A “catch-all” style with varied origins, streetwear has gone beyond the trend stage to establish itself as a trend in its own right.
From alternative subcultures of the suburbs, to the small ins and outs of fashion, it's a style that seduces as much as it questions. Evolving, it absorbs its environment, making its interpretations almost infinite .
We had already had the opportunity to talk about it in a first article , which mainly focused on the basics of this style. Today, we're going to look at its evolution... and stock up on inspiration!
The little history of streetwear...
Origins inherited from the street
Now adopted by the entire fashion world, streetwear has not always been unanimously accepted. As is often the case, fashion adapts to society and the times in which it evolves. Let's look at how...
A style born in the 80's...
The hip-hop group Public Enemy, representative of the hip-hop style of the 80s and 90s.
Streetwear has its origins in the convergence of several distinct styles . We find reminiscences of the jazz era, references to Californian surfers, skate culture and, above all, that of hip-hop.
Indeed, the 80s were marked by the appearance of this new musical genre, carried by the youth of the ghettos and "suburbs" of New York. This decade saw the flowering of a new genre of boy band, far from the Beatles and their ideal son-in-law style. Among them: Public Enemy , NWA or Run-DMC , who become the standard bearers of an alternative culture.
Photos by fashion photographer Jamel Shabazz, who immortalizes the style of hip-hop groups in New York in the 80s.
In order to assert their identity, they invent a new style of clothing breaking the codes of a still puritanical society, ultimately very preppy. It is also about adapting the clothing to the movement and practice of breakdancing . They adopt wide pants and sportswear outfits, wear sneakers and XXL t-shirts, adorn themselves with caps, flashy jewelry and make wearing sweatshirts and hoodies commonplace.
...Legitimized in the 2000s
Basically, streetwear is a form of expression of rather popular subcultures . If the movement was born in the 80s, it really became institutionalized from the mid-90s. Music plays a capital role: rap and RnB inspire young generations, establishing themselves lastingly in the artistic landscape.
Personalities emerge from disadvantaged minorities, integrating their cultural heritage into their stylistic codes. Having become references beyond the simple musical universe, they contribute to the creation of a model
On the left, a young Snoop Dogg, during the filming of his first music video "Who I am?" in 1993. On the right, Rihanna who appropriates the Gucci style during the Coachella music festival in 2017.
Streetwear and fashion: I love you, me neither
Difficult beginnings
Apart from a few occasional examples, like Marithé + François Girbaud and their baggy, "fashion" has long remained impervious to streetwear...
The time when Lacoste tried to stem an unprecedented phenomenon: the appropriation of its clothes is now long gone.
Members of the hip-hop group Arsenik in Lacoste.
However, for its fall/winter 2018-2019 collection, the models paraded to music from the hip-hop group Wu-Tang Clan , bobs screwed on their heads, dressed in jackets adorned with the crocodile and fleece jogging pants.
How can we explain this turnaround?
Birth of “couture streetwear”
We are seeing the emergence of a new generation of creators, raised in the 80s – with all the references that that implies. Names like Ricardo Tisci (Givenchy), Kim Jones (Louis Vuitton), Virgil Abloh (Off-White), Stéphane Ashpool (Pigalle) or Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga then CLOTHING) thus offer a unique idea of style
Houses are being shaken up, couture flirts with the street.
Presentation of the Pigalle brand, spring/summer 2017-2018.
This approach also responds to a growing need for brands – luxury brands in particular – to appeal to young people who no longer recognize themselves in a wardrobe that is too classic and rarely renews itself. This approach is therefore a new way to court a connected clientele keen on something new.
It is this same strategy that has led major labels to collaborate with influential personalities, who have become references in streetwear. Today, Pharell Williams shows for Chanel, Rihanna has become a Dior muse, Nekfeu signs a collaboration with Agnès B. and the Smith children occupy the front row of Vuitton fashion shows.
From left to right: Jaden Smith at the Louis Vuitton fall/winter 2017-2018 show; Pharell Williams walking for Chanel in 2016.
