Tips: How to choose men's shoes that suit your style?

Choosing quality shoes is important, but that's not all that matters! You regularly ask us which pair to choose for which occasion .

There are several families of dress shoes, not all of which work with the same outfit. Choosing the right shoes can add a formal touch to an outfit or, conversely, make it more casual. It's up to you to appropriate the codes to better reinterpret them.

NO BEAUTIFUL SHOES WITHOUT QUALITY MATERIALS

You should always keep in mind that the beauty of a pair depends on its quality. All this is explained in our guide to choosing your shoes .

A perfectly made product, with noble materials, is beautiful no matter what. Conversely, a poor quality product immediately detracts from your outfit.

Before even talking about style, make sure you have a sewn or glued-sewn construction , whether it's Blake, Goodyear/welted, Norwegian stitched... Regularity and robustness are two key words!

For the material, choose a well-tanned leather with a deep color, a pleasant and sensual touch, but above all no marked creases from the first step!

In terms of price, with a few exceptions, it is difficult to find a very good quality, durable and well-made shoe for less than €200 ( excluding sales ).

Add to that around fifty euros for a pair of shoe trees, a cleansing milk, a nourishing/tinting cream and a shoe polish, and you will make an investment that you will surely not regret!

Attention, cult video : Olga Berluti explains to you in her suave voice how to take care of your shoes. A great moment of sensuality...

If you are really short financially, it is better to wait for the sales... Although the prices are unbeatable, you will not find anything durable or of quality at Eram, Gémo, La Halle or other mass-market brands.

THE MOST CLASSIC: OXFORDS FOR MEN

Originally, Richelieu shoes were extremely formal and noble. They are the perfect model to wear with a suit . Their elegance is due to their great finesse , the purity of its lines. We recognize the Richelieu by two things:

• No flaps. The upper, simply split, moves apart to let the foot pass through when putting it on: this is called closed lacing. Once laced, the shoe therefore regains a fine line, as close as possible to the foot.
• A Blake or similar construction, i.e. without a welt, the exterior seams of which could weigh down the line of the shoe.

Often made from a single cut of leather, the Richelieu is the most elongated model, with a tapered shape most of the time.

Some perforated models with a thicker sole are called "brogues" , they also come in derby versions. Several contemporary interpretations of the Richelieu divert their first formal use, with many twists that bring novelty.

HOW TO WEAR OXFORD SHOES?

It is better to start gently and respect the codes of formal elegance . Diversions are possible, but it is truly in a very formal outfit that Richelieu shoes are best highlighted.

For a more relaxed atmosphere, models worked in a less strict spirit offer beautiful proposals. Jeans and chinos will go very well with the weekend Richelieu on one condition: avoid the pair of all-black, all (too?) simple Richelieu!

WHERE TO FIND RICHELIEU?

• €: Bexley offers models starting at €139, but the leather tends to mark at the comfort fold. Orban's is an extremely interesting alternative!
• €€: Septième Largeur has some nice models around €250.
• €€€: Berluti is one of the kings of Richelieu, offering some pretty exceptional iced patinas... for over €1,500. More affordable: Altan or Carmina .

THE FORMAL ALTERNATIVE: THE DERBY FOR MEN

Eternal rivals of the Richelieu, the derby shoes try to win the elegant shoe match despite their coarse lacing tab.

Unlike the first ones, they are in fact composed of two separate inserts closed by the laces, which widens the line of the shoe. It is not surprising that many derbies are built in Goodyear, the thickness and width of the sole being then consistent with the country origin of this shoe.

This does not mean that they lack elegance, quite the contrary! I would tend to say that they are symptomatic of a very modern elegance, combining comfort AND style.

The derby rightly allows itself a few deviations from smooth leathers to occasionally prefer grained leathers, with a more rustic look, or even suede leathers, subtly relaxed.

HOW TO WEAR DERBY?

Suede models lend themselves well to a fairly casual universe .

On the other hand, smooth leather models, even those with chunky soles, work well with flannel pants.

WHERE TO FIND DERBY?

• €: Duggers of London starts from £79, to help out or get started.
• €€: Bowen has sturdy, classic (almost retro) models around €300. Grenson starts at €230.
• €€€: Church , despite a predictable drop in quality since its acquisition by Prada, has some very nice pieces starting at €500. Weston and its half-hunt model are also essential.

THE MOST ITALIAN: THE DOUBLE-LOOP

Somewhat forgotten during the 2000s, monk straps have been making a strong comeback in recent seasons, reaffirming their status as a mainstay of men's shoes.

A flap closed by one or more metal buckles replaces the traditional lacing, offering an alternative and above all extremely practical aesthetic.

Unlike the double-loop model, the simple model is shunned by young people, who still find it too old-fashioned and conservative.

Classic monk shoes are Blake-built (for finesse), and often feature a straight toe, which is a leather insert sewn to the end of the shoe (as above).

It is a particularly elegant shoe, which can easily lend itself to informal use.

The classic versions are enough to bring an original touch to an outfit, especially in a casual context, but the success of double buckles has led some designers to rethink them. The sole, style and shades are then subject to various interpretations: suede leather, colored rubber soles...

HOW TO WEAR DOUBLE-MONKEY SHOES?

Obviously, they go wonderfully with a suit, even more so if you have a slightly retro cut (double-breasted jacket, Prince of Wales pattern, etc.).

