BonneGueule line: the return of the improved softshell

A little less than a year ago, we released our softshell.

It's a piece that was very close to my heart: for the first time, I completely designed a piece of clothing from the BonneGueule line.

I wanted it to be as complete as possible, trying to think about all aspects of product development.

So obviously, I'm proud of all the collections we've released and, with Alexandre, we always want to surpass ourselves. In fact, I told myself that we could do even better and go further in product innovation ...

How ? By developing a piece that we had never done before, with an X factor or X factor in English. What the French mysteriously call "a je ne sais quoi" or even "the big cherry on the cake ", if you prefer.

You gave this softshell a superb welcome, it quickly found itself sold out! Many of you have also given us very relevant feedback to improve it further, particularly from our biker friends.

So, we decided to reissue it. A second version, revised and corrected, even better than the first.

An update of the V2 softshell

Here are the new features:

• the hood is deeper and is now equipped with a tightening system,

• the collar has better hold,

• the chest pockets now have hidden snap buttons,

• the end of the sleeves can be tightened with one hand via a strap with Velcro,

• the softshell is a little longer,

• the lining is made of mesh to increase breathability and that of the sleeves is made of viscose to make it easier to "slip" when you put it on.

We will see all these points in detail!

The starting point: how to manage temperature variations?

Mid-season complications

As is often the case, everything starts from my own needs. In this case, in this period called "mid-season", dressing is always complicated .

Have I already told you that I often go back to Tours on weekends? Okay, now it's done.

Often, it's nice in the afternoon and I go out to the banks of the Loire, without the slightest idea of ​​when I will return. . And this is where the problem arises:

• If I leave with just a sweatshirt, I will be cold in the evening , especially if I walk home. And if it rains, there's nothing left to do...

• If I go with a piece that's a bit too thick, I'm too hot all afternoon and have to wait for the weather to cool down to finally be comfortable.

I remember very clearly thinking this to myself around 2 a.m., when I was walking across the Wilson Bridge to go home. The weather was very good during the day but as soon as night fell, the temperatures dropped below 14°C.

It is this large thermal amplitude which is complicated to manage. We also find it in the city with public transport, for example.

A reflection that matures...

In my head, my first requirements for this piece took shape:

• We needed something that could be worn at 12-15°C, as well as at 20°C…

• …whether it rains or shines,

• can be carried other than on the arm, to be comfortable all afternoon if it is hot.

In short, a piece capable of handling pronounced mid-season temperature swings , rain and wind, all with style and functionality .

Basically, I was looking for the five-legged sheep... At the time, I even said to myself "Benoît, you're going a little far this time" .

So it's true, there is urban techwear, but Acronym and Arc'téryx Veilance may well be very pretty brands, at €1,228 and €900 per jacket respectively, it's... "a little" expensive .

So, I went to see Alex to talk to him about my feelings. Here is a faithful summary of what we said:

- I answered him with determination.

Some brainstorming sessions later, the idea of ​​the softshell came to us. 

Why a softshell?

It is a very common product among hikers.

As a result, they are quite wide, with zips and inserts everywhere, in very sporty colors and textures. And I don't want to look like a hiker when I sit on the terrace .

I wanted a cool softshell that you would want to wear every day. So I took out my best pencils and started drawing a prototype, like Alfred in Batman:

I saw the design more clearly, a practical softshell but with an urban look. However, the main thing was elsewhere: we had to find THE material.

Indeed, finding a technical and waterproof material is rather simple, but finding one that doesn't have a "hiking aspect", believe me, it's a different story (and the prices are skyrocketing).

So with Alexandre, we did several Première Vision shows. After searching, we ended up finding a partner capable of providing us with this X Fabric : Sympatex .

Sympatex is a company that we have been following for a long time. It specializes in the production of exceptional techwear , particularly for people who want to climb Everest... but not only that!

I was very reassured to see that they had already worked with Acronym, Nobis or Maharishi , the proof in pictures:

Finally, after several months of development with Sympatex and around ten production round trips, we got there. As we will see, it was not an easy adventure!

A pretty material above all

As I mentioned, finding a good technical subject:

• which is neither black, nor blue, nor in bright colors,

• with a minimal urban appearance,

It’s the cross and the banner!

Imagine my joy at Sympatex when I came across:

• a mottled khaki material,

• which looks like gabardine ,

• waterproof AND breathable !

If you look at the material closely, you will see all its subtlety. That's exactly what I wanted.

A high-performance material

It is a so-called “two-layer” fabric (or “ two-layer laminated ”).

• There is an outer layer of polyester, the one that is visible. It is this which gives the visual appearance of the piece and which is water-repellent .

• Below, there is the famous Sympatex membrane, breathable and waterproof .

In terms of waterproofing, the material resists a pressure of a water column of 45,000 mm , while most waterproofing tests stop at 20,000 mm. ! Basically, this means that you can fill a 45 meter tube with water, placed on our material, without the water passing through.

The holy grail of breathability

In terms of breathability , it's a little more technical. In fact, we measure the ability of the material to let water vapor pass through, this is the RET index. For this, I refer you to Milone’s definition in his introduction to techwear:

The RET (Evaporative Transfer Resistance) is the index (which has somewhat become the standard) which measures the ability of a fabric to let water vapor generated by the body (perspiration) escape . The lower the index, the more it indicates that the garment is breathable.

• RET less than 6: very breathable,

• RET between 6 and 12: breathable,

• RET between 12 and 20: weakly breathable,

• RET above 20: non-breathable.

Here the RET is 6, which makes it really breathable.

An active hydrophilic/phobic membrane

A somewhat atypical thing is that it is a membrane that does not have pores.

