When winter comes, we tend to put our leather jackets in the closet.
These parts often represent a large investment. If they are indeed suitable for mid-season , it would be a shame to limit ourselves to them.
Among the most sought-after skins is shearling. , combining softness, robustness and warmth. However, is this the only option? How can leather find its place in a winter wardrobe?
This is what we are going to see today!
What types of leather to wear in winter?
A material to wear... in all seasons
We think leather is made for spring or summer evenings, but that's not true! At least in part, let me explain...
The material acts in a real wind-couple: it does not let air through at all! On the other hand, with some exceptions, it is not a very good thermal insulator, and does not tolerate bad weather .
To put it simply: no leather when it rains or the mercury drops too low, unless it is worn as a down jacket .
A reversible nappa down jacket from Massimo Dutti . The brand can have very beautiful skins!
Once this observation is made, we can say that leathers, whatever they are and regardless of their color, can be worn in winter. I now suggest we take a look at the cut...
Which style to choose?
Biker jackets, or those with patch pockets, are the “basic” cuts. Easy to wear and timeless, this is what I would recommend for a first investment . They go with everything, from jeans and a thin sweater to suit pants and a shirt.
With clever layering and wool pants, you're ready for the day. Special mention to the duck blue jacket, which nicely brightens up the gray palette.
Perfectos are suitable for winter, much more than summer in any case: once closed, two layers of leather are superimposed on the bust. Ideal for protecting from the wind .
A little more elegant, they have really become more popular in recent years. They go particularly well with turtlenecks, the two shapes emphasizing each other.
For now, the choice of your sweaters will be essential . Choose them warm, and don't hesitate to line them with a merino t-shirt.
The perfecto/chunky knit combination will never fail you. This is even more the case if you opt for a turtleneck.
Leather bombers are easy to wear, they are the most casual on the list. They allow for some interesting twists: matched with a high collar (which compensates for an often low neckline), flannel cargo pants and dressy shoes, you can play on contrasts for successful casual chic outfits.
Also think about scarf-type accessories, which will prove particularly useful!
Leather down jackets appeared a few years ago and have developed in all ranges, even if we feel that this type of piece is running out of steam.
The result remains interesting with a beautiful lamb lamb and, above all, very comfortable. A good sheathing / padding in feather and down would be ideal. We advise you to choose them rather thin, with “compartments” fairly close together.
A Chevignon diving model.
Once again, wearing leather in winter requires warm clothing underneath. We talked about turtlenecks, but we can also turn to thicker knits. They will provide insulation, while the jacket will take care of the windproof side . A perfect combo!
We move on to the second part of the article, dedicated to an exceptional material: shearling...
Focus on winter’s flagship leather: shearling
Shearling is to winter what linen is to summer, without the negative side of creasing of course. It is a material that is both comfortable and aesthetic.
So let's see how to choose it and how to wear it!
What is a shearling?
Who doesn't appreciate, when it's cold, getting under a warm and cozy duvet? This is the feeling you get when putting on a shearling jacket...
What’s special about this leather? It retains its fur , a considerable asset in terms of thermal insulation!
They are either lambs or sheep, the first offering softer but fairly stiff fur, while the sheep has slightly denser and curly hair.
We speak of “returned” skin because, most of the time, manufacturers choose to put the fur towards the inside.
In the sunlight, the nuances of this skin type particularly stand out. This is a Dolce & Gabbana jacket that is over ten years old.
On the outside, you will often find a velvet appearance.
That said, we are seeing more and more skins with a nappa or diving finish, so very smooth. The contrast with the texture of the wool then brings a certain character to the room.
We find the silky appearance of smooth leathers which contrasts clearly with the texture of the collars and sleeve cuffs. ( Balibaris model).
You will sometimes find coated/greased leathers on the outside. I'm not a fan of it, personally; the material takes on a cardboard appearance.
How to recognize the quality of a sherling ?
As always with leathers, touch is the best indicator there is .
The skin must be soft, with a fine and regular texture. On suedes, you can have fun “drawing” with your finger on the garment, a sign that the raw material is beautiful and that the sanding is well done.
Beautiful suede leather is full of stunning shades.
For fur, again, it's a matter of touch: soft, dense and above all not rough .
If the hair is shaved, therefore short, it should not appear rough. Also check that the layout is regular, that is to say that there are no areas less covered than others. .
Observe the density and fineness of this lamb fur. (“Rive Gauche” model from Edition MR )
On each side, the color will provide exceptional nuances that will only be found on fur. The relief created by the “length” and density of the hairs explains this unique appearance.
The nobility of this skin and the work it requires make it an expensive piece, undoubtedly the most expensive in the men's wardrobe. Better to postpone your purchase while you save, because you will inevitably be disappointed by a cheap skin . Excluding discounts, it costs around €1,000...
I've been eyeing this Officine Générale jacket for a while... But at €1,790, I'll have to wait a bit...
Inspirations: these timeless cuts for sheer skin.
First of all, it should be noted that the thickness of shearlings makes very tight cuts impossible . There is a slim fit of course, but the effect will never be the same as with another close-fitting leather.
Historically, sheep was used to make bomber jackets and bomber jackets. These short jackets, with large collars, have acquired the status of “timeless piece”. These are therefore risk-free purchases.
Schott takes a “traditional” cut by playing with a very surprising color and nappa details.
In the same vein, we find perfectos with their asymmetrical closure. The biker/adventurer side is attenuated by the downy material, but it is on these pieces that bending efforts are most often made. Enough to create a beautiful physique!
Sumptuous Golden Goose perfecto: the nappa details contrast exquisitely with the velvet appearance of the leather.
