Advice: How to choose and match your belt?

The belt is a piece of clothing that is an accessory in name only.

It has been debated for centuries. Anecdotal or essential? Insignificant or unavoidable? Negligible or inevitable? The belt, its wearing and its use are far from creating unanimity...

Today, we will try to find our way through the jungle of prejudices, preconceived ideas and fantasies that surround this paradoxical object.

Are you ready? Fasten your seatbelts!

A SHORT STORY OF A BIG DEBATE

To define the belt, the dictionary tries to give as objective a description as possible:

A strip of fabric or leather that is attached around the waist to hold up a garment, or as an ornament.

The dual destiny of the belt is there: does it have a purely practical or exclusively aesthetic vocation?

Over the centuries, the different peoples who have appropriated it have provided different answers to this question.

In this section, we will focus on these interpretations which have influenced the contemporary use of the belt.

ORIGINALLY, AN ORNAMENTAL OBJECT

Etymologically, "belt" comes from the Latin term cingere which means to girdle or surround.

However, the oldest models found by archaeologists, dating from the Bronze Age , are not used for enclosing but for decoration.

In fact, these are heavy sets of jewelry that can include several dozen meticulously carved and arranged elements. Their value is above all emblematic and statutory rather than practical.

It takes all its symbolism from Greek mythology, notably via the ninth labor of Hercules.

In this case, the hero's mission is to seize the golden belt of Hippolyte, queen of the fearsome Amazons .

Later, the Merovingian dynasty continued this ostentatious tradition. The Merovingians added enormous , richly decorated buckle plates in iron or bronze.

FROM THE MIDDLE AGES: THE BELT AS A PRACTICAL OBJECT

Around the 10th century, the belt found a utilitarian use again under the impetus of the pilgrims of Santiago de Compostela, who girded their purses around their waists to store the money they collected.

The expression "se poignée la ceinture" (to tighten one's belt) dates from this period, when the "belt" was largely associated with begging.

For centuries, and in contrast to the bulky Merovingian belts, this item consisted simply of a strip of fabric tied at the hips.

In the 16th century, under the reign of Francis I, all sorts of objects were attached to these straps, mostly made of silk or leather.

Later, custom-made clothing appeared and the bourgeoisie became passionate about this accessory. During the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, its use became widespread in all strata of society.

During the 20th century, soldiers used it extensively to sculpt their waists and make their builds look more flattering. Until World War II, the utilitarian aspect did not resurface...

This is all the more true among the female public who seize the fashion of the ribbon belt. We then see it on the hips of women, often personalized. It is at this time, in 1920, that Hermès launches its first collection of luxury belts.

THE BELT TODAY

But let's not get lost...

Since the end of the Second World War, the dual use of the belt in Europe seems to have become commonplace: it serves both as a fashion accessory and a practical object .

That being said, we can move on to the part that interests us the most: how to choose it, how to wear it.

WHICH BELT FOR WHICH OCCASION?

First of all, let's clarify that there are different types of belts, in various and varied materials...

This is a bias: I will only talk to you here about the two main categories that you absolutely must know, formal belts and casual belts.

If you are interested in mounted belts, inlaid belts, belts, martingales and other corsets, I therefore recommend that you skip this paragraph!

Whether we are talking about the first category or the second, we must focus on a few essential points: the material, the design and the quality of the finishes.

THE FORMAL BELT

As you might expect... in this area, leather is king. So forget about polyurethane (the famous imitation leather) or polyester...

The two things to be careful about are the leather and the buckle.

I advise you to choose sturdy leathers, with a subtle appearance that will lend itself to the elegance of your suits.

Let's move on to the loop.

Solid brass would be ideal, but plated brass or zamak will work just fine if your budget is a little tighter.

Don't neglect the finishing touches, focus for example on:

• the edge of the belt : was it left as is or did it receive additional treatments (sanded, burned, greased, stained)?
• Are the belt elements sewn or simply glued together ? Its lifespan can vary widely depending on the answer to this question.
• passers-by: are they doubled?

THE CASUAL BELT

In a more relaxed context, we can play more on the material, the shape...

We can approach less classic textures or favor sophisticated finishes such as braiding or the originality of the buckle.

As you can see, while the formal belt is worn discreetly, its casual cousin allows for more eccentricity.

Here again, you will have to pay particular attention to the quality of the product. No matter the material, it must be sufficiently robust . For suede leather, for example, prefer calfskin to lambskin. In the same way, choose dense wool or thick cotton, which guarantee optimal strength on a braided belt.

