A "catch-all" style with varied origins, streetwear has gone beyond the trend stage to establish itself as a movement in its own right.
From the alternative subcultures of the suburbs to the small inner circle of fashion, it is a style that seduces as much as it questions. Evolving, it absorbs its environment, making its interpretations almost infinite .
We already had the opportunity to talk about it in a first article , which focused mainly on the basics of this style. Today, we're going to look at its evolution... and get some inspiration!
The short history of streetwear...
Origins inherited from the street
Now embraced by the entire fashion world, streetwear has not always been unanimous. As is often the case, fashion adapts to society and the times in which it evolves. Let's look at how...
A style born in the 80's...
Hip-hop group Public Enemy, representative of the hip-hop style of the 80s and 90s.
Streetwear has its origins in the convergence of several distinct styles . There are echoes of the jazz era, references to Californian surfers, skate culture and, above all, hip-hop.
Indeed, the 80s were marked by the emergence of this new musical genre, carried by the youth of the ghettos and "suburbs" of New York. This decade saw the blossoming of a new kind of boy-band, far from the Beatles and their ideal son-in-law style. Among them: Public Enemy , NWA or Run-DMC , who became the standard-bearers of an alternative culture.
Photos by fashion photographer Jamel Shabazz, who immortalizes the style of hip-hop groups in New York in the 80s.
In order to assert their identity, they invented a new style of clothing that broke the codes of a society that was still puritanical, ultimately very preppy. It was also about adapting clothing to the movement and practice of breakdancing . They adopted wide pants and sportswear sets, wore sneakers and XXL t-shirts, adorned themselves with caps and flashy jewelry, and made wearing sweatshirts and hoodies commonplace.
...Legitimized in the 2000s
Basically, streetwear is a form of expression of rather popular subcultures . If the movement was born in the 80s, it really became institutionalized from the mid-90s. Music plays a key role: rap and RnB inspire the younger generations, establishing themselves in the artistic landscape for a long time.
Personalities emerge from disadvantaged minorities, integrating their cultural heritage into their stylistic codes. Having become references beyond the simple musical universe, they contribute to the creation of a model . Moreover, they paved the way for a new conception of fashion, mixing street influence and luxury ...
On the left, a young Snoop Dogg during the filming of his first music video "Who I Am?" in 1993. On the right, Rihanna appropriating the Gucci style during the Coachella music festival in 2017.
Streetwear and fashion: I love you, me neither
Difficult beginnings
Apart from a few specific examples, such as Marithé + François Girbaud and their baggy pants, "fashion" has long remained impervious to streetwear...
The time when Lacoste tried to stem an unprecedented phenomenon: the appropriation of its clothes is now long gone. by young people from the French suburbs. Determined to "fight back", the brand will get stuck in a struggle to free itself from the derogatory image of city rappers.
Members of the hip-hop group Arsenik in Lacoste.
However, for its fall/winter 2018-2019 collection, the models paraded to music by the hip-hop group Wu-Tang Clan , bobs screwed onto their heads, dressed in jackets decorated with the crocodile and fleece jogging pants.
How can we explain this turnaround?
Birth of “streetwear couture”
We are seeing the emergence of a new generation of designers, raised in the 80s — with all the references that this implies. Names like Ricardo Tisci (Givenchy), Kim Jones (Louis Vuitton), Virgil Abloh (Off-White), Stéphane Ashpool (Pigalle) or Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga then VÊTEMENTS) are thus proposing a new idea of style. .
The Houses are being shaken up, couture is flirting with the street.
Presentation of the Pigalle brand, spring/summer 2017-2018.
This approach also responds to a growing need for brands - luxury brands in particular - to attract young people who no longer identify with a wardrobe that is too classic and rarely renews itself. This approach is therefore a new way to court a connected clientele that is fond of novelty.
It is this same strategy that has led major labels to collaborate with influential personalities, who have become references in terms of streetwear. Today, Pharell Williams parades for Chanel, Rihanna has become the face of Dior, Nekfeu signs a collaboration with Agnès B. and the Smith children squat the front row of Vuitton shows.
