Tips: How to choose a men's winter coat?

The coat is the centerpiece of our wardrobe when fall/winter arrives. A piece that we will wear every day to combat low temperatures, while maintaining impeccable style.

This therefore introduces two questions :

• You need to find a coat that is versatile enough to wear with everything.
• you have to be sure to invest in quality (it is an expensive part)

So, we offer you our guide to choosing the right winter coat . Needless to say, there is something for everyone .

This article was originally published in 2015, and was updated in November 2022 by the editorial team.

Cover photo: BonneGueule

Left: a straight navy blue coat, with a sober style (BonneGueule)

Right: a more daring white “Casentino” coat (Berg&Berg)

HOW TO RECOGNIZE A QUALITY COAT?

1. WOOL, THE CHOICE OF AESTHETES

When you want something warm and beautiful, there is nothing better than a 100% wool sheet.

In addition to having a beautiful appearance with rich shades, it is an insulating and breathable material. A wool coat keeps you warm outdoors and does not suffocate you indoors (in transport for example).

On coats you will mainly find sheep's wool or cashmere.

More rarely, you will find cashmere, alpaca wool, yak wool, llama mohair. Coats made from these precious and rare fibers are more expensive : they exceed €600, €700 and quickly reach over €1000.

To learn more about the different types of wool, you can read this article:

2. THE CASE OF SYNTHETICS

Wool is good. Unfortunately, we rarely see 100% wool on the coats that the traditional market offers, in entry and mid-range. They will present in their composition materials like polyester, polyamide or acrylic: synthetic materials.

As much as possible, we advise you against coats with synthetics.

To compromise, there are material mixes: aim for the maximum amount of wool, at least 75%.

Synthetic materials are certainly less expensive than wool , but synthetic materials have a less attractive appearance and their thermal properties are lower .

Let's be honest: a coat with too much synthetic material will keep you less warm, and will be less breathable . You risk sweating when moving from cold to warm (metro, bus, buildings) or when you walk in the street.

So, wool blend coats under €200 or €300 necessarily make concessions with:

• A fairly fine raw material (we'll talk about it in the next section), containing little or no wool
• A confection not without its defects
• Or poorly paid labor

3. THE IMPORTANCE OF THE WEIGHT OF THE MATTER

Having a 100% wool coat is already a great effort, but that's not all . The wool must be heavy enough to keep the coat warm.

A 100% wool coat that is too thin (i.e. with a low weight) will not keep you that warm when the thermometer is close to or below 0°: the weight of the material has a big impact on the level of warmth it will provide you. The price is also impacted: the thicker a material is, the more expensive it is .

To give you an idea, you can find coats with a weight ranging from single to double .

A well-insulated coat is thick and must have hold . When you put it on, you must feel this "armor against the cold" side, and feel protected.

If you buy your coat in a store, it is essential to touch the garment, feel it on your shoulders, see if the coat is thick enough or not.

On the other hand, when you buy online, it is less obvious.

Either the material weight is not given: in this case, you must rely on the photos, which may possibly give you an idea of ​​the thickness. Or you will have to ask the brand for more information.

Either the material weight is given: in this case you can refer to this reading grid:

• >400 g/m2: heavy weight
• 350-400 g/m2: medium/heavy weight
• 300-350 g/m2: medium weight
• <300 g/m2: lightweight / mid-season

/!\ Be careful not to confuse square meters and linear meters /!\

If you come across coats with wool weighing more than 550 or 600g... be careful.

There are actually two ways to express the weight of a woolen cloth: square meter and linear meter.

And the two are sometimes confused by brands, who will talk to you about square meters when they are actually linear meters.

Simply put:

• One square meter corresponds to 1m*1m
• A linear meter corresponds to a larger surface area, which is around 1m*1m50

A weight per square meter is therefore less than a weight per linear meter.

To give you an example, a weight of 520 grams per linear meter (500g/ml) corresponds to approximately 350 grams per square meter (g/m2).

To learn more about this topic, head to this article:

4. CAN WE RECOGNIZE A QUALITY WEAVING?

Some sheets are soft, others are rougher, but this is not a quality criterion . Chemical agents can be added to soften the material and, on the contrary, a sheet that is a little rough and rigid is often the result of a high density.

Often, but not always! A rough coat can also be a coat made largely of synthetic. Keep in mind that feel alone will not be a determining factor .

We advise you to proceed in this order: first look at the composition on the label, then check the density of the fabric and its visual appearance .

5. QUALITY OF ASSEMBLY AND DETAILS

The seams must be regular , with a thread that holds (no fraying).

