The operation is a little more difficult to perform and the result is more refined.
A beautiful "rib stitch", appreciated on dress shirts to refine the appearance of the collar.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!
- Trimming of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: very good on the collar, very regular but with a little excess fabric at the cuffs.
Fineness of the confection
- Protruding threads: few.
- Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, the good standard for this price range. Beautiful, very fine English seams as a bonus.
- Armhole alignment: all good.
- Shirt bottom hem: perfect. Fine and regular, it's a nice hem.
- Buttonholes: They are pretty! Nice relief, nice density, clean! The buttonholes on the hidden button down could however be curved to make buttoning easier.
A well-made buttonhole.
Details
- Buttons: imitation mother-of-pearl plastic, without reinforcement tail.
- Reinforcement swallows: rounded in shape. Just right because they are not quite clear, nor identical on both sides.
- Throat: simple.
Style and appearance
This is probably the most classic example of our entire comparison. A white twill shirt, with a very intermediate collar, both in terms of size and opening. There is not much to add: it is a piece that has proven itself for a long time.
However, we all need one (or even several) shirts like these, versatile and ideal for the office. Pure basics, therefore, but which do the job.
We still note the small hidden button-down which is intended to make it more wearable, even with the first buttons open. Practical if you have few shirts and you want to use it as much casual as formal.
How to wear it?
In principle, it is a fairly versatile shirt due to its simplicity, so no contraindications. That said, I find it more advantageous in a formal outfit.
(Haikure pants, Atelier Particulier tie, Meermin double buckles)
Brand and customer experience
Overall, everything went smoothly.
I had some difficulty finding out how to contact customer service and had to go through the Facebook page.
On a more personal level, I also think that the brand's selection would benefit from taking a few more risks and offering less basic and less classic shirts, particularly in the casual category, even if it means making a few fewer striped models or white shirts.
Lanieri - Half-measure: White Oxford dress shirt
A half-measure shirt for €81, which is rather at the top of the range in our comparison.
The basis: the material
A beautiful white oxford from Ibieffe, a little-known Italian spinning mill.
Due to its dense and tight weave, the material reflects a lot of light and shines very slightly, which gives it a slightly more “precious” appearance than that generally associated with the classic, rather casual Oxford.
A very regular and bright oxford white, which is not incompatible with a formal look.
The texture is visually very regular.
The hand is quite soft, but slightly “dry” as is often the case with oxfords: it will not slide on your skin as a fine poplin would, for example.
On the other hand, for a sturdy fabric like this, the shirt remains very breathable and creases little.
Cutting and sizing side
At the first fitting, the shirt was clearly too large at the hips and back. It seems that Lanieri's algorithm prefers to plan a little large , even if it means you have to make an alteration later if it makes a mistake.
After retouching, the fit is already better and quite wearable. Fitted but comfortable, good lengths…
A fit that generally corresponds to my expectations and my body shape, but it would have taken a final alteration for ease, because the armholes are too low for me and the back a little narrow.
However, it still has room for improvement and might have needed a third touch-up to really suit me.
The armhole is too low, and the back lacks a bit of structure. These two elements combined limit the movement of the arm quite a bit.
I could have asked for more touch-ups to refine the result (the brand would do it without a problem), but we were short of time. I will certainly have to correct this aspect on my future orders.
Remember that a half-measure pattern improves with each return you make to the brand , until it fits you perfectly!
What about the manufacturing, finishing and details?
A very convincing Italian confection , especially when you take into account the price and the fact that it is custom-made! This is one of Lanieri's big arguments: producing in a country where the workforce is recognized and still expensive, while offering such prices.
However, it does have a few minor flaws, which seem to me to be inevitable concessions in the prices charged.
Collar and cuffs
- Hold: an important element for me, the Italians really know how to make beautiful collars. Flexible and rigid at the same time, the iron-on does not crack at all and… miracle! When the shirt is open, the collar keeps a nice drape on the wearer. This is not the case for all the shirts in this comparison.
A collar that doesn't crush when open.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: a very slight asymmetry on the collar. It's a matter of 2mm, a bit of a shame given the success of the work on his outfit.
