For this first part of our big comparison of shirts under €90 , I invite you to take a look at three French brands that are getting a lot of attention, particularly thanks to their approach without intermediaries: Hast, Première Manche and Loom.
Ready?
Hast Pastel Green Oxford Shirt
A shirt for €64, located in the bottom basket of our comparison.
The basis: the material
A pastel green oxford, whose effect is based on white threads intertwined with turquoise green threads.
The color, although original, is rather successful. It manages to maintain a certain softness, a visual neutrality which makes it easily portable.
An oxford in a nice color, which is a bit of a change from the classics without being too difficult to wear.
Cut and sizing side
A fairly straight casual cut, but with a normal sizing at the shoulders.
It will be more suitable for strong body types, or for very casual looks. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to someone rather short, like me: this kind of cut doesn't really help us grow taller...
A slightly straight cut, really intended for the most casual uses or more robust body types.
The shirt is cut short enough to be worn outside of the pants.
A nice ease at the armhole as well , which leaves the arm fairly free without compromising the fit. That said, the collar is perhaps a little too generous for a size S.
What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?
This has always been Hast's strong point: Portuguese manufacturing on this model (“Made in EU” label, but confirmed with the brand), which is impeccable given the price.
Collar and cuffs
- Outfit: nothing to report on these casual collar and cuffs! No curved buttonhole for the collar though, which would make buttoning the collar easier.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!
- Stripping of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: very good! Fine and regular.
Fine craftsmanship
- Threads sticking out: few.
- Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, which is a good standard for the price
- Armhole alignment: everything is fine.
- Bottom hem of the shirt: a tad thick (not very serious in the spirit of a somewhat robust casual shirt), but regular and clean.
- Buttonholes: clean, without being very dense or raised.
Details
- Buttons: light imitation horn plastic.
- Reinforcement swallows: pointed, well sewn and solid.
- Chest pocket: well made but a little too massive in appearance.
- Throat: simple.
Nothing shocking, and the buttons are well sewn. But on this color, the contrasting thread is superfluous.
A well-made swallow. But here too, I would have preferred it tone-on-tone, in the same fabric as the shirt.
Style and appearance
The shirt is cut quite straight and relatively short. In addition, it has a medium-sized button-down collar, which clearly places it in the casual register , in accordance with the frequent use of Oxford fabrics.
Despite the material, which looks convincing, this shirt does not completely win my favor in terms of style.
I regret that it is so loaded with details : the plastic buttons with a “tortoise shell” appearance, the contrasting white reinforcement swallows, the last button sewn with contrasting red thread, the chest pocket a little too imposing in its appearance... All these elements weigh down the piece a little and work against it in my eyes.
We would have more easily understood the approach of the contrasting elements on an extremely sober and classic color. Even if I'm not fond of these kinds of details, a small, colorful and discreet element can add something. But on an original color like this, it would have been better without, I think.
How to wear it?
Casual attire required.
Unless you really know what you're doing, avoid pants with slightly generous leg openings: the shirt is already quite straight, no need to add volume to the outfit .
I decided to take advantage of the slightly "busy" side of the shirt and wear it as an overshirt, opened over a t-shirt.
(Seagale linen T-shirt, BonneGueule chinos, National Standard sneakers.)
Brand and customer experience
Nothing to report for the customer experience, everything is good: shipping goes smoothly, customer service is available and the site is efficient.
Point very appreciated by some customers at Hast: many models have a “longer sleeves” option with 5cm more . Practical for the older ones among us who don't necessarily want to take half measures.
The site does not always give the suppliers of the materials, but the brand generally works with Italian or European suppliers and will be able to provide you with information if necessary.
First Sleeve - Gray speckled flannel shirt
A shirt at €56, one of the most affordable in the comparison.
The basis: the material
A pretty light gray flannel from Tessitura Monti, decorated with an unusual speckling: very present black and sky blue, and touches of caramel brown here and there.
A pretty speckled flannel.
The feel is fluffy and pleasant as one would expect from any good self-respecting flannel. It goes without saying that such a thick, brushed material keeps you warm and is therefore only intended for winter.