Most membranes assume that a drop of rainwater is much larger than the perspiration that escapes from the body. They are therefore covered with tiny pores allowing only the latter to pass through. Problem: after a while, when there is a lot of sweating, the pores become clogged with water and breathability decreases .

On our Sympatex membrane, it is thanks to a clever combination of hydrophilic components on the inside (which attract water) and hydrophobic on the outside that perspiration is evacuated.

Note that the more the indoor humidity increases, the more quickly the transfer occurs, that is to say, it becomes more and more effective as you sweat.

A material with some technical constraints

A demanding confection

First of all, a beautiful technical material has a price (roughly that of a high-end wool flannel). But thanks to our tight margins, we can offer you this part at a price below what it would cost elsewhere.

And above all, we need workshops specialized in this type of assembly.

For example, it was necessary to put waterproof seams to ensure the watertightness of the part. It is a very technical process, which takes time , and which is therefore doubly expensive. I quickly understood why the smallest piece with waterproof seams directly cost a few hundred euros.

On this subject, let's be very clear: a jacket with a beautiful high-performance material , assembled with waterproof seams, costs at least 400 euros. If it is cheaper, it is because we have made savings either on the material or on the assembly.

An ecological approach

The most surprising point with Sympatex is that they have managed to make high-performance membranes , while making them ecological . Yes, the membrane is 100% recyclable, like a simple plastic bottle. And they are the only ones to do it.

Also important point: the membrane does not contain PFC (=perfluorinated compounds), an endocrine disruptor often present in sports clothing .

Finally, Sympatex works hard to reuse membrane production waste, up to 15%, something rare enough to be reported.

An urban and technical softshell

The hood

This time, we had to find the right size of the collar stand to be able to pass the chin, while giving a little character to the piece.

Thanks to your feedback, we have improved it compared to the previous version. Deeper , it also has a tightening tab at the back. You can adjust it according to the size of your head .

It obviously remains removable : when the weather is nice, perhaps you want a less "sportswear" look, without a hood.

It is therefore held in place by a zip and snap button system which, casually, covers the collar with the seams. And we managed to make everything invisible once the hood was removed: no zips or exposed snaps.

At the same time, we have reinforced the heat-sealing for better hold of the collar .

Functional and discreet pockets

You will see two very refined patch pockets on the chest, which you can now keep securely closed with press studs.

You will also find a small invisible pocket on the heart side, zipped, with a slight offset in the seam which gives an asymmetrical touch that I liked.

As for the two hand pockets , they have some particularities:

• They are zipped, so as not to lose their contents,

• The right pocket contains an internal pocket specifically for your phone , so that it is well maintained during transport and, above all, completely eliminate the risk of falling,

• The left pocket contains a small internal carabiner for your keys . Here too, I have sometimes seen them fall out of my friends' side pockets. Here, no more risks: they are well held and will not come off, even when the pocket is open!

A redesigned central groove

You know me, I love textured fabrics.

It is for this reason that the press studs on the central throat are placed on a large grain which gives all the identity of the piece .

As for the central zip, it is a silver YKK, because it is a zip color that I really like.

A soft lining

Here too, your recommendations came through .

Initially, we opted for a mix of viscose and cotton.

Finally, we swapped it for a mesh lining to increase the breathability of the softshell.

For the inside of the sleeves, we chose viscose. As breathable as cotton , it "glides" for easy putting on.

A special strap

This is certainly the point on which I bothered Alexandre the most. It's a slightly unexpected but terribly practical element, so much so that even Zegna Sport is doing it!

The observation is simple: it is a garment to wear mid-season but, while waiting for the coolness of the evening or if it is really hot in full sun, carrying your jacket by hand becomes painful .

That's when I remembered seeing, in winter, some Montreal women carrying their Canada Goose on their backs in the overheated metro, while it was -15°C outside. . Then I remembered the first Rick Owens collections, which also included carrying straps.

So we needed one on our softshell! These are the kind of details that we are not used to at first and that we ultimately regret not seeing more often! In case of heat, simply take off the jacket and wear it over your shoulder.

This is a detail which, in my eyes, is ultimately not one. We see it far too rarely and I am very happy to offer it to you!

As I was about to choose a simple strap, Alexandre stopped me:

Benoît, we worked a lot on the material and the lining. It would be stupid to choose a strap that you see everywhere, right?

He was right, so we had a little fun with the choice of straps by choosing a heather gray reference from an Italian supplier.

That being said, its installation was complicated because we had to find the right way to stitch the strap into the material and not just into the lining, so that it would be durable. But if you don't want this strap, don't worry! It is completely removable thanks to a Velcro closure.

Thoughtful clamping tabs

On the first version, we opted for a placket with snap buttons.

At the request of our motorcycle readers, we have redesigned the system. It is now supported by velcro, so you can choose a tighter or looser fit depending on your convenience .

Only one hand is enough for this operation!

How to maintain the softshell?

To activate the water repellency of your softshell , iron it on a "flat linen" (with a handkerchief or cloth between the iron and the fabric) for 5 minutes at thermostat 2 - i.e. 150° - when you receive it.

This is a piece that doesn't need to be washed often, unless you've had a huge disaster with it.

Machine washing at 30°C, once a year and with a minimum spin cycle is sufficient. Complete this step by ironing at thermostat 1 (110°) directly on the material and presto, you will reactivate the water repellency.

However, no dry cleaning!

How to wear a softshell?

How to choose your size ?

The sizing is very classic, just take your usual size! I know I say this every time I launch, but it's that simple!

How to get the BonneGueule softshell?

The softshell is now available on our shop and in our stores .