For this first part of our big comparison of shirts under €90 , I invite you to take a look at three French brands that are much talked about, particularly thanks to their approach without intermediaries: Hast, Première Manche and Loom.
Ready?
Hast Pastel Green Oxford Shirt
A shirt for €64, located at the bottom of our comparison.
The basis: the material
A pastel green oxford, the effect of which is based on white threads intertwined with turquoise green threads.
The color, although original, is rather successful. It manages to maintain a certain softness, a visual neutrality that makes it easily wearable.
An oxford in a nice color, which is a bit different from the classics without being too difficult to wear.
Cutting and sizing side
A fairly straight casual cut, but with normal sizing at the shoulders.
It will suit more robust body types, or very casual looks. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to someone who is rather small, like me: this kind of cut doesn't really help us to look taller...
A slightly straight cut, really intended for more casual uses or more robust body types.
The shirt is cut short enough to be worn outside the pants.
A nice ease at the armhole as well , which leaves the arm quite free without compromising the fit. That said, the collar is perhaps a little too generous for a size S.
What about the manufacturing, finishing and details?
This has always been Hast's strong point: Portuguese manufacturing on this model (labeled "Made in EU", but confirmed with the brand), which is impeccable considering the price.
Collar and cuffs
- Outfit: Nothing to report on these casual collars and cuffs! No curved buttonhole for the collar however, which would make it easier to button the collar.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!
- Trimming of cuffs, collar and collar stand: very good! Fine and regular.
Fineness of the confection
- Protruding threads: few.
- Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, which is a good standard for the price
- Armhole alignment: all good.
- Shirt bottom hem: a little thick (not a big deal in the spirit of a somewhat sturdy casual shirt), but regular and clean.
- Buttonholes: clean, without being very dense or raised.
Details
- Buttons: light horn imitation plastic.
- Reinforcement swallows: pointed, well sewn and strong.
- Chest pocket: well made but a little too bulky in appearance.
- Throat: simple.
Nothing shocking, and the buttons are well sewn. But on this colorway, the contrasting thread is superfluous.
A well-made swallow. But here too, I would have preferred it tone-on-tone, in the same fabric as the shirt.
Style and appearance
The shirt is cut quite straight and relatively short. In addition, it has a medium-sized button-down collar, which clearly places it in the casual register , in line with the frequent use of oxford fabrics.
Despite the material, which looks convincing, this shirt does not completely win my favor in terms of style.
I regret that it is so loaded with details : the plastic buttons with a “tortoiseshell” look, the contrasting white reinforcement swallows, the last button sewn with a contrasting red thread, the chest pocket that is a little too imposing in its appearance… All these elements weigh down the piece a little and work against it in my eyes.
It would have been easier to understand the approach of the contrasting elements on an extremely sober and classic color. Even if I am not fond of this kind of detail, a small colorful and discreet element can bring something. But on an original color like this one, it would have been better without, I think.
How to wear it?
Casual attire required.
Unless you really know what you're doing, avoid pants with slightly generous leg openings: the shirt is already straight enough, no need to add volume to the outfit .
I decided to take advantage of the slightly "busy" side of the shirt and wear it as an overshirt, open over a t-shirt.
(Seagale linen T-shirt, BonneGueule chinos, National Standard sneakers.)
Brand and customer experience
Nothing to report regarding the customer experience, everything is good: shipping goes smoothly, customer service is available and the site is efficient.
A point that some customers really appreciate at Hast: many models have a “longer sleeves” option with 5cm more . Practical for the taller among us who would not necessarily want to do half-measures.
The site does not always give the suppliers of the materials, but the brand generally works with Italian or European suppliers and will be able to provide you with information if necessary.
First Sleeve - Grey Speckled Flannel Shirt
A shirt for €56, among the most affordable in the comparison.
The basis: the material
A lovely light grey flannel from Tessitura Monti, embellished with an unusual speckle: black and sky blue very present, and touches of caramel brown here and there.
A pretty speckled flannel.
The touch is fluffy and pleasant as one would expect from any good flannel that respects itself. It goes without saying that such a thick and brushed material keeps you warm and is therefore intended only for winter.
The material has a good springiness even though it is not double-twisted, which is easier to achieve on this type of thick fabric.
