Whether it's for a wedding, a job interview or any other occasion, the suit is one of the clothes we take the most care of. Often protected in its cover, it benefits from a very special treatment compared to the other pieces in our wardrobe.
That said, after good and loyal service, your suit needs a good refresh. It is then time to think about its maintenance and cleaning.
In this article, we give you the keys to getting through this milestone without a hitch and thus guaranteeing its longevity.
Disclaimer: SoyezBCBG is a start-up specializing in home dry cleaning in Paris. They offered to answer a question that we have all asked ourselves: what actually happens to our suit once it is dropped off at the dry cleaners? To do this, they opened the doors of one of their dry cleaners to us. The floor is theirs!
Clothing care, from ancient times to today
A gradual loss of hygiene
Washing clothes has evolved a lot over the centuries. Remains found by some archaeologists testify to the importance and care that the Romans gave to their textiles from the 6th century.
The linen brought to the "fulling workshops", automatic laundries of the time, was then washed and trampled by fullers. .
Linen was cleaned with "detergents" such as "fuller's earth" or Sommières earth. Thanks to it, the colours regained their brilliance and the grease disappeared. Human urine, straight from public toilets, was used for its whitening power. The clothes were then purified using sulphur fumes.
The fulling vat of the "Fullonica of Stephanus" in Pompeii.
In the Middle Ages, epidemics (such as the plague and syphilis) were rampant and the fear of water was fueled by superstitions. The doctors of the time, powerless, suggested that water could facilitate the access of diseases through the pores of the skin. European populations were less concerned about hygiene at the time.
Only after being worn for several months - at least three - were the clothes washed. Believing that bad smells also brought diseases, the use of perfume was then recommended.
The Renaissance and its return to cleanliness
With the Renaissance, the importance given to personal hygiene increased. Changes in outfits and the wearing of "fashionable" clothing symbolized belonging to the wealthy classes. Gradually, water was reintroduced into the hygiene ritual.
With the progress of science, research and medicine, we are gradually becoming aware that the lack of hygiene contributes to the proliferation of contagious diseases. The use of soap is becoming more diligent but the ritual of washing clothes remains a long and restrictive process.
During the 18th century, personal cleanliness remained an important social marker.
For a long time, washing was done on river banks, on a sloping stone or a simple board. At the end of the 18th century, in reaction to industrial pollution and epidemics, populations felt a deep need for hygiene: this greatly encouraged the construction of wash houses.
Their use continued until the 20th century.
In the middle of the 19th century, the first mechanical washing machines appeared. A closed tub equipped with wooden paddles (agitators), later metal, allowed washerwomen to work standing up and have their hands in the water less often.
However, before washing machines became commonplace, large cities had public laundromats.
What is dry cleaning?
In 1855, Jean-Baptiste Jolly accidentally spilled a mixture of turpentine and alcohol from his oil lamp on a dress. He noticed that the mixture cleaned instead of staining. Unwittingly, he had just invented dry cleaning!
Following this discovery, Jean-Baptiste Jolly opened his first dry cleaning establishment in Paris.
Somewhat counterintuitively, dry cleaning is dry in name only. In modern dry cleaners, clothes and textiles are soaked in baths of solvents other than water . They are then wrung out and dried, which causes the solvent to evaporate. Most of the time, dry cleaning is done with chlorinated hydrocarbons, the best known of which is perchloroethylene.
Now that we know the difference between launderette (washing with water and detergent) and dry cleaning (cleaning in a bath of chemical solvents), let's take a closer look at the dry cleaning part because I remind you that our suit should never, ever be put in a traditional washing machine!
Even if the label indicates otherwise (especially for slightly sporty suits), this would be a fatal error and your suit would be good for the trash!
So let's repeat it: machine cleaning is prohibited!
The different technologies used by traditional dry cleaners
Dry cleaning with perchloroethylene
Perchloroethylene is the most commonly used solvent for dry cleaning. Although effective, particularly on greasy stains, it is classified as a "probable carcinogen" by the International Agency for Research on Cancer and a "possible carcinogen" by the EU.
Tetrachloroethylene, another name for perchlo. The pictograms speak for themselves...
France has therefore strengthened its regulations by imposing the gradual replacement of "perchlo" with solvents that are not dangerous for humans or the environment by 2020. France is a pioneer in this area: only a handful of countries are following suit.
However, the CFET website (professional textile care organisation in the Ile-de-France region) reminds us that " Perchlo used under good conditions is no more dangerous than other volatile organic compounds such as varnish, paint, fuel, etc. "
Today, perchlo is still used by about 90% of dry cleaners because it is the most effective solvent on the market.
Dry cleaning at KWL
Also derived from hydrocarbons, it is a less dangerous alternative to perchlo. It offers high cleaning and stain removal quality, which is however inferior to that of perchlo.
On the other hand, it is an eco-responsible solvent with a much less significant impact on the planet .
Note from Rafik: all of SoyezBCBG’s partner artisans use these very solvents.
Towards new cleaning technologies
In recent years, we have seen the development in France of new dry cleaning brands (ecological, innovative, etc.), using different processes for cleaning clothes.
Aquacleaning
Also called "Aquacleaning" or "Wet cleaning", this water cleaning method offers the possibility of maintaining delicate textiles differently. Its principle is simple: it consists of using water as a solvent, mixed with biodegradable detergents and softeners .
The process is more energy efficient and uses fewer environmentally harmful products, although it does release some of them. Unfortunately, it is less effective for grease/oil/wax stains... In addition, there is a significant risk of shrinkage due to water.