The material has a good texture even if it is not double-twisted, which is easier to obtain on this type of thick fabric.
Cut and sizing side
A well-designed cut consistent with what one would expect from a standard 38… apart from the really pronounced fit at the hips and stomach ! Even having lost a little weight recently, it's still a little tight for me at this level.
A very snug fit at the hips and pelvis. This is why for me, who has a fairly wide pelvis, the shirt opens at the bottom.
It is therefore rather intended for sufficiently thin or athletic physiques, so as to have a strong demarcation between the waist and the chest.
The length is more suitable for wearing in pants (unless you are tall enough).
What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?
A great confection made in Lithuania which impresses at this price:
Collar and cuffs
- Hold: very well maintained, but the iron-on is very thick and too cardboardy. It “cracks” a little. Another point that I don't like: the collar stand is mounted in such a way as to be very rigid, so that when the shirt is worn with one or two buttons open, the collar sometimes tends to remain erect around the wearer's neck without land on it, which is not the most beautiful effect. (you will see it in the style section). The thick material and hidden button-down are other factors that likely contribute to the problem, since they were combined with a very thick iron-on.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!
- Stripping of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: very even and little excess fabric.
This very rigid collar gives a nice impression of "sharpness" in a static posture like here, but in movement, in a natural situation, it works a little less well...
Fine craftsmanship
- Threads sticking out: few.
- Seams: 7 stitches per centimeter, which is more than respectable in this price range! Beautiful, very fine English seams as a bonus.
- Armhole alignment: everything is fine.
- Bottom hem of shirt: fine and regular, nothing to report!
- Boutonnieres: very beautiful! Consistent and dense relief, and very clean interior! The buttonholes on the hidden button down could, however, be curved to make buttoning easier.
Details
- Buttons: mother-of-pearl, with reinforcing shank. A good detail too.
A button mounted on the tail to improve its hold over time.
- Reinforcement swallows: point-shaped, well made.
- Patterns aligned with each other: correct.
- Throat: simple, lined with a fine iron-on adhesive. This is useful for giving more hold to a formal shirt, which will be subject to twisting and rubbing in the pants.
Style and appearance
I appreciate the mix of this beautiful flannel with a completely casual appearance, with the more elegant shape of a casual chic shirt with a small Italian collar, rather designed to be “all-purpose”.
The chosen material really brings originality to this shirt. The hidden button-down allows you to have a wearable shirt for both formal and casual wear.
One point about this collar however: the excessive rigidity of its foot makes it stand erect around the wearer's neck without actually resting on it , which gives a slightly strange effect.
How to wear it?
This shirt has a formal shirt length and a somewhat dressy collar, but a very casual material.
Ideally, these two dimensions should also be found in your outfit , by mixing elegant pieces and casual pieces, while wearing the shirt in the pants.
(Donegal BonneGueule pants (Retail Line), Atelier Particulier belt, National Standard sneakers.)
Here, the donegal pants, like this shirt, are a formal-inspired piece with a more casual material.
The belt adds a little elegance, and the white sneakers energize the outfit while “breaking up” the dressed ensemble.
The sleeves are rolled up to slightly accentuate the casual side .
Brand and customer experience
A nice selection that renews quite quickly for such a young brand. I would like to see more collar shapes, and more “specialized” shirts in the future: real 100% casual shirts, and real shirts dedicated to formal only.
Loom - Water-repellent “technical” shirt
A shirt at €85, located at the top of our comparison basket.
The basis: the material
I must admit that I was very excited by the concept on paper: a white shirt in an ultra water-repellent material which would guarantee that I would be protected from stains on New Year's Eve.
However, if the technical properties are indeed present
The hand is really unpleasant, to the point where I had itching and even some redness when I got home
In terms of water repellency, nothing to say! On the other hand, the material is really unpleasant to wear.
But we must still give it a positive point: all liquids, even the bottom of dirty coffee cups, slide off without leaving any traces. For water repellency, it is indeed effective.
Last point that is unpleasant and a little worrying for the wearer's skin: the material smells very strongly of industrial chemicals, even several months after purchasing the shirt.
