Summary
Stop limiting beliefs The quality criteria of a shoe The most British: brogue-style ankle boots The most elegant: Chelsea boots The most urban: zip ankle boots The most casual: desert boots The most masculine: combat boots The most sporty: hiker boots Our selection: where to buy boots? The last word... Without forgetting our own shoes..."Boot boot: high shoe with buttons, laces or elastics" , Larousse tells us. But what else?
Of all the shoe "families", the ankle boot is probably the most extensive. Originally a purely utilitarian shoe, it has gradually become an essential part of our wardrobe: whether we prefer Chelsea or combat boots, most of us own at least one pair.
You guessed it: we're going to sift through a number of models together. But before getting to the heart of the matter, a little preamble is in order!
Stop limiting beliefs
You want me to tell you? It's an anxiety inherited from women's fashion, which has no place on our side.
In the overwhelming majority of cases, men's boots don't come up high enough to have that "bastard" look. We're not talking about thigh-high boots or jockey boots. Relax, there's nothing to worry about .
No problem on the horizon, the silhouette is proportionate. Boots often have large soles, which can even allow you to gain a few centimeters.
The quality criteria of a shoe
We can never say it enough: a good pair of shoes, with a beautiful line and careful manufacturing, has to be paid for. So, what should we look at?
The base: leather
For all skins, the rule remains the same: the leather is without nerves or scars, it is supple and has a regular grain.
Also be careful with book - bound leathers. This is a finish that gives the shoe a satin effect, but it can crack if it is not done properly. Basically, it is a kind of plastic film that becomes very visible on the crease areas with use.
A leather with deep nuances, supple and regular.
Assembly, function of longevity
Each assembly has its advantage.
Blake allows for fine and elegant lines, Goodyear is known for being easily resoled, Norwegian is considered the most robust... In any case, avoid simply glued assemblies . They will not hold up over time and your shoes will lose their shape.
As for the seams, check that they are close together and regular . Be careful, it may happen that the seam around the sole is only decorative: do not hesitate to ask the brand or the sellers for confirmation.
Solid construction + cordovan leather = shoes ready for more than 10 years
Note: Recognizing the quality of a shoe is a subject that we have already covered extensively. For more information on the subject, do not hesitate to (re)read the first part of the guide on leather , and the second on assembly .
That being said, we can now tackle the big part!
The most British: brogue-style ankle boots
Originating in Scotland, the brogue was designed to withstand the country's harshest marshes. The reason for this is that the flowery tips on the toes of the boots, once actually pierced, were a way to drain away the water that accumulated inside.
True to their origins, they bring an appreciable "adventurer" side. Denim will always highlight them, as will pants with a research on texture.
In recent years, there have been two schools of thought regarding soles. On one side, the purists of leather soles; on the other, the lovers of rubber soles.
© Grenson
Here, the white soles completely change the appearance of the pair.
© Grenson
Devastating with a good pair of raw jeans!
There is no best version. Simply, a pair with a rubber sole will give a more workwear touch to your looks. Let's look at some examples.
Jeans, denim jacket patched at the elbows... This time, we are clearly on a workwear-inspired look. The patina of the boots is an integral part of the outfit, it gives it a lot of character. Here, the rubber sole lends itself well to the look since it also gives off a "raw" side.
This look is more sartorial. The boots are very present and relax the outfit, why does it work? Cognac leather is a safe bet for associations of this kind, it introduces a certain refinement. This is all the more true here since it is patinated on the toe, recalling the velvet pants in passing. Moreover, the upper part of the shoe is hidden by the pants: we are getting closer to the rendering of a derby, which is accentuated by the leather sole.
The combination with flannel pants is also interesting. Don't hesitate to play on contrasts!
The most elegant: Chelsea boots
Coming from the military world, Chelsea boots appeared on the streets in the mid-19th century. Queen Victoria even used to wear them for horse riding. They are recognizable by their elastic that allows us to put them on easily.
With a boom in the 1960s - thank you Beatles - they have remained a timeless classic, both in men's and women's wardrobes.
In my opinion, Chelsea boots are among the only boots that can be worn with a suit .
The pants seem to fall well on the shoes, the colors of the wool and the leather contrast nicely: we remain on something elegant. Be careful though, some purists consider this association as a heresy (one should not wear ankle boots with a suit)... But beyond any dogma, the result remains interesting.
This ease of wearing with a suit makes it an ally of choice for casual chic outfits. As here, opt for a long coat (it also works with a trench coat in spring), well-cut jeans or chinos, and a nice shirt.
Chelsea boots are increasingly being found in streetwear looks. Jeans, a sweatshirt and a bomber jacket will do the trick: the boots will contrast, bringing sophistication to the look. It would still work with sneakers, of course, but the effect would not be the same at all.
Small downside however: people with wide feet will have a harder time finding what they are looking for because it is basically a narrow shoe.
The most urban: zipped ankle boots
Practical thanks to their zip, they will appeal to those who don't like the elastic of Chelsea boots.
Unlike the previous ones, we often find thicker leather here, as well as a more imposing sole. They are also a good compromise, comfortable in several different styles.
They are available in both smooth leather and suede with a patina. Personally, I recommend the latter: I find that it brings a little more originality and creates interesting variations with leather jackets.
Here in a full black version, the whole is racy. Each piece has a different texture, even the leather of the jacket and shoes is not worked in the same way. This avoids a look that is too smooth or monotonous. Swap the perfecto for any jacket, it will also work.