Liquid silicone cleaning
Developed about twenty years ago in the United States by GreenEarth, silicone cleaning is a so-called clean technique (in the same way as KWL). It requires the use of a mild silicone solvent D5 and biodegradable detergents.
Solvents allow the effective treatment of items that cannot be treated with Aquacleaning and ensure good results. However, some grease/oil/wax stains are also difficult to remove with this process.
Understanding dry cleaning prices
Dry cleaner prices in big cities can vary from one to two times the price. So how do you explain that one dry cleaner offers to clean your suit for 25 euros, while another offers the same service for 10 euros?
The difference is justified not only by the cost of the land rents of each dry cleaner (a dry cleaner located in the heart of Paris will be strangely more expensive than an establishment on the outskirts), but also by the quality of the products and techniques used for the care of the clothes. .
As you will see, human intervention is very important in dry cleaners (numerous checks and manual work). A traditional craftsman will therefore not have the same price as an economical and/or industrial dry cleaner.
Traditional dry cleaning: economical service vs. “high quality” service
One of our craftsmen, a traditional dry cleaner, showed us behind the scenes in order to better understand the profession and explain the differences in service. Here, we will focus on the economic service and the service labeled "high quality" by the CFET .
What is meant by "economic service"?
The economical service remains cleaning with the most basic finish. Ideal for a garment that is not stained and only requires light maintenance .
Here, there is no control carried out by the workshop, so no local stain removal before cleaning the garment. It will be put as is in the machine, soaked in solvents then wrung out and evaporated. Most of the garments will be ironed mechanically (press or mannequin).
The solvents used in economical cleaning are capable of dissolving and removing several greasy stains (butter, oil, etc.) but in the absence of local stain removal, a large number of so-called "lean" stains cannot be removed using this service.
Indeed, most tasks require special attention and a high level of professional expertise.
What to expect from the “high quality” labeled service?
Behind the "high quality" label, what care is given to the clothes? Let's follow our craftsman!
- 1st phase: upstream quality control
Once your costume has been dropped off, the craftsman will inspect it carefully for the first time, identify any stains and protect any non-removable trimmings/accessories.
We first start by observing the room, an essential step for high-quality service.
- 2nd phase: local stain removal
Before cleaning the garment, the craftsman takes it to a stain removal booth. Here, he studies the composition of the costume and uses the appropriate products and techniques to remove stains locally (under the armpits, at the collar, on specific stains, at the folds of the knees, etc.).
Here, the stains are treated one by one according to their typology.
For every stain, its cleaner!
- 3rd phase: cleaning
Once detached, the garment will be dry cleaned in a specialized machine. According to professionals in the sector, Italian machines are the most efficient.
- 4th phase: exit control
After a cleaning cycle that can last between 45 and 80 minutes depending on the machine, the suit will be inspected to ensure there are no unpleasant surprises (unstitched button, stubborn stain). Following this inspection, the craftsman will decide whether it is necessary to carry out a second stain removal and cleaning in order to obtain the most perfect result possible.
- 5th phase: ironing by hand
In some dry cleaners, ironing is done at very high temperatures regardless of the garment and using machines (mechanical ironing such as a press), in order to speed up the pace. However, these machines are normally dedicated to flat linens such as napkins, tablecloths and tea towels.
No machine for the "high quality" label, the clothes are ironed entirely by hand. Each fabric has its own temperature and type of ironing in order to preserve the fibers of the costume.
The irons are also protected by pads to prevent any shine on the garment (highlighting linked to the very regular wearing of a suit but also to ironing at too high a temperature).
Ironed by hand, or nothing!
To summarize:
- Economical service : professional cleaning and mechanical ironing.
- "High quality" service : upstream control; specialized stain removal; professional cleaning (double cleaning if necessary); exit control; hand ironing. The additional operations required (leveling, special finishing) allow the item to be finished as perfectly as possible.
How often should you clean your suit?
Having your suit professionally cleaned comes at a cost , but it remains the best solution for its maintenance.
How often you clean your suit will depend on how often you wear it.
For occasional use, we recommend dry cleaning once or twice a year . If you wear it several times a week, you will need to go once every two months, except in the case of a stain or persistent odor, for example.
The final word: tips and tricks for maintaining your suit at home
Before thinking about dry cleaning, we very often forget that there are a good number of little tips for properly maintaining your suit and thus increasing its lifespan, especially if you have invested in a quality piece.
Maybe you have the habit of folding your suits or stacking them on a hanger to save space? Well, it's time to change that bad habit! Your suit should be hung properly, preferably on a wide, wooden hanger. Why? Because the wide hanger is better suited to the weight of the jacket and will allow it to keep its original shape. In addition, wood absorbs moisture.
For example, Valmour offers a "Hanger project" range with solid birch wood hangers, strong and light, which preserve the shape and material of your suits.
You love your suit and we understand, but that's not a good enough reason to wear it all the time! The ideal is to alternate.
Your suit is made of natural fibers that need dry spaces and especially air to evacuate heat and odors. You should therefore avoid keeping it under its plastic protection when it comes back from the dry cleaners and let it breathe in a ventilated place after each use.
Brushing is recommended after each use of your costume: use a brush with soft natural bristles and brush in the direction of the fiber to remove hair, fur and possibly dust it. Your costume will thank you!
In the case of pilling, gently use a razor for this purpose.
Some craftsmen even rely on pumice stone to combat pilling. To be reserved for the most experienced!