The drape should be good and create a clean silhouette . Also make sure that the armhole breaks cleanly at the shoulder.

It is important to look carefully at the finishes:

• Are the buttons horn or plastic ?
• Are they sewn crosswise?
• Are the buttonholes properly made?

Let's tackle the thorny issue of lining . You will mainly find linings in polyester, sometimes in viscose, and more rarely in cupro.

To learn more about the composition and presence of linings in a coat, we invite you to read this article:

To remember:

• The lining is used to make it easier to put on your coat, to protect the outer material from friction and to hide the interior finishes of the garment.
• Choose linings made of artificial materials such as viscose, cupro or modal in your clothes, rather than synthetic materials such as polyester.

To understand the difference between synthetic and artificial material, read this article:

If you want to reach stylistic heights, you can't do better (and more expensive) than silk lining . One drawback of this noble material is its durability, which is lower compared to the durability of other natural materials.

Also, you hardly find any clothing with silk linings in ready-to-wear, even high-end. This point should not be a purchasing criterion.

We provide you with selection criteria, but the choice is yours! The lining of a garment is an element that counts but it is not absolutely essential . You should not eliminate a garment that you like because the composition of the lining is polyester, for example.

LET’S TALK ABOUT GOOD MATERIALS

1. SYNTHETIC AND TECHNICAL MATERIALS

If we talk about down jackets or parkas, synthetic materials provide superior resistance and other properties that natural materials such as wool or cotton do not naturally have . The most obvious example is increased water resistance.

But be careful, we are talking about technical clothing made from high added value synthetic materials such as Norwegian Rain (microfibers, Teflon treatments, nanomaterials, micro alveoli, etc. ), and not low-end clothing with polyester to reduce costs .

Technicality is one of the few cases where synthetic materials can be of real interest. For more details on this subject, I invite you to read my article on how to dress when it rains .

On parkas and down jackets, the technical fabric on the outside is not enough to keep you warm when it's cold. These are not very thick or insulating fabrics.

What makes this possible is the presence of internal padding, which can be made of wadding or feathers.

This is why we distinguish between lightweight technical clothing, without padding and suitable for mid-season, and warmer technical clothing with padding, suitable for winter. It is important to differentiate, otherwise your second skin will not have the desired effect!

You can read this article to learn more about the differences between down and synthetic filling:

2. COTTON

Raincoats such as the trench coat and the Mackintosh are usually made of cotton . A cotton that is made waterproof by adding a coating composed of rubber.

Coating consists of making the material waterproof : the small gaps between the warp and weft threads are filled with a coating that is imperceptible to the eye. This process makes the cotton water-resistant.

This is a technique that is rarely used on wool, because it is more difficult to achieve.

A cotton coat will not be very warm. It will be suitable for mid-season use. It needs to have internal padding to keep you really warm in winter.

3. LEATHERS AND WOOLEN SKINS

What could be nicer in cold weather than wrapping yourself in a good leather jacket ?

Leather, in addition to being insulating, has excellent windproof properties.

There are two types of leather jackets:

• Classic leather jackets , with a leather exterior and a classic lining inside, like any other jacket or coat.
• Sheepskin , a leather jacket where the sheep's wool has been preserved and present inside the garment , for a great supply of warmth. Sheepskin has always been recognized as the perfect material to stay warm in winter . Sheep have curly fur, while lamb offers fur of incomparable softness. This piece is noble, rare and constitutes a real investment (a good sheepskin costs more than €1000).

THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF COATS FOR MEN

1. THE PARDESSUS

For ages, the overcoat has been the reference coat in the men's wardrobe .

It is a long coat (from mid-thigh to knee), in wool, with two or three buttons and a tailored lapel.

You will find the straight, single-breasted coat:

The double-breasted overcoat is particularly elegant. It also has the advantage of keeping you warm because it does not let air in .

It is a dressy coat but which, again, does not clash with a more casual or even streetwear style. In fact, we often tend to think that this type of coat is difficult to wear without a suit underneath and shoes. This is wrong .

With fashion moving more towards casual wear these days, you'll find many overcoats that are looser, more flowing, sometimes belted, with reworked pockets, etc.

SELECTION OF MEN'S OVERCOAT BRANDS

• Pine Parma
• The Paris Exception
• Suitsupply
• From Fursac
• General Pharmacy
• A Kind of Guise

2. THE TRENCH AND THE MACKINTOSH

These are two coats considered to be rather dressy . However, they are not reserved for use with suits and can be worn very well with raw jeans, for example. Their big advantage is that they are particularly suitable for rainy weather.

