Tips: how to maintain your leather shoes?

In previous files, we have already discussed how to recognize the quality of a shoe when purchasing it, as well as the different styles of shoes that every man must own.

No one will be surprised that we are now talking about a part that is certainly a little less fun, but just as important in the life of the gentleman that you are: the interview.

Between the must-have accessories , the choice of products and the right methods to take good care of your shoes, there's plenty to get lost in.

So here, just for you, is everything you need to know on the subject.

Their presence in your shoes is the sine qua non condition for their longevity, which means that it is an important purchase not to be neglected.

We very (really, very) highly recommend wooden shoe trees ! They absorb moisture better and are much more robust than those made of plastic.

Bexley offers good models from €30, with decreasing prices (4 pairs for €60).

The scraper cleans the surface of the leather using a very dense horsehair. Practical for everyday use, it should only be used for dusting and preparation for cleaning.

Saphir offers a model for €13.

It will restore the shine to the leather when you have applied a cream or polish. The hair is more flexible here, so as not to damage the thin layers of shoe polish on the surface. All prices for this item ranging from €10 to €30 at Monsieur Chaussure.

A crepe or brass brush is essential to preserve the velvet appearance of suede and nubuck leathers. Depending on the model, it is generally between €5 and €10.

The palot brush is used to apply shoe polish and is therefore much smaller than the others. At €5 at Bexley, it should be more than enough. If possible, take one light and one dark, or one dedicated to cream and the other to shoe polish, to avoid mixing colors.

The chamois allows you to polish the shoe after polishing or glazing. It is not essential, but if you are not close to 4€...

The poached thread brush will be used by owners of shoes fitted with Goodyear, in order to nourish the welt as well as the sewing thread.

We do not have any shares in Saphir but it is clear that, for a very reasonable price, their products enjoy excellent quality. So yes, we will quote them often...

Nourish smooth leather

The cleaning milk helps to clean the leather deeply, thus preventing it from drying out, cracking, etc. It often contains a little alcohol but should not be too aggressive.

Saphir's universal cream is practical and not too expensive (10€ for 150ml). In case of stains or for annual cleaning, Réno'Mat milk works well: it is more scouring.

Nourishing creams based on beeswax are ideal for nourishing the leather and restoring its suppleness . There are colorless ones that fit all smooth shoes, but they can leave a whitish deposit after a certain time.

We therefore recommend colored references, to be chosen slightly darker than the shade of the shoe to be maintained.

Shoe polish , generally considered a nourishing product, is in fact primarily intended to stay on the surface. It shines and can also add superb nuances: a blue polish on black leather - or mahogany on brown - gives very beautiful results, especially if you glaze the shoe.

Saphir luxury pastes cost around €4 per pot, which allows you to buy several to have fun with the shades!

Suede eraser (€5 to €10) allows you to remove superficial stains of dust, dirt, etc.

Saphir's "Omnidaim" milk will help you clean more stubborn stains such as grease or tar... which can be very useful! The product costs around fifteen euros.

Finally, the renovator will nourish, re-color and waterproof the shoe. You cannot put any fatty substances on suede or nubuck, that goes without saying, so this product comes in spray form.

Here again and if possible, choose a shade a little darker than that of the leather. You will have to pay around twenty euros for the “gold medal” Sapphire.

To go further, here is our article on the maintenance of suede leather (nubuck, velvet, suede) .

You will see that there is really nothing complicated. After each wearing, give them a quick brush to dust them off, and slide the shoe trees in so as to stretch the leather.

Then, if you have had a downpour, don't panic: the shoes can easily withstand a few drops... However, when you get home, the ideal is to stuff them with newspaper and put them on the side to dry, so that the moisture contained in the sole can evaporate.

Without forgetting the shoe trees of course!

On the other hand, never place them next to a heat source , especially if they are damp. This dries out the leather and can cause it to crack. Absolutely avoid!

In addition to the daily actions that we have just seen, it will be impossible to escape: you will have to use your strong arms to clean and pamper your shoes. An operation that would be good to repeat once or twice a month, depending on the frequency of wearing .

The objective is to rid the leather of polishes and other polishes and to nourish it. We will distinguish the maintenance of smooth leather shoes from those in suede leather, we will tell you more just below 😉

Unless you have leather laces, be aware that it is best to remove them from the shoe before handling.

Using a scrubbing brush, scrub the skin vigorously to remove surface dust and dirt . We don't forget the edges of the sole and various seams (Goodyear, Norwegian seams, etc.).

Then, using a cloth carefully wrapped around the middle and index fingers, you will literally have to clean the leather . Apply a little universal milk to the cotton cloth and rub in a circular manner, paying particular attention to the creases.

The objective is not to strip the leather (which we will see later) but rather to rid it of dirt.

In principle, the layers of shoe polish and any excess cream previously applied will be deposited on the fabric. Don't hesitate now to drink a good cold beer and take a break of around ten minutes, to give the product time to soak in and evaporate.

