Have you ever worn faded jeans? Techwear-inspired, sportswear-inspired, or containing materials such as elastane and polyamide? If so, know that designers Marithé Bachellerie and François Girbaud are — most likely — responsible for it.
The designer couple today.
Less well-known among younger generations, the Marithé + François Girbaud brand was nevertheless, for several years , a reference in inventive and offbeat fashion, embodying the idea of a differentiating and sustainable product.
After a difficult and unclear period , the brand is gradually returning to the forefront, establishing itself as a label more dedicated to techwear and campaigning for environmentally friendly fashion.
Their credo: reinvent themselves, retell their stories by mixing technique and aesthetics in each of their creations.
Why did I want to write this article?
Four years ago now, I had the chance to meet Marithé. Through her contact, I learned a little more to appreciate clothing and creation.
When I arrived at BonneGueule, I knew that some members of the team - notably Benoit — were big fans of techwear. I then wanted to make (re)discover, to as many people as possible, the story of this very special duo.
One of my meetings with François Girbaud, who returned from Los Angeles to present the collaborative line Marithé + François Girbaud feat. Closed (which is one of their old brands).
To this end, I asked Marithé to open her door to me once more, and to take out the souvenir albums. It was also the perfect opportunity for her to introduce me to the new Girbaud line...
Once upon a time... Marithé + François Girbaud
François Girbaud: The revolutionary designer
François Girbaud was born in 1945 in Mazamet , the capital of wool-washing .
As a young man, he worked in a suitcase factory during the day and devoted himself to his rock'n roll band. the rest of the time. He dreams of adventures, of America and escapes by writing to his idols , then began to frequent the music world.
He eventually met the founder of the first Western House boutique in Paris, where he would end up working. Shortly after, he would take over the management of the second Western House , in Saint-Tropez.
It's the 60s, the era of hippie chic and Brigitte Bardot 's Saint-Tropez. It's at this moment that his path crosses that of Marithé.
François Girbaud young.
Marithé Bachellerie: The dreamy seamstress
Marithé Bachellerie was born in 1942 in Lyon, where she spent the first twenty years of her life.
Even as a child, she was passionate about sewing and made clothes for her sister's doll. Her mother introduced her to fashion at a very young age by taking her to amateur fashion shows organized by a few fashion houses in Lyon. Her father was a top-level cyclist. He took part in the Tour de France several times. She remembers the technical materials and cuts of sportswear , which inspired her when creating the brand's first sportswear lines.
A true artist at heart and somewhat of a hippie, she dreamed of becoming an actress and "went up" to Paris to settle there in 1965. Initially a hairdresser, she quickly turned to clothing design and began knitting ponchos. An expert in knitting, she hung out with a group of artists and found herself in 1967 at the Western House in Saint-Tropez .
Although the shop was not a commercial success, it became a meeting place for the originals of the moment. That year, she met François Girbaud for the first time, then manager of the shop.
Marithé Bachellerie Girbaud young.
One day, two destinies...
After their first meeting in the Western House boutique in Saint-Tropez, Marithé and François find themselves in the original boutique in Paris.
Johnny Hallyday, a great friend of the two stylists, came to do his shopping at the Western House in Saint-Tropez in the 1960s.
At the time, it was located in the Saint-Ferdinand district, among the motorcycle and two-wheeler shops. . A small urban legend, this brand is the only one to sell products that evoke the Far West and, more generally, America of the time : cowboy gear, surplus uniforms, new jeans. , fringed suede jackets, boots of all kinds and even pony saddles.
François decides to distribute some of the ponchos that Marithé knits. The success is immediate and marks the beginning of their long shared adventure.
The Gold Rush (Blue): Girbaud Jeans
At the end of the 60s, Marithé and François were already having fun fading their own jeans , new Wrangler models. In addition, they were also looking to transform jeans to Europeanize them, a piece that was still exclusively American. .
Marithé and François then revised the cut and fit: they made it more fitted, adjusted it at the buttocks and hips, and adapted it for both men and women. . From then on, there were many innovations. The silhouette of the Girbaud jean was such a revolution that Americans would talk about French jeans .
