The Big Comparison #2: Testing Suitsupply, Boggi, Giotho and Lanieri shirts

For the second part of this big comparison of shirts under 90 euros , we are focusing on dress shirts with a modern look. On the program, Italian style with Suitsupply , Boggi and Lanieri, and French sobriety with Giotho.

Suitsupply - “Purple Line” range: checked flannel shirt

A shirt at €79, located on the average basket in our comparison.

The basis: the material

A very beautiful flannel from Tessitura Monti, whose reputation is well established. Thick, pleasant to the touch, and very warm, it is therefore ideal for winter.

The "checks" pattern is made up of light gray, pale blue and white stripes, giving the shirt a very soft overall color.

The hand is quite “nervous” , that is to say that the shirt tends to return to its shape more easily when handled. It will therefore crease less quickly.

Cut and sizing side

We are on Suitsupply’s “Slim Fit” cut, which is their standard cut. Size-wise, it's a classic 38, unlike their jackets which tend to run very large.

I particularly appreciate the work on the armhole : placed high enough, the shirt moves very little when the arm is raised, while maintaining ease at the back of the shoulder so as not to lose comfort, nor freedom of movement.

For me, it's a slim-fit silhouette that's completely within the norm: a little narrower than a fitted cut, but not by much. Rather designed for normal to athletic silhouettes.

What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?

A Macedonian confection, generally good for the price.

Some points are a little weaker than the comparison average but this is also explained by a more expensive material and other details which counterbalance .

Collar and cuffs

• Hold: a very good balance between flexibility and rigidity, which I really appreciate. The collar is not cardboard and only “creaks” a little, while still holding up very well. However, we regret the absence of collar stays, replaced by a thin layer of additional iron-on adhesive in this area.

• Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!

• Stripping of cuffs, collar and collar stand: straight. Quite close to the edge but you can still pinch the excess on the wrists.

Fine craftsmanship

• Threads sticking out: few.

• Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, very even. Bonus: the noticeable English seams on the sleeves and sides!

• Armhole alignment: everything is fine.

• Shirt bottom hem: thin and regular.

• Buttonholes: clean but lack a little body and relief compared to those of other participants.

Details

• Buttons: thick imitation mother-of-pearl plastic, parallel sewn. We appreciate the presence of a reinforcing tail which ensures greater longevity.

• Reinforcement swallows: without.

• Patterns aligned with each other: Not everywhere. The front is well done, and that's the main thing. But we could quibble about the back, for example. This can be noticed on large patterns like these.

• Throat: simple.

Style and appearance

Faithful to the spirit of Italian tailoring in recent years, Suitsupply offers this model in a cutaway collar. Despite the rise of this form of collar recently, it remains less common than classic French or Italian collars. A good way to introduce variety into your shirts , then.

The style of this shirt is of course based on the choice of pattern: its checks bring it into a “casual tailoring” register, and this stylistic boldness is tempered by the softness of the colors that compose them.

How to wear it?

This shirt is rather intended for a fairly specific style “niche” : Italian “sport” tailoring.

Its cutaway collar makes it too dressy to be worn with a jacket or sweater, but its patterns are too casual for it to serve as a "formal" shirt strictly speaking, the kind you would wear with your business suits. work for example.

On the other hand, it is ideal to be worn with a blazer or a suit with a "sporty" look, as we see everywhere on the looks in the Suitsupply shop.

Brand and customer experience

It's no secret: Suitsupply's customer experience is one of its biggest strengths.

Between a truly efficient and pleasant site, top-notch shipping conditions (packaging, returns & exchanges at the expense of the brand with return slip already included in the order), responsive customer service to advise you, and a very broad choice in each collection, there should be something for everyone.

Boggi Milano - “Business” line: blue dobby dress shirt

A shirt for €75, located on the average basket in our comparison.

The basis: the material

A light blue cotton-linen dobby (96% - 4%), whose patterns are formed by blue and white threads.

The hand feels quite pleasant : you can feel the slight roughness of the linen, while maintaining an overall suppleness and softness to the material. The thickness is in the high-average range of what you would expect on a formal summer shirt.