The second step will be more pleasant and less “tiring”: it involves creaming the leather, i.e. applying a nourishing cream .

With a clean cloth, rolled flat over the middle and index fingers, take a small quantity of cream and apply it again in a circular manner.

When the cream has penetrated the leather, which very often takes on a matte appearance, you can leave it for a good quarter of an hour and take another sip.

Once everyone is perfectly rehydrated, grab your best horsehair brush and gently rub the shoes to make them shine . For those in a hurry among you, we can consider that the interview phase is over!

On the other hand, for those who like to work on the shine and nuances of their shoes, the polishing stage can begin: it is the most “fun”, and above all the one which allows real “personalization”.

Using a small paddle brush, tap your paste then distribute it in circular movements over the entire surface of the shoe, or on the front and back depending on the effect you want to create.

Here again, 10 minutes of rest, then use small, energetic but light brush strokes to create the desired shine! This also works with shearling, typically those found in maintenance boxes.

This video, shot with Septième Largeur , summarizes all these tips well (you can find it at the very top of the article!).

Finally, for fans of ends with a mirror shine , we will finish with the icing. This operation consists of creating an emulsion from shoe polish and water, so that they form an extremely shiny varnish on the surface.

Take your very smooth cloth, always placed around the index and middle fingers, providing a small glass of water and your shoe polish paste. After soaking and slightly drying the cloth, take a little paste using circular movements.

The hardest part is yet to come... because you will have to apply all of this with prodigious vigor on the toe of your shoe, always making circular movements. When the skin seems smooth and dry, with no visible traces of waxing, you can repeat the operation.

On leather that has never been polished, it can take a good quarter of an hour and three or four coats before achieving the desired result.

We made a video with Monsieur Chaussure to illustrate this. If you encounter any difficulty, do not hesitate to contact a good shoemaker who can make the first icing for you and show you how to do the following ones.

We all know that our beloved desert boots can take on a rootsy side for a yes or a no. A scrape on the sidewalk, a drop of sauce - or worse, wine - falling on it, a summer shower with dirty drops: the velvet-finish skin absorbs everything and stains very easily, without the eraser always being effective.

So let's start with the scraper brush to remove the biggest part on the surface (this will be useful). With your brass or crepe brush, polish the leather by brushing in a circular manner: there is no need to spend three hours, just a few strokes are enough.

This is the ideal time to apply the cleanser , usually sold in foam form. After a few minutes, brush with the cleaned scraper.

Finally, we finish by spraying the renovator which must be left to act for around a quarter of an hour. A little crepe brush, and there you have your beautiful shoes again!

Shoe polish tends to clog the pores of the leather and prevent the penetration of nourishing creams. It is therefore essential to rid the leather of these obstructing layers once or twice a year. Two solutions are available to you:

• The hair dryer option , the easiest, allows you to melt the layers of shoe polish which can be removed with a universal cream by rubbing vigorously.

• The Réno'Mat style "stripping" option , more effective. This product - to be used outdoors to avoid vapors - will clean the leather in depth, although care must be taken when using it on overly sensitive leather.

After this operation, whatever option you choose, you will need to cream and wax the shoe again.

A Goodyear assembly, or welt stitched (artisanal), involves the presence of a strip of leather between the upper and the sole, firmly sewn using a smooth thread.

It is then advisable to use seal fat once a year which, rest assured, no longer contains animal fats. This will restore flexibility to the sole and prevent the thread from deteriorating.

Your Goodyear-welted brogues are your very first great pair of shoes. For 10 years they have given you this look that is both relaxed and elegant, and you hold on to it... Only, time and wear have passed by and they are seriously starting to wear out.

Goodyear (industrial) and welt-stitched (artisanal) assemblies allow the sole to be removed and remade.

You will need to find a shoemaker worthy of the name and budget between €100 and €150 for the entire operation.

This worth the pain ! A well-maintained, quality shoe will, as is often the case, improve over time. Think about it before throwing out a pair. 😉

It is possible to completely rethink the color of the leather or restore its full depth. There are still a few dyers and shoemakers capable of depigmenting and then dyeing skins with talent, sometimes going so far as to create the most extravagant patinas.

Here again, it's an excellent way to bring an old, well-preserved pair up to date, to make it a very personal piece of your wardrobe.

Obviously, you will have to find a good address to avoid disasters. This “intervention” costs roughly €50 to €100, depending on the nuances you want to add to your shoe.

For more information, read our article on what repairs a shoemaker can do to your shoes .

Here is most of what you need to know about shoe care. Equip yourself with the right tools and patience! These are generally expensive pieces that we hold dear: they will thank you for it.

Having consulted several shoemakers - some of them particularly renowned - I was surprised to see that each ultimately had their own little ritual: again, it is by no means an exact science...