A frenzied bidding war, in which all these Houses are engaged, offering themselves a facelift in the process. A “cooler” identity, without which they would seem outdated.
Some celebrities, with street DNA, have also launched their own clothing business . For example, we can cite the Yeezy label, launched by Kanye West, Unküt by Booba or, more recently, the Avnier brand created by Orelsan .
Kanye West presenting the collaboration between Adidas and his Yeezy brand.
What about the fashion for collaborations?
In recent years, a new phenomenon has taken over the fashion world: collaborations. The concept is simple: bring together two entities with very distinct identities at first glance, to arouse the interest of broader populations, thanks to limited edition pieces.
Rarity creates desire and brands have understood this well. The buyer is motivated by exclusivity, sometimes transforming into a true collector. This practice is even more common in streetwear, where urban brands team up with luxury labels. The effect is immediate, these limited collections are sold at prohibitive prices. Not to mention the resale prices between individuals!
Supreme x Louis Vuitton.
While some pieces may be worthwhile — from a strictly stylistic point of view , at least — we must keep in mind that marketing often remains the main element of these collabs. Some are quite improbable, like the next IKEA x Off-White .
Streetwear: marker of a generation?
More than any other style, streetwear transcends social classes
It echoes deeper societal changes . To begin with, the world of work has changed: there is less talk of conformity, individuality and the right of everyone to express themselves are increasingly emphasized.
The suit and tie are no longer always required. This norm, associated with the concept of masculine power, is becoming rarer, even in the political sphere.
These changes are reflected in the way men dress. We prioritize comfort and practicality, we assert our references more and we indulge in originality.
How to adopt streetwear style?
It is sometimes difficult to find your way around, as there are so many possibilities with this style. No worries, we give you all our tips to become an “ OG” of streetwear!
The ten commandments of streetwear
- Be careful not to overdo it . If streetwear allows more freedom than other styles – tailoring , to name just one – be sure to maintain a certain consistency.
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Avoid an overflow of creators . This is an objection that we often hear from purists: "fashion designers devalue, distort the original streetwear wardrobe, to disguise people who have no affinity with its history"
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Turn to vintage . For those looking for more authenticity, vintage, found in thrift stores for example, can be a real gold mine. Be careful, “just because it’s vintage doesn’t mean it’s beautiful”
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- Dare to DIY. Initially, streetwear was a “do-it-yourself” style. We recovered, we recycled, we diverted. “Do It Yourself” can be a way to make it your own by giving free rein to your creativity.
- Start with small touches. We start by replacing a pair of derbies with sneakers, we accessorize... Don't swap the suit for a Lacoste outfit, overnight.
The cap is enough to give a more street side to this biker look.
- Adopt beautiful sneakers, the true foundation of streetwear. The plurality of existing brands and models gives you a varied choice. If I advise you to acquire basics (the eternal white sneakers) first, you can then move on to more original pieces.
- Mix styles. Always with the idea of composing a silhouette that remains coherent and aesthetic, do not hesitate to mix street influences with other more classic ones: the jogging /overcoat, mackintosh/hoodie, blazer/sneakers combinations, even if they don't seem not necessarily obvious, work very well.
- Think about layering. Streetwear is a style that is created by feeling, combining pieces of different colors, textures and volumes. Mastering layering in your outfits allows for this special alchemy.
Layering is an interesting solution to add depth to the look.
- Control volumes. Oversized is part of the DNA of streetwear. Far from the extra large t-shirts of hip-hop singers, we now wear oversized coats/jackets, which add thickness to the silhouette. Wide-leg pants are also making a comeback.
- Have some references . You don't have to be a fan of champion Tony Alva, or a fan of Lil Uzi Vert 's songs, to adopt a streetwear style. That said, keep in mind that it is a style full of history and claims that, in a way, we wear at the same time as the clothes associated with it.
