For the first time, we have reinterpreted three legendary garments:
- The hoodie
- The fatigue pant
- The coach jacket
We have taken a further step in their history, adding our own touch to it.
We share these three stories with you throughout the week. So that this Saturday, April 11, it's up to you to continue writing them by making each piece your own.
And don't forget: tomorrow, we will complete this collection by presenting our sneakers with an iconic design and our overshirt with an atypical fabric.
We end our epic of essential casual wardrobe items with the coach jacket, literally “the coach’s jacket”.
Please note, due to the availability of the material, the quantities on this piece are very limited: less than 200 pieces.
We're going to tell you the story of this jacket, as timeless as it is practical, and how we re-imagined it...
History of the coach jacket: how did it become a legend?
Yes, it is a garment very present in streetwear, where its simple and timeless design crosses the ages without too many problems.
It all started in the 80s. In the US, coaches needed comfortable clothing that was resistant to wind and a little downpour.
This garment also had to be practical, so that you could easily put on or remove layers of clothing underneath depending on the time of training.
The coach being a person with leadership, who arouses respect and admiration, it is therefore logical that this garment began to build his aura.
Streetwear and coach jacket
Then in the 90s, American streetwear raided the sports wardrobe, notably appropriating the coach jacket.
Are these loans due to the desire to break codes of authority and divert them? Or is it simply because many young Americans were fans of basketball and all the clothing that goes with it?
You choose !
The story of the coach jacket was launched: it is not uncommon to find legendary groups like Public Enemy or NWA posing in a coach jacket.
NWA and the coach jacket, a long love story.
On the brand side, the coach jacket is becoming an essential piece of a streetwear wardrobe, such as Homeboy (which claims to have been a pioneer in the distribution of the coach jacket in 1988), Stüssy or more recently, Supreme.
The Supreme coach jacket, one of their basics that the brand offers in numerous versions.
It is such a functional and popular piece of clothing that it will even become the uniform of FBI agents!
After this history, let's see how we interpreted it to integrate it into our everyday wardrobe.
It was clear that we didn't want to have too obvious an approach, with a simple nylon fabric. We wanted to add a lot more texture...
Our interpretation of the Coach Jacket, or how to make it a contemporary piece
From the FBI agent to the coach, including the rapper or the skateboarder, the least we can say is that we can do things with this piece!
This is due to its shirt collar and its very refined design.
A shirt collar
This is a question that I asked myself a lot: why, on a jacket intended for the outdoors, is it a shirt collar and not a stand-up collar?
I think simply because it conveys a more statutory side to the piece, which is appreciable for a piece worn by a coach.
Note: coach jackets also exist with a small foldable hood, but I'm not a big fan of them, I find the design much more banal. In the case of our coach jacket, the shirt collar gives more personality to the piece.
Slanted pockets
These slanted pockets are, like the collar, a signature of the coach jacket.
They allow the coach to easily slide his hands along the edge of the field. We kept this feature and added a large interior pocket to put a book or magazine:
2 - The traditional charm of Japanese materials at the service of modernity
For this piece we didn't want to work it in nylon, it was too "first degree" for us.
We chose a fabric made in Japan with a tone-on-tone camo pattern, a fabric that you have already seen with us in another color...
The most diligent will have noticed that it is a blue variation of the fabric that we used for our November 2019 over-shirt .
Before returning to this fabric, let me remind you of the relationship the Japanese have with camo.
The perception of the camouflage pattern in Japan
Surprising thing: camo does not have as marked a military dimension in Japan as in Europe.
It rather evokes vintage, military collector's items, surplus nuggets. In short, an “archive” and timeless dimension.
Camo is also very popular in Japanese streetwear, as a graphic brick worked and declined in a thousand ways.
In short, camo is a visual element that the Japanese love to play with. And it is precisely this spirit that we brought back from Japan.
One of the famous hoodies from the Japanese brand BAPE.
1. A Japanese fabric with a camo pattern, directly woven in jacquard
Since the color palette of this fabric is narrowed, the result is even more elegant.
On our coach jacket, you will find the emblematic pattern of military camouflage: woodland .
But using this classic camo as is would have been too obvious: we needed a more polished look . And without strong color contrast, otherwise the room will be visually too busy.
