For the first time, we have reinterpreted three legendary garments:
- The hoodie
- The fatigue pant
- The coach jacket
We have taken a further step in their history, adding our own touch to it.
We share these three stories with you throughout the week. So that this Saturday, April 11, it's up to you to continue writing them by making each piece your own.
And don't forget: on Friday, we will complete this collection by presenting our sneakers with an iconic design and our overshirt with an atypical fabric.
After the hoodie, it is now the fatigue pants that we are going to tackle.
Here too, in any casual wardrobe, it is an essential piece, which will last through the decades without aging...
An American military origin
The fatigue pant is a long-standing piece, since its creation dates back to 1952.
In fact, after the Second World War, and as the Cold War began to take hold, the American army decided to completely overhaul its uniform.
It all starts with a fabric, the famous OG-107 cotton, a cotton satin weighing 8.5 oz with a very characteristic olive green color (OG = Olive Green, quite simply).
From the designation of a fabric, the term "OG-107" will become the name of the complete uniform which includes a shirt, and these famous pants, the "fatigue pant", which are intended to be comfortable and practical.
It is also the American uniform that was in service the longest, from 1952 to 1989.
A real piece of history, this uniform!
Since these pants were mass produced, they ended up abundantly in military surplus, and they were a delight for those looking for simple, durable and comfortable pants.
On a piece that has aged so well, with such a rich history, it was normal for Japanese brands to reinterpret it and it has become a must-have in Japan, further supporting the place of fatigue pants in men's fashion.
Oversized fatigue pants from the Japanese brand Needles. With a cut like this, you couldn't be more Japanese!
For those who are more curious, Heddels has written a very nice article on the subject .
The little anecdote that goes well
After its distribution to civilians, these pants were worn by bakers for their comfort and ease of maintenance, hence their nickname "baker" pants.
Our interpretation of the fatigue pant
Two comfortable patch pockets
These are pants whose most emblematic "signature" is the presence of two large patch pockets.
I have my little theory on this: given the quantity to be produced, a simple and efficient design was needed to manufacture. I think the patch pocket was much simpler to make than a classic pocket, with a pocket bag requiring more operations in the making.
In terms of comfort, I find that it is more comfortable to carry things in this type of pocket than in a classic pocket, you feel less "compressed".
Please note: there is a “pocket within the pocket” to better store your personal belongings.
Here we see "the pocket within the pocket" if you want to better compartmentalize your personal belongings.
A beautiful Japanese fabric
The 100% cotton fabric comes from our long-time supplier Dova, it is a micro-chevron woven in Japan.
Its weight is 350g/m2, so we have a robust and versatile fabric.
Note: the more it is washed, the more texture it will take on.
The micro chevron is discreet, it only reveals itself when you get closer to the fabric!
A Cobra buckle from the Austrian manufacturer AustraAlpin
Ah, this famous belt buckle that I fell madly in love with!
This loop that unleashes so much passion!
This loop whose “click” is addictive!
We could write an entire article on the history of this loop, but I'll try to keep it short...
It all started in 1996, the birth of AustriAlpin. It is an Austrian company that manufactures climbing equipment: carabiners, ice axes, crampons, etc.
They have great mastery of aluminum machining and their products quickly become renowned.
Watch this video , it's a factory in the middle of the mountains!
In this photo, these are the "teeth" of the Cobra buckle, before assembly.
1. The birth of the Cobra buckle
Then, they decide to tackle a very simple question:
How can we create a system that allows two straps to be joined in the most secure way in the world, while being extremely simple to handle?
This is where the Cobra buckle was born, whose design is reminiscent of the open jaw of a cobra
A legend was born!
A stainless buckle capable of withstanding several hundred kilos of traction, and which remains very secure in all circumstances and in all weather conditions, and on which the lives of people climbing or skydiving depend on it...
To achieve this feat, AustriAlpin decided to use an aluminum traditionally reserved for aerospace and the navy: aluminum 7075
Military brands quickly realized the value of this indestructible buckle and they used it extensively to make combat belts, which are very easily adjusted thanks to the sliding system and which easily support the weight of multiple filled pouches. magazines, grenades, radio or medical kit.