Streetwear look ideas
In order to illustrate my point, I decided to pose under the lens of Alex , our community manager
If these are essentially proposals integrating streetwear basics, it is always possible to go further in the stylistic bias.
I would also like to thank the stores and brands that lent me the pieces that I am wearing in the photos: the Center Commercial store, the Beige Habilleur e-shop, the Wrung Division brand, the Marithé François Girbaud brand, the Agnès B brand .
I wear a base made up of typically streetwear pieces: a gray hoodie, bleached jeans which bring a vintage side and a pair of Vans. By adding a straight camel trench coat, you tone the whole thing down, which avoids the impression of being in your Sunday outfit. For a more assertive style, choose woolen mittens, less classic than a pair of leather gloves.
Here, the idea is to recall the proximity between sportswear and streetwear: I am wearing elastane pants similar to jogging pants, white sneakers with Velcro straps and a simple t-shirt. As for accessories, I choose a 24h sports shirt to stay in the same spirit, and a hat which enhances the whole look with a touch of color. We finish with an oversized gray overcoat: it brings texture and a certain “nobility” to the look.
The streetwear influence is less obvious here. I start with a casual base, to which I add a patterned t-shirt and a pair of slightly worn sneakers for nonchalance. Mixed with a suede bomber and raw denim, the contrast offers an interesting result. The accessories finish dressing the silhouette.
I combine big striped pants with an oversized denim jacket, reminiscent of cuts from the 80s. The graphic t-shirt is a streetwear basic — be careful not to overdo it, at the risk of coming across as an eternal teenager. By focusing on simple shades, you will have no trouble taming the patterns !
What's more streetwear than being a skater? Adopt a hoodie (rather original here, with its zip), worn over raw jeans. The very wide lapels bring a casual side to the outfit. The sneakers, although colorful, fit without difficulty. The backwards cap is a little wink, almost cliché... As for whether you should keep the visor at the front or at the back, it's a matter of taste!
For further...
For those who would like to explore this style further, here are other looks to inspire you.
A perfect example of layering, the stacking of a hoodie, a checked shirt and a down jacket in flashy colors highlights the build. The colors respond to each other. We complete with a bleached, whose pale shade soothes the others. The jeans are cut at the bottom of the leg for the "rebellious" side (you can do it yourself on old jeans...). The sneakers pick up the tones of the top of the outfit. All the ingredients are there.
The entire outfit is made up of originally rather dressy pieces, but in an oversized version to accentuate their casualness. It's a good way to play with styles. Add a pair of colorful sneakers to liven up the whole look and add a more street touch.
More daring, you can also rely on a strong piece: the sweatshirt does all the work. This clearly implies taking responsibility for it. Otherwise, why not!
In this look, we find the famous faded jeans cut out at the calf. It is worn with classic sneakers, revealing white socks to clearly mark the sportswear influence. The silhouette is constructed in contrast, with a top made up of casual pieces with a vintage look. The vintage design cap and belt complete the look.
Selection of brands
It is now possible to find typically streetwear pieces in the collections of most brands, whether it is their preferred style or not.
For those looking for specialized labels with a historically street DNA, I have selected a few references for you to turn to.
Designer brands
Bastien Laurent and Laura Do, the two creators of the Avoc brand.
- Pigalle
- Gosha Rubchinskiy
- AVOC
- Like boys
- Martine Rose
Historical brands
Stüssy collection celebrating the brand's 35th anniversary.
- Stussy
- Wrung Division
- Supreme
- Volcom
- BAPE
General brands
Launch of the 2016 collection of the Palace Skateboards brand, London, 2016.
Sneaker brands
Photo from the Adidas catalog model 1971.
The final word...
An emblematic style of subcultures from the 80s to 90s, streetwear has today lost the subversive aspect of its beginnings. Popularized, it has now established itself as a reference in terms of clothing, both in terms of aesthetics and design and in the values it conveys.
As a result of its history, there are a thousand and one ways to approach this style. More than a trend, today it resembles an underlying trend, from which everyone can draw to make it their own.
