Contrary to what one might think, Hartford is not an English or American brand, but indeed French! Its history dates back to the early 1980s.
In France, if the brand is not yet recognized at its true value, it is because it has long cultivated its discretion, especially present on the American market.
This is why we invite you to discover Hartford, a French brand which draws its inspiration from American style, while ensuring meticulous work in the development of its well-stocked casual wardrobe.
Note from Benoît: their locker room is really well stocked, the showroom is huge. Tell yourself that if you are looking for a type of casual clothing, Hartford necessarily offers it in its collection.
The article will also present a complete outfit including a safari jacket, chinos and three shirts from the latest collection.
The History of Hartford: from second-hand clothes to the American dream
It all began in 1979, in New York City. Yves Chareton has just finished his business studies, and he decides to live his American dream by working in a bank. Sometimes, just one thing is enough to disrupt the course of a life, and it can happen at any time. For Yves, it happened one evening in a nightclub where he met an old friend.
After a few drinks exchanged, the two friends said to each other that it would be good to find some real vintage American-style shirts from the 50s.
Oxford or madras shirts with the famous “button-down” collars, as it was possible to find at the Clignancourt flea market in Paris in the 1960s.
Finding this heritage was all the more complicated when we know that the fashion for shirts, in the 70s, consisted of introducing pie collars and fitted cuts...
Note from Benoît: it is important to understand that at that time, the men's ready-to-wear offering was not as developed as it is today, and that it was simply impossible to buy clothes at the other side of the planet without going through French boutiques.
This is a typical shirt from the 70s. Even the Bee Gees didn't dare to wear it.
In search of 50s shirts
Yves therefore sets out in search of his old shirts , and after some research, he miraculously comes across a factory which had an old, forgotten stock of fabrics. Amazing !
The American manufacturer, owner of the premises, was seduced by the idea of reproducing the shirts of the period. Manufacturing is back in action, production is about to be launched: everything seems ready!
Well almost, since you then have to choose a name; it will be Hartford, like the birthplace of Yves' girlfriend.
Hartford is halfway between New York and Boston. Incidentally, this city is recognized as the insurance capital of the world (this is not a joke).
A success also linked to great musicians
In its beginnings, Hartford began by launching a small collection of casual shirts with vintage inspirations. It was a success until a certain Bruce Springsteen ordered a dozen shirts! "The Boss" will wear them regularly on his tours, which will only increase Hartford's visibility.
But the brand's greatest pride is having learned that Eric Clapton, another big name in music, is the brand's biggest customer ! Yves, a guitarist since the age of 14, can't help but shed a tear when he hears this news.
Eric Clapton: "Your shirts inspired 'Layla' !" ...Bruce Springsteen: "I love what you do! Whenever you want for the cover of ' Born in the USA' !" ... Yves Chareton: "It doesn't seem like it, but I cried before posing."
The rise of Hartford
Gradually, the brand developed, and built a reputation for quality justified in its quest for authenticity of shirts. Hartford DNA? The reappropriation of American vintage codes, the taste for prints, the unusual mix of materials and colors, nothing more and nothing less.
Especially since the brand uses fabrics from Houses that you know a little about (Albini, Maruwa, etc.) and all the prints are original creations. Do you want an example ? Alright !
Here is the “Pal” oxford shirt with vahiné embroidery. There are more than 6 different embroideries! This kind of detail can only be seen in a high-end shirt.
Note from Benoît: the little blue oxford shirt has fun but discreet little embroideries. It's a great way to add a fun and unexpected touch to a casual outfit.
After shirts, the brand's second growth spurt arrived in 1996, with the introduction of swimsuits which were all the rage on the Mediterranean coasts. The surfing inspiration of the 60s, the original fabrics, the multiple colors, the faded washing technique, the elastic waistband, without forgetting the essential cotton briefs (anti-irritation please!): all these products please quickly and the customer base is growing.
Note from Benoît: here too, we must understand that at that time, surfers' long swim shorts (board shorts) reigned supreme on the summer beaches. Hartford knew how to offer something strong and different, which explains the success of this piece; more than ten years before other brands positioned themselves in the high-end swimsuit niche (Seagale, Robinsons les Bains, Cuisse de Grenouille).
In this way, the Hartford swimsuit has become an iconic piece of the brand . It even seems that a certain well-known brand of mineral water, which is very fond of babies and young people, has decided to use Hartford jerseys for its latest advertising campaign...
An example of an illustration with a small selection of Hartford swimsuits: 1. Long Beach Pochette ... 2. Swim, celadon green swimsuit with prints 3. Swim, orange hibiscus flower swimsuit .... 4. Swim, pineapple swimsuit
The collection is expanding to touch on the classic American wardrobe (trousers, chinos, chambray shirt, parka) which is reworked with a modern tone, without neglecting tradition. This desire to redefine a style, while instilling a certain modernity, constitutes Hartford's very slogan: “Alternative Classics”.
2000s and arrival of the women's collection
At the beginning of the 2000s, Hartford wanted to introduce new elements with innovative lines. Thus, in 2001, a first collection for Women was created. Six years later, in 2007, children can go tobogganing dressed as Hartford.