And as always, pay attention to the finishes: brass buckle and clean stitching are (almost) always signs of good quality.

Here, don't hesitate to play with materials to display powerful contrasts and enrich your look .

HOW TO CHOOSE A BELT?

THE SIZE

After selecting the model that suits you, the first thing to do is choose the right size .

Ideally, the buckle should go through the 3rd hole when your belt is closed . Since traditional models generally have five holes, the result is more harmonious when the buckle stops on the middle one.

Also, the strip should not stick out too much once inserted into the belt loop of your pants.

THE WIDTH

To determine the ideal width of your belt, we generally use the same distinction as before: for a formal occasion, and therefore with suit trousers, we will choose a fairly thin model (between 2.5 and 3.5 cm), discreet.

On the other hand, jeans or chinos will more easily accept a belt 4 or even 5 cm wide , thanks to its generous belt loops. However, try to stay reasonable: it is a style enhancer and not a trophy to display.

THE COLOR

Same fight for color! On a dressy outfit, we will try to match the color of our belt to that of our shoes: we create a reminder between the elements of the outfit, without overdoing it.

Be careful, however , not to stray too far from the classic black or brown , which is understated and effective.

For a casual look, you can allow yourself a little more freedom.

This can be an opportunity to twist your outfit, to bring a touch of the unexpected or, on the contrary, to recall an accessory. In short, have fun.

THE LOOP

On a formal belt, the only possible buckle is rectangular (or very slightly rounded), silver, with a simple pin.

Gold or bronze seem too difficult to wear as is and the original shapes (round, hexagonal, etc.) bring an eccentricity that is not welcome in a classic look.

Similarly, a double (or triple) pin would be too heavy on a belt no wider than 3.5 cm. Think simplicity.

On a casual belt, you have more room to maneuver. Again, it's all about dosage...

Adopt an original clasp if and only if you have not already gone crazy on the color and width of your piece. Trust yourself, you will notice it if the result is shocking.

I would add that a belt buckle that matches the color of a ring/watch can really create a nice visual added value.

AUDACITY, MORE AUDACITY, ALWAYS AUDACITY

THE PATINA BELT

As we have seen, matching your belt to your shoes is essential for a formal look, but how do you do it when you are wearing patinated shoes? (For a quick reminder on the concept of patina, it is by AustriAlpin was to make an incredibly solid buckle, easy to handle and absolutely not afraid of weather conditions. And it succeeded!

The result? This buckle with extraordinary attributes (look at me in "The Martian ", these are Cobra buckles that equip Matt Damon's space suit. In " Avengers ", it's still a Cobra buckle that adorns Scarlett Johnson's suit...

It's these little details that have propelled the Cobra buckle to the forefront, and many brands have already adopted it.

Here are my suggestions:

• a good old Google/Amazon search by typing "Cobra buckle belt" will give you a choice, including among the tiny American "tactical gear" brands, which offer them at the lowest prices. In bulk, let's mention Viking Tactics , Klik Belts (they even have dog collars with the Cobra buckle!), Condor , Blue Alpha , or Bagjack : a Berlin brand, it is the one that develops and manufactures the bags for Acronym. So these are Bagjack belts with cobra buckles that appear on the Acronym e-shop photoshoots. I strongly suspect this little product placement of having widely popularized the cobra buckle in urban techwear.
• 1k corp : one of the first to make Cobra buckle belts that were specifically aimed at Acronym's clientele (and not "real" military personnel). He popularized a belt that can be tightened or loosened without undoing it, thanks to a system that is as simple as it is ingenious. For example, you are in a nice restaurant, you have a full stomach, you just have to pull on the "D ring" for a fraction of a second to add some slack to the belt while keeping it closed.

If the product is perfect, its customer service is catastrophic: little or no response to emails and above all a delivery time that can easily be counted in months (!!!). Apart from telling you to monitor its Instagram account almost daily (it is via Direct Message that you can order from it) and to arm yourself with patience, there is not much to do... or to say about the quality of the products. Also, do not forget that the excess strap that hangs very visibly is entirely part of the design, take it into account if you want a product that is as discreet as possible.

• Faced with 1kcorp's inertia, techwear fans are starting to turn to SRS . Probably run by a single person, the brand offers an equivalent product, cheaper and with more reasonable delivery times. As usual, everything goes through Instagram so don't expect to order on a proper e-commerce site.
• Alyx : a curious American design studio that expertly handles the cobra buckle. For example, it will add large chains or make a sublime white version . Very pretty, of course, but beware of the final price...

