With the arrival of the vintage trend, old objects have become beautiful objects and more and more people like to hunt in thrift stores .
There you will find solid pieces, at a reasonable price, that you can use without qualms in the worst conditions. These are pieces with a strong character and, sometimes, with quality finishes and materials (after all, they have been through one or two eras).
But, more than ever, don't buy because it's cheap . Buy only if you know how to integrate the piece into your wardrobe. Because you're going to come across cheap stuff...
So what do you really find in thrift stores?
Vintage imagery has become very fashionable in recent years.
The men's suit jacket: a key piece in thrift stores
Thrift stores are full of vestiges of a time when wearing a jacket was as common as wearing sneakers today. This is a chance for all the stylish people, you will be able to find gems between 30 and 50€.
Personally, apart from suits, these are the only jackets I wear. At that price, I don't care: I roll up the sleeves, I wear them in the rain, I roll them up in a ball in a bag. And the best? They're tough, they live it so very good.
What styles of jackets can you find in thrift stores?
Classic style jackets : lots of navy jackets with chalk-colored stripes. This is what I recommend you aim for first. You will also find stripes on lighter backgrounds: gray or gray-blue.
You can also find velvet jackets but they generally age badly, so be careful. Finally, there are also tweeds in warmer autumn colours.
First thing to do: focus on the fabrics . Don't just think about the pattern because the hand and thickness of the fabric are decisive. For example, it is not uncommon to find thick and stiff wools, very warm and not very comfortable.
Once you have taken two or three jackets off the rack, inspect them more closely and ask yourself what you might wear them with. Pay attention to the lapels, which are often too wide to be aesthetically pleasing in this day and age.
Yes, it is indeed a jacket found in a thrift store from the excellent blog The Hobbyists.
The decisive step: the fitting
Put on the jacket and you will immediately have the answer to this question: does it fit my shoulders? If they are too big or small, Game Over . If they fit, you are lucky because everything else is fixable.
You may need to go through some alterations. However, this is not always the case: only one of my jackets has undergone alterations. Major operation (bending, sleeve fit, length), but today it fits like a Boateng jacket. This is only possible if the shoulders are perfect originally.
Be careful with the condition of the lining , replacing it would cost you dearly.
Buy a men's coat in a thrift store for the winter
The huge advantage of buying your coat in a thrift store is that you can treat yourself to a piece with a very distinctive style.
What styles of coats can you expect to find?
Get ready to come across coats from the 1970s or 1980s, with colors that are rarely used today and neat details. If you are looking for a replica of a WOOYOUNGMI coat, move on. We are talking here about pieces with a much less sober design.
You can find classic pieces: pea coat, duffle coat, but the interest is really less. I do not recommend you to spend a lot of time on these pieces. A beautiful coat in a thrift store must have character.
At least as much character as rapper Macklemore's beloved furs.
The key piece will be the three-quarter length jacket in thick wool, with a large collar and wide lapels. If I add that the fabric is a Prince of Wales in beige tones and that the collar is lined with fur, you understand that not everyone has a use for it in their wardrobe.
On the other hand, note that if you do not buy in a thrift store, you will only find these pieces with such a strong aesthetic in very high-end ready-to-wear. Among the colors that you can find on this kind of pieces: gray, black, navy blue, but also khaki or beige.
What gives these pieces their character is also the details: buttons, pockets, collar, shoulder panels and martingales.
How to spot a good second-hand coat?
In terms of quality, you can find very nice wools but be wary of synthetic blends. Unlike jackets, don't count on alterations to correct a fit that doesn't suit you. The operation is too heavy on a coat: it's expensive and difficult to do.
The fabric of a coat is too worn as soon as the wool shows its weft. That is to say, instead of observing a uniform color and a dense fabric, you will see the different threads that make up the fabric appear. However, if the fabric is thick and this wear is visible on the cuffs, know that the piece will not self-destruct in a few wears.
A tip for those with small frames and thin people: don't hesitate to browse the women's sections , you can find real gems there.
Typically the kind of unique coat you might find in a thrift store!
Vintage Men's Leather Jackets
When looking for a leather jacket, you're going after an iconic piece from thrift stores. You'll find anything and everything!
What leather jackets can you find?
What you will find can be divided into two categories: prefabricated pieces and historical pieces. This does not mean that you will not find sober pieces, but simply that it will not be obvious.
What I call the prefabricated piece is a poor quality leather, without much interest apart from a sometimes low price. They will hardly, if at all, have a patina. Kiliwatch sells them under its own name. They are sometimes good alternatives, but that is simply not the subject of this chapter.