Yes, the kids were obviously thrilled to have a collection of Hartford clothing just for them.
Hartford's clientele is mainly American (1st market), Italian and French (tied 2nd).
It is largely made up of liberal professions (architects, doctors, lawyers, etc.), aged 35-50, who appreciate the quality of sober pieces (no logo, casual style at work) and the slight relaxation that it goes with any outfit (no very fitted cut). Some pieces can also have a little French preppy side. In this approach, we approach brands like J. Crew and Gant Rugger .
Today, the company's capital belongs entirely to the family. Yann Chareton, the son, is in charge of development and takes care of e-commerce. Marina, the daughter, coordinates the Women's collection. Yves works on managing the image of his brand, and he remains rather discreet. He likes to be in his style office to continue to develop the world of Hartford.
Hartford Brand Test
For this test, five pieces were chosen: a chino, a safari jacket and three shirts. The idea was to present a complete locker room, while showing Hartford's diversity and expertise. Because if the brand started by offering vintage shirts and swimsuits, it has been able to extend its collections to rework an entire set of the American wardrobe.
The Jonas safari jacket (khaki, 190 euros)
With the sun coming back, we had to talk about a safari jacket. It's a mid-season military jacket, completely revisited by Hartford, with a vintage look with its khaki color and casual cut which makes it a little more urban. Its canvas is 100% washed cotton.
The safari jacket has 4 patch pockets with bellows and flaps: two at chest level and two at hip level. A small interior pocket is available. Unsurprisingly, it is very functional, like all military pieces.
If you can read the care instructions, I have good news for you: you see very well.
No zip to close the jacket, but a central buttonhole. There are stopping points at each buttonhole, which reinforces the hold of the safari jacket once buttoned.
The sleeves are adjustable at the wrists.
There are also two button tabs available at the back of the jacket, to tailor it a little according to your figure.
A nice little detail: a pen pocket is available on the left chest pocket.
In a vintage desire, Hartford wanted to look for a fabric from the period. This would explain why the weaving of the safari jacket comes from a Ripstop technique.
In other words, it is a specific weaving method which gives the fabric this finely squared appearance, with the threads which have been firmly interspersed. In this way, the garment resists tears better, while remaining light.
On the other hand, there won't be enough room to play Tic-Tac-Toe.
Once worn, the jacket is very light and retains a certain freshness. Ventilation eyelets are present under the armpits , for use in mid-season or during summer evenings.
Considering the straight cut, you will have enough to wear a cardigan or sweatshirt underneath if the temperatures get colder. No, I didn't try to pose for a coin.
The safari jacket is available here .
Note from Benoît: it's a very nice piece, at a very reasonable price and quite a few look possibilities. It has the advantage of having a fairly timeless design. Be careful though, we are not on a fitted cut like our safari jacket with the Aigle brand , the approach is not quite the same (no MTD membrane or things like that). But I'm thinking of getting one for the summer.
Tucson chino pants (light gray, 125 euros)
I chose 100% cotton chino pants which have several features. The first is the fact that it has undergone a double wash . In other words, any trace of residual chemical substance, linked to the industrial production of the clothes, has disappeared and it will not move when washed.
The peach skin cotton is very light, just like the piece.
All the lightness of this outfit rests on the chinos and the flared Italian collar.
The chinos have a slightly semi-slim cut, snug through the thighs, with a small opening at the bottom (I wear a size 30 and the opening is 18cm).
All in a faded cotton twill weave with a “Mastic” color. It is a light gray color which gives it a little old and precious side at the same time. A kind of clay dried under the Portuguese sun. It is also in this country that it was made.
Like many pants, the length of the chino needs to be adjusted depending on your size, but rolling the bottom two or three times does not take away any of its charm.
Our Alexandre would tell you that he appreciates the visual effect produced by the effect of excess material. But like tastes and colors, it is to be defined according to your affinities.
A chino with a small hem at the ankles adds a summer touch.
The side pockets are deep enough to accommodate your smartphone and the back pockets are almost as deep!
The pocket bags are well finished and deep, which will prevent the pocket from being pulled out once the hand is removed. This is a nice detail to note!
There is a vest coin pocket on the right hip, a great classic.
In terms of finishes, the belt is buttoned: an exterior button and an interior tab.
Unsurprisingly, there is a YKK fly. A sign of quality in every detail.
There are bar tacks at the ends of the side pockets.
The construction is clean, the interior seams of the top are bound, the crotch has no defects, all this constitutes a well-made chino.
A nice little stylistic detail with the navy blue chain stitch edging.
The pants are of very good quality for a reasonable price. This is a piece that will be perfect for spring and summer!
The chinos are available here .
Hartford Shirt Test
For the shirts, I chose three to show you a good part of Hartford's know-how, particularly in their patterns and prints which are original creations.
All their shirts were made in Morocco with whom Hartford works, particularly with their historic manufacturer, for over 30 years! Each shirt has names (PAUL, PADDY, SAMMY, etc.) that correspond to cuts. For example, SAMMY and SIDE start with the letter "S" like slim-fit . These code names historically come from the production which holds an important place at Hartford.