This is where jacquard comes in! Here it allows you to weave (and not print) this tone-on-tone pattern.
When you have the fabric in front of you, the result is much more high-end and elegant than a classic cotton "military" fabric.
What is jacquard loom?
The jacquard loom responds to a simple problem:
How to weave patterns into fabric on an industrial scale?
In 1801, French inventor Joseph Marie Jacquard invented a loom that used a punched card
The original punched card invented by Monsieur Jacquard. Source: CNRS.
In a way, it is the ancestor of computing with its 0s and 1s…
This is what a jacquard loom looks like.
And casually, this invention is:
- a technological revolution , because now only one worker is needed to operate this machine, compared to several previously...
-
a social revolution , which notably triggered the Canut revolt , because the textile workers saw a threat in this machine which did almost everything, all by itself
.
In short, it is difficult to realize the scope of this invention. But two centuries later, it is still thanks to it that we can create beautiful patterns directly in the weaving.
2. A fabric with multiple possibilities
A pretty incredible composition and 100% recycled
The composition of our jacquard fabric is truly special: there are no less than five different materials!
Let’s dissect this composition together:
🐑 47% wool : most of the fabric, it provides warmth and a slightly fluffy hand,
🌱 34% cotton : for softness, but also to stabilize the fabric,
♻️14% polyester : in small quantities, allows the creation of jacquard patterns and provides resistance,
♻️3% acrylic : in tiny quantities, also contributes to the robustness of the fabric,
🌿2% rayon : also very small, a cousin of viscose, again contributes to the strength of the fabric.
And all these materials come from recycling!
At a time when a society has never questioned its consumption patterns so much, this fabric perfectly symbolizes our current issues:
- it comes from recycling
- it is made in Japan , where textile professions are valued and remunerated at their fair value (
- and it is magnificent !
That's a very good question !
Well this material simply could not exist without this 17% recycled synthetic (polyester and acrylic).
In any case, not on a recycled wool basis, the fibers of which are too short to be used in jacquard.
Jacquard weaving actually places significant constraints on the threads, so a binder is needed to consolidate the material. This is where polyester and acrylic come into play, in addition to cotton which, however, plays a lesser role.
A “wabi-sabi” rendering with several different textures
I find that this mix of materials works really well: the rustic appearance, and a certain " wabi-sabi" aesthetic are consistent with the military inspirations.
And above all, this jacquard fabric made from 5 different fibers creates several textures for a truly unique look.
From darkest to lightest:
- dark areas contrast with the camo patterns
- areas with marked horizontal weaving make the transition between dark and light
- more irregular areas almost resemble tweed
- and finally downy areas , scattered sparingly, evoke flannel
It’s an incredibly rich fabric!
Intriguing isn't it? If, like me, while wearing a fabric, you regularly find yourself "glitching" (or being hypnotized) several times a day, this piece should have a great effect on you.
But that's not all...underneath this fabric, there is an insulator well known at BonneGueule...
A technical and functional interpretation for varied climates
The coach jacket is a very practical mid-season garment, suitable for uncertain temperatures, and we wanted to go further by adding Climashield, this insulation that I love.
I've already written about Climashield many times, here's what you need to know about it:
We chose from the APEX range (weight of 67/m²) because it is this range which has the best warmth/lightness ratio.
For fans of technical clothing, know that its CLO is 0.024 g/m2 (this is a unit that measures the heat/weight ratio which is quite complex to understand).
It is with this insulation which resembles a small cloud that the miracle occurs...
Climashield lets us know that, according to them, weight for weight, APEX insulation is the most effective on the market. Moreover, it is a fairly recent range, since it was launched in 2008, while Climashield has existed since 1974.
And as usual, I look a lot at the customers of producers of technical materials. Indeed, it is often a good indicator of the reliability of a brand. So who do you think uses Climashield?
- Acronym obviously, in his J50 bomber
- Tilak , a very famous Czech brand
- Arc'téryx , in its basic line and in its high-end Veilance line. The military line — the LEAF range — also includes Climashield.
- Beyond Clothing , very high-end technical/outdoor brand.
- Kanuk , a Quebec brand of high-end parka, which creates pieces to combat the extreme cold. Our Canadian readers will understand.