The city of Greensboro in North Carolina, where Marithé and François produced their jeans for a long time. Two streets are named in their honor: Francois Court and Marithe Court.
For the record, there were only three major families of jeans. Levi's for cowboys and gold diggers . Wrangler for the rodeo. And Lee for the cotton fields of the Southern states." Yet today, for American manufacturers, "there are four ways to construct a pair of jeans: Levi's, Wrangler, Lee and Girbaud's ." .
The brand's success will be greater across the Atlantic than in France.
Multi-brand and multi-hat
To fully understand the duo's success, you have to understand the logic and thinking that drives them. Far from seeking fame, Marithé and François consider themselves artists, but also technicians or inventors (a little crazy). They are always looking to develop the product, improve the quality of the material, its functionalities and to invent a new aesthetic.
Like all scientists, they research and experiment until the project is completed. Once it is completed, they move on to another. This is why, throughout their career, they create many brands (the list is not exhaustive):
- Maillaparty, a brand dedicated to knitwear and knitting.
- Momento Due, to explore men’s ready-to-wear.
- Closed then Métamorphojean, two pioneering brands in the production of jeans.
An advertising campaign visual for the designer jeans brand: Closed.
- SPQRCITY, a label dedicated to the first lines of sportswear inspiration.
- Compagnie des Montagnes et des Forêts, for their creations around leather.
An example of the stylists' creation on leather: "Tatooed Leather".
Finally, the duo considers that a name too often conveys a single image, thus imposing a reductive framework. Offering its creations under several labels allows it to explore numerous possibilities.
They only used the name Marithé + François Girbaud later in their career, when the success was already global. The brand then entered into a more "traditional" logic and established itself as a real player in high-end fashion of the 80s... without ever taking itself seriously.
"Speak Girbaud"...
In order to promote the brand, Marithé and François get into the habit of communicating in a completely atypical way.
Having no pre-established strategy, their success is reinforced thanks to the image they acquire by dressing many celebrities and friends, such as Johnny Halliday, Daniel Balavoine, Marlène Jobert, Coluche, Florent Pagny, Jennifer Beals...
On the left, François and Daniel Balavoine, on the right, Marithé and Isabelle Adjani.
Through chance and encounters, they surround themselves with influential figures from the worlds of fashion, the arts and the media, notably Jean-Luc Godard... This genius director will be responsible for producing three series of short TV spots for them. in the late 80s.
In addition to these collaborations, the eccentric creative duo focuses their communication somewhere halfway between provocation, surprise and reflection.
We were common jeans merchants, coming out of the backyards of Sentier, and suddenly we became the intellectuals of fashion! — Marithé
We will particularly note:
- The A Higher State of Evolution campaign, featuring cellophane-wrapped models, was deemed to incite suicide and banned from some American magazines.
- The models from the Escape with Rocco Siffredi collection, featuring very low-waisted jeans...
On the left, the "ultra-low" waist jeans style, on the right a cellophane-wrapped mannequin.
- More than any other, the campaign featuring the now well-known advertising poster for The Last Supper ...
The famous controversial visual: representation of the Last Supper, Girbaud version. The height of blasphemy, Jesus is represented as a woman.
Their relationship with the media is also very particular - they send out completely crazy, even incomprehensible, press releases - so much so that at the time, the jokes were rife in the fashion circles: "Do you speak Girbaud?"; "Do you write Girbaud?", we heard at dinner parties. A taste for teasing that the two fashion troublemakers loved to maintain.
The creative legacy of Marithé and François Girbaud...
The Girbaud epic is a millefeuille of dates, ideas, innovations and anecdotes, each more interesting than the last...
The kind of creative and eccentric campaign, deeply aesthetic, that only the Girbauds have the secret to.
The epic of Jean Girbaud
In my wardrobe, I have a pair of Marithé + François Girbaud jeans that are almost 10 years old. Their particular touch evokes in me the touch of my partner. When I wear them, they help me eliminate fatigue and make me want to go home. — Yohji Yamamoto
Girbaud jeans can today be considered as very special creations, conveying a story, an imagination halfway between durability, audacity and madness.
The washout
As explained above in the article, Marithé and François became interested in fading at the end of the 1960s. They began by fading their pieces in a laundromat in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, then in a more industrial laundromat in Belleville.