From left to right: Jaden Smith at the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2017-2018 show; Pharell Williams walking for Chanel in 2016.
A frantic bidding war, which all these Houses are engaging in, giving themselves a facelift in the process. A more "cool" identity, without which they would seem outdated.
Some celebrities, with street DNA, have also launched their own clothing business . For example, we can cite the Yeezy label, launched by Kanye West, Unküt by Booba or, more recently, the Avnier brand created by Orelsan .
Kanye West presenting the collaboration between Adidas and his brand Yeezy.
What about the fashion of collaborations?
In recent years, a new phenomenon has taken over the fashion world: collaborations. The concept is simple: bring together two entities with very distinct identities at first glance, to generate interest among a wider audience, thanks to limited edition pieces.
Rarity creates desire and brands have understood this well. The buyer is motivated by exclusivity, sometimes turning into a real collector. This practice is all the more common in streetwear, where urban brands associate with luxury labels. The effect is immediate, these limited collections are snapped up at prohibitive prices. Not to mention the resale prices between individuals!
Supreme x Louis Vuitton.
While some pieces may be worth it — from a strictly stylistic standpoint , at least — it's important to keep in mind that marketing is often the main focus of these collabs. Some are actually quite unlikely, like the upcoming IKEA x Off-White .
Streetwear: marker of a generation?
More than any other style, streetwear transcends social classes. .
It echoes deeper societal changes . For starters, the world of work has changed: there is less of a question of conformity, individuality and the right of each person to express themselves are increasingly being put forward.
The suit and tie is no longer always the norm. This norm, associated with the conception of masculine power, is becoming rarer, even in the political sphere. .
These changes are reflected in the way men dress. We favor comfort and practicality, we assert our references more and we let ourselves go to originality.
How to adopt the streetwear style?
It can be hard to know where to go, as there are so many possibilities with this style. Don't worry, we'll give you all our tips to become a streetwear " OG" !
The Ten Commandments of Streetwear
- Be careful not to overdo it . While streetwear allows for more freedom than other styles— tailoring , to name one—be sure to maintain a certain consistency.
- Avoiding too many designers . This is an objection that we often hear from purists: "fashion designers devalue, distort the original streetwear wardrobe, to disguise people who have no affinity with its history" .
- Turn to vintage . For those looking for more authenticity, vintage, which you can find in thrift stores for example, can be a real gold mine. Be careful, "it's not because it's vintage that it's beautiful" .
- Dare to DIY. At the beginning, streetwear was a "make do" style. We recovered, recycled, and diverted. "Do It Yourself" can be a way to make it your own by giving free rein to your creativity.
- Start with small touches. We start by replacing a pair of derby shoes with sneakers, we accessorize... Don't swap the suit for a Lacoste outfit overnight.
The cap is enough to give a more street side to this biker look.
- Adopt beautiful sneakers, the true foundation of streetwear. The plurality of existing brands and models gives you a varied choice. If I advise you to acquire basics (the eternal white sneakers) at first, you can then move on to more original pieces.
- Mix styles. Always with the idea of creating a silhouette that remains coherent and aesthetic, don't hesitate to mix street influences with more classic ones: the combinations of joggers /overcoats, mackintosh/hoodies, blazers/sneakers, even if they don't necessarily seem obvious, work very well.
- Think about layering. Streetwear is a style that you compose by feeling, by combining pieces of different colors, textures and volumes. Mastering layering in your outfits allows this particular alchemy.
Layering is an interesting solution to add depth to the look.
- Mastering volumes. Oversized is part of the DNA of streetwear. Far from the extra large t-shirts of hip-hop singers, we now wear oversized coats/jackets, which add thickness to the silhouette. Wide pants are also making a comeback.
- Have some references . You don't need to be a fan of the champion Tony Alva, or a fan of Lil Uzi Vert 's songs, to adopt a streetwear style. That said, keep in mind that it is a style loaded with history and claims that, in a certain way, we wear at the same time as the clothes associated with it.