For my part, it's a 1KCorp belt that I was able to buy, after six months of waiting for delivery. Well, if it were up to me, I would wear one every day, as you get used to the little sound when you engage the buckle and the ease of doing or undoing it.

Sure, it's not really the belt to wear with jeans and boots, but if urban techwear piques your curiosity, I recommend you take the plunge.

BECOME A BLACK BELT IN STYLE

We know the history of this legendary accessory, we know when and how to wear it, we understand which size to choose and which color to favor, so let's now focus on some look ideas!

Here, Benoît, Geoffrey and Florian teach us how to wear a belt with a suit.

Fine, stealthy silver buckle, simple pin, color (and possibly material) matching that of the shoes. This subtle reminder structures the silhouette and enhances the whole.

In a casual chic look, the belt allows you to push the cursor further towards the casual or dressy side . It's all a question of measure and desires.

Here, the brown leather band echoes Luca's shoes and weekender, but the wide round buckle contrasts with the formalism of the tie.

If you don't want to take any risks with the material or width of the belt in this type of outfit, go for the originality of the buckle!

The opposite effect here: the buckle is classic but the color and material of the belt add a daring touch between the raw denim and the striped seersucker blazer.

Woven in an electric blue elastic canvas, this belt could be destabilizing but I like the work around the monochrome. In addition, the weaving delicately recalls the Milanese mesh of the watch.

With white pants, a thin braided leather belt always has its little effect. To be consumed without moderation as soon as the good weather returns!

On the other hand, only a fancy dress party on a ranch in the American Far West will justify wearing this type of item...

WHERE TO BUY YOUR BELT?

Here is a small, non-exhaustive selection of brands that you can turn to to enhance your wardrobe.

ENTRY LEVEL

Below you will find quality pieces for a budget of up to €60.

• Maison Standards : beautiful Italian calfskin for a belt 100% made in France, all for €59.
• LodinG: a wide selection of 100% full grain cowhide leather belts for €40.
• Billy Belt: the specialist in braided belts between €35 and €50.

MID-RANGE

For a good quality/price ratio between 60 and 80€, it's here:

• Atelier de la Venise Normande: a very robust smooth vegetable-tanned leather for €60.
• Atelier Particulier: again, €60 for a very beautiful full-grain cowhide leather belt with a zamak buckle.
• Filson : between €70 and €120, the brand offers extremely solid belts in American leather.

HIGH END

Between 80 and 150€, you can expect excellent quality leather and remarkable finishes.

• L'Aiglon : very beautiful pieces in calfskin or cowhide with beautiful work on the buckles, between €80 and €150.
• Anderson's : pretty models in leather and braided leather for around €80.
• Jacques et Demeter: 100% full-grain cowhide leather items made in Limoges, for €110 to €150.
• Sellerie l'Hôte : a saddler specializing in riding equipment... Who also makes belts of a "luxury" quality at a more affordable price! All to your measurements, and guaranteed for ten years! From 150€

LUXURY

Beyond €150, you treat yourself to unique expertise, exceptional (sometimes exotic) leathers and a lot of creative work.

• Hermès: this season, the house with the H is abandoning calfskin in favor of bull calf leather and is displaying a very original palladium buckle for an amount of around €800.
• Duret: the Parisian house offers a custom-made service for personalized belts for around €350.

MAINTAINING AND TAKING CARE OF YOUR PIECE

Buying a leather belt is an investment, sometimes a significant one, that should be considered in the long term.

To make it profitable, it is necessary to pay regular attention to it to optimize its life expectancy . You must therefore:

• waterproof it to protect it from exposure to rain,
• keep it as far away as possible from heat sources, which tend to dry out the leather,
• do not leave it in the sun for too long as this will discolor the leather,
• do not wear it every day because the belt needs to breathe,
• feed it regularly (at least every 6 months if possible) to prevent cracking: moisturizing milk, wax and/or special products will be your best friends provided they do not contain solvents.

NB: Also try to store it in a place protected from humidity and leave it unrolled as much as possible .

FINAL WORDS BEFORE I SHUT UP...

3000 words, various information, and a few tips later, here we are at the end of this belt guide!

3000 years, various innovations, and a few creations later, we are not yet at the end of the history of this essential basic of the male wardrobe.

Sometimes decorative, sometimes utilitarian, the belt today takes on both characteristics and draws its essence from this dual identity.

At the beginning of this guide, we wondered whether the belt had a purely practical or exclusively aesthetic purpose, but the answer is now clear: both, my captain!

Versatile, mixed, hybrid, this piece combines the useful with the pleasant and is now essential in the wardrobe of any man who knows that without a belt, the shock is harder.