When starting out, it is recommended to focus on fitted pieces. It’s even a necessary step. We thus learn to know our silhouette and what suits us, we can combine our clothes without having to worry about cuts... In short, it's simply easier.
Once this stage has passed, we seek to personalize our style. Depending on their profile, some will opt for original color palettes, accessories that resemble them, slightly special materials... There is no shortage of possibilities.
A strong piece, consistent colors, accessories that personalize the whole... No doubt, it's a success, but we remain in the classic approach to cuts.
That being said, whether out of apprehension or out of habit, many men do not dare to play with volumes. However, building looks around different proportions and relying on oversized pieces can clearly add character to a style.
So, how to do it?
Oversized and loose-fitting : what do we mean by that?
Different proportions
If translated literally, oversized means “oversized”. Loose-fitting refers to the notion of loose cut.
In other words, we're talking about clothes that give you a certain freedom of movement, without making you into sacks of potatoes . The idea behind it is to combine comfort - no shirt buttons ready to explode, nor seams ready to burst - with style, and to find a balance between the two.
By the way: does oversized necessarily mean wider? In most cases yes, but oversized can also be done by length. This will be the case a lot in streetwear for example, with the famous long sweatshirts.
Last clarification: I'm XS. By loose and oversized clothes, I'm not talking about just going for an M so it looks like it's cut large (although that can sometimes do that). Throughout the article, we will therefore focus on pieces designed to be worn with more ease, whose cut and details have been calibrated for.
A twist for all body types?
As soon as we touch on volumes, the question of morphologies arises.
In itself, oversized can be practiced by everyone:
- Tall and thin people will have no problem.
- For those of short stature, playing on the volumes can be interesting to flesh out the bust for example. However, be careful with pieces that are too long and loose pants, which could tend to visually pack their wearer .
- For corpulent silhouettes, I advise you to avoid materials that are too fluid which tend to emphasize curves. It is easier, at least initially, to opt for pieces in materials with staying power.
Of course, there are no hard and fast rules and some looks will prove me wrong. Above all, I'm giving you directions to guide you, but don't hesitate to try if a piece catches your fancy, of course! For example, this gentleman is 1.66m tall. (Credits: Tommy Ton)
How to create an oversized outfit?
Only one rule: deconstruct your silhouette... in balance
By deconstructing the volumes of your silhouette too much, you end up not having any at all.
Without much surprise, we find the famous rule of contrast. If you opt for a loose top, the bottom will need to be fitted and vice versa.
In the same spirit, we will avoid having an accordion on each ankle if we wear a long piece
I will place more emphasis on the first aspect, as it is the one we encounter most often.
Option #1: loose top and fitted bottom
In my opinion, this is the best place to start: loose pants are more difficult to wear than a generously cut knit or jacket.
Maybe you already do it from time to time, without really realizing it. A slightly loose cardigan left open, or a trench coat that's a bit too big, is already one approach!
Here, we have a real opposition between the loose, long top and the much more fitted bottom (perhaps a little too much for some, in fact). It is precisely this opposition that we must look for! Using knits for this type of look is an easy and effective choice. Let your cardigan live on your shoulders, it will take care of the rest. (Credits: Pinterest)
On the same principle, we can also count on jackets/blousons/coats, which bring “fuzziness” all by themselves. Let's look at it in pictures.
For once, the coat really gives its final impetus to the outfit. Shoulders without padding and very low armholes: it has an almost "enveloping" side, giving off a great impression of cocoon-style comfort. This is also reinforced by the large patch pockets. Besides this, the tailored collar counteracts the great relaxation of the cut and ultimately makes it quite simple to wear. The rest of the outfit remains sober, letting the duck blue coat "express itself" fully. (Credits: The Idle Man)
Same idea, different atmosphere. We find two oversized coats but this time, they emphasize the build much more than they call for relaxation. With their very straight shoulders and cut, they create an almost rectangular silhouette, appearing more imposing than it actually is. Coupled with the double-breasted suits underneath, the result is particularly elegant: there is real presence. (Credits: Nordstrom Image)
Much more casual, denim jackets lend themselves well to this type of exercise. Whether it is a model with a strong design...
...Or a more vintage line. Generally speaking, streetwear is a style where oversized is very often found, playing on the codes between retro/vintage clothing and other current pieces.
The leather jacket is no exception, we can also adopt it in a loose version like our friend on the right in the photo. On the other hand, without even talking about cut or fit, the perfecto is a piece already anchored in a strong imagination. By choosing to wear it like this, we further emphasize its "black jacket" origins and its slightly thug side. The result is interesting, but rather to be reproduced if these influences really speak to us. By the way, if this type of item interests you, this is the type of cut that you can find in thrift stores.