Streetwear look ideas
To illustrate my point, I decided to pose under the lens of Alex , our community manager. .
While these are essentially proposals that incorporate streetwear basics, it is always possible to go further in the stylistic bias.
I would also like to thank the shops and brands that lent me the pieces I am wearing in the photos: the Centre Commercial shop, the Beige Habilleur e-shop, the Wrung Division brand, the Marithé François Girbaud brand, the Agnès B brand.
I wear a base composed of typically streetwear pieces: a gray hoodie, bleached jeans that add a vintage touch, and a pair of Vans. By adding a camel straight trench coat, we tone down the whole thing, which avoids the impression of being in Sunday best. For a more emphatic style, choose wool mittens, less classic than a pair of leather gloves.
Here, the idea is to recall the proximity between sportswear and streetwear: I wear elastane pants similar to jogging pants, white sneakers with Velcro and a simple t-shirt. As for accessories, I choose a 24h de sport to stay in the same spirit, and a hat that enhances the whole with a touch of color. We finish with an oversized gray overcoat: it brings texture and a certain "nobility" to the look.
The streetwear influence is less obvious here. I start with a casual base, to which I add a patterned t-shirt and a pair of slightly worn sneakers for nonchalance. Mixed with a suede bomber and raw denim, the contrast offers an interesting result. The accessories finish dressing the silhouette.
I paired chunky striped pants with an oversized denim jacket, reminiscent of 80s cuts. Graphic tees are a streetwear staple — be careful not to overdo it, or you'll end up looking like an eternal teenager. By focusing on simple shades, you'll have no trouble taming patterns !
What's more streetwear than playing skater? Adopt a hoodie (rather original here, with its zip), worn over raw jeans. The very wide cuffs bring a casual side to the outfit. The sneakers, although colorful, fit in without difficulty. The backwards cap is a little wink, almost cliché... As for knowing whether you should keep the visor at the front or at the back, it's a matter of taste!
To go further...
For those who would like to explore this style further, here are some other looks to inspire you.
A perfect example of layering, stacking a hoodie, a plaid shirt and a puffer jacket in flashy colours highlights the build. The shades complement each other. We complete with a bleached, whose pale shade soothes the others. The jeans are cut on the bottom of the leg for the "rebel" side (possible to do it yourself on old jeans...). The sneakers take up the tones of the top of the outfit. All the ingredients are there.
The whole outfit is composed of pieces that were originally rather dressy, but in an oversized version to accentuate the casualness. It's a good way to play with styles. Add a pair of colorful sneakers to wake up the whole thing and bring a more street touch.
More daring, we can also bet on a strong piece: the sweatshirt does all the work. This clearly implies assuming it. Otherwise, why not!
This look features the famous faded jeans cut at the calf. They are worn with classic sneakers, revealing white socks to really highlight the sportswear influence. The silhouette is built in contrast, with a top made up of casual pieces with a vintage look. The cap and belt with a vintage design complete the ensemble.
Brand selection
Today, it is possible to find typically streetwear pieces in the collections of most brands, whether it is their preferred style or not.
For those looking for specialist labels with historically street DNA, I have selected a few references for you to turn to.
Designer brands
Bastien Laurent and Laura Do, the two creators of the Avoc brand.
- Pigalle
- Gosha Rubchinskiy
- AVOC
- Like Boys
- Martine Rose
Historical brands
Stüssy collection celebrating the brand's 35th anniversary.
- Stussy
- Wrung Division
- Supreme
- Volcom
- BAPE
General brands
Palace Skateboards 2016 Collection Launch, London, 2016.
Sneakers brands
Photo from the Adidas catalog model 1971.
The final word...
An iconic style of subcultures from the 80s to the 90s, streetwear has now lost the subversive aspect of its beginnings. Popularized, it has now established itself as a reference in terms of clothing, both in terms of aesthetics and design as well as in the values it conveys.
As a consequence of its history, there are a thousand and one ways to approach this style. More than a trend, it is now akin to an underlying current, from which everyone can draw and make it their own.