2. The entry of the Cobra loop onto the podiums
And without really realizing it, AustriAlpin gives birth to such a design that Hollywood action cinema will regularly place it in its costumes.
I estimate that the very first appearance of this loop in cinema was for the first Blade film, in 1998. Then it would be regularly used in science fiction films (Marshall for example), and the entire Marvel universe. .
Five Cobra buckles are hidden in this photo, can you find them?
But it is not finished !
This very industrial and functional design will be very popular in streetwear, and it is the Alyx brand which will be the first to use this type of buckle in belts.
The influence of the Cobra buckle will be such that today, we find an equivalent everywhere at Dior Homme: shoes, jackets and even jewelry. But here too, Dior uses another buckle supplier, most certainly for cost reasons.
Nearly €500 for a Dior belt featuring an ersatz Cobra buckle from AustriaAlpin…
We find this buckle in many techwear brands, but also in bag brands, like Bagjack or Bedouin for example.
For my part, I've been wearing a Cobra belt almost every day for two years. And I confirm it: the mechanism is flawlessly reliable and seems absolutely indestructible.
Once again, there is a lot to say about this loop, and I encourage you to read the Carryology article which recounts their visit to AustriAlpin HQ .
The Cobra buckle on our pants
There are several buckle sizes available, here we have chosen to use their smallest buckle, specially designed for fashion & apparel applications.
Indeed, a standard size Cobra buckle, for an “unaccustomed” audience, can be a little intimidating. Here, it is more discreet, but the famous “click” is very present!
The reduced size of this buckle is a great "first step" for those who have never had a Cobra buckle before. BonneGueule shirt , cardigan , pants and sneakers
And it is indeed an authentic Cobra buckle from AustriAlpin, not a vulgar copy of dubious origins!
I won't hide from you that French brands using Cobra buckles are almost non-existent.
A practical strap + buckle system
This cobra buckle is mounted on a strap, but not just any strap…
This is a strap from a German supplier which has existed since 1887 and which still belongs to the same family.
It is a company specializing in straps of all kinds, whether for industrial or military use.
In the case of our strap, it is military grade ("mil spec" as they say), made in Germany. We wanted something sturdy to withstand all the friction of the Cobra buckle!
Real German quality for the strap!
And for the record, this strap does not emit any reflection when faced with military night vision goggles, unlike normal polyester which can shine.
You can adjust the tightness almost to the nearest millimeter by pulling on each strap. There is a little help to be had (you have to put the strap at the right angle) but after that you can do it with your eyes closed.
To wash , remove the buckle (it's very simple to do), ⚠️ leave the strap on the pants ⚠️ , and put it back on after drying.
Don't forget to remove the buckle — but not the strap — when washing your pants! BonneGueule sweater .
A straighter cut
In the original spirit of the fatigue pant, we have adapted the cut accordingly, to have a looser look than our chinos. We have given more space in the pelvis, calf, and leg opening.
But we encourage you to take your usual size on these pants!
In this photo, we see that we added a little fullness to the thigh. Vintage Levi's jacket, BonneGueule sweater and pants, Paraboots shoes.
Compared to our chinos, we made a slightly wider opening at the ankle. BonneGueule shirt , cardigan , pants and sneakers.
| Measure (in cm) |
has. Size |
b. Half thigh |
vs. Leg length below waistband |
d. Leg opening |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 42 | 36 | 29.1 | 105 | 16.3 |
| 44 | 38 | 30.3 | 105.5 | 16.8 |
| 46 | 40 | 31.5 | 106 | 17.3 |
| 48 | 42 | 32.7 | 106.5 | 17.8 |
| 50 | 44 | 33.9 | 107 | 18.3 |
| 52 | 46 | 35.1 | 107.5 | 18.8 |
| 54 | 48 | 36.3 | 108 | 19.3 |
How to get our new parts?
It's simple: meet on our e-shop .