This industrialization of the washing process really launched their career . Very quickly, they concentrated their efforts and looked for new processes to achieve a result different from natural washing. They would use chemicals such as chlorine, which artificially wears out the jeans and requires the addition of large quantities of water in the process.
However, when the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, the designers were struck by the arrival of thousands of poor quality jeans worn by the youth of the Eastern bloc of Europe. These models, bleached and acid-washed, were the cause of colossal environmental degradation and a huge waste of natural resources (especially water). This was the trigger that would push the duo to move towards processes that were more respectful of the natural ecosystem.
The Stonewash
In the meantime, Marithé and François invented a technique that would become a milestone in the history of textiles . In the mid-1970s, their research took them to Italy.
The explanatory diagram of Marithé François Girbaud's Stonewash and an oversized pair of jeans treated using this method.
They developed a process that is now called Stonewash. . They wash jeans on a large scale, washing them in huge laundries and adding volcanic stones from Lipari to the process. The result is completely new, with the streaks of the wash being more pronounced and less extensive. The fabric is, in a way, sanded during the treatment: the addition of detergents is now unnecessary.
I admit that at the beginning, we sent a lot of machines to the scrapyard. But gradually, with the technicians, we found ways to avoid damaging the equipment while keeping the result we wanted. - Marithé
Stonewash is also a first step towards a more flexible jean, still very rigid at the time, which is "softened" by the stones.
The WattWash
From 2003, the duo was at the origin of a new technique for washing jeans.
In fact, it is more about engraving the jeans using a technology that will "bite" the denim with a laser beam . At that time, Marithé and François called this process Imajean, which would become WattWash in 2008 to emphasize the idea of using light in order to achieve surprising results.
This technical process was born above all from a reflection aimed at experimenting with a new way of treating jeans without polluting and saving natural resources such as water. A saving of more than 97% of water...
Controlled from a computer, it is then possible to trace any pattern on a denim canvas. Combining light and ozone, the jeans are engraved as a whole according to a predefined digital model or just on a small part of the room.
Just like Stonewash, this technology provides greater flexibility to the fabric , which becomes more comfortable to wear.
Finally, WattWash can be adapted and applied to other materials such as leather. I myself, during an evening organized for the release of their new line, had one of my leathers engraved on the sleeve: the rendering is precise and has not changed since. An opportunity to buy personalized and unique pieces.
Cut and innovation
In addition to having been at the origin of models that are still relevant today - the baggy, for example - they have above all (re)invented silhouettes by designing new and unique pieces.
A representative diagram of what designers have called the Girbaud "Jeanealogie".
Few houses have varied their cuts so much and offered the public such a wide range of pieces.
"The overwhelming majority of designers built, and still build today, silhouettes starting from the top. For us, it was more from the bottom: pants, jeans... Ultimately, it's just as important!" - Marithé
They will work a lot on movement, adapting the pants to new postures, new attitudes: "ultra-low waist" jeans; ultra oversized pants; modular models (with Velcro, for example); jeans with visible construction lines; new compositions of materials integrating stretch ...
The roots of streetwear, the precursors of sportswear
The legacy of Girbaud's creations in the various "stylistic" movements is often overlooked, although absolutely fundamental.
In fact, one day I was wearing François' jeans, we were having fun. I put them on and tied them at the waist with a rope... and there you have it, we had invented baggy jeans. - Marithé
Today, the big streetwear trend is booming. Many of these designers explain that they "get inspiration" from the street for their creations. Marithé and François were already bringing street fashion to the catwalks. Better still, they invented alternatives... always a bit by chance.
A visual from the Jump video clip by the group Kris Kross, with the example of Girbaud baggy jeans.
The example of the baggy is striking. Once the idea germinated in the minds of the creators, the model was quickly adopted by African sappers and American rappers. These pants allow freedom of movement, precious for dancers or "mobile" artists. In 1992, the group Kris Kross wore a Girbaud "baggy" in its Jump video clip. Marithé + François Girbaud then became a reference brand for street fashion , which would be defined, a little later, as streetwear .