The first will serve as a general test and the other two shirts will highlight the rendering of their patterns on an outfit.
The PAUL shirt with diamond micro-prints (141 euros)
I chose this shirt because it immediately intrigued me. Its depth and clarity, carried by a clever play of colors: blue and white , is of the most beautiful effect.
Yes, I'm the same height as Bruce Springsteen and Eric Clapton, But that's not the point . (Chino "Le Pants" - BonneGueule x Buttero sneakers).
It suits me very well, but there is a small problem to note. The cut of the shirt is a slim-fit in size S. Knowing that I measure 1m77 and weigh 66 kg, I therefore have a rather slender physique, and that means that this shirt may not be the right size for those who are less than 1m75 tall.
Especially since the brand does not offer size XS individually, unless you are a wholesaler... All this can be explained due to American sizing , which is understandable given the history of the brand, but this risks penalizing a younger (or thinner) audience who would be tempted by the world of Hartford.
Note from Benoît: this is one of Hartford's weaknesses, the cuts are not very suitable for small body types. The sizing of their size S could be an M with other brands!
This shirt is made from 100% French linen (another sign of quality). Its collar is Italian and its patterns are navy blue printed diamonds.
The Italian collar is very flared and has a beautiful rounded shape. It balances long faces and necks well.
The shirt has a chest pocket, which reinforces its very American side. The seams are discreet and blend wonderfully into the patterns.
The buttons are mother-of-pearl. To check it, nothing could be simpler, you take the button and touch it with your lips. If it's cold, it's real. Don't have fun doing this in the store!
We have a little reinforcement swallow, very discreet so as not to disrupt the beautiful alchemy of the shirt.
Also note, a very nice detail that will delight purists (as Alex would say): a selvedge border below the capuchin tab.
In another life, I always wanted to be Spiderman.
All these little traditional finishes are pleasant to notice. But what's really good about this shirt is its comfort and lightness . Once put on, I didn't feel like I was wearing a shirt due to its lightness. The 100% linen and these sober and fun patterns are perfect for summer.
The shirt is available here .
Note from Benoît: very nice linen shirt from Hartford, no complaints on that point.
The PAL-8 shirt, indigo with micro-dots (136 euros)
For this second shirt, the choice was made because its indigo blue color quickly captured my attention with its printed micro-dots.
Sun + slight breeze = Lightness
Note from Benoit: the fabric is really great! Too bad the sizing is a little loose.
The shirt is made of linen (55%) and cotton (45%). Its fabric is Italian and the indigo linen has been washed to produce a vintage look. The cut of the shirt is straight, but a little too much. It fits large, the sleeves are a little too long, and the length of the shirt too, and yet, I took the smallest size available (size S).
This is why, just once, I asked Jérémy (1m85 and 76kg) to wear the shirt so that you could get a good look at the piece. Usually he wears M/L.
The shirt is true to size and the length is good. However, when he raises his arms, we realize that the cut of the shirt is still a little too tight.
At the armhole level, that's not it. The cut is way too wide for a size S.
The collar is button-down, typically American. This type of collar is flexible and does not contain any space to accommodate collar stays; this is what makes the shirt suitable for wearing without a tie in a casual setting or for weekend outings.
The fineness of the fabric is perceptible to the eye. The sublime indigo blue and the micro-patterns with white dots bring a certain depth to this shirt.
Like the first shirt, it has the same traditional finishes: mother-of-pearl buttons, selvedge edging, reinforcement swallow, clean seams.
The shirt is available here .
The PADDY shirt with floral micro-prints (127 euros)
This third shirt has the same finishes as the first. It is made of 71% cotton and 29% linen and has floral micro-prints. It comes in a slim-fit cut, so I can show it to you.
A good reminder of color between the Hartford Shirt and the BG x Buttero Sneakers. The orange chinos (The Pants) are totally in keeping with the blue.
From a distance, the shirt offers a beautiful little illusion of a mottled, grained blue which is the most beautiful effect. Up close, the rendering of the prints is very precise. There is even a little psychedelic effect that can be felt when you see this shirt. And this demonstrates a certain finesse in the piece.
If you can see the pocket, I have more good news for you: you are not color blind.
Like the other shirts, it has the same traditional finishes and the fabric is very light. Nothing to say, it is of good quality!
The shirt is available here .
Conclusion of the Hartford test
The prices are reasonable and the products are well made. The quality of the shirts and pants is good, the rest of the pieces are in the interesting mid-range.
By reworking vintage American heritage to adapt it to a contemporary tone, Hartford is undoubtedly a casual brand.
The choice of their own fabrics, their original creations (prints), the diversity of the pieces in both style and color is a rare fact to highlight.
On the other hand, it is obvious that the brand must make an effort in its sizing and cuts, such as offering a size XS, to be able to reach a younger and/or thinner audience who would be interested in the world of Hartford. But if you're a little strong, you've just found the brand you need!
All the pieces that I presented to you can be found on the Hartford site.
Lionel (former intern with us) couldn't resist wearing the safari jacket, and saying hello, with his beachwear look which is totally consistent with the spirit of Hartford.
