Test: Bexley and entry-level shoes for men

THE PSYCHOLOGICAL THRESHOLD OF 200 EUROS

We must not forget that a majority of men find it strange, even inappropriate, to spend more than 200 euros on “pumps”.

At the same time, connoisseurs will affirm without batting an eyelid that this is the minimum threshold from which one can hope for a quality start. And they will estimate that from 300 euros, we are in a comfortable price range.

Being part of this last category, I believe it is time to reconcile ourselves with the first - that is to say a little more than 30 million men -.

If you think about it, there are many reasons that could prevent us from spending more than 200 euros on a pair of shoes:

• Your “office” shoes are worn out and you would like to dazzle your colleagues in other ways than with shiny John Lobbs, if possible (try humor, it costs less);
• You would like to try a new type of shoe - double buckles, ankle boots, etc. - without being sure you will like it very much. I think we've all paid a high price for a piece that we no longer liked three months later, the kind of mistake we bitterly regret;

• A moderate interest in dress shoes (your thing is striking red sneakers!).

A BRAND WITH A SPECIAL POSITIONING

BonneGueule is aimed at everyone, we were also interested in talking about an entry-level shoe brand , quite essential it must be said!

And again, by entry level, let's be fair: these are not "first price" shoes , far from it. Let’s just say it’s the cheapest brand we have to test here :)

However, it is not so easy to give your opinion on this type of product. When we test a brand, we usually compare it to others of the same price. But for now, Bexley is the only big brand in the race.

Indeed, the best-known competing brand is Loding but at 180 euros per pair, the difference of 60 euros is enormous when we are talking about entry/mid-range shoes . Comparing Bexley to this type of brand would therefore not be very relevant.

In addition, the gap between the two brands tends to widen since Loding went from €160 to €180 to slowly approach 200, while Bexley has increased its prices only once in 9 years.

There are Meermin and Velasca in this price range, but they are only distributed online, with no physical points of sale.

So I'm going to try to answer this simple question: at Bexley, what do we find at this price, objectively?

HISTORY OF THE BEXLEY SHOE BRAND

Bexley is a French brand like many brands with English names - Wicket, Howard's , Hartford - inspired by English elegance.

Eric Botton, its founder, was not at all destined for the world of shoes when he bought a building in Lyon, where there were three stores at the time.

Not knowing the sector, Eric wonders how to offer shoes at the best possible quality/price ratio .

He then tried a somewhat crazy bet: vertical integration.

Bexley will reduce intermediaries as much as possible in order to lower costs without compromising on the quality of the finished product.

The first store opened in 1990, the second in 1995 and the e-shop appeared in... 1996 (perhaps the only shoe e-shop at the time).

The Bexley offer is quite special since it consists of offering the first pair at €139 then the second at €99. We therefore have a pair of shoes costing €119 .

Let's see what it looks like in practice!

THE CONSTRUCTION OF BEXLEY SHOES: A CHEAPER BLAKE

All Bexley shoes are Blake stitched to refine the line. It differs from Goodyear welted in that it has only one seam connecting the upper, prohibiting any resoling . But it has the advantage of being less expensive .

But between you and me, I haven't yet had to resole a pair of shoes, an operation that is rarely done on entry-level shoes. Installing skates and irons is more than enough.

CORRECT LEATHER BUT NOTHING MORE

The leather of Bexley shoes is French aniline calfskin. It is a more natural design than the usual chrome tanning since it retains its original grain - the grain is the part where the animal's hair is anchored -, thus giving a more natural appearance to the leather.

Please note, this has nothing to do with vegetable tanning, which is not really used for shoe leather, even among the most luxurious brands (vegetable tanned leathers patina too quickly for shoes). ).

As a result, the leather has quite a few defects and creases a lot.

The lining is cowhide leather. We are therefore using 100% leather shoes.

BEXLEY MEN'S SHOES TEST

In order to have an overview that would best encompass the Bexley offer, I chose three very different models:

• A pair of classic Oxfords,
• Bi-material boots in waxed cotton, more original,
• Mid-cut jodhpurs in oiled leather.