At the same time, they were among the first to imagine sportswear-inspired clothing for the everyday wardrobe. Technical, stretchy and even reflective materials were incorporated into all their pieces (even the most dressy ones).
At the same time, their communication adapts. They highlight visuals and campaigns symbolizing movement and sport, collaborating with great dancers like the Étoile Sylvie Guillem.
Commitment to the planet
The textile industry is today one of the most polluting in the world (the second according to some studies).
Traditionally, it takes an average of 70 liters of water to "wash" a pair of jeans. Then 150 grams of permanganate are added, or 600,000 tons per year. Plus about one kw/h of energy used per pair of jeans. About four billion jeans are produced each year, you see the immensity of the savings that can be made! The waste of water that can be avoided! — François Girbaud
Marithé and François became aware of this in the late 1980s. They paved the way for ethical and clean fashion . The Wattwash process is a perfect example: water consumption reduced by more than 97% in the washing of jeans and the absence of the use of chemical agents.
On the left, the green wall of a Girbaud boutique, on the right a photo of the plant labyrinth of one of their fashion shows.
In addition to their "industrial" experiments, the Girbaud duo pushed their commitment to the point of their creative approach: video installations advocating the interactivity of plants and textiles in their fashion shows, podiums in the form of a "plant" labyrinth, integration of green walls in their various boutiques... Marithé and François Girbaud became and still remain militant stylists today.
The brand today...
When we ask Girbaud clothing "consumers", we see that they are often real fans, members of an extremely loyal community . The duo has always focused on customer loyalty, sometimes neglecting new mass communication tools.
Unfortunately, combined with some complex legal setbacks, the failed digital shift led the brand to cease production in 2013.
Since 2015, surrounded by a solid team of former collaborators, the designers have gotten back on track by launching a new line and a new concept: Mad Lane.
Mad Lane (by Proust)
After their compulsory liquidation, the Girbaud duo decided to take advantage of the opportunity to reinvent themselves.
François, from Los Angeles, works on the line. Marithé, who stayed in France with the rest of the team, brings her creative touch and organizes the business by meeting technicians and manufacturers. Between 2015 and 2016, the Mad Lane collection is ready.
Why this name? Well, to recall the "madeleine de Proust", evocative of memory. On the English translation side, we get "la folie" ("mad") and a consonance "lane"-"laine". A form of self-mockery that is specific to them.
Designer techwear
Today, the Girbaud team offers a line with techwear and sportswear inspirations . The creations are imbued with a touch of futurism, inspired by almost military uniform designs.
Clothing designed to promote movement and comfort.
True to the "Girbaud" spirit, the clothes are designed to adapt to movement , both in their cut and the materials used. They are also designed to adapt to changing climatic conditions .
The duo explains that they want to dress the "new nomads", those who travel or move around a lot, and who are looking for products that combine aesthetics and practicality.
Two silhouettes from the men's line.
In terms of materials, we find compositions based on Japanese twill, cotton, but also synthetic materials such as elastane or lycra. This is a technical bias: finding relevant compositions for maximized comfort, better hold and greater durability .
Finally, Marithé and François decided to break away from the usual logic of fashion shows six months in advance:
We are certainly not mainstream enough to be copied by the fast-fashion giants at the moment, even if I see here and there, sometimes, some of the old Girbaud. You know, we have never been bothered by copying. On the contrary, at the time, rather than getting involved in long and costly legal battles, we went to see our copiers and offered them to work with us. Some of them became our best producers and friends. It was fun and rather flattering to be copied. But now... do you think you can negotiate with Zara and H&M...? — Marithé
The small selection...
The Motorist model
Padded "puffer" jacket , perfect for spending the winter. The goose down keeps you warm while the nylon lining guarantees good insulation. The detail of the leather inserts adds character to the piece.
The Kaban Bomber model
Perfect mix between a long pea coat (80% wool, 20% polyamide) and a bomber jacket: a very urban piece , which mixes streetwear and more classic influences.
The Capuvest model
An original jacket , with a technical hood (elastane and polyamide) that is quite breathable, designed for travel. Insulating, it has contrasting aesthetic details and heat-sealed seams (especially at the pockets).