The thickness helps maintain a certain stability in the fabric (useful to prevent the shirt from wrinkling). Moreover, the airy weave and the small percentage of linen compensate for this thickness to allow the shirt to remain wearable in warmer weather.

The material has a nice light catchment and the linen content brings a little irregularity and grain, giving it a natural appearance despite the pattern, especially when you look at the shirt from afar.

Cut and sizing side

Tailored fit cut, which is Boggi's intermediate cut, fitted without being really slim.

It conforms to what one would expect, well cut and with no surprises for the sizing: it's a 38 as standard as possible.

The bottom of the shirt is long enough to be worn tucked into the pants, in a formal manner.

It is designed, in my opinion, for a “standard” body shape.

What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?

Overall, a very good Chinese confection for the price . See in detail...

Collar and cuffs

• Hold: thick and rigid, in accordance with the formal use you will make of it. Too cardboardy, however, the collar lacks flexibility and “cracks” too much when folded. We also regret the “integrated” whales which can end up damaging it in the long term, and cannot be changed if they become deformed .

• Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: no worries there.

• Stripping of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: straight and very close to the seam.

Fine craftsmanship

• Threads sticking out: few.

• Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, very even. Bonus: the appreciable English seams on the sleeves and sides here too!

• Armhole alignment: everything is fine.

• Shirt bottom hem: thin and regular.

• Buttonholes: well made, well cleaned.

Details

• Buttons: thick plastic, imitation mother-of-pearl. No reinforcement tail. Stitched parallel. Nothing special, then.

• Reinforcement swallows: rounded in shape. Well done.

• Patterns aligned with each other: correct.

• Throat: simple, lined with a fine iron-on for hold. Interesting to give more hold to a formal shirt which will be subject to twisting and rubbing in the pants.

Style and appearance

I really appreciate the texture provided by this woven micro-pattern, which is a little original while remaining consistent with the elegant register for which the shirt is intended.

The choice of the Windsor collar, very classic, balances well the originality of the patterns .

Small interesting detail which reinforces the “classic” side of the shirt: the edges of the cuffs and collar are stitched quite far from the edge, leaving a small fold of fabric which creates a raised border.

The darts on the upper back as well as the clearly defined double pleats on the cuffs reinforce the tailoring DNA of the shirt.

How to wear it?

With a suit, or a blazer . Accessorize your outfit enough to stay consistent with the style of this shirt!

Brand and customer experience

Given the brand's communication very focused on made in Italy , I was surprised not to see, on the label, at least European confection...

Made in China! The level of which is very honorable, as you could see above, but it is a surprise that we discover when opening the package.

This is really the kind of information on which we would like more transparency , and nothing was indicated on this subject on the brand's shop.

No information on the origin of the materials, nor the suppliers. This does not mean that the material is bad, but we are all keen to have more traceability on this subject, that would better contextualize the price.

A site that could really be improved for a brand of this scale, and which is not always translated, or obviously with Google Translate...

And customer service is not necessarily easy to reach.

Giotho: Dress shirt in white twill

A shirt at €79, located on the average basket in our comparison.

The basis: the material

A white twill made in Europe, everything that is most classic : medium weight, tight weave. Suitable for most seasons throughout the year, but avoid when it is a little hot.

It is a double-twisted fabric, which gives it a nice texture: combined with the usual properties of twill, the material does not crease too much.

The hand also feels rather soft and pleasant.

Cut and sizing side

A well-fitted and nicely designed cut, but which seems to me more suitable for smaller builds .

By small build, I don't necessarily mean small, but someone who would have a somewhat narrow shoulder width compared to the rest of their physique.

It is therefore very uncomfortable for me in 38: I am compressed at the level of the shoulders, the armpit, the arms, the back... But it is nevertheless the right neck circumference (essential for a shirt which will be worn with a tie!).

What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?

A beautiful confection made in Lithuania, with certain rare details at this price .