If we now look at the other pieces, as you can imagine, a t-shirt is very easy to wear loose . The same goes for a sweatshirt, but what about shirts?
If it becomes difficult to look formal with a loose shirt, it is entirely possible with more casual looks. The proof :
With a light and textured material, like linen for example, the white shirt loses its formal DNA. The rolled up sleeves and the soft unbuttoned collar introduce a certain nonchalance. On a smaller scale, the beard and sunglasses also play this role. Note in passing the twist on the green shoes, worn with striped socks: daring but successful. (Credits: The Idle Man)
Option #2: loose pants and fitted top
Pants with more room will give you more comfort, especially in summer. The possibilities are, however, fewer than in the first option, which does not mean that there is nothing to take!
To start, why not go for jeans with a less sharp cut? Our colleague Boris from BORASIFICATION, whom you have seen in our columns, does it very well.
We are taking an approach that remains measured. That said, the straight cut of the jeans already allows you to create a slight contrast with the top of the look, thus emphasizing its workwear accents.
Special mention to this look, with almost bell-bottom pants. If we avoid the very negative connotation of this cut, it is notably thanks to the use of flannel (I guarantee a diametrically different result with denim).
Otherwise, some pants are inherently suitable for loose fitting .
This is particularly the case for jodhpur, Indian riding pants popularized by British officers. It has a very particular cut, with darts at the thigh which form a sort of gusset providing ease. Moreover, the leg is tapered and fitted to the calves.
We all must have seen this impressive look of Nick Wooster in jodhpur. This “loose/fitted” opposition naturally contained in the piece already makes it a first step towards elaborate silhouettes. The ample thigh provides relaxation which is rebalanced by fitted calves completing the silhouette.
At Clark Gable, the jodhpur is worn with a leather jacket and a turtleneck. Note how the jacket, closed just at the bottom, creates a delineation at the waist.
In the volume pants family, I ask for cargo! Its pockets naturally create them, and you can accentuate it by wearing it with a much more structured top.
Cargo creates volume in the outfit. Another interest: its massive appearance comes from the presence of pockets and not only from the width of the cut. However, it remains very well controlled here: the pinroll hem on the bottom of the leg allows the pants to be slimmer at the ankles, where the top of the outfit remains quite fitted.
There are also pants with a completely loose fit, from the belt to the ankle. They can add a lot to a look but be careful, it immediately becomes more “stunning”.
Why does it work? The belt demarcates the top very clearly, we can see where the two parts of the outfit begin and end. In addition, he remembers to keep the shoes fully visible (which is not always the case with these types of pants) and pushes to leave the ankles visible. Finally, he creates reminders to tie everything together, like between the t-shirt and white sneakers.
I also advise you to choose this type of pants when its cut has almost an architectural side (presence of pleats, very thoughtful draping) and especially not baggy just for the sake of it. Finally, unless you feel a deep Ottoman or roots influence in you, your choice...
Can you create a 100% oversized look?
Yes, it is actually possible. Well executed, it's even very beautiful but you see me coming, don't you? In the complicated genre, it's really difficult to do...
If you want to try it, I advise you to always make sure that the ends of the look are well defined:
- Don't let your shoes get eaten by your pants . High-top shoes are often a good option, as are exposed ankles.
- Don't overuse accessories or headwear , as your outfit is sufficiently complex in itself.
Wide pants, long t-shirt and jacket that seems straight, we are in full oversized. Why does this work? The layered white t-shirt creates a point of light in the middle of the blue, helping us to visually delineate the elements of the outfit. The bottom has been rolled, also allowing us to see where the silhouette ends. Finally, the look is not overloaded beyond reason. (Credits: Pinterest)
I drop this look here, like this. I came across it while doing my research for illustrations and wanted to share it with you. It's an all white outfit, with draping throughout, cutouts on the sleeves and sandals. Improbable, in short. Despite everything, I find it successful. Without encouraging you to go in this stylistic direction, don't hesitate to look at what is being done in lookbooks and fashion shows: they are great sources of ideas for cutting-edge looks.
The final word...
Once you want to move away from the basics, you tend to: focus on pieces with various connotations to enrich your style; research new materials; wear original colors... but we often neglect oversized looks.
However, they constitute an interesting alternative to the all-fitted ones that we mostly find: your looks become more sophisticated, not to mention more comfortable.
Overall, there are two possibilities: wear a loose top and a tight bottom, and vice versa. You can easily get started: a slightly wide bomber jacket, rolled-up straight jeans, or even a very long scarf that you wrap around it does the job perfectly at the start.
The most experienced will then be able to try completely deconstructed looks, thus creating racy and unique looks.
And you, what do you think of oversized ? Do you have the habit of constructing your outfits by playing with volumes? How do you do ? Tell me all about it in the comments.