Finally, at the height of comfort, we find long coats , such as duffle coats.
These are very beautiful pieces, most often straight cut, which can sometimes give them a little old-fashioned look. No problem if you wear it with a casual outfit that's not too classic.
Designers like Balmain allow themselves much more daring cuts to enhance shearling skins. But the price is just as bold...
There is therefore a choice in terms of cuts, but I advise you to go for basic: given its price, it would be a shame to buy an “outdated” piece a few years later . In any case, the material makes the beauty of the garment at least as much as the cut.
Finally, we will look at a crucial question when it comes to leather: how to maintain it?
How to maintain your leather in winter?
The robustness of leather does not prevent it from being "vulnerable" in certain situations. Maintained leather is leather that lasts.
Situations to avoid in winter
Dipped leathers, aniline and nappa
As beautiful as they are “fragile” , aniline and diving skins do not like water.
Even if it is restrictive, you will need to make sure that the weather is good before going out.
In itself, “pure” water is not dramatic. But neither rain nor snow are really clean: as they fall, they collect a whole bunch of dust and various particles which can stain light skin, or form halos on darker ones.
Shearlings and suede leathers
Often offered in a velvet finish, sherlings don't like water much either! But I must admit that I was very surprised by the "resistance" of shearling leather.
“Classic” situation, I would say. I leave on a cold morning under a blue sky but, when I return in the evening, there is a heavy downpour. Obviously, when I get off the bus, there's a total deluge: my jacket is completely soaked, I think it's ruined. Surprise, everything ends well in the end! I will explain all this to you in the following part...
Suede leathers that are too exposed to rain end up tarnishing and becoming rough.
For shearlings with fur on the outside — this can happen — the tolerance to water and snow is higher.
The simplest thing is to avoid it, but dense fur tends to keep water “on the surface”. Simply shake the jacket to get rid of it.
Coated or pigmented leathers
To the extent that we find them particularly in the world of motorcycles, these leathers are clearly the champions in all categories of weather resistance .
Most are almost made to hold up in rain and snow, so no particular concerns. Which doesn't mean that they don't need their little moment of attention regularly!
Most motorcycle leathers are treated to resist bad weather.
Intervene in the event of an accident!
Despite all the good will in the world, an accident can happen very quickly. The important thing will be to intervene as quickly as possible.
Smooth or grained leathers
If the skin is damp/wet, dry it with a clean cloth before starting the procedure.
Before using a product, it is also advisable to apply it to an invisible part of the room to see how it reacts, just in case. Above all, do not use baby milk, choose products really intended for leather.
If the leather has taken on water but there is no stain - fortunately, this happens - a shot of milk adapted to its nature will be enough to restore its suppleness.
In case of a "dirty" stain, I advise you to apply a Renomat type cleaner, using "gentle" circular movements around the stain. I had very good results on a beige wash: no streaks, no halos, because the product evaporates quickly. Once the stain is removed and completely dry, I advise you to apply a little cream (there is a risk of discoloration in the area of a stubborn stain).
Do the same as with shoes: a soft cloth and circular movements on the stain, without pressing.
In case of greasy stain , simply apply Sommières soil without rubbing. Leave for several hours or even overnight.
This extremely fine clay absorbs fat, but you must be careful not to move the leather. A vacuum cleaner will do the trick to remove it, without placing it on the leather of course, and you avoid blowing!
Sommières soil, cheap but effective, is essential for every leather owner!
Velvet leathers
We might as well say it right away: they are not the easiest to clean...
If the leather has taken on water but there is no visible stain, let it dry well. Then, use a suede brush to restore the “peach skin” appearance and prevent the skin from remaining rough . That's how I saved my jacket which had taken a major hit.
The suede survival kit
If there is a stain, let it dry and apply a stain remover which often takes the form of an eraser. By making circular movements, it will gradually fade until it disappears .
If the color is altered, apply a colored suede restorer. It is essential to restore its shine and color to suede leather.
In case of greasy stain, same operation as for smooth leather: Sommières earth and patience!
What if none of this worked?
You may not be able to get rid of a stain on your leather. In this case, there is no point in persisting!
You will have to hand it over to a professional . And on this point, in all honesty, it is difficult to find a good one.
True leather professionals can do almost anything, including re-dyeing your leather jacket!
Consumer dry cleaners often offer leather stain removal and cleaning services but, if you have diving skins or other noble leathers, don't go there. You risk ending up with a damaged jacket.
The process they use is the cause: the pieces are washed several times in special baths , which means that a pretty nappa or aniline leather, with very little protection, will recover everything that other leathers reject. And there...
Do not hesitate to contact a tannery or an artisan shoemaker who can direct you to a good leather dyer specializing in leather.
I have an address to give you in Paris: it is the Germaine Lesèche dyeworks. The character is quite extraordinary, almost as much as his skills. It managed to remove stubborn stains on light aniline leather and even beer stains on brown leather. A very nice address!
Besides, we are waiting for your addresses throughout France : there will be quite a few fans I think!
( Belstaff model)
The final word...
To conclude, we remember that leather has its place in winter.
Wear your jackets with a turtleneck or a chunky sweater for thermal insulation, not forgetting an effective base layer . Just be careful not to take them out in the rain.
Shearling, for once, is a material that can only be worn in winter. This leather which retains its fur is of great nobility, sought after for its comfort and its ability to protect particularly well from the cold. The aesthetic aspect is not left out since many brands play on the contrast between the texture of fur and that of leather. But this type of part remains expensive...
In terms of maintenance, as is often the case with leather, there are solutions: stain removers, brushes or dyer as a last resort. Although some precautions are necessary, nothing prevents you from enjoying these sumptuous materials in the middle of January!