In casual version, it's just as simple. You can wear classic double-earrings with jeans and even a t-shirt, or opt for a more casual pair.

WHERE TO FIND DOUBLE-LOOPS?

• €: Meermin offers excellent value for money on this particular type of shoe, starting at €160.
• €€: The young French brand Jacques & Déméter , of which I tested a pair of double-earrings , offers a very high-quality product for a price much lower than those practiced in luxury. Around €350.
• €€€: Crockett & Jones, with classic shapes but very well made, around €520.

THE MOST PREPPY: MOCCASINS / LOAFERS FOR MEN

Among shoes, these are probably the most divisive, although they are very present. The public seems to be gradually reconnecting with this comfortable, light, simple and elegant model.

Moccasins never have laces and can have a heel: they are often mounted on a leather sole. Some are known for their rubber stud sole, sometimes called drivers .

There is also a type of assembly called "moccasin" or "tubular", thanks to which the leather is "wrapped" around the foot: the piece of leather used to make the sole goes up the sides of the shoe, giving rise to these famous recognizable seams. Quite a program.

HOW TO WEAR LOAFERS?

The three-piece Prince of Wales check, or tuxedo, and loafer combo is possible. For those who may not get to walk the Oscars red carpet, there is still hope.

For casual wear, a shirt and jeans will do the trick, allowing you to stand out without overdoing it.

In formal wear, you can make cool combinations from the blazer/shirt/tie trio, leaving behind the suit pants in favor of pleated chinos. This way, you have a distinguished outfit that remains easy to wear.

WHERE TO FIND MOCCASINS?

• €: Sebago , from €130.
• €€: Velasca , very Italian models from €200.
• €€€: Salvatore Ferragamo , a house with an incredible history that I hope to tell you about soon, starts at €450.

THE MOST ENGLISH: THE CHELSEA BOOT FOR MEN

It is a fine and refined model, composed of a single large leather insert on the front, recognizable by the elastic band at the side ankle.

It is also interesting when it takes on a "rider" spirit, in a beautiful, smooth brown leather with a nice curve.

HOW TO WEAR CHELSEA BOOTS?

Dressy outfit: shirt and flannel pants in shades of navy blue with mahogany Chelsea boots - simple and effective. Casual, jeans, a shirt and that's it! A little reminder of leather at the belt can also be welcome.

An easy model for every occasion!

WHERE TO FIND CHELSEA BOOTS?

• €: Loding offers an affordable entry level at €180.
• €€: Atelier Voisin works on a Chelsea boot in a roots spirit for €300.
• €€€: Barnabera makes beautiful classic models for around €600.

THE MOST ADVENTUROUS: THE WINGTIP BOOT

A superb alternative to the Chelsea boot, the wingtip boot remains more confidential. Halfway between the derby and the combat boot, it often uses a Goodyear construction. Its leather is perforated to ennoble it, it can be glazed to go further in the dressed spirit.

It has the huge advantage of being elegant enough to suit a formal context, and reasonably casual if you want to enhance raw jeans or even velvet pants .

HOW TO WEAR WINGTIP BOOTS?

In casual wear, as usual, denim works very well with a knit on top; a shirt or even a t-shirt, although this style of shoe is more appropriate in winter.

In a dressy version, I like the idea of ​​continuing to play on ambivalence with casualness by starting with a textured wool suit, paired with a chambray shirt.

WHERE TO FIND WINGTIP BOOTS?

• €: Herring has a well-made model at €185.
• €€: Loake starts with classic wingtip styles at £240.
• €€€ : Carmina offers cordovan models for around €890. Not to mention Alden 's wingtips in real cordovan.

THE MOST CASUAL: DESERT / CHUKKA BOOTS FOR MEN

Absolute comfort, unique line, timelessness: you can't go wrong with a desert boot . This shoe with rounded lines has acquired the envied status of a basic in the men's wardrobe .

THE DESERT BOOT

It is characterized by several elements, starting with its crepe sole that is both flexible and comfortable. Purists will insist on evoking a shoe worked in suede leather. Summer and winter, it is true that suedes or nubucks dominate this family.

On the other hand, as you can imagine, it is not really dressed up and does not go well with formal trousers.

THE CHUKKA

This is a more chic version, with the same rounded shapes. They are ennobled by a leather sole, sometimes mounted in Blake but also in Goodyear. The result is finer, especially since they are often made from smooth leathers.

Even the big shoemakers have made this piece their own, which is practical for everyday wear.

HOW TO WEAR DESERT / CHUKKA BOOTS?

Let's keep it simple: the desert boot fits very well in a rather cool context...

...while the chukka will fit into a more elegant outfit .

WHERE TO FIND DESERT / CHUKKA BOOTS?

• €: Obviously Clarks , whose prices start at €130.
• €€: Kurt Geiger releases chukka models in suede leather with leather soles all year round for around €230.
• €€€: John Lobb , in ready-to-wear, has beautiful models starting at €1,100.

THE SPECIAL CASE OF HIGH BOOTS

Just for fun, let's talk about high boots. I discovered that they existed for men during a visit to a luxury boutique: a superb pair of riding-style boots proudly sat in the center of the shoe area. My curiosity getting the better of me, I tried them on.

Obviously, we are very very quickly out of context and I would not see myself wearing one. I was however struck by the incredible elegance that they bring. Like the cape for men, I think that this could be a piece likely to reappear...