Cutting and sizing side
A well-designed cut that is consistent with what you would expect from a standard 38… apart from the really pronounced fit at the hips and stomach ! Even though I've lost a bit of weight recently, it's still a bit tight for me at this level.
A very tight fit at the hips and pelvis. That's why for me, who has a fairly wide pelvis, the shirt opens at the bottom.
It is therefore rather intended for sufficiently thin or athletic physiques, so as to have a strong demarcation between the waist and the chest.
The length makes the shirt more suited to being tucked into pants (unless you are tall enough).
What about the manufacturing, finishing and details?
A great confection made in Lithuania that impresses at this price:
Collar and cuffs
- Hold: Holds very well, but the iron-on is very thick and too cardboardy. It “cracks” a little. Another thing I don’t like: the collar stand is set up in such a way that it is very rigid, so that when the shirt is worn with one or two buttons open, the collar sometimes tends to stay up around the wearer’s neck without resting on it, which is not the most attractive effect. (You’ll see this in the style section). The thick material and the hidden button-down are other factors that probably contribute to the problem, since they were combined with a very thick iron-on.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: nothing to report!
- Trimming of cuffs, collar and collar stand: very regular and little excess fabric.
This very rigid collar gives a nice impression of "neatness" in a static posture like here, but in movement, in a natural situation, it works a little less well...
Fineness of the confection
- Protruding threads: few.
- Seams: 7 stitches per centimeter, which is more than honorable for this price range! Beautiful, very fine English seams as a bonus.
- Armhole alignment: all good.
- Shirt bottom hem: fine and regular, nothing to report!
- Buttonholes: Very nice! Consistent and dense relief, and very clean interior! The buttonholes on the hidden button down could however be curved to make buttoning easier.
Details
- Buttons: mother-of-pearl, with reinforcement tail. A nice extra detail.
A button mounted on the tail to improve its durability over time.
- Reinforcement swallows: pointed, well made.
- Patterns aligned with each other: correct.
- Throat: simple, lined with a thin iron-on adhesive. This is useful for giving more support to a formal shirt, which will be subject to twisting and rubbing in the trousers.
Style and appearance
I like the mix of this beautiful flannel with a completely casual look, with the more elegant shape of a casual chic shirt with a small Italian collar, rather designed to be “all-purpose”.
The chosen material really brings originality to this shirt. The hidden button-down allows you to have a shirt that can be worn both formally and casually.
One point about this collar, however: the excessive rigidity of its foot makes it stand erect around the wearer's neck without actually resting on it , which gives a slightly strange effect.
How to wear it?
This shirt has a formal shirt length and a slightly dressy collar, but a very casual material.
Ideally, these two dimensions should also be reflected in your outfit , by mixing elegant and casual pieces, while wearing the shirt tucked into the pants.
(Donegal pants BonneGueule (Retail Line), Atelier Particulier belt, National Standard sneakers.)
Here, the Donegal trousers, like this shirt, are a formal-inspired piece in a more casual material.
The belt adds a bit of elegance, and the white sneakers liven up the outfit while "breaking up" the formal ensemble.
The sleeves are rolled up to accentuate the casual side a little .
Brand and customer experience
A nice selection that is renewed quite quickly for such a young brand. I would like to see more collar shapes, and more “specialized” shirts in the future: real 100% casual shirts, and real shirts dedicated to formal wear only.
Loom - Water-repellent “technical” shirt
A shirt for €85, located at the top of our comparison basket.
The basis: the material
I must admit that I was very excited by the concept on paper: a white shirt in an ultra-water-repellent material that would guarantee that I would be protected from stains on New Year's Eve.
However, if the technical properties are indeed present
, the material itself is not a success.
The hand is really unpleasant, to the point where I had itching and even some redness when I got home . Maybe it's my skin that's sensitive.
In terms of water repellency, nothing to say! On the other hand, the material is really unpleasant to wear.
But we must still give it one positive point: all liquids, even the bottom of dirty coffee cups, slide off without leaving any traces. As for water repellency, it is therefore indeed effective.
Last unpleasant point and a little worrying for the wearer's skin: the material smells very strongly of industrial chemicals, and this still does several months after purchasing the shirt.