They also find their place in simpler looks. These are shoes with a "comfort" spirit, don't hesitate to wear them with good basics for an effective outfit.
The most casual: desert boots
Desert boots, with their two or three pairs of eyelets, belong to the chukka family. Generally made of calfskin or nubuck, they are distinguished by a raw and irregular rubber sole called "crepe".
Developed in the 1940s by Nathan Clark, they were inspired by the shoes worn by soldiers on missions in the North African deserts. Breathable and durable, they quickly became a basic in their own right.
An icon of casual ankle boots, desert boots suit all body types and will blend into all your casual outfits.
I am deliberately keeping it brief here: we have already devoted a full article to them.
The most masculine: combat boots
Like Chelsea or desert boots, combat boots are a legacy of war. More recent, during the Second World War, they had the mandate to offer soldiers the comfort and robustness they needed.
They are distinguished by a shell toe, soles (mostly) made of rubber, and eyelets that often number between 7 and 10 pairs, sometimes more. These shoes have taken various forms, such as the ranger, to name just one, which can be recognized by its side zip or double buckle.
Dr Martens, a good reference in this area.
With naturally worn jeans or taupe-colored chinos, a khaki trench coat or a leather jacket, combat boots reveal all their power.
Obviously casual, they have the effect of instantly giving character to an outfit . They give off something very masculine, much less precious than the other pieces in this article. They are also very widespread in certain subcultures, such as punk or rock.
Following this logic, keep spontaneity by putting together your looks with combat boots. They are not made to be over-intellectualized .
Here, everything is done to emphasize the raw dimension of the shoes. Luca plays on layering, bringing a form of spontaneity and nonchalance. The perfecto, a "badass" jacket par excellence, echoes the boots. If he chooses to wear his jeans over them, you can obviously tuck him into them.
With his rangers and his double-breasted coat, Rémi reappropriates the codes of military attire. These boots are ideal for slender physiques: they highlight the silhouette, especially since he worked his look around dark shades only. (BonneGueule coat, Uniqlo sweater, COS pants, Common Projects boots, all from old collections)
The most sporty: hiker boots
The world of walking shoes is divided into two worlds: hiker boots that you can find at Decathlon, and others that have a sophisticated line and beautiful leather.
Well, that's not what we're talking about. That said, Decathlon products are perfectly fine if you use them for their intended purpose: playing sports.
We are talking about authentic leather and lace-up models, with a thick soles, which are waterproof.
Well, if you're neither Canadian nor on a weekend trip to Russia, the investment may not be vital for city life, but who knows.
For this, you have to fully exploit the card of their origins . Don't hesitate to wear them with a big knit, a thick coat, technical materials... It would be futile to try to take them out of their universe, they are far too marked for that. This is also what makes it a model to be reserved for the most knowledgeable.
Danner model.
Looking at Nick Wooster in his pea coat and boots, you'd think he was on an expedition to Greenland. In other words, he's having fun with the DNA of shoes by integrating them into a very workwear look. Note the cut of his jeans: with fitted pants, you'll create a contrast between the narrow leg opening and the imposing shoes. Don't look for fitted pieces here, quite the contrary!
Our selection: where to buy boots?
We'll end with a small, non-exhaustive selection of brands to rummage through. Keep in mind that a brand rarely offers just one type of boot, so don't hesitate to browse their ranges!
Updated 2024: We have a dedicated page on our site with up-to-date brand recommendations for boots (and leather shoes). Just click here to access it . Enjoy reading!
Entry level
- Loding : a correct confection with a good quality/price ratio, it is a relevant entry point into the world of beautiful shoes.
- Meermin : probably one of the best alternatives on the market, with handmade manufacturing.
- Bobbies : colorful shoes, always with a little twist, which easily brighten up an outfit.
- Clarks : a historic manufacturer of desert boots, the offering has now diversified.
- Paire & Fils : models with clean lines, with a real search for the right price.
Mid-range
- Grenson : English brand, it's my first reflex when we talk about "brogues". There is a line made in England
- Atelier Voisin: ankle boots, notably zipped, cut from washed leather for a beautiful patina.
- Pete Sorensen : a brand with a very strong rock identity. If these influences speak to you, check out their Phantom model.
- Crockett & Jones : a historic name in footwear from across the Channel, it relies on precise know-how for durable Goodyear welted shoes.
- Red Wing and Wolverine : two brands well-known to workwear enthusiasts, they draw their inspiration from old American workwear.
- Seventh Width : beautiful brand that also offers a patina service. We also like their product presentations.
- Carmina : classy shoes that exude a real elegance. You will also find a fairly extensive range in cordovan.
High-end
- JM Weston : French, contrary to what its name suggests, Weston stands out in particular for its one-cut Chelsea boots ,
- John Lobb : impeccable tailoring from this brand, which even offers a measuring service.
- Berluti : if only for their patinas, the brand is worth a look.
If you want to delve deeper into the topic, Jordan has written a series of articles:
The final word...
When it comes to ankle boots, there's a wide choice. And we haven't even looked at high-top double-buckle boots or jodhpurs...
Each type of boot has its influences. Despite everything, nothing is set in stone: have fun with the codes to make them your own.
Finally, we will remember some maintenance rules so that they last as long as possible.
And you, which ankle boots do you prefer? How do you wear them? Tell us in the comments.
Not forgetting our own shoes...
Thanks to the Tanneries d'Annonay and our Barker Shoes workshop, we have developed real shoemaking expertise: assembly in England from A to Z.