Collar and cuffs

• Fit: collar and cuffs are well maintained, but the iron-on collar is a bit too cardboardy and “cracks” a little. Special mention, however, to “ribbed stitching”: this term is used when the shirt collar seam is very close to the edge. The operation is a little more difficult to carry out and the result is more refined.

• Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!

• Stripping of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: very good on the collar, very regular but with a little excess fabric on the cuffs.

Fine craftsmanship

• Threads sticking out: few.

• Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, the good standard for this price range. Beautiful, very fine English seams as a bonus.

• Armhole alignment: everything is fine.

• Shirt bottom hem: nickel. Fine and regular, it's a beautiful hem.

• Boutonnieres: they are pretty! Beautiful relief, nice density, clean! The buttonholes on the hidden button down could, however, be curved to make buttoning easier.

Details

• Buttons: imitation mother-of-pearl plastic, without reinforcing tail.

• Reinforcement swallows: rounded in shape. Just correct because not completely clear, nor identical on both sides.

• Throat: simple.

Style and appearance

This is probably the most classic example of our entire comparison. A white twill shirt, with a very intermediate collar, both in terms of size and opening. There is not much to add: it is a piece that has proven itself for a long time.

However, we all need one (or more) shirts like these, versatile and ideal for the office. Purely basic, then, but it gets the job done.

We still note the little hidden button-down which is intended to make it more portable, even with the first buttons open. Practical if you have few shirts and want to use it both casual and formal.

How to wear it?

In principle, it is a fairly versatile shirt due to its simplicity, so no contraindications. That said, I find it looks better in a formal outfit.

Brand and customer experience

Everything generally went smoothly.

I encountered some small difficulties in finding how to contact customer service and therefore had to go through the Facebook page.

On a more personal level, I also find that the brand's selection would benefit from taking a little more risks and offering less basic and less classic shirts, especially casual ones, even if it means making a little fewer striped or striped models. white shirts.

Lanieri - Half Measure: White Oxford Dress Shirt

A half-measure shirt at €81, which is rather at the top of the basket in our comparison.

The basis: the material

A beautiful white oxford from Ibieffe, a small little-known Italian spinning mill.

Due to its dense and tight weave, the material reflects light a lot and shines very slightly, which gives it a slightly more “precious” appearance than that which we generally associate with the classic, rather casual Oxford.

The texture is visually very regular.

The hand is quite soft, but slightly “dry” as is often the case with oxfords: it will not slide on your skin like a fine poplin would, for example.

On the other hand, for a sturdy fabric like this, the shirt remains very breathable and wrinkles little.

Cut and sizing side

At the first fitting, the shirt was clearly too loose at the hips and back. It seems that Lanieri's algorithm prefers to predict a little broadly , even if it means making you retouch afterwards in the event of an error.

After retouching, the fit is already better and completely wearable. Fitted but comfortable, good lengths…

However, it can still be improved and perhaps would have needed a third touch-up to really suit me.

The armhole is too low, and the back lacks a little width. These two elements combined limit the movement of the arm quite a bit.

I could have asked for more touch-ups to refine the result (the brand would do it without problem), but we were running out of time. I will certainly have to have this aspect corrected on my future orders.

Remember that a half-measure pattern improves with each return you make to the brand , until it suits you perfectly!

What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?

A very convincing Italian confection , especially when you take into account the price and the fact that it is measured! This is one of Lanieri's big arguments: producing in a country where labor is recognized and still expensive, while offering such prices.

However, it still has some small flaws, which seem to me to be inevitable concessions in the prices charged.

Collar and cuffs

• Outfit: an important element for me, the Italians really know how to make beautiful collars. Flexible and rigid at the same time, the iron-on absolutely does not crack and... miracle! When the shirt is open, the collar still hangs beautifully on the wearer. This is not the case for all the shirts in this comparison.

• Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: a very slight asymmetry on the collar. It's a matter of 2mm, a bit of a shame given the success of the work on its outfit.

• Removal of cuffs, collar and collar stand: a thick hair at the wrist, but very regular. A little rough on the edge of the collar, however. Quite an important point here, as it's more visible on a white shirt.