- Thinning of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: a bit thick at the cuff, but very regular. A bit coarse on the edge of the collar, however. A fairly important point here, because it is more visible on a white shirt.
Fineness of the confection
- Protruding threads: few.
- Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, a good standard at this price. Beautiful English seams as a bonus!
- Armhole alignment: all good.
- Shirt bottom hem: very regular.
- Buttonholes: nice density, nice relief, but they could be a little better “cleaned” and are not always completely open.
the buttonholes have a nice density but are not completely open.
Details
- Buttons: thick plastic, imitation mother-of-pearl. No reinforcement tail. Sewn parallel. Nothing special, then.
- Reinforcement swallows: rounded in shape. Well made.
- Patterns aligned with each other: correct.
- Throat: simple, lined with a thin iron-on adhesive for support. Useful for giving more support to a formal shirt that will be subject to twisting and rubbing in the pants.
Style and appearance
Since this is a half-measure, I obviously chose the configuration of this shirt myself. Therefore, let's explain my approach a little.
On the Lanieri configurator, I first chose a fabric. I chose this material because it seemed perfect to me to have an elegant shirt, which creases little but breathes enough to be worn even in warmer weather .
I also like its very regular oxford pattern, offering some texture while remaining entirely compatible with formal attire.
To support this choice, I opted for a classic, slightly narrow collar, the size of which is designed to be highlighted by a jacket and tie.
Finally, for the rest, I chose to go for the simplest: rounded cuffs, imitation mother-of-pearl buttons, no placket, no breast pocket. I prefer refined formal shirts; less is more , right?
And, of course, no embroidery…
How to wear it?
It's a bit of a dressy shirt, so it's best worn with a blazer or suit, although it won't look out of place in a more casual outfit either!
( BonneGueule x Louis Purple blazer, BonneGueule chinos , Meermin double buckles, Atelier Particulier belt)
Brand and customer experience
One of Lanieri's big strengths for me.
The site has a fairly intuitive user experience (as intuitive as it can be for ordering a measurement online), and the step-by-step video tutorial for taking a measurement makes it much easier.
The algorithm analyzing your measurements is also efficient: try to enter measurements too far from what is statistically possible according to your other measurements, it will warn you that there is probably an error.
I also appreciate the highlighting of materials and their suppliers. It allows you to get a better idea of what you are paying for, the different price ranges, the quality of fabrics you can expect (if you know the suppliers)...
The welcome at the showroom (in Paris) by Riccardo is also excellent.
In short...
A quick recap of the strong points and areas for improvement on these four shirts!
The Suitsupply Flannel Shirt
Highlights
- A great material.
- A strong but successful style statement, which is less easily found in these price ranges.
- An exemplary customer experience.
- A very well thought out cut, particularly in terms of comfort.
Areas for improvement
- The buttonholes are a bit average.
- The absence of whales.
- The alignment of the patterns which is missing.
The Boggi dobby shirt
Highlights
- The rendering of the material.
- A real style statement, which is a change from some sometimes boring formal shirts.
- A good overall level of craftsmanship.
Areas for improvement
- A collar that is a little too cardboardy.
- Whales integrated into the collar.
- The alignment of the patterns which is missing.
- We would have liked to know a little more about the origin of the material.
- The somewhat ambiguous communication game on the place of manufacture.
- A truly improvable user experience online.
The Giotho twill shirt
Highlights
- A double twisted material.
- A more advanced than average tailoring in certain aspects: ribbed stitching at the collar, fine English seams, cleanliness, buttonholes.
- Could be a positive or negative, but this cut will suit smaller figures.
Areas for improvement
- The swallows and the stripping could be improved to reach the good level of the rest of the confection.
The Lanieri Oxford Shirt
Highlights
- The fall of the collar.
- Italian materials with presentation of the spinning mills.
- The user experience on the site (I enjoyed the video tutorial for taking measurements).
- The algorithm that warns you if you have entered measurements that are too improbable.
- Truly affordable custom-made shirts in a neighboring country.
Areas for improvement
- The slight asymmetry of the collar on my shirt.
- Lack of ease in the back after the first touch-up.
- The buttonholes that lack a little cleanliness.
See you next week for the third episode (and if necessary, here for the first ).
Until then, if you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments. We'll be happy to answer them!