If you don't know how to wear the trench coat, here is the video you need!

Made from cotton twill - a tight weave - and then coated with resin, they are specially designed to be windproof and water-repellent. On the other hand, they are not suitable for cold temperatures . Cotton does not keep you as warm as wool and their loose fit does not trap you in the cold.

They are therefore suitable either for rather mild temperatures or to wear with several other layers of clothing underneath . In any case, if you are looking for warmth at all costs, opt for a wool coat or even a down jacket or parka .

What is the difference between the trench coat and the mackintosh? The trench coat, invented by Thomas Burberry, was born after the mac. It is a double-breasted coat. Its origin is military and this can be seen in many details: the epaulettes to attach the braids, the wide lapels to protect from the rain, the small rings at the belt level used to attach ammunition, etc.

The mac is on the contrary totally minimalist. No more strap anywhere, the buttoning is not crossed but simple and finally, no lapels. It generally does not have a belt even if one is sometimes found.

These two models, originally made of coated cotton, now exist in wool versions that are particularly suitable for a winter coat.

SELECTION OF BRANDS OF TRENCH COATS AND MAC FOR MEN

• COS
• Mackintosh
• Grenfell
• NN07
• Well Made
• Private White VC
• Consistency
• Husbands

3. THE DUFFLE COAT

The duffle coat has its origins in the military world: it was invented by the British Navy. It can be recognized by its closure with "horns" and small cords, as well as its two patch pockets on the front.

The material, thick and not particularly soft, is interesting for its robustness and warmth.

Once again, be uncompromising on quality and pay attention to detail. The buttons will look better in horn, and the small cords (or leather straps) will resist better if they are tight and firmly sewn!

Finally, don't forget one thing: while variations may exist, this coat is not fitted. It is even traditionally loose to facilitate movement , and that's what makes it charming!

SELECTION OF MEN'S DUFFLE COATS BRANDS

• Inverter
• Gloverall
• Armor Lux
• Lemaire
• Allevol

4. THE PEA COAT

It owes its practical and robust side to its naval origins. Easy to close, providing good protection from the wind, the pea coat has now earned its place in an urban environment.

The basic version of the pea coat is short and rather casual: it fits perfectly into an outfit with raw jeans and a turtleneck, for example. It can also be worn in a more formal ensemble, with flannel pants and a shirt.

In terms of finishing, look for clean and neat work: it is a coat without frills, but whose lines must remain very clean, whether it is the shoulders, the sides, the sleeves or the collar.

It is found in more iconic brands (e.g. Armor Lux ) with a straight cut. In more contemporary brands (e.g. Suitsupply ), it is offered with a fitted cut.

Something to satisfy everyone!

Since buttons are often the only detail on this piece , I can only advise you to prefer burnt horn or worked metal buttons. That said, do not forget that changing them is extremely simple, cheap, and it is an interesting way to personalize your piece.

SELECTION OF MEN'S PEA COAT BRANDS

• Schott
• Fursac
• Armor Lux
• Private White VC
• Mackintosh
• Suitsupply
• Saint James

5. THE PARKA

Originally a garment for extreme cold, the parka has now become popular and is distributed everywhere .

They come in all budgets, all styles (some parkas have a wool exterior) and at very varying levels of warmth.

To get an overview of the market for this product, go to this article:

SELECTION OF MEN'S PARKA BRANDS

• Norse Projects
• A Kind of Guise
• Ceccarelli Manifattura
• Dunderdon
• Woolrich
• Scandinavian Edition
• NN07
• Norwegian Rain

6. THE DOWN JACKET

Sometimes criticized, the down jacket has managed to be accepted as a piece in its own right in the men's wardrobe.

While smooth and shiny fabrics should generally be avoided , there are a few models in nylon or polyester that are sober and, above all, ultra-light, really very comfortable and practical. On the other hand, I do not forget the more dressy versions made in wool flannel. It's up to you, knowing that the nylon versions are more "casual" and do not go as well with dressy pieces.

Importantly, the sheathing is the way in which the down jacket is "filled"; it must be very dense and form beautiful curves inside each compartment.

Finally, on the subject of details, it may be nice to have ribbed bottoms and cuffs, to avoid any cold drafts.

Regarding the filling, is it better to use synthetic or down? The match here:

SELECTION OF BRANDS OF MEN'S DOWN JACKETS

• Rocky Mountain
• Fursac
• Woolrich
• All-terrain descent