Fine craftsmanship

• Threads sticking out: few.

• Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, a good standard at this price. Beautiful English seams as a bonus!

• Armhole alignment: everything is fine.

• Shirt bottom hem: very regular.

• Buttonholes: good density, nice relief, but they could be a little better “cleaned” and are not always entirely open.

Details

• Buttons: thick plastic, imitation mother-of-pearl. No reinforcement tail. Stitched parallel. Nothing special, then.

• Reinforcement swallows: rounded in shape. Well done.

• Patterns aligned with each other: correct.

• Throat: simple, lined with a fine iron-on for hold. Interesting to give more hold to a formal shirt which will be subject to twisting and rubbing in the pants.

Style and appearance

Since this is a matter of half measures, I obviously chose the configuration of this shirt myself. Therefore, let's explain my approach a little.

On the Lanieri configurator, I first chose a fabric. I chose this material because it seemed perfect for an elegant shirt, which creases little but breathes enough to be worn even in warmer weather. .

I also like its very regular oxford pattern, offering a certain texture while remaining entirely compatible with a formal outfit.

To support this choice, I opted for a classic, slightly narrow collar, the size of which is designed to be highlighted by a jacket and a tie.

Finally, for the rest, I chose to go as simple as possible: rounded cuffs, imitation mother-of-pearl buttons, no throat, no chest pocket. I prefer clean formal shirts; less is more , right?

And, of course, no embroidery...

How to wear it?

It's a slightly dressy shirt, so best worn with a blazer or a suit, although it won't look shocking in a more casual outfit either!

Brand and customer experience

One of Lanieri's big strengths for me.

The site has a rather intuitive user experience (as intuitive as it can be for ordering measurements online), and the video tutorial for taking measurements - step by step - makes the task much easier.

The algorithm analyzing your measurements is also effective: try to enter measurements that are too far from what is statistically possible according to your other measurements, it will warn you that there is probably an error.

I also appreciate the highlighting of materials and their suppliers. This allows you to get a better idea of ​​what you're paying, the different price ranges, the quality of fabrics you can expect (if you know the suppliers)...

The welcome at the showroom (in Paris) by Riccardo is also excellent.

In short...

A quick summary of the strong points and areas for improvement on these four shirts!

The Suitsupply flannel shirt

Strong points

• A great material.

• A strong but successful style bias, which is less easily found in these price ranges.

• An exemplary customer experience.

• A very well thought out cut, especially in terms of comfort.

Areas for improvement

• The buttonholes are a bit average.

• The absence of whales.

• The alignment of the patterns which is missing.

The Boggi dobby shirt

Strong points

• The rendering of the material.

• A real touch in terms of style, which changes from certain sometimes boring formal shirts.

• A good overall level of craftsmanship.

Areas for improvement

• A collar a little too cardboardy.

• The stays integrated into the collar.

• The alignment of the patterns which is missing.

• We would have liked to know a little more about the origin of the material.

• The somewhat ambiguous communication game at the place of manufacture.

• A truly perfectible user experience online.

The Giotho twill shirt

Strong points

• A double twisted material.

• More advanced tailoring than average in certain aspects: rib stitching at the collar, fine English seams, cleanliness, buttonholes.

• Can be a positive or negative point, but this cut will especially suit small builds.

Areas for improvement

• Swallows and baldness could be improved to reach the right level of the rest of the crafting.

The Lanieri oxford shirt

Strong points

• The fall of the pass.

• Italian materials with presentation of spinning mills.

• The user experience on the site (I appreciated the video tutorial for taking measurements).

• The algorithm that warns you if you have entered too improbable measurements.

• Really accessible tailor-made shirts, in a neighboring country.

Areas for improvement

• The slight asymmetry of the collar on my shirt.

• The lack of comfort in the back after the first touch-up.

• The buttonholes which lack a little cleanliness.

See you next week for the third episode (and if necessary, here for the first ).

Until then, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask them in the comments. We will be happy to answer you!