Tips: How to choose and wear boots?

“Ankle boot: high-top shoe with buttons, laces or elastics,” says Larousse. But still ?

Of all the “families” of shoes, that of ankle boots is undoubtedly the most extensive. Originally a purely utility shoe, they have gradually become an essential in our wardrobe: whether we prefer Chelsea boots or combat boots, most of us own at least one pair.

You guessed it: we're going to sift through a number of models together. But before getting to the heart of the matter, a little preamble is necessary!

You want me to tell you ? It's an anxiety inherited from women's fashion, which has no reason to be on our side.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, men's boots do not go high enough to have that "bastard" look. We're not talking about waders or jockey boots. Relax, there is nothing to worry about .

We can never repeat it enough: a good pair of shoes, with a beautiful design and careful tailoring, you pay for. So what should we look at?

For all skins, the rule remains the same: the leather is without nerves or scars, it is supple and has a regular grain.

Also be careful with “ bookbinded ” leather. This is a finish which gives a satin effect to the shoe, but which risks cracking if it is not done well. Basically, it's a kind of plastic wrap that becomes very visible on crease areas with use.

Each assembly has its own advantage.

Blake allows you to obtain fine and elegant lines, Goodyear is known to be easily resoled, Norwegian is reputed to be the most robust... In any case, avoid simply glued assemblies . They will not last over time and your shoes will lose their shape.

On the seam side, check that they are close together and regular . Please note, it happens that the sewing around the sole is only ornamental: do not hesitate to ask for confirmation from the brand or the sellers.

That being said, we can now tackle the big part!

Originally from Scotland, the brogue was designed to face the country's most hostile marshes. For good reason, the flowered ends at the end of the boots, formerly actually pierced, were a means of draining off the water that accumulated inside.

Faithful to their origins, they bring an appreciable “adventurer” side. Denim will always highlight them, as will pants with a focus on texture.

In recent years, there have been two schools when it comes to soles. On one side, the leather sole purists; on the other, fans of rubber soles.

There is no better version. Simply, a pair with a rubber sole will give a more workwear touch to your looks. Let's look at some examples.

Coming from the military world, Chelsea boots appeared on the streets in the mid-19th century. Queen Victoria even used to wear them for horse riding. We recognize them by their elastic which allows us to put them on easily.

With a boom in the 1960s - thanks to the Beatles - they have remained timeless ever since, both in men's and women's wardrobes.

In my opinion, Chelsea boots are among the only boots that can be worn with a suit .

Small downside however: people with wide feet will find it more difficult to find what they are looking for because it is basically a narrow shoe.

Practical thanks to their zip, they will appeal to those who don't like the elastic of Chelsea boots.

Unlike the previous ones, we often find thicker leather here, as well as a more imposing sole. They are also a good compromise, comfortable in several different styles.

They are found in both smooth leather and suede with a patina. Personally, I recommend the second: I find that it brings a little more originality and creates interesting variations with leather jackets.

Desert boots, with their two or three pairs of eyelets, belong to the chukka family. Generally in calfskin or nubuck, they are differentiated by a raw and irregular rubber sole called "crepe".

Developed in the 1940s by Nathan Clark, they are inspired by the shoes worn by soldiers on missions in the North African deserts. Both breathable and durable, they quickly become a basic in their own right.

Icon of the casual ankle boot, desert boots are suitable for all body types and will blend into all your casual outfits.

I am deliberately remaining succinct here: we have already devoted a complete article to them.

The most masculine: combat boots

Just like Chelsea boots or desert boots, combat boots are a war heritage. More recent, during the Second World War, they had the mandate to offer soldiers the comfort and robustness they needed.

They are distinguished by a capped toe, (mostly) rubber soles, and eyelets that there are often between 7 and 10 pairs, sometimes more. These shoes have taken various forms, such as the ranger, to name but a few, which can be recognized by its side zip or its double buckle.

With naturally worn jeans or taupe-colored chinos, a khaki trench or a leather jacket, combat boots reveal all their power.

Obviously casual, they instantly give character to an outfit . They exude something very masculine, much less precious than the other pieces in this article. They are also very widespread in certain subcultures, such as punk or rock.

Following this logic, keep spontaneity by putting together your looks with combat boots. They are not meant to be overintellectualized .

The world of walking shoes is divided into two worlds: the hiker boots that you can find at Decathlon, and the others which have a sophisticated line and beautiful leather.

We are talking about authentic leather and lace-up models, with a thick sole, which are waterproof.

Well, if you are neither Canadian nor on a weekend in Russia, the investment may not be vital for city life, but who knows.

For now, we must fully exploit the map of their origins . Don't hesitate to wear them with a chunky knit, a thick coat, technical materials... It would be futile to try to take them out of their world, they are far too marked for that. This is also what makes it a model to be reserved for the most informed.

We end with a small, non-exhaustive selection of brands to browse. Keep in mind that a brand rarely offers just one type of boot, so don't hesitate to browse their ranges!

• Loding : correct manufacturing with a good quality/price ratio, it is a relevant entry point into the world of beautiful shoes.
• Meermin : undoubtedly one of the best alternatives on the market, with handmade manufacturing.
• Bobbies : colorful shoes, always with a little twist, which easily brighten up an outfit.
• Clarks : historic manufacturer of desert boots, the offering has now diversified.
• Paire & Fils : models with clean lines, with a real search for the right price.

• Grenson : English brand, it's my first instinct when we talk about "brogues". There is a line made in England
• Atelier Voisin: zipped ankle boots, cut from washed leather for a beautiful patina.
• Pete Sorensen : brand with a very strong rock identity. If these influences speak to you, check out their Phantom model.
• Crockett & Jones : historic name of footwear across the Channel, it relies on precise know-how for durable Goodyears.
• Red Wing and Wolverine : two brands well known to workwear enthusiasts, they draw their inspiration from old American workwear.
• Septième Largeur : beautiful brand also offering a patina service. We also like their product presentations.
• Carmina : stylish shoes, which exude great elegance. You will also find a fairly extensive range of cordovan.

• JM Weston : French, contrary to what its name suggests, Weston is distinguished in particular by its Chelsea one-cut boots ,
• John Lobb : impeccable tailoring from this brand, which even offers a measuring service.
• Berluti : if only for their patinas, the brand is worth the detour.

If you want to explore the topic further, Jordan has written a series of articles:

When it comes to ankle boots, the choice is wide. And again, we haven't looked at double-buckle high boots or jodhpurs...

Each type of boot has its influences. Despite everything, nothing is set in stone: have fun with the codes to reclaim them.

Finally, we will remember some maintenance rules so that they last as long as possible.

And you, which ankle boots do you prefer? How do you wear them? Tell us in the comments.

Thanks to the Tanneries d'Annonay and our Barker Shoes workshop, we have developed real bootmaking know-how: assembly in England from A to Z.