Very good, but why do these brands use Climashied and not another insulation?
What is special about Climashield?
The first thing is that Climashield is the pioneer of “continuous filaments” .
In a video that manufacturers of technical materials have the secret to, we can clearly see how the insulation works:
In fact, “classic” wadding is like pharmacy cotton, it falls apart .
This is a problem for clothing because, with repeated use, movement, washing or humidity, your insulation no longer looks like much in the end.
But this is not the case with Climashield!
They are long continuous filaments which makes them, in a way, a “tear-proof” insulator . It's like trying to break a string by pulling on each side, lengthwise. Impossible I tell you!
And there are two very interesting advantages for us:
- Perfect hold over time : Climashield does not tear when it is stretched, it does not clump or separate.
- Highly compressible : it will return to its initial shape very quickly, which makes it very practical when you put this coach jacket in your suitcase for the weekend.
A technology that fights against fabric humidity
Finally, our Climashield insulation is equipped with so-called " Aquaban " technology (yes, I know, they are very strong with names): it keeps heat even when it is wet, while allowing perspiration to escape quickly. On a piece intended for mid-season this is a very useful feature.
You might think that I am a real perfectionist but, having already done tests with less good quality insulation, I guarantee that it is much less pleasant : the feeling of dampness can set in quickly.
Another important thing to know: for Climashield to work well, it needs to have loft, it must not be excessively pressed against your body, because the insulation must not be crushed.
It should just sit on your chest when closed, and that's it.
It is therefore not a piece to choose too fitted. I simply advise you to choose your usual size .
We have ensured that even with a simple t-shirt, you are prepared for large thermal amplitudes.
The weight used here is therefore Climashield APEX 67g.
No problem wearing this jacket with just a t-shirt underneath!
To give you an idea, this is the weight used by all high-end outdoor or military brands for their mid layers.
So with the temperatures rising, for us it is the thickness of Climashield pile suitable for spring or cool evenings. In short, for all situations where you need "light heat".
Those who have already purchased Climashield clothing from us know how pleasant and durable this insulation is.
Moreover, at home you can do a very simple experiment: when you are sitting on your sofa, place this completely unfolded jacket on your legs and you will feel this light and exquisite warmth...
What to wear this coach jacket with?
1. With a hoodie
When we say "coach jacket" you must think "hoodie" because it is an iconic assembly, because the two pieces are exactly from the same universe.
Coach jacket, hoodie, fatigue pants, and BonneGueule sneakers.
2. With a sweatshirt and jeans
Here too, a very simple and everyday outfit, where the sweatshirt is totally in the universe of this coach jacket.
Still in this spirit of relaxation, faded jeans find their place perfectly in this outfit.
Coach jacket, white t-shirt , sweatshirt and BonneGueule jeans .
3. With cargo pants
The cargo bag, also a piece with a very rich imagination, will also make a perfect companion for your coach jacket.
Coach jacket, cargo pants (no longer available) and denim shirt , and white t-shirt .
You can't see the cargo in this photo, but I love how the fabrics of the coach jacket, the denim shirt and the white t-shirt coexist together! Coach jacket, denim shirt , and white t-shirt .
4. With just a t-shirt!
We want this piece to accompany you well into spring, and with such a richly textured fabric, a simple t-shirt will do the trick if necessary!
Please note that it is an outer piece and not a shirt. Indeed, if you compare the measurements of this jacket to those of your favorite shirt, it makes no sense.
Another important point: these are raglan shoulders, so the measurement is more up to everyone's discretion given that there is no seam perpendicular to the shoulder.
| Europe | US |
|---|---|
| 44 | XS |
| 46 | S |
| 48 | M |
| 50 | L |
| 52 | XL |
| 54 | XXL |
| Measure (in cm) |
has. Shoulder to shoulder |
b. Chest |
vs. Sleeve length |
d. Middle back height |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 46 | 44 | 52.5 | 63 | 72 |
| 48 | 45 | 54.5 | 64 | 73 |
| 50 | 46 | 56.5 | 65 | 74 |
| 52 | 47 | 58.5 | 66 | 75 |
| 54 | 48 | 60.5 | 67 | 76 |
How to get our new parts?
It's simple: meet on our e-shop .