The Primojack model
A jacket derived from the blazer, in technical material, breathable with its perforated lining. The edges of the collar are laser cut. It is a simple piece, perfect for creating a slightly offbeat casual look.
Jeans remain the core business of the label . The designs and cuts are quite innovative, we always find compositions that ensure elasticity and robustness to the piece. The integration of stretch threads, woven vertically, allows to remain mobile.
The Pedal Gear Model
A jean sewn with vertical stretch for more comfort. The cut is quite loose with, as details, side openings showing the reverse of the jeans.
The Miner Model
Skinny fit and low waist for this model of jeans in 98% cotton. Side X-pockets and stitching (Girbaud signatures). A revisited basic from the brand's wardrobe.
The Pocket Slits model
Although they are not jeans, these pants can be worn in a slightly more dressed-up look. Simple design, technical material, pleasant and comfortable, quite fitted and tightened towards the bottom to shape the leg and buttocks.
And what about the price?
The prices displayed, as with any brand that can be described as "designer", can seem quite high.
Today, Girbaud is a small team. Our production and distribution system allows us to pay attention to stocks, but we still have to manage to sell without advertising and with reduced means. It's hard and we don't make a huge margin. - Marithé
These rates are linked to the materials used, the technical processes (which involve R&D) and the story behind each product.
I remember that when he was young, François wanted a guitar, so he worked for a month and put almost his entire pay into it. That was it back then, we worked to buy something we dreamed of. Today, we are constantly solicited, exposed to hundreds of products. The younger ones, you know everything. So much so that you don't want anything anymore, you get tired of it before you even own it. Look, you, what do you want for Christmas?
- I don't know...
- You see? With Girbaud, I have the idea that people who like beautiful clothes, for whom it is a pleasure, will be able to buy something durable, useful and that they will not get tired of. Many of our old customers still have some pieces from ten or twenty years ago. It warms the heart! — Marithé
Eternal nomads...
During their "absence", François and Marithé thought about a new method of distribution.
The return of the brand, especially online.
Fond of human contact, passionate and eager to be able to directly explain the history of their products to their customers, they decided to offer their new line during traveling sales throughout France.
They organize "event" sales in many cities, by appointment. It is a certain idea of the customer experience that they wish to develop.
How does it work?
Simply make an appointment on the site by registering for the sale of your choice . We then go to the space set up for the occasion, where we discover the entire collection and benefit from Marithé's personalized advice and explanations. or members of the Girbaud team.
If you like a piece, you can take it home with you, or order it online afterwards. They also partner with several small brands to offer unique and original pieces in the form of one-off collaborations.
On the left, the Girbaud team at a sale in Paris, on the right, Marithé, François and their granddaughter.
This system allows the brand to intelligently manage its stocks, avoiding any possible surplus. It is also an excellent way to test products directly with customers and target them more accurately.
For example, you will be able to attend the next "Madlane Tour" sale in Paris from February 1 to 3.
A resolutely digital strategy
Marithé and François noted that their return had sparked a surge of enthusiasm from a "community of loyal followers", true aficionados of the label.
Seeing that they were able to unite people to this extent, they now want to transcribe this spirit online and position themselves in a more digital segment.
The brand has invested a lot to launch into online commerce and digital communication. They now have an e-shop that you can find here .
Their main challenge is to reach a younger audience , looking for quality, durable and differentiating products. Indeed, designers want to keep their original brand image: dressing in Girbaud is already a very strong bias. It is assuming a certain style.
The final word...
Always so innovative and inspiring, this brand is an excellent address for all fans of techwear or sportswear. The unique pieces, almost on the verge of prototype, will allow you to enhance any of your looks by integrating an original touch.
If the price may put some people off, it is explained by all the work put into the creation and remains completely honest. Having Girbaud pieces in perfect condition myself — some six or seven years old — I can assure you that the promise is kept. I look forward to discovering the next results of this beautiful addition that is Marithé + François = Girbaud .
Finally, I would like to thank Marithé for receiving me and answering all my questions. If you would like to know more, I recommend the book Marithé + François Girbaud: From Stone to Light , which I recommend reading to those who would like to know a little more after reading this article. In addition to the written work, the visuals offer a total immersion in the duo's universe.