Cut and sizing side
It's a 38 that looks like a 38, and that's already taken.
However, the cut seems a little inconsistent to me : it is very fitted at the top (narrow in the chest, arms, very tight armhole, no ease in the back) while being relatively generous at the bottom.
A fitted cut on the upper body but quite generous on the abdomen.
So, I don't really see which body shape the cut targets since very thin people, if they will be highlighted on the bust, will tend to have too much excess on the bottom with this cut, while the average physique will be a a little too cramped at the top.
What about the manufacturing, finishes and details?
A Portuguese confection... Which does not necessarily live up to the reputation of the country, where many respected brands in the mid/high range are manufactured.
Collar and cuffs
- Fit: collar well maintained and flexible, but which falls on the sides when worn open.
The collar collapses to the sides when open, even though it is small.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: asymmetrical on the collar and cuffs. To improve!
- Stripping of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: fine but very irregular in places. Most visible on a white shirt.
Fine craftsmanship
- Threads sticking out: few.
- Seams: 6 points per centimeter, which is standard, but which differs from the 7 points announced on the site. Same thing for the French seams announced by the sales page... which are not there.
- Armhole alignment: everything is fine.
- Shirt bottom hem: medium. A little irregular.
- Buttonholes: good! Dense and rather clean.
Details
- Buttons: plastic, without reinforcing tail, unlike the mother-of-pearl buttons indicated on the site.
- Reinforcement swallows: rounded. Not very clean and poorly assembled.
- Patterns aligned with each other: correct.
- Throat: simple.
A swallow not really well done...
Style and appearance
I'm not won over here either.
Why did you make a formal shirt collar so small? I want to understand that some prefer slightly more discreet collars, that not everyone is a fan of large Italian-style tailoring “gentleman” collars. I myself appreciate certain little button-down collars on a casual shirt, and it's something that remains quite common in France. But this is really tiny...
It won't work in terms of proportions for the vast majority of men either.
And it is not a shirt that is intended to be “versatile” since the length is that of a shirt rather made to be worn inside pants. I therefore remain perplexed by this bias.
Finally, the collar, even though it is small, still manages to “fly away” and not hold correctly when it is open, so much so that it is difficult to wear unbuttoned.
How to wear it?
It is a white shirt, therefore a simple piece, but due to the arguments presented above, you have two constraints which do not normally go together: the length is designed for wearing in pants, but the collar does not work well with a tie.
Therefore, the best compromise I could find is to wear it tucked in, with a single button open to prevent the collar from being crushed too much, in a look that is not too busy.
( BonneGueule jeans , Orban's boots, Post & Co. belt)
Brand and customer experience
Nothing to report in terms of shipping, and the return and shipping conditions are rather advantageous (free from 50 euros, and the brand offers a nice and rather varied selection on its shop).
However, I am disappointed by the fact that Loom announces finishes (mother-of-pearl buttons, French seams, 7 stitches per centimeter) which are ultimately not present.
It may be an error on their part (it happens to everyone!), or there may have been changes since my order, but I was quite surprised when writing the comparison.
In short...
Quick summary of the advantages and disadvantages of these three shirts!
The Hast oxford shirt
Strong points
- A pretty, well-done color in a pleasant material.
- Almost impeccable tailoring, for the price.
Areas for improvement
- A cut that may not be unanimously accepted for the slightly straight style.
- Too full of unnecessary details.
The First Sleeve flannel shirt
Strong points
- A great material.
- Really advanced tailoring and details for this price.
- Perhaps a positive as well as a negative point, but the cut is really slim fit... Watch out for the stomach and love handles!
Areas for improvement
- Real problems with the collar, notably a too stiff fit.
The Loom water-repellent shirt
Strong points
- The water repellency works really well!
Areas for improvement
- The crashing pass
- The cut a little strange.
- The confection which is not at the price level.
- The collar too small.
- A truly perfectible user experience online
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We're coming to the end of this first episode. As you can see, this is a new approach to test articles, so don't hesitate to tell us what you think in the comments!
See you next week for episode 2!