On the other hand, with historical leathers, there is a way to have a lot more fun. Biker leathers, aviator jackets, perfectos but also more original jackets: you will find all types of collars and all lengths. Even more interesting, you will have the choice among leathers with both deep and patinated colors.
That's if you really want to have fun!
How to choose the right vintage leather jacket?
Chocolate, caramel or black leathers are the most common. They are generally of good quality and well cut. A small warning all the same: in your quest for the ideal leather jacket, the XXL size jacket will be your enemy. Be impassive: if it is not your size, move on.
A well-maintained vintage leather jacket should retain some suppleness, even if the leather is thick. You're not putting on the armor of a knight going to joust. When leather has been poorly maintained, it's dry.
The skin can also be really torn or have blisters due to significant tension. If this is the case, give up immediately , it is irreparable. And the time left to live for this leather is in any case very limited.
Patinated leather is leather that has been worn in areas that are most prone to friction. Typically the elbows, cuffs and collar. In these areas, the color and appearance of the leather will have evolved over time. The leather will find a darker shade and the edges will gain a shiny, glossy appearance. .
Just as you know to avoid artificially faded jeans, you will try to avoid leathers that have been fakely aged in a crude manner . Easy to spot: they show strong signs of wear in visible places that do not wear or wear very little, like the torso or the back.
You will have to be patient before you come across such beautifully patinated leather...
Other men's jackets
You will easily find lightweight khaki cotton jackets, like Robert De Niro in Taxi Driver. But I would advise against parkas from the outset, which are quite coarse-cut (or you really need to master silhouettes with oversized tops).
On the other hand, small military jackets (called field jackets) can be a good alternative if you like grunge or punk styles.
Another type of jacket that is very present in thrift stores and that could make you happy: the denim jacket . There really is something for everyone, and every body type!
A lightweight khaki-colored jacket will pair very well with a chambray shirt and jeans.
Vintage men's shoes
What vintage shoes to expect?
Very often in thrift stores, shoes are simply placed on the floor below the clothing racks.
There are some very nice models of Richelieu with Blake-welted or glued soles. Mostly black. You can get a Repetto-type pair for less than €50. You will very rarely find Goodyear welted .
You can get derbies at thrift stores that sell military shoes. Officers' shoes are inexpensive and sturdy. However, the rather wide and round design will work against you if you don't integrate it fully into your outfit.
In the same genre, you can find pretty models of Dr. Martens patinated by an ex-Goth who has now fallen into line.
Dr. Martens are a bit like the second flagship piece in thrift stores.
How to choose them?
On shoes, the appearance of comfort creases occurs more or less quickly depending on several things: the shape of the foot, the care given, the number of times they have been worn... The presence of this crease should not necessarily make you run away!
On the other hand, pay attention to the depth of these folds and the flexibility of the leather . Unmaintained leather dries out, dehydrates and will eventually tear.
Also look at the wear on the sole. If you are unsure, the wear on the heel is also a good indicator. On thin shoes, do not buy if the sole has already started to come off or if the leather is sagging at the front of the shoe. The heel is easily replaced.
Between us, you will have a hard time finding shoes in such good condition in a thrift store but who knows, anything can happen!
Thrift store sneakers also exist
On the sneaker side, the “German Army Trainers” are a great classic, very affordable in terms of price.
Their design is very successful and extremely easy to wear.
It is also easy to find vintage design sneakers, mainly from Adidas, Nike or Puma. Generally, they are low-top sneaker models.
Other pairs of army trainers are worth noting, such as the Italian army's navy sneakers, or those of the Czech army. Rarer, you can still order them on sites like La Tranchée Militaire.
Finally, be careful: suede leathers, laces, and smooth leathers are often damaged. It's obvious, it's not pretty and you'll notice it right away. Don't go looking for a pair of sneakers with a specific idea in mind: you'll come across a wide variety of models and you'll never see the same one twice.
Vintage accessories for men
The big advantage of thrift store accessories is their price. You will be able to treat yourself to pieces that add character to an outfit, which will only cost a tenth of the budget of your outfit.
Thrift stores are the perfect place to buy things you don't want to wear every day. Paradoxically, these are exactly the kind of items that mid-range and high-end ready-to-wear brands like to sell for the price of a pair of raw jeans.
Prepare to rummage around: that's the secret to thrifting, especially for accessories.
Finding accessories in thrift stores: the silk scarf
It's not suitable for everyone, but if you're a fan, you don't have the right to go anywhere other than a thrift store.
Along the same lines, if you need a bow tie for an occasion (I doubt you'll need one every day), you'll find something to do. On the other hand, forget about ties, which are hideous and often stained .
Buying headwear at a thrift store
Here again, you will find a bit of everything depending on the thrift store. For example, you will come across sailor caps: blue, wool, with embroidery and tone-on-tone laces. Also on grandfather berets (not the round ones, the ones with a small visor that were fashionable in hip-hop in the 1990s).