Cutting and sizing side
It's a 38 that looks like a 38, and that's already something.
However, the cut seems a little inconsistent to me : it is very fitted at the top (narrow at the chest, arms, very tight armhole, no ease in the back) while being relatively generous at the bottom.
A fitted cut on the upper body but quite generous on the abdomen.
So, I don't really see what body type the cut is targeting since very thin people, while they will be highlighted on the bust, will tend to have too much excess on the bottom with this cut, while the average physique will be a little too cramped on top.
What about the manufacturing, finishing and details?
A Portuguese confection… Which does not necessarily live up to the reputation of the country, where many respected brands in the mid/high end are manufactured.
Collar and cuffs
- Hold: collar well supported and supple, but which collapses on the sides when worn open.
The collar scrunches up at the sides when open, even though it's small.
- Symmetry of the collar and cuffs: asymmetrical on the collar as well as the cuffs. To be improved!
- Thinning of the cuffs, collar and collar stand: fine but very irregular in places. More visible on a white shirt.
Fineness of the confection
- Protruding threads: few.
- Seams: 6 stitches per centimeter, which is standard, but differs from the 7 stitches advertised on the site. Same thing for the English seams advertised on the sales page… which are not there.
- Armhole alignment: all good.
- Shirt hem: medium. A little uneven.
- Buttonholes: Good! Dense and rather clean.
Details
- Buttons: plastic, without a reinforced tail, unlike the mother-of-pearl buttons indicated on the site.
- Reinforcement swallows: rounded. Not very clean and poorly mounted.
- Patterns aligned with each other: correct.
- Throat: simple.
A swallow not really well done...
Style and appearance
I'm not won over there either.
Why did you make a formal shirt collar so small? I can understand that some people prefer slightly more discreet collars, that not everyone is a fan of the large Italian-style "gentleman" tailored collars. I myself like some small button-down collars on a casual shirt, and it's something that remains quite common in France. But here, it's really tiny...
It also won't work proportion-wise for the vast majority of men. and above all, it makes wearing a tie complicated: it will stick out from the back of the collar once tied.
And it's not a shirt that's meant to be "versatile" since the length is that of a shirt rather made to be worn in pants. So I remain perplexed by this bias.
Finally, the collar, even though it is small, still manages to “fly away” and not hold itself properly when it is open, so much so that it is difficult to wear unbuttoned.
How to wear it?
It's a white shirt, so a simple piece, but because of the arguments set out above, you have two constraints that don't normally go together: the length is designed to be worn in pants, but the collar doesn't work well with a tie.
Therefore, the best compromise I could find is to wear it tucked in, with only one button open to prevent the collar from being too flat, in a look that is not too busy.
( Jean BonneGueule , Orban's boots, Post & Co. belt)
Brand and customer experience
Nothing to report in terms of shipping, and the return and shipping conditions are rather advantageous (free from 50 euros, and the brand offers a nice and rather varied selection on its shop).
However, I am disappointed by the fact that Loom announces finishes (mother-of-pearl buttons, English seams, 7 stitches per centimeter) which are ultimately not present.
It might be a mistake on their part (it happens to everyone!), or there might have been changes since I ordered, but I was quite surprised when writing the comparison.
In short...
A quick summary of the advantages and disadvantages of these three shirts!
The Hast Oxford Shirt
Highlights
- A pretty color, well done in a pleasant material.
- Almost flawless workmanship for the price.
Areas for improvement
- A cut that may not be unanimously appreciated for its slightly straight style.
- Too loaded with unnecessary details.
The First Sleeve Flannel Shirt
Highlights
- A great material.
- Really great workmanship and detail for the price.
- Maybe a positive or negative point, but the cut is really slim fit… Watch out for the belly and love handles!
Areas for improvement
- Real problems with the collar, particularly a too rigid fall.
The Loom Water-Repellent Shirt
Highlights
- The water repellency works really well!
Areas for improvement
- The collapsing pass
- The cut is a bit strange.
- The confection that is not at the level of the price.
- The collar is too small.
- A truly improvable user experience online
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We're coming to the end of this first episode. As you can see, this is a new approach to test articles, so don't hesitate to tell us what you think in the comments!
See you next week for episode 2!