THE “DURHAM” RICHELIEU MODEL

To start, I wanted to test a pair of brown Oxfords . It is the most classic and formal model, to be worn only with a suit - unlike the more versatile derbies.

From the outset, the leather has a wrinkled appearance.

We can guess that it doesn't come from the best tanneries , but I notice that the folds no longer move much over time.

It wrinkled at first, but very quickly stabilized (this is a recurring problem with my friends who wear Bexley).

It's already that.

We notice that the foot is very slim, which can be a problem with suit pants with a medium leg opening. Indeed, there is a difference in volume between a wide leg and thin feet, which unbalances the silhouette a little, but nothing serious.

We simply prefer fairly tapered suit pants.

Regarding the shape, this is the model that convinced me the least. I find the rounded shape a little too classic, although they remain completely wearable. It's really a question of taste.

THE “KENT” BI-MATERIAL ANKLE BOOTS

I then wanted to try more casual shoes.

This is a pair of half-cut ankle boots , that is to say with the seam at the end of the shoe (it was Weston who popularized the half-cut, with a derby model that is now famous) .

This is another rather atypical style. The shoe is topped with a waterproof waxed cotton part lined in cowhide leather, with brass eyelets.

Here too, the leather creased quickly at first , but then completely stabilized.

Maxime, from our team, has a very similar pair and reports that they didn't move much after the initial wrinkles, even after a mountain hike (true, not to be done at home).

The appearance can destabilize many people, I was quite skeptical at first but, ultimately, the upper part is barely visible. Unless you're wearing shorts, and in that case...

Contrary to appearances, the shoe is very light to wear.

It is an English-inspired shoe , it is undoubtedly perfect for a duck hunting trip in a marshy area. But since we are not operating in the English moors, I wanted to see if it managed to fit into a more urban outfit.

There too, the leather was already wrinkled. In this case, the only thing to do is to wax them regularly and moisturize them well in the folds.

At this price, we are already happy to have leather and a fully sewn sole.

JODHPUR ANKLE BOOTS IN OILY LEATHER

Finally, I tested a pair of strapped ankle boots called "Jodhpur", this model is shorter than usual.

Its particularity is to be made from oiled leather, a special treatment that makes the skin much more prone to marks than smooth leather, giving it a raw and natural texture.

Of the three pairs tested, this is the one I prefer because the oily leather adds a little texture and roughness to the outfit. I like the idea that they keep traces of our wanderings.

On the other hand, if you are used to Chelsea boots (with elastic) or ankle boots with zips, you will find them a little difficult to put on, especially when the leather is still stiff at first. There's a little help to be had!

As for maintenance, you can waterproof them with seal grease, but you then lose the main characteristic of leather: its ability to mark. Ultimately, it is a very reasonable model in terms of price.

MY OPINION ON BEXLEY MEN’S SHOES

The big question comes back, what do we get for an average price of €119?

It is certainly not with a pair of Bexleys that you will have THE incredible twist that will set you apart from the crowd, nor the exceptional wrinkle-free leather that will last you a lifetime, but let's not forget that we are on entry level.

However, are these bad shoes? No.

The design is classic but it is not vulgar or cheap. The tailoring is not particularly dazzling, but it holds up.

Having asked those who have had Bexley shoes for several years, they all assure me that they hold up, year after year . The negative point lies in leathers which mark a lot.

In this price range, I think it's already very good. It is to the credit of the brand that it has chosen vertical integration to offer this quality at this price.

So, if you want to try new types of models without breaking the bank, your tastes are not yet very established, or you just want a pair that will last with occasional wear (a few times a month)... Don't hesitate !

That being said, if you view a pair of shoes as an art object in itself, I doubt Bexleys will catch your eye.

I would recommend the casual models more. The oily leather, which I didn't know about, is a nice surprise at the moment. We can do tests, experiments.

However, over time, taste asserts itself and you will surely have more budget to put into a pair of shoes. There are many brands that will take over. But for a first step (if I dare say) into classic, low-cost shoes, Bexley is a completely acceptable option!