Otherwise, you will find very beautiful felt hats, generally gray or black.
Last category: vintage leather goods
You can easily find genuine leather wallets at garage sales for a few euros.
In thrift stores, you will find quality belts with often busy designs. But in military depots, throw yourself on the 1945 model belts of the French army: they are a killer, even if it means renovating the leather a little with moisturizing milk.
They will bring a little retro and offbeat touch that will make your outfit so charming.
Men's jeans and pants in thrift stores
You will never find good pants, or good jeans . The reason is simple: the cut of the rare pants that will be offered to you is no longer current (high waist, elephant legs, sometimes both at the same time).
The corollary is that you will never find good suits because the pants will never be decently wearable. Also ditch shirts, sweaters and polos which are fragile and very prone to stains.
Strong and... unique pieces
Few people are made to wear pieces with as strong a character as those sometimes found in thrift stores, but everyone should know that the depths of thrift stores are full of treasures in cuts, colors and materials that are beyond comprehension.
If you're really looking to make a stylistic leap (or dress up for an evening...), know that in thrift stores, you can find this:
- rock star pants made of leather pieces held together with laces;
- tuxedo coats;
- biker jackets in patchwork of multi-colored leathers;
- mackerel fur coats;
- leather jackets with long studded fringes;
- Inuit coats made of shearling;
- 19th century officers' jackets with braided edges and 36 buttons;
- Richelieu shoes in foal or crocodile leather;
- black and white patent leather platform loafers;
- cowboy boots or even high-heeled ankle boots inspired by the Sun King.
Purchases to be reserved for informed and self-confident readers.
And to Tyler Durden who dresses in thrift stores, yes yes.
General information on wear and tear in thrift stores
Patinated clothing does not mean worn clothing!
Some materials have longer lifespans than others . Leather is particularly resistant for example but requires maintenance to preserve it. Wool resists well from a certain thickness, or the support of a good bending (jackets and coats can therefore age well).
Below, I provide you with a general list to review before purchasing. But above all, understand that it is not a question of systematically replacing any piece that shows signs of wear. I remind you that, in essence, a thrift store sells second-hand clothes .
Especially since sometimes the signs of wear can be pretexts for very beautiful customizations (sometimes...).
Very discreet signs of wear, or a well-hidden tone-on-tone stain, are not prohibitive defects. You must spot them to protect yourself from unpleasant surprises, estimate the fair price that you are prepared to invest and possibly ask for a reduction.
- Spotting Stains . Look first at the areas where everyone is likely to get stained: the front and bottom of the sleeves. Don't forget the shoulders and back, though.
- Be vigilant about details of the garment that may have been damaged or lost: look for missing martingales, belts and buttons .
- Check that the zippers work properly.
- Spot the holes . The most likely places to have holes are elbows and the bottom of pockets. However, a cigarette burn or moth hole can be found anywhere. If you can inspect the piece against a light source, a possible hole will be immediately apparent.
- A fabric that is worn to the point of being transparent is a no-go. Lean on the bar a few more times and the hole will form once and for all.
Well, for a jacket, you can always cut the sleeves and wear it like that, but it's not the same effect...
Concretely, if you want to explore the thrift stores this weekend:
- Focus on strong pieces like a leather jacket or on original accessories, like a silk scarf,
- Open your eyes wide and observe carefully if the garment is not too damaged,
- Don't be put off by the chaos : yes, we are very far from the refined spirit of high-end boutiques,
- Finally, don't buy just because the price seems low (sometimes good deals turn out not to be).
Some thrift stores in Paris (Rafik)
Following the publication of the article, I share with you some good addresses in Paris. The list is far from exhaustive, do not hesitate to share your good tips with us in the comments!
- Kiliwatch : a little vintage orientation and some new pieces.
- Kilo Shop : everything, clothes are bought by weight.
- Freep Star and Le Roi de la Fripe : two institutions of the Marais thrift store, often filled with beautiful accessories.
- Black Kennedy , with very grunge or punk pieces. Attention, perfecto lovers!
- Hippie Market , a bit of everything in a Summer of Love spirit, but also a high-end selection (I've already seen Burberry duffle coats there, for example). The prices are more expensive because the clothes are sorted, washed and well-ordered on racks.
- BIS , the solidarity shop of Secours Catholique, where there really is everything.
- Nice Piece , a thrift store that is mainly luxury-oriented. For reference, I came across a YSL Rive Gauche trench coat for €200, a Chanel tweed coat for €500 and an old Dior minaudière (for women), from memory, for €250.
All that remains for me is to wish you good